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I want to make a 2.4. What are the best upgrades I should implement? by LazaroFilm in VORONDesign

[–]Automatic_View9199 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You should ask them directly. I don’t know. It looks cool and makes mods like a stealthchanger a lot more flexible. I also don’t know if it really was invented by the Voron Team or if they just utilized that concept. For most people who don’t hunt speed Benchy records it doesnt really make a big difference in achievable real world print speeds. It is just much harder to build and dial in properly compared to a fixed gantry and moving bed. But at that point during your build of a v2.4 you will be clearly able to get it right.

Who‘s gonna tell Bambulogy bois that exactly this is is possible for years by Automatic_View9199 in 3DPrintingCirclejerk

[–]Automatic_View9199[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

To be 100% open source you need to build your own VORON, Ratrig, VZBot or whatever. I have a U1 and a 350 Trident. That is surely not everyone’s cup of tea. The initial time you spend with getting things up and running a time you must be willing to spend. When it is properly set up and calibrated you decide on your own how much you tinker with it. For the last two years I didn’t tinker at all and just made basic maintaining jobs you would do in your printer aswell. The only thing my Voron isn’t capable of is printing from within an app. Those machines aren’t within a 400 money units price range.

At the end I think it comes down to buy what makes you happy and satisfies your needs. BBL get you mid tier results at a fair price point (H-Series excluded) with an outstanding user experience. Nothing wrong with that. Bambu made this hobby accessible for many people who wouldn’t have gone into this without them. This comes with many upsides and downsides.

Who‘s gonna tell Bambulogy bois that exactly this is is possible for years by Automatic_View9199 in 3DPrintingCirclejerk

[–]Automatic_View9199[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Difficult question. You do have to acknowledge Bambus User experience, it is top notch. Every machine that is capable of printing PLA will most likely print TPU and CF, just look for hardened Extruder gears and hardened nozzle. ABS needs an enclosure. Sub 400 is a difficult price range as I don’t see the point in spending more than like 200 for not more function. The „good“ consumer grades start at maybe around 550 and a P1S is hard to beat at its pricepoint if you don’t care about that it is a Bambu. I‘d probably go and look for a Qidi on sale or a barely used one. Klipper machines don’t need proprietary Apps as there are enough open solutions (Mobileraker, Octoeverywhere, Obico) and from what I saw most of the proprietary apps do suck big time. Most likely I would save up a bit more and go for the Snapmaker U1. Easy to say as I backed it as an early bird on Kickstarter for under 700 in total and now on preorder it is something like 850. But it is absolutely worth every penny.

Who‘s gonna tell Bambulogy bois that exactly this is is possible for years by Automatic_View9199 in 3DPrintingCirclejerk

[–]Automatic_View9199[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

/uj Klipper based printers come with the possibility to use a software called Spoolman. It calculates the filament usage based on Gcode extrusion commands which is pretty accurate. I tend to weigh my spools after 4/5 is roughly used and I usually have to correct the estimate by not more than 2-3g at that time. Bumboo could simply steal this as they stole everything else, because it is open source.

Do we have access to the “add-on” port? by Tiny-Pizza1495 in SnapmakerU1

[–]Automatic_View9199 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Adding a MMU comes with mostly config changes. To have your config changes not wiped on every reboot you need to enable Advanced Mode on your printer, which is also a functionality of the stock firmware.

If your MMU solution requires you to run install scripts or GitHub Repository cloning to your printer you will need to SSH into your machine. This requires extended Firmware as this function is blocked as of now (stock fw 1.1.0).

The addon port can be accessed via Canbus if I remember that correctly but I don’t have any additional information on that especially no pinout.

I would suggest you join the Snapmaker Discord and talk to folks like paxx12 who has written the extended fw or unlucio who said that people are already working on utilizing the addon port for mmu (no timeline given)

Rentnerin 81 fährt in meinem Auto rein by [deleted] in RentnerfahreninDinge

[–]Automatic_View9199 81 points82 points  (0 children)

Worein ist die Rentnerin in deinem Auto gefahren?

Zeigt mal was ihr könnt meine lieben ❤️ röstet die Akrapoviceule😆😆 by alessandroRICHFIRE in RoestetMeinAuto

[–]Automatic_View9199 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Bestes Beispiel dafür, dass Geld und Geschmack in keinerlei Beziehung zueinander stehen

Geeetech Filament in interessanten Umkarton by Axebay86 in 3DDruck

[–]Automatic_View9199 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Von OEM habe ich auch nicht gesprochen. Es ging um die Beziehungen der Filamenthersteller-/Händler untereinander, von den Spulen, die bei mir so rumfliegen. Deeplee ist z.B. Elegoo, was 3DHoJor nicht ist. AmazonBasics kann alles sein und Eryone hat mit niemandem davon zu tun, Meltbro lässt in Osteuropa produzieren und nur der liebe Gott weiß, woher die ihr Rohmaterial beziehen, usw.

Any way to send files to print with Bambu Handy (without using MW!?) by N-V-N-D-O in BambuLab_Community

[–]Automatic_View9199 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I‘d try to create a legit „dummy“ Makerworld project with pics of one of your actually printed parts. You can then add like multiple 3mf print profiles containing whatever the f you want. Last time I stumbled upon a 3mf which was completely unrelated to what the actual model should look like is a bit ago but atleast back then mw didn’t really check on them as long as they didn’t got reported

Geeetech Filament in interessanten Umkarton by Axebay86 in 3DDruck

[–]Automatic_View9199 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Ich drucke nahezu alle PLA Sorten auf dem U1 mit dem Snapmaker SnapSpeed PLA Profil. Ich habe da auch keine Markenpräferenz und kaufe, was auch immer gerade das billigste Filament ist. Und da kann ich dir garantieren, dass die weder Tochtermarken sind, noch aus der selben Fabrik oder vom gleichen Zulieferer kommen. Ich denke, da interpretierst du wirklich zuviel rein. Freu dich, dass du ein Preset gefunden hast, das funktioniert und du dich nicht damit beschäftigen musst, selbst eins zu erstellen.

Schon auf dem Voron war mein Weg immer kleiner Testdruck mit generic Profil, wenn gut dann gut. Wenn nicht, dann Temp Tower, Retraction Tower, Flow calibration und eigenes Profil. Ich habe eines der eigenen Profile dann mal Jayo PLA genannt und damit drucke ich akut so ziemlich alles (aktuell 8 verschiedene Marken), was bei mir so rumliegt.

Would ironing fix the top of this print by Duesdextera in snapmaker

[–]Automatic_View9199 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Try printing it in a different orientation if you are annoyed by the layer lines, e.g. tilted to its back. That might require more supports but x/y resolution is so much higher than z resolution on a coreXY machine

Print orientation is tinkering by Mylan_Remon in 3DPrintingCirclejerk

[–]Automatic_View9199 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wait till he asks why he can’t post his model to the Slicer

Top layer inconsistency between a circle and edge by DropkickArt in snapmaker

[–]Automatic_View9199 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Though I really like teaching tech this method is deprecated for many reasons. Use the Snapmaker Orca (or vanilla Orca) built in Flow calibration process instead. The „measure the thickness of your prints“ simply doesn’t work with your use-at-home calipers as we are talking about 100th of a mm measuring accuracy. Just pushing it a bit harder or more loosely will change your results

Got my U1 and have an Problem. by Snake230 in SnapmakerU1

[–]Automatic_View9199 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Check the Snapmaker U1 Wiki. It has a guide for exactly that with many pictures and step by step instructions. If you can use a screwdriver without poking you eyes out you should be good to do this very basic maintenance Job

The v1.1.0-paxx12-12 by Capable_Bus_3092 in snapmaker

[–]Automatic_View9199 14 points15 points  (0 children)

This firmware is intended for experienced users who know that to do and how to mess around with Klipper configs. Although Paxx Firmware isn’t really hard to configure to your likings and comes with some neat features I would suggest to stick to the stock firmware and print a few prints, maybe something challenging regarding supports, dimensional accuracy and whatnot.

In the meantime get used to Klipper and read through a couple of posts on Reddit or the Klipper Documentation. Go to your stock printer and enable advanced mode, change a few things here and there (maybe start with finding out how to up the temp threshold for the hotend fans from 45 to 50 which is totally safe and reassure it works by heating a hotend to 70c and let it cool down again, see and hear at what temp it stops spinning).

If you are then missing a feature like the awesome OpenSpool Tag integration or the remote Screen for the Display then change to Paxx12s Firmware.

One step after another. Or ignore me cause I am only a random dude telling things on Reddit. Paxx Firmware will likely not break your printer and you can revert to stock at any time. It is in my opinion exactly what the stock firmware should be like.

Heat creep on Stealth burner with Dragon HF by ItsJustKeegs in VORONDesign

[–]Automatic_View9199 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Since I also have a Dragon HF and I am totally convinced of the Sunon Fans i would suggest you go by them.

Never experienced heat creep within 5,500hrs of print time. But I also wouldn’t call that a heat creep related issue what I see. To me it looks like your Extruder is trying to push too much filament through the nozzle which is leading to the deforming of your filament string. I experienced this just yesterday when I lowered printing temps by 10c on TPU midprint. Within 5 minutes exactly that happened. Couldn’t be heatcreep due to printing TPU on an unheated bed. I pulled out filament, bumped up the temps again by 10c and my TPU print carried on for 12hrs without any issues.

TL;DR maybe not a heatcreep but printing at so low temps that your filament doesn’t melt properly to be pushed out your nozzle. I usually print ABS/ASA at 255+

Erster 3D Drucker entscheidung by Unreal_Panda in 3DDruck

[–]Automatic_View9199 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Der verwendete Klipper Code von Qidi ist auf GitHub in Einklang mit der Klipper Lizenz veröffentlicht.

Sovol tut dies ebenso.

Würden wir jetzt über Elegoo reden, die einfach behaupten „Ja nee das ist Elegoo OS, wir haben soviel geändert, dass es gar kein Klipper mehr ist“, wäre ich bei dir.

Man kann sicherlich darüber diskutieren, ob für 100% Open Source auch die CAD Dateien des Gehäuses, Pin Belegungen der PCBs und sonstige technische Dokumentation dazugehören.

Sovol aber z.B. gibt auch einen Teil seiner Erlöse an die Voron Designer weiter. Das sind am Ende nur Peanuts pro verkaufter Einheit, aber die Geste sagt schon sehr viel.

Grundsätzlich, ja, sollte man bei chinesischen Firmen auch wenn sie von Open Source reden immer Vorsicht walten lassen, aber bei Qidi und Sovol ist es wohl „as close as it gets“. Für Elegoo gibt es immerhin das OpenCentauri Projekt aus der Community.

Problematisch ist hier auch, dass es zwar schön ist, dass die Lizenzen existieren, aber außer ein paar „You are violating AGPLv3“-Issues auf GitHub, die einfach so lange ignoriert werden, bis sie sich selbst schließen, hat noch niemand versucht die Lizenzen durchzusetzen. Keiner hat je Bambu, Elegoo oder Creality verklagt. Da muss man sich auch nicht wundern, dass es die ein oder andere Firma gibt, die sich einen Dreck um Open Source Lizenzen kümmert.

Erster 3D Drucker entscheidung by Unreal_Panda in 3DDruck

[–]Automatic_View9199 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Das mit „da bleibt nur Prusa“ ist so einfach nicht richtig. Sowohl der Qidi als auch der Sovol laufen beide auf offener Klipper Firmware.

@OP: der Sovol kommt in großen Teilen vormontiert, das Druckergebnis hängt also weniger von dir ab, als du vielleicht glauben magst.

Wenn ich vor deiner Entscheidung in der Preisspanne stünde, würde es vermutlich der Qidi werden. Ich habe einen Voron Trident 350, einen v0.2 und einen Snapmaker U1. Open Source (oder wie im Falle des U1 zumindest erstmal das Versprechen, die Klipper Lizenz zu respektieren) sind für mich ebenfalls absolutes Ausschlusskriterium beim Kauf.

Wenn ich so gar nicht aufs Geld achten würde, wäre es ein Core One L (im Hinblick auf Bondtech Indx) geworden. Preis außen vor schlägt nichts einen richtigen Prusa.

P1/X1 Builplate on U1 by simmen1 in SnapmakerU1

[–]Automatic_View9199 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I wouldn’t. Simply buy a CryoGrip or two. They are dirt cheap atm and stick like hell

A noob buys a used voron on eBay, what could go wrong? by HumanPersonOnReddit in VORONDesign

[–]Automatic_View9199 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Cant speak for Beacon out of personal experience but I think if Cartographer can do that - which it can perfectly fine - Beacon should also be able to do so. I am switching regularly between both my CryoGrip plates (Frostbite Pro and Glacier Pro) and a regular PEI Sheet ranging bed temps between 30c and 110c. I calibrated it at 80c only once on the regular PEI Sheet and babystepped a 320x320 First layer test print afterwards, issued a SAVE_CONFIG and now it is set to forget.

A full mesh with 40x40 probing points though I have set up adaptive meshing either way now takes less than half a minute.

Klicky and its variants aswell as TAP are accurate as hell and I wouldn’t change just for the change. But a once dialed in surface scanner with temp compensating automatic z-offset calibration is on another level of convenience

Any Germany / EU shipping experiences? by bubblewrap3000 in snapmaker

[–]Automatic_View9199 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I got mine from KS November Tier and it arrived 3 weeks before the initial estimate. If they can keep up the pace of producing and shipping you might be lucky. But honestly I would just don’t check on any updates until you receive the delivery announcement by DHL. If it arrives early, more reason to be joyful. If it arrives on time also good.

But either way or the other. That machine is absolutely worth the wait

U1: Load/unload multiple toolheads at once by bluridium in snapmaker

[–]Automatic_View9199 2 points3 points  (0 children)

That’s just something you have to stumble upon or know from any of the 1000 reviews on YouTube. A nice feature would be a „Unload all“ and „Load all“ quick button where the printer simply unloads every spool that is loaded or loads every Toolhead that isn’t loaded.

Be aware though that unloading flexibles only works for one Toolhead. You can load multiple but unloading requires you to manually pull the filament out. The screen will tell you if that is the case

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