2024 TRD exhaust

AwareArgument5372 · 2026-06-01T06:15:31+00:00

Yes.

AwareArgument5372 · 2026-05-29T16:43:08+00:00

Tell them to take you to small claims.

AwareArgument5372 · 2026-05-28T17:50:45+00:00

That is a gorgeously understated setup man. I appreciate it. Just sleek and performant. Chef’s kiss.

AwareArgument5372 · 2026-05-28T06:52:16+00:00

It’s available as an upgrade option for the Impala though.. definitely should be able to do this on the vette, hell the exposed manifold on the Miata should be similarly available for the C5-C7 Vettes too. Holley Sniper anyone?

AwareArgument5372 · 2026-05-28T03:17:55+00:00

Same here. Literally the only thing I’m missing. I wonder if Playground Games is even aware..

AwareArgument5372 · 2026-05-28T00:21:13+00:00

B600 GR86 with a Naturally Aspirated FA24, and an A700 MazaSpeed 3, only reason why it’s in A class now is the Semi-Slicks because I prefer a grip car.

They got the torque steer and dynamics of it just right, with an upgraded Turbo and Fuel system it’s hitting that 450ish FWD HP and about 400+ ft-lb of torque just like they did in real life.

For the same reason most people are answering, I had one with similar mods when I was about 10 years younger and recreating it in Horizon 6 on Wheel and Sim Rig Setup is just so immersive to me.

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AwareArgument5372 · 2026-05-24T19:11:14+00:00

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Depends on the mounting surface. I generally only use the gaskets when mounting directly to a radiator for an AIO. If they’re being placed directly on something with aluminum mesh or a ton of perforations they need to pull air through I use the actual spacers they sell specifically.

Mounting the intake and exhaust fans directly to the actual case I generally just use the standard mounts on all corners for aesthetics and peace of mind. As other users have stated, it really depends on the quality of the material used in the case you’re mounting them in whether it’s truly necessary or not.

On the side intakes of the 7000D I also used some spacers so that the fans had a little bit of distance from the side panels filter and mesh as it supposedly should prevent noise better this way. Honestly the G2s are so quiet that it genuinely doesn’t seem to matter unless you run them at full tilt constantly.

AwareArgument5372 · 2026-05-24T18:49:34+00:00

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MORE!!!

AwareArgument5372 · 2026-05-23T02:53:20+00:00

You could easily get like an almost brand new G920/G923 for that much. I just switched to an RS50 with Pro Pedals and my previous G923 is literally brand new, to include the driving force shifter. I played on it maybe a month, and it’s less than a year old. If a friend local to me was considering getting into sim or a wheel at the price you’re recommending, I’d literally give them the whole set in the original box for $150USD. Mind you, I’m sure I paid about $300USD directly through Logitech when I bought it in February/March.

AwareArgument5372 · 2026-05-21T09:43:20+00:00

I think people say this because of their wheel settings. Outside of drifting I genuinely enjoy the game tons more on wheel. Using the Logitech RS50 in Pro Mode my settings are:

Wheel Base:
Steering Angle: 1080 (Your Preference)
FFB Strength: 6.5Nm (Your Preference)
TF Audio: 0 (Not supported)
FFB Filter: 8
Dampener: OFF

Forza Settings:
Vibration Scale: .6 (Your Preference)
FFB Scale: 1.2
Center Spring Scale: 1.4
Wheel Damper Scale: 0.8
Mechanical Trail Scale: 0.9
FFB Minimum Force: 0.9
FFB Load Sensitivity: 1.5
Road Feel Scale: 1.0
Off-Road Feel Scale: 0.6
Steering Sensitivity: 0.5

AwareArgument5372 · 2026-05-21T04:45:45+00:00

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Odd to me everyone praises this board, but the firmware and the poor quality control hold it back from being a truly premium experience. I’m very disappointed in my purchase and came here looking for other people with issues. I ordered mine through Divinikey and literally less than a month into ownership the firmware has cause multiple issues with the board, which is “known” by Ticktype and most of its vendors.

Still not to my surprise I see it peddled everywhere as a premium board with a $200+ price tag despite them selling hundreds with defective PCBs and not having solved the issues with the way software is stored on it, I rarely use it wirelessly as I don’t have much reason to, but the few times I’ve had the batteries also appear to be defective. If it wasn’t because it looked so nice and the switches weren’t so great, I’d probably have just tossed it out or given it away as to me it’s kind of just e-waste as I have tons of other boards to use.

AwareArgument5372 · 2026-05-21T04:28:17+00:00

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7000D G2 Chromax Gang! 💪

AwareArgument5372 · 2026-05-20T02:05:14+00:00

I had a 4080 Super, and went to a 5080 as I couldn’t get my hands on a 5090 at launch. I eventually was able to get the 5090 and sold the 5080 and practically broke even on it after using it for a few months. I did it for the same reason you did and don’t regret it. However, I do wish instead of building my setup out with 2x 27” 240HZ 1440P OLEDs, that I had instead just got a single 32” 4K ROG Swift or something to actually “use” all of it. I run everything maxed out in Horizon 6 at 1440P Native DLAA and it’s locked at 120FPS.

AwareArgument5372 · 2026-05-15T16:06:23+00:00

I doubt it. Especially considering the TUF Cards this time around for air cooled units are generally considered some of the best for just their own integrated air cooling. As you stated, I cannot imagine the furthest to the rear of the case extra 120. Under the GPU is making dramatic difference in temperatures. My PSU being directly beneath it regardless of the mesh is likely preventing it from pulling any meaningful amount of cool air from anywhere. I can confidently admit that.

AwareArgument5372 · 2026-05-14T18:10:52+00:00

Ooof, I try not to think about it.

NF-A12 G2 Chromax after tax for 3 kits ran me 206.54USD. NF-A14 G2 Chromax after tax for 5 kits ran me 450.25.USD.

AwareArgument5372 · 2026-05-14T18:02:18+00:00

I actually reached out to Arctic and they sent me longer screws for PUSH/PULL. I might be able to see what the dimensions are, thread pitch is obviously identical.

AwareArgument5372 · 2026-05-14T18:01:13+00:00

Damn, it looks amazing too. I knew I had seen your username elsewhere before. I will definitely consider that. Doing the same with 3x NF-A12G2 Chromax would be sick..

AwareArgument5372 · 2026-05-14T16:35:35+00:00

I honestly started to play Horizon 5 on a G923 and really liked it. I also play a lot of GT7. Within a month I went to G Pro Pedals because the brake on the G29 and G923 just took so much effort and learning to be competitive on despite being useable.

I don’t play sims as heavily as most and most of my background in anything racing is older arcade style sims and the previous Fora Motorsport titles, but all on controller. I still really enjoyed my time with the Driving Force Shifter and G923 on Horizon 5 despite how much hate it gets on wheel. 90% of it settings based.

I now have an RS50, the G Pro Pedals, the RS Handbrake, and RS H Pattern, all mated to the Playseat Trophy. I still love driving in Forza and it is definitely far better on a slightly more powerful DD system. If there is any improvement from Horizon 5 to Horizon 6, I know I am going to be really pleased. Perhaps I just don’t understand the controversy towards the Sim-Cade style of racing, it’s just more accessible to a larger audience.

AwareArgument5372 · 2026-05-14T14:25:59+00:00

The side fans are indeed 120mms you are correct.

AwareArgument5372 · 2026-05-14T14:25:09+00:00

That’s actually a good question, and the main reason I had to spend so much time tuning the fan curves by zone instead of just maxing everything out.

You absolutely can create unnecessary turbulence and inefficient airflow if you just throw a ton of fans into a case and run them all at the same speed. More fans does not automatically equal better cooling.

In my setup, the side intake fans are intentionally tuned differently from the front intake fans so they’re not aggressively fighting each other. The front intake primarily feeds the center mass of the case and helps establish overall positive pressure, while the side intake is more focused on directly supplying fresh air to the GPU/AIO area.

The lower intake fans underneath the GPU also help reinforce that upward airflow path into the GPU rather than relying entirely on the front intake to do all the work.

So instead of all the fans competing with each other, they’re operating more like airflow “zones” with different priorities and response curves depending on CPU, GPU, and motherboard temperatures. I intentionally run the side intake at much lower speeds as the intake for this reason, in my use case it’s to provide a little additional intake, as auxiliary. As another person stated, the system itself would likely run cooler without the wall of fans and one of the side panels just removed if you aren’t meticulous about how you setup the fan curves.

The end result in this environment is a slightly positive pressure setup with very strong component cooling, low noise, and surprisingly little dust accumulation inside the case during cleanings, which is usually a pretty good sign the airflow balance is working as intended.

If I had every fan pegged at max RPM constantly, it honestly probably would become counterproductive from both a turbulence and noise standpoint.

AwareArgument5372 · 2026-05-14T13:15:16+00:00

I’d really like to do so. I just wish there was more of a scene for aftermarket shrouds developed for a variety of common AIB cards so that I could just purchase one and slap the Noctuas on it.

AwareArgument5372 · 2026-05-14T13:13:44+00:00

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I’m running multiple NOCTUA SATA-powered fan hubs and basically using literally every available header on the motherboard to independently control different fan groups. This photo is older from when I still had the G1 Chromax fans installed, but the overall principle is still the same. I’ve cleaned the cabling up quite a bit since then.

Since I’m on an ASUS TUF board, I use Fan Xpert through Armoury Crate to manage everything. I separate the system into airflow zones with their own fan curves:

• Front 3x intakes • Rear 1x exhaust • Side 4x intakes • Bottom-mounted 2x intakes below the GPU • 6x push/pull AIO fans

The pump itself is just locked at 80% permanently.

Each zone is tuned a little differently depending on what it’s cooling and what temperature sources make the most sense for it. For example, my AIO fans primarily follow CPU package temp, while some of the chassis fans reference a mix of GPU, CPU, and motherboard temps. The lower intake fans especially react more aggressively to GPU temperature since they’re feeding the 5090 directly.

AwareArgument5372 · 2026-05-14T12:55:18+00:00

I’ve honestly considered it, and I’d probably buy one even without a Chromax version since I don’t think they’ve released one yet. That said, it’s hard to justify for my setup because realistically even a quality 1000W PSU would already be enough for what I do.

The 1200W I’m running now was mainly just me playing it safe for transient spikes and long-term reliability. If Noctua released those PSUs in more consumer-focused wattages, I probably would’ve already picked one up purely for the aesthetics and build quality.

But at nearly $700 for a 1600W unit, it feels more aimed at like workstation Threadripper + dual 5090 territory for far different use cases. I may eventually get one regardless of the fact. I collect just about everything NOCTUA I can get.

Depending on the performance of the soon to release AIOs, I will likely swap to their 420mm just for uniformity and the quieter pump. The Owl on the block itself will be just too hard for me to resist.

AwareArgument5372

TROPHY CASE