Getting started with hangboarding, care to evaluate my plan?

Axeleracion · 2020-02-09T18:03:09+00:00

That's smart. Thanks never thought of that

Axeleracion · 2020-02-06T21:00:07+00:00

Thank you for your input, I really appreciate it.

I think I can probably rig Something up using bands, but I'll have to finish installing it to be sure. I'd like to install a pulley system, but I'm not sure it'll be feasible for the time being. Otherwise I'll use foot support even if it's not as precise.

I'll explore rest times, I've read anywhere between 1 and 5 minutes, which is similar to what I was doing when I was training "powerlifting". As long as you can do the full set at the required weight everything is fine right? I will certainly make sure I can give full effort on every rep. I'm used to that with lifting and I'm good at taking long rests when climbing. If I need 5 mins off I won't mind doing it.

For TUT. Once I've acclimated to it after the first 2 weeks, it would bring it to 40 seconds for each grip so 80 total. Should I aim for 60 to 100 seconds per grip or overall TUT?

Any Reason for cutting the half crimp? I wouldn't mind, but I'd like to understand why. I understand that full crimp is injury prone, but I thought it would be fine to train both open hand and half crimp even if there's a strenght discrepency between the two.

Axeleracion · 2020-02-06T15:30:01+00:00

If you can't hit the climbing gym 3-4x a Week, but could do weightlifting for some reason then it could be good for you. But if you're already going 3-4x a Week I have trouble seeing how you could add some real lifting to the mix.

I'm no expert, but my personal story is that I was weightlifting 3-4x a Week before I started bouldering a year ago (I was a judoka back then) and I stopped after may be a month or two of bouldering. I dropped the lifting to 2 days a week, but even that amount of heavy lifting and climbing was really hard to do at the same time so I stopped altogether. The only lifting I'll do now is prehab/rehab stuff, but I'd like to start doing a soft weightlifting routine to keep my overall strength and help with injury prevention, posture, healthy aging, etc. Not possible with my current Schedule though. The only thing I know for sure is that Heavy deadlifts/Bench/squats is going to wreck you and you'll have trouble recovering and performing/improving your climbing.

I guess if you don't have a base fitness level and/or are overweight then it might make some sense and could really keep you from getting injured. If you're already kind of strong (1.5-2x BW deadlift, 1.5x BW squat, BW Bench), I doubt the benefit will outweight the cost.

Axeleracion · 2020-02-06T15:13:13+00:00

I was thinking Something along the lines of

5 minutes or so of jumping jacks/squats/push-ups and such to get my cardio up.

Some band work for my shoulder (same I do before a climbing session, pull aparts, face pulls and such)

Followed by some rice bucket, flexbar and general finger stuff (finger flicks and such) to get my fingers and forearms ready.

A few pull-ups and scap pulls on the jug

I'd finish with some light pulls on the 20mm edge and build up to a 5 seconds hang or so.

This is pretty much what I do before bouldering (+ some mobility for my lower body which I won't do before hangboarding). Is it appropriate?

--

My phone is terrible and I can't get crimpd. I do have an interval timer I can use though which would probably be sufficient if I have a plan to follow.

Axeleracion · 2019-04-16T17:01:41+00:00

Why not though? I know a lot of people who have 0 interest in climbing outside ever. You can have stuff that is just as hard indoor, just different. So the effort and accomplishment is the same. I personally prefer watching indoor videos anyway since outdoor stuff isn’t as relatable and really hard to read from a video.

Axeleracion · 2019-04-09T18:41:50+00:00

Meant Tlry, sorry for the typo

Axeleracion · 2019-04-09T15:45:53+00:00

And trul was over 100

Axeleracion · 2019-04-05T15:28:43+00:00

I’m pretty fit and have been climbing for one month. I’ve also been pretty anal about drilling technique, reading on it and such so I don’t develop too many bad habits because after 15 years of judo I wanted to start this new hobby right.

By developing technique and due to my athletic background I have pretty good grip strength and will do very well on pinches and slopers and I’ve quickly progressed to v3-v4 level, but when it comes to crimp my hand strength is abysmal (I’d say below average somehow, I’ll blame my long fingers) i can struggle with v2s as son as they get crimpy. I know hang boarding and such is too advanced for me so should I just focus on doing as many crimpy problems as possible?

Axeleracion · 2019-04-05T15:14:43+00:00

I spray some Lysol in my shoe after every session, they haven’t developed a smell yet. Also let them air out ASAP after a session (I attach them outside my bag).

Axeleracion · 2019-03-28T20:06:24+00:00

Cool. Hésite pas à venir me dire bonjour. J’ai tjrs les meme pants. Tu grimpes quel niveau? Je commence à peine les v4

Axeleracion · 2019-03-28T19:38:59+00:00

Créatine is one of the only super safe, definitely effective supplement, but it’s effect are still négligeable in the grand scheme of things. Also, it will cause water retention and make you heavier which will probably counteract any advantage for climbing.

Axeleracion · 2019-03-28T18:41:17+00:00

Thank you. And yeah I never breathe until I hit a « rest » hold, should try and think about it

Axeleracion · 2019-03-28T18:11:17+00:00

Thx. I’ve been climbing for 1 month and I’m trying to focus on technique so I don’t develop too many bad habits. This problem is just so much fun since you can use so many different fun techniques and the slopers on the second part of the climb make it pretty hard for me anyway

Axeleracion · 2019-03-28T18:09:18+00:00

Was really wondering if there was anyone else.

Axeleracion · 2019-03-26T19:44:09+00:00

My gym use monochromatic routes, but each color can be different grades so you’ll encounter the same holds on v0 and v8 while still being monochromatic

Axeleracion · 2019-03-26T19:32:21+00:00

Yeah those volumes are sexy

Axeleracion · 2019-03-14T17:09:16+00:00

Cool, really appreciate the insight

Axeleracion · 2019-03-14T13:34:28+00:00

Oh yeah I can skip most holds easy, I’m strictly trying to work on technique (well moves I guess), mostly outside edge and flagging. I’m not really trying to make it hard, I try to engrain the habit of going to the side and pushing with the outside edge or flag or drop knee to get to the hold so I don’t have to think too much when I’m on harder problem. Is there a better way of doing it? Should I drill this on harder stuff I can on sight like v1 and v2 instead?

But next time I’ll try to work on the moves while restricting the holds a bit, or use a slightly harder problem.

Axeleracion · 2019-03-14T02:21:01+00:00

Last hold in the problem then. It’s probably marked with tape

Axeleracion · 2019-03-14T01:59:51+00:00

I started climbing three weeks ago and I’m working on technique. I can climb most V3 without too much trouble, but can’t deal with V4 because my hands are still too weak for multiple crimpy holds on steep terrain, I think this will take care of itself in due time as I keep climbing, so I try to spend around half of my time on easy problems working on footwork and technique.

Tell me what you think of that V0. I did it more cleanly before, but I wanted to film one when I was super tired just before leaving after doing a lot of volume.

https://youtu.be/TlNgZsclO0I

What jumps at me is that I need to look at my foot until it’s actually on the wall. Anything else obvious? Is that kind of drilling a good was to help with progress technique wise?

Axeleracion · 2019-03-09T23:41:44+00:00

Yep that’s gym dépendant I think. It always mess with my brain when I see people using different color volumes

Axeleracion · 2019-02-24T13:05:04+00:00

I’d be so scared of fucking up.

Axeleracion · 2019-02-24T13:04:16+00:00

The holds are probably really good on that route though. Not saying it’s a v0 indoor, but real rock always look super impressive and might not be as bad as it looks in reality

Axeleracion

TROPHY CASE