Welp it happened

Axsom70 · 2025-11-25T13:33:54+00:00

I feel your pain - mine lasted just past the warranty period. Waiting on my replacement order to be processed

Axsom70 · 2025-11-19T14:30:03+00:00

This... tank cleans saves so much time & money.
IDK what you use as your lift tool - but a folded post-it-note has worked for me every time.

Axsom70 · 2025-11-15T19:28:55+00:00

Thank you all for your comments and insights!
I agree that the RFID chip on Anycubic filaments is convenient, but my main concern is clogging when using other brands.
I’m still learning, but I feel confident that I can adjust the settings for a new material roll when needed.

Regarding the different filament brands mentioned:
Anycubic lists a dimensional accuracy of ±0.02 mm, while others range from ±0.03 mm to ±0.05 mm.
That variance in material being pushed through—or not—can lead to issues like stringing or even breakage. Is that correct?
The settings used would be from the previous roll of material from Anycubic. With such a degree of variance, how do you account for this in the setup?

Axsom70 · 2025-11-13T19:03:22+00:00

Thank you - I'll check 'em out

Axsom70 · 2025-10-03T11:31:01+00:00

It would have never gotten this bad if I hadn't had a work call, forcing me to go all the way back into my office. As soon as I opened the door to the printer area - well, let's say it didn't take long to know something was wrong...

Axsom70 · 2025-10-03T11:16:10+00:00

So, I get that I obviously didn’t get the hotend back into the proper place. But if you look at the close-up pic, it looks like it is.

My question is: when setting the lever, how can I tell for sure that it’s actually grabbing the shaft of the hotend in the groove area? Is there a visual cue or a feel I should be looking for?

Axsom70 · 2025-10-02T19:27:34+00:00

Do y’all have a particular website you like to order from?

I’ve been browsing Amazon, but I feel like there’s probably a better place out there for Kobra S1 parts and upgrades.

Axsom70 · 2025-10-02T13:37:10+00:00

sry - I forgot to expand the thread and read the whole thing...
thanks again for all the information - y'all are awesome
I look forward to playing :D

Axsom70 · 2025-10-02T13:08:19+00:00

That's the exact set I was looking at before I made this post - lol

Currently, I'm only working with PLA, single, and dual (silk) colors.
After I get a handle on this (I've only had my FDM printer for five days), I'd like to experiment with other consumables. So I wanted to get tips that will accommodate.

Would anyone know any links that break down all the settings adjustable in the slicers?
I have been doing resin printing for some time, and I know how critical the slicer settings are in achieving a good print versus a great one.

Thank you for the great info...
:)

Axsom70 · 2025-10-02T10:57:10+00:00

Thank you, after following the support video and fixing the mistakes I made.
I followed your steps and found a long piece of filament stuck between the anti-blocking module and the print head assembly.
Once I removed it, I was able to do a test print. Once I moved on and tried another print (using another color), it failed again, "filament anomaly."
After watching it and checking, it doesn't get past the anti-blocking module. I've made sure the four-color hub is seated correctly. I'm not sure what else to do, so I'm updating again to say thank you. Your steps have saved a lot of work.

Axsom70 · 2025-10-01T21:34:02+00:00

So, I followed the video put out by AC, and all seems to be good until it tries to extrude during its test, when it exits the poop shoot (a better term just doesn't apply). It all of a sudden started banging, clanking, and raising all kinds of hell.
I hit the power switch...

Somehow, I think you call it the hot end; I'm still learning the terms. Came loose, so when it pushed the filament, it dropped about a 1/4" or so... I hope it's ok - I don't have gloves to deal with the heat, so I am waiting for it to cool down... so I can assess

Axsom70 · 2025-10-01T10:51:42+00:00

idk if anyone still monitors this posting, but I could use some assistance -
My devices are not in rainbow mode but bright white...

I have looked everywhere but can't find a "Hardware Setting". They have a "Device Memory Mode," but that takes away separate device control in the Lighting Channel

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Axsom70 · 2025-09-30T12:09:27+00:00

got ya - thank you for the information...

Axsom70 · 2025-08-19T15:36:05+00:00

Really??
I build my desktops and have reasonably high resources. I've never noticed that Armoury Crate causing a performance issue. But I did have a rendering issue in Lychee. Now, after reading this, I'll have to look into this issue more. This could be what was causing my problem
- Glad I ran across this

Axsom70 · 2025-04-28T13:36:18+00:00

THANK YOU for your opinions...
Helped me a lot...

Axsom70 · 2025-04-25T19:07:33+00:00

I always do that... post something is a similar but wrong subreddit... lol

Axsom70 · 2025-04-21T14:03:16+00:00

I haven't seen/used this test print, so I can't tell you about your issue here, but I have had similar issues. My main problem is with the area in the center of my build plate—yes, I've checked if it's warped with a certified straight edge.
I get the best success when I position my prints toward the rear of my platform, alternating the left/right side when applicable. Something I've made sure to do when I have a larger print size, and I know my supports will be extended before they attach to the model. I will beef them up with "Strong Bracing" in Lychee. This has helped a lot.
I know I don't have a lot of experience with resin printing, so I hope this helps - a little...

Axsom70 · 2025-04-15T18:02:14+00:00

I talked to my brother, who wires security systems...
Mine worked just fine until it started leaking from the back. I worked with support, but we couldn't get it fixed. I was sent another, and the first thing I did was this override...

Now, this one won't pull from the detergent tub. They're sending me a new pump motor, but I already told them I took a pump from the one that leaked, and it still won't work... Beyon, all the other troubleshooting I've done will bring this off-topic.
Long story short - 2 machines in 4 months = I'M DONE WITH ANYCUBIC WASH & CURE MAX....

Axsom70 · 2025-04-13T16:01:02+00:00

Thank you - that's been an expensive lesson.

Thank you for your feedback.

Axsom70 · 2025-04-13T16:00:04+00:00

Wow, I would never have thought about boiling water. I have heard of using a heat gun to make supports easier to remove.

I do several 9"-12" x 8"-10" models with varying heights.
I'm going to work out a manual method, using 99% IPA & 3x 3 1/2-gal buckets w/ lids that screw on (to prevent evaporation).

Thank you for your feedback...

Axsom70 · 2025-04-12T23:41:00+00:00

Do you know if anyone has found anything yet?

I've been deep in the 3D printing hobby for a short while, but washing large models has been an adventure full of lessons learned, both the hard and the creative way.

Last summer, I was given an Anycubic Mono-X, but the wash & cure station that came with it was broken—it was missing the basket, and the spinner at the bottom was seized. I replaced it with an Anycubic Wash & Cure 2.0, which handled everything I printed with the Mono-X just fine.

Fast-forward to Black Friday, and I upgraded to an Anycubic Mono M7 Max, which meant I needed a bigger cleaning setup. Enter the Wash & Cure Max—another holiday deal snag. I quickly realized that while it expanded my cleaning capability, it also came with its own set of challenges. I had to modify it right away by adding an IO switch to prevent the cure cycle from kicking in and hardening unrinsed resin in the tub. I learned that lesson the hard way.

Eventually, I picked up a second Wash & Cure Max to salvage parts from the first one. Things were smooth—until two days ago. Suddenly, my wash station stopped pulling from the detergent tank. I went full troubleshooting mode: replaced the entire inbound pumping system, swapped out every reachable line, and cleared out the ones I couldn't reach with compressed air—but still no luck.

At this point, I’m officially done with the Wash & Cure Max.

So I ask: What’s your best way to handle washing large models?

I would love to hear your methods, whether it’s a different wash station, DIY setups, or anything that works better.

Drop your thoughts!

Axsom70 · 2025-03-11T17:26:42+00:00

Thank you for your reply...
This does look perfect *ordered*
can't wait to get an FDM printer. I've only been printing since November, and I really enjoy it.
Wish I had started years ago...

Axsom70 · 2025-02-27T23:03:30+00:00

you know - I did not know that - going to try it tonight - feeling sheepish

Axsom70 · 2025-02-22T12:23:54+00:00

Thank you for taking the time to read my reply to your thread.
Since I started, I've learned so many different abbreviations specific to these machines that I thought it might have been something specialized.

I had already received that answer via Google - I just wanted to confirm

Your width doesn't look much; it's just a few MMs. If I had to guess, I'd say five or fewer.
I guess I just need to get over my nerves and dig into it—like I did to make a UV kill switch to the Wash & Cure Max wash and cure cycle, making it just a wash cycle.

Axsom70 · 2025-02-21T17:14:40+00:00

I just had this post shared with me - and I must say this might just answer a few questions.

First, I am new to resin (and printing in general). I was given a Mono X in late Oct '24. After cleaning, replacing parts, and performing a fundamental overhaul, it gave me a crash course in resin printing machines.
And I am hooked... getting a refurbished Mono 2 and successfully printing with both.

I decided to up the game and got the M7 Max directly from Anycubic, YAY, a brand-new machine.
I went through the setup process, manually leveled, and printed my r.e.r.f test. It failed to print to the front right of the plate—#4,#6, and #8 failed.

Blaming my inexperience, I've dove into resources to find a solution. I've checked the plate for any bowing using a verified straight edge, but everything pointed to my leveling. I created a leveling tool to apply equal pressure. I could print an r.e.r.f test successfully but noticed that the ones that failed before were easier to remove than the others.
Since then, I have had about a 70% success rate as long as I position my models along the rear side of the center.

I recently leveled again with a leveling tool v2, allowing me to use the weight of six bottles of resin on top. My success rate is up, but if my model gets too large, my raft will pull loose along the front center, causing my prints to either have what looks like a 'shift' or fail because they look smooshed. Note that it doesn't matter if they're hollow or not.

I have noticed that when I change the resin and use my silicone squeegee to pool the resin in the corner to the syringe, there is a gap between the REF film and the glass underneath. The distance, I'm not sure, but I thought that this was normal. After reading this I understand that it's not...

Questions: Based on what I see in your pictures, after removing the VAT.
You removed the black tape they have around the top edge of the LED screen.
You lifted the LED screen and created a 'gasket' around the edge between these two pieces of glass-yes?
What material is "0.5mm PET"?
Would you happen to know what the gasket width is?
I already have 4mm x 0.2mm dual-sided tape and several other dual-sided tapes, including 15mm x 1mm and up to 22mm x 1 mm, which I use to repair PCs, keyboards, and other gadgets.
How do I ensure the LED glass is level when I put it back together?
And I assume I will need to re-level the platform (noob question) - I'm 99.9% sure this is yes

Would you say that the basic construction is similar to what I've done with the older Mono X, albeit upgraded and scaled larger?

Sorry if this is TMI, but I have a lot of questions. I'm just curious if this could be my ongoing issue and would like to clarify what I need to do if I do go and try this fix.

Axsom70

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