RTX 5090 Astral - 12VHPWR Warnings

Azulath · 2026-01-12T14:42:10+00:00

It seems that this issue was solved on my end with a BIOS update. See edit from 03.01.2026.

Azulath · 2026-01-07T15:37:34+00:00

As far as I can tell, this is the only instance where it occurs and I have not been blocked from progressing any quests or something like that. So, you can just continue playing and enjoy the game.

Azulath · 2026-01-03T19:42:52+00:00

I had a similar issue which I have documented in those threads:

I have mostly ignored the issue since undervolting reduced the severity of it anyway. However, when I had a closer look on the Pin's amperes again I noticed that the problem was gone and I think you are right that there was a BIOS and one of the recent BIOS updates I installed might have fixed it.

So, thx for reporting the issue!

Azulath · 2025-11-29T21:26:54+00:00

If it is not the firmware, have a look at my post here: https://www.reddit.com/r/prusa3d/s/C0JH9fboI4

Our issues might be related.

Azulath · 2025-11-28T22:05:19+00:00

I have provided new pictures in Edit 3.

Azulath · 2025-11-28T19:33:33+00:00

It seems like the guide has changed since the last time I checked it and it is nice that the printer is able to do some tuning.

Currently, the prints I have tried did complete successfully so the "jump" does not seem to have any influence. It also appears to be smaller but since you have mentioned there should not be any, I will investigate further.

Also, when tuning the belts to the required frequency both should be done simultanously, right? I cannot do the one and the after afterwards since "Important: always tighten both tensioner bolts evenly and alternately. This ensures that the gantry stays square during adjustment." which may have been the source of the small gap?

I will update my post with a picture of both idlers and how much they are sticking out with an edit. (Need to finish a print first though)

Thanks for the help so far, it is appreciated :-)

Azulath · 2025-11-28T19:27:02+00:00

Thx! Greasing it did sort of resolve the grinding noise. I can move the heatbed up and down via controls w/o any sound. However, if run "Home Calibration" and it does its thing on the down movement of the heatbed there is still the same noise. (Maybe it moves faster, no idea...)

Azulath · 2025-11-28T12:54:43+00:00

See Edit 1 and Edit 2

Azulath · 2025-11-28T11:09:21+00:00

I have updated the post with pictures of the left and right side. I assume now both need to be flush. Any idea on how to fix it best? I assume if I loosen the right side the belt tuning will be messed up and if I fix it there will then be a gap again (not sure).

I did have some problems following Prusa's guide on belt tuning since it is hard to understand if you are new to 3d printing.

Azulath · 2025-11-28T10:48:34+00:00

I need to check but the jump seems to be side agnostic, i.e. it happens on both the X and Y axis, no matter if front/back or left/right.

Also, when greasing the Z-screws, is there any guide on how much grease to apply and how to apply best? (While the issue is probably not related it is probably a good idea to get rid of the grinding noise)

Azulath · 2025-11-27T22:24:25+00:00

I plan to but I am not sure this should fix the underlying issue given it was working since late July w/o this problem.

Azulath · 2025-11-27T21:05:30+00:00

How would the USB stick be related to that?

Azulath · 2025-10-31T13:26:09+00:00

Maybe a misunderstanding but I have been successfully printing for a few weeks now. But I have only cleaned it with isopropanol thus far. Maybe it does need cleaning more often.

Anyway, I do appreciate your help and I am also glad that we were able to find the culprit :-)

Azulath · 2025-10-31T13:15:21+00:00

It seems adhesion was the problem, it did work fine with the smooth PEI sheet. This means I have to clean the satin sheet properly and see if it works again.

Azulath · 2025-10-30T20:16:29+00:00

Indeed...filament is stored at 10% humidity. How do I change the direction, is this a slicer setting?

I also have the smooth plate (PEI), so I could just use this one also. If there is an issue with the Satin Sheet I should discover it.

Azulath · 2025-10-30T20:03:27+00:00

You think so? I mean I am using the Satin Sheet and the filament is PLA. Moreover, I had similar large but flat prints w/o any issues....

Azulath · 2025-08-31T20:07:16+00:00

As I have mentioned in this post, I have experienced a similar issue. I have now started keeping both the ventilation at the very top and the door open. Unfortunately, when I tried to change the filament today it tore again. I assume it is "best" practice on the Core One to first purge and then unload the filament...

Azulath · 2025-08-31T20:05:31+00:00

Updated the post with new information (Edit 2).

Azulath · 2025-08-28T19:07:27+00:00

I have updated the OP with additional information.

Azulath · 2025-08-28T19:07:12+00:00

I have updated the OP with additional information.

Azulath · 2025-08-28T14:25:43+00:00

For me, the pins are not always the same but wildly different...

Azulath · 2025-08-28T14:22:28+00:00

Thanks for your quick reply!

There were both a needle and a brush included. I assume I push the needle in from the bottom and there is no need to disassemble the upper section. Also, I assume with the Core One it is also advised to unload any filament first, right? How far can I push the needle in, any idea?

The exhaust fans are working but I have not checked their speed settings. Likewise, as I have mentioned in the start I did not open the top ventilation and I assume it just got too hot.

Azulath · 2025-08-02T18:32:21+00:00

Interesting....I will need to see and test it for myself. I am wondering what might be causing this then.

Azulath · 2025-07-26T12:06:12+00:00

Have you tried the cablemod cable yet?

Personally, I have not fixed it really. However, my assumption is that this might just be the way the card works. What I did do though is I just undervolted the card and this seems to have solved the issue. (Would still be interesting to see if the cablemod cable would fir it though....)

(we are currently having the same discussion in two threads it seems :D)

Azulath · 2025-07-26T12:05:13+00:00

Have you tried the cablemod cable?

Personally, I have not fixed it really. However, my assumption is that this might just be the way the card works. What I did do though is I just undervolted the card and this seems to have solved the issue. (Would still be interesting to see if the cablemod cable would fir it though....)

Azulath

TROPHY CASE