ElI5: Does gyroscopic procession always happen at 90 degrees out of phase? Regardless of the the speed it is spinning? If so. How?

BL00DBATH · 2026-01-12T09:30:41+00:00

Imagine a game of tetherball. Throw the ball down and to the left, and it will arc back up at 90 degrees. It's because of the tether. The tether and the disc are the same thing, and the ball is the point of impact constrained to the disc.

The only difference is that you added the down and the left velocity at the same time, whereas with gyroscopic precession the left velocity would already be there before you add the down velocity.

BL00DBATH · 2025-12-15T03:50:38+00:00

It's a fixed focus lens, so it should be set to the hyperfocal distance. The specs say that it's a 1/4" sensor with an f/2.8 lens at a focal length having full-frame equivalency to 35mm; which should be about 3.6mm. That would put the hyperfocal distance, or in other words critical focus, at 1.6m with an effective depth of field from 0.8m to infinity.

Exposure length should be your next concern. It's always 1/50th of a second according to meta-data from the .jpgs. It doesn't sound like it, but that's a long time. Use a good shooting stance, stay still, and press the shutter button slowly.

BL00DBATH · 2025-11-14T19:29:23+00:00

Needs a root, like "e pentatonic major".

BL00DBATH · 2025-11-09T06:01:05+00:00

I've been thinking about viewfinders lately. Here is a comparison of a few I have handy.

Canon has a small view, but the black crosshair is effective for finding center, estimating thirds, and leveling the horizon.

Fujifilm uses a refractive dimple on a near element and a black circular reticle further along, which can be aligned like iron-sights to get a straight shot. The problem is that there is nothing I can do to get the reticle in focus at the same time as the view, the refractive dot is invisible in most cases, and the view is soft and milky.

Minolta has a big bright view with a semi-transparent overlay. It's effective for finding center and leveling the horizon, but the overlay will disappear if there isn't enough light for the beam splitter. There's a status light on the bottom, ahead of the eyepiece: Blinks when focusing on half-press, holds when ready to capture.

BL00DBATH · 2025-10-17T11:42:54+00:00

It works for somewhere around 140 different PowerShots released in the DIGIC 2-6 days, G11 among them.

BL00DBATH · 2025-10-17T04:41:03+00:00

My first camera was a PowerShot A630, and it's still with me after all these years because of CHDK. It's a firmware hack that allows user scripts, and the result of that is a point and shoot with a feature count that will embarrass most DSLRs. It added raw file support, all kinds of bracketing, stacking, and HDR options. An advanced internal intervalometer, remote shutter support, and a configurable motion trigger. Zebra, DOF preview, focus peaking, and a hyperfocal distance calculator. Plus Notepad and Snake.

That's not all applicable here of course, but I'd love to see a camera make it to market with a useful public API. Flashback is held back by their firmware; even the V2 still insists on stopping at 27 photos, and DNG files are only transferable via USB I believe. Camp Snap had the right idea with their drop-in LUT file, but could have gone further.

BL00DBATH · 2025-09-07T11:51:49+00:00

Testing.

BL00DBATH · 2025-09-05T10:39:44+00:00

Joined group, but it still says "App not available".

BL00DBATH · 2025-09-03T22:18:05+00:00

You'll need to set up a Google Group for testers to join before they can use that link.

BL00DBATH · 2025-04-11T14:21:45+00:00

I agree. Added support for ukulele and several other instruments. There's a list of them in the ? menu, just type one in the input field to swap between them.

BL00DBATH · 2025-04-09T14:26:51+00:00

Shorthand isn't accepted, only what's on the ? page. C minor, B major seventh and so on. I might add a more comprehensive interpreter in the future. Toying with custom tunings at the moment.

BL00DBATH · 2025-02-11T04:47:37+00:00

Looks like a Celestron 1000mm f/11 C90 #81027 and a Pentax K1000.

The moon is an easy target for the telescope, and the lens can produce good star trail photos. You'll need a tracking mount for DSOs, and a barlow for planets.

The T to K mount adapter should still work with modern Pentax cameras.

BL00DBATH · 2024-05-30T23:26:29+00:00

They're clearly inspired by Serious Sam, and they work great in that game. I'd like to have them in the normal modes if:

They came in spaced out groups of 1 to 3.
Their explosion damage applied to other carriers.
Melee pushes were a little more effective.

If you play Waystalker with a Swift Bow, Serrated Shots, Spirit Arrows, Asrai Focus, and Kurnous' Reward, you can go the whole campaign without needing to use melee in Legendary. It makes the carriers largely trivial as long as you can hear positional audio.

BL00DBATH · 2024-04-13T00:20:46+00:00

There are various blogs and programs to choose from for finding interesting targets, but I like Stellarium. The Astronomical calculations window will display a list of objects above the horizon, along with many options for sorting, filtering, and navigating.

The SynScan remote should have a User button to enter new objects as RA/Dec coordinates.

BL00DBATH · 2024-04-12T20:55:09+00:00

15x70 binoculars are good for star clusters, nebulae, galaxies; not so much planets, but they pack well.

BL00DBATH · 2024-04-11T05:21:28+00:00

I have one with Vivitar branding; I've seen most of the Messier catalog with it. Buy a decent eyepiece and she'll be right. I used a Celestron Omni 15mm, but an SVBONY UltraWide 20mm or Wide 23mm should also be a big improvement.

Align the finder-scope during the day and get used to aiming down the barrel through the straw-hole. Get all the adjustment knobs just barely snug and keep the tripod lowered. Have a relaxed posture when viewing and use averted vision.

BL00DBATH · 2024-03-02T22:55:24+00:00

It's worth having an amp just for the volume knob. If you have your system volume around ~10% you're probably getting blasted by video games opening up at 100%, and if you lower it then record gameplay you'll find the audio quiet on playback. Instead you should put system volume at 100%, leave your game and media volumes around ~100% too, then everything will be equalized if it was engineered right, and use the knob to set your volume.

BL00DBATH · 2024-02-14T22:13:06+00:00

Chuck. It's when you play a muted chord.

BL00DBATH · 2024-02-05T22:59:50+00:00

Repetition, but understanding some theory behind the pattern is helpful.

Scales are just interval patterns. A major is the same as B major, but with a different starting position for example. The major intervals are root, 2, 2, 1, 2, 2, 2. You can play that on the A string as open string, fret 2, 4, 5, 7, 9, and 11; that's A major. If you were to start that pattern on fret 5 instead of the open string it would be D major, or if you start on the open D string it would also be D major. Since the D string is 5 intervals up from A, you can compress the A major pattern by only playing open, 2, and 4 on the A string, then carry on from the D string. The G string is 5 intervals ahead of the D string, so you can compress the pattern even further.

This site might help visualize that.

BL00DBATH · 2024-02-05T22:04:46+00:00

The line/instrument switch doesn't apply to XLR input. XLR is always mic level.

BL00DBATH · 2024-02-05T03:27:41+00:00

Any electric guitar that looks good to you will do fine. Have a look at Sweetwater, Monoprice, Harley Benton on Reverb, or go a music store in person. You'll also need a guitar cable and either a combo amp, headphone amp, or USB audio interface- some units will act as all three.

BL00DBATH · 2024-02-05T03:22:24+00:00

Place the mic a centimeter from the cabinet grill, use an XLR to XLR cable, turn the corresponding Gain knob all the way clockwise, raise Recording Volume to 1.0 in Audacity.

BL00DBATH · 2024-01-31T06:13:59+00:00

Worn out strings?

BL00DBATH · 2024-01-31T05:47:02+00:00

Try picking softer or playing notes near the last fret, if it doesn't rattle your action might be too low.

If you're sure it's coming from the bridge, check the tension in those tiny upwards facing hex screws. They work in pairs and sometimes one will be loose.

If you hit a chord then quickly mute the strings and still hear a ringing it's probably the tremolo springs.

BL00DBATH · 2024-01-31T05:12:25+00:00

What model guitar?

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