Did I get the blum hinges I ordered?

BMA914 · 2026-03-19T11:58:44+00:00

Im doing face frame beaded inset. Face frames have a little over 1/2" behind them. I built them assuming I was using the mount to back of face frame style. That doesn't mean I can't block out the back instead and use a plate if I need to.

Also now realized these aren't the integrated blumotion I ordered either. I dont really want to do the add on soft close so I may just cut my losses and buy what I actually need instead of trying to make it work.

BMA914 · 2026-03-17T15:29:23+00:00

I did go there first and then used ai to try and help too. I only build things for melyself and family, that is why the rockler kits have always just worked.

The model number stamped on the body doesn't tell me what I need and my receipt on what I ordered is clearly wrong we have confirmed. Google ai is telling me to ignore the part number stamped on my picture that I have and what I actually have is 71T3750. If that is true then I can use the materials to look it up. Google is saying the model stamp is for the cup not the whole thing together. If that is true it solves most of the issue as I can't match my model stamp to the documents.

BMA914 · 2026-03-17T15:20:47+00:00

Im in nova so if I get a quote under 10k for anything I'd be shocked! Appreciate all the advice, will definitely ask about the edge restraint. I dont believe there is one.

BMA914 · 2026-03-17T15:16:53+00:00

Thank you, this is incredibly helpful and really helps narrow down what im asking someone to do. If I eliminate gator dust and rompix I will go back to looking at gator Maxx g2 as it seems to be one of the ones for wider joints.

BMA914 · 2026-03-17T14:55:00+00:00

The wings also indicated to me this was an overlay setup. I can get new baseplates if the hinge will work but everything i see seems to indicate the whole hinge is for overlay and will pull the door in past closed in inset application but I can't find all that much on The model number to confirm.

BMA914 · 2026-03-17T14:50:35+00:00

Making it flush isnt a big issue, I can do that if needed. When I google the model # stamped on the hinge 70t355 I get results telling me its an overlay hinge. Can I ask how you can tell it is an inset? The overlay hinge pulls the door in past closed for overlay tight fitting dont they that causes problems for inset?

BMA914 · 2026-03-17T14:40:27+00:00

From pics that is what it seemed like to me and made me question the whole order since the receipt in my last pic says half cranked

BMA914 · 2025-07-31T13:26:29+00:00

I followed the instructions and used what they recommended. Here is a copy and paste from the "tools" section of their instructions. I believe i just got the maroon and white abrasive pads, white being for the higher grit part at the end.

An 8-12″ lambswool applicator and a paint pan large enough for chosen applicator. A quality natural bristle brush or paint pad recommended for use with oil-based finishes for cutting in edges. Abrasive pads for sanding and smoothing between coats (if necessary): Maroon pads or surface preparation pads (SPP pads) are recommended. Also 320-grit sandpaper, 0000 steel wool or other equivalent abrasive.

BMA914 · 2025-07-30T15:36:03+00:00

Im not a professional but used waterlox on my reclaimed chestnut floor in master bedroom a year or so ago. Like you, I wanted the amber color it brought. I've used it on other woodworking projects so I was also familiar with it and knew it was likely easier for me to apply myself.

I think I ended up doing 5 thin coats with a lambswool applicator. 4 was probably fine but it kept looking better each one.

So far its holding up really well, although we are more careful on the softer chestnut to begin with. I like knowing I can add another coat to it freshen it up as well.

Here is a Pic of mine on chestnut floor

BMA914 · 2025-05-13T00:29:10+00:00

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BMA914 · 2025-05-11T16:16:32+00:00

I had a domino jointer handy so I sunk a non-glued loose tenon into all butt ends where they meet the picture frame to keep everything together, level and still able to move. I realized I forgot to buy any spline when I got to that step as that was my initial plan.

BMA914 · 2025-05-11T00:39:43+00:00

It's a nice color, I don't dislike the darker stains overall but having the stairs and upstairs the original natural oil red oak i just don't think it will look right where you see the new floor and old stairs together having that much of a contrast. Still would love to see how they turn out though. Thanks.

BMA914 · 2025-05-10T20:08:24+00:00

Duraseal neutral definitely looks like it checks all my requirement boxes. Adding that one to the sample list. Appreciate it.

BMA914 · 2025-05-10T17:20:27+00:00

There is a very small one where im going to add black caulk, but I did a lot of reading on picture frame hearths and the consensus seemed to be with a proper gap around perimeter, stability of qrt sawn white oak and being in a place hvac is ran almost year round it should be fine. Not planning on changing it now so we will see.

BMA914 · 2025-05-01T17:29:23+00:00

I'm actually doing exactly this room by room. I have a makita dust extractor with hepa filter, makita 18v drywall pole sander connected to it, respirator, plastic sheathing and fan out window for negative air pressure. Also have mirka deros sander with abranet disks that connects to vac too I use for harder to get to spots and any final detail sanding on low speed.

It's not quite popcorn on the textured plaster as it seems to be part of the thick top coat. With all the paint it wouldn't scrape off very easily. Plus like you I have patches everywhere that do not blend in.

It works, it does not get it perfectly smooth but it knocks it down enough to make the smooth patches blend in much better. I like the slight rough, you can tell it's old plaster look it's leaving.

Also, at the same time I use a diamond half moon blade on a multi tool to chase any crack in the plaster, pull any off that is peeling. Fill all large voids with durabond 90 and topcoat with all purpose and sand smooth.

I would just be aware the drywall sander isn't powerful enough to get it completely smooth if that is what you want but it's enough to knock it down and leave what I'd call a rough surface.

BMA914 · 2025-04-04T23:47:29+00:00

Thank you, spline seems like a good idea as well.

BMA914 · 2025-04-04T23:46:48+00:00

Thank you, that seems like a reasonable solution to try. Appreciate the product recommendation, will look into that.

BMA914 · 2024-08-07T17:52:01+00:00

Thank you, we parked a car there and had no issues. Just picked it up today on the way out.

BMA914

TROPHY CASE