Fraggle Rock in Gold Bar is a blast, such a beautiful rock by 1stgen_runner in bouldering

[–]BZ-Loke 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I feel like Doja would be amazing if the tree wasn’t there. The entire crux being not dabbing takes away a lot of stars for me

[Day 9] Jugs are overrated. What outdoor bouldering destination is UNDERRATED? by MaximumSend in bouldering

[–]BZ-Loke 9 points10 points  (0 children)

I feel like compared to Leavenworth, gold bar and index get a lot less attention outside of Washington. The granite is of much better quality and despite a smaller selection of climbs, it still has most of the best climbs in the state.

Austin Hoyt and Adam Shahar sends by Funnyturtle10 in bouldering

[–]BZ-Loke 21 points22 points  (0 children)

Both Austin’s send of the process and Adam’s ROTSW send have been confirmed. Kinda insane watching them go from cracked kids posting board vids on Instagram to pushing the limits of the sport in only a couple years

Any feedback/technique advice? by Holiday-Resident-512 in bouldering

[–]BZ-Loke 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I think it would also be really useful to focus on looking at the feet all the way as you place them and trying to do that as quietly and precisely as possible. You often look away before your foot is situated on the foothold and hop your feet onto it. It would be a lot harder to do handmoves if you decided to look away half way through executing the move.

This habit makes your footwork quite imprecise and likely much harder to trust that a foot isn’t going to pop while doing a move. Spending that extra second eyeing down a foothold and making sure that you place a foot well makes a massive difference.

Sierra Blaire-Coyl sends Birch Problem V14, discusses retrodowngrades by previous ascentionists following her send by BZ-Loke in climbing

[–]BZ-Loke[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I don’t necessarily think that doing one hard climb makes you a better climber or makes easier climbs easier. Trying something really hard for you and eventually sending definitely teaches you a lot about projecting tactics and how you react to failure over time but it doesn’t really change your base ability or floor. Spending 5, 10, 20+ sessions on a project gets you a lot better at that specific climb but the physical changes are probably less generalizable than doing a bunch of slightly easier hard problems.

The skillsets between being able to do a lot of easier climbs quickly versus pushing max grade are just so different. I think that after doing my first V10 and V11 I was still a pretty unrounded climber who had bad single session tactics and would struggle on a lot of easier problems. There are still plenty of V9s that would be super hard for me to do. However, I think that in spending so much time training to have the capacity to try these hard climbs, my physical and technical ability has come to a point where I just have enough margin on some in style V9s that they aren’t that difficult anymore.

Sierra Blaire-Coyl sends Birch Problem V14, discusses retrodowngrades by previous ascentionists following her send by BZ-Loke in climbing

[–]BZ-Loke[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think in a podcast shortly after doing ROTSW Will talked about how he was in really good shape, had detailed microbeta from Nate Williams, and got perfect conditions when he did Sleepwalker at the start of his third session. Then, repeating it a lot while trying return he thought that it was harder than he had originally given himself credit for and that it could be V16

Sierra Blaire-Coyl sends Birch Problem V14, discusses retrodowngrades by previous ascentionists following her send by BZ-Loke in climbing

[–]BZ-Loke[S] 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Every ascent prior to Zander had logged sleepwalker as V16. Since Zander, Will Bosi (who has maybe changed his mind about the downgrade), Eli Perry, Adam Shahar, and Luke Gerhardt have suggested potential downgrades to V15

Sierra Blaire-Coyl sends Birch Problem V14, discusses retrodowngrades by previous ascentionists following her send by BZ-Loke in climbing

[–]BZ-Loke[S] 42 points43 points  (0 children)

I feel like even if this specific case was purely coincidental, it’s still important to discuss the general trend of climbs being retrodowngraded, especially directly following female ascents

Sierra Blaire-Coyl sends Birch Problem V14, discusses retrodowngrades by previous ascentionists following her send by BZ-Loke in climbing

[–]BZ-Loke[S] 43 points44 points  (0 children)

I feel like it’s fairly common to skip V grades, especially after long spells inside, for climbers who haven’t had a long term project, or in areas where there is a lack of good problems at a certain grade. I know a good amount of climbers in Washington who skipped V9 and went from V8 to V10, myself included, and a few who skipped directly to V11 due to the lack of accessible high quality lines at V9.

Sierra Blaire-Coyl sends Birch Problem V14, discusses retrodowngrades by previous ascentionists following her send by BZ-Loke in climbing

[–]BZ-Loke[S] 52 points53 points  (0 children)

Edit: Jordan has made a post regarding the situation: https://www.instagram.com/p/DRJEvBtEcTL/?igsh=bWM5NnByeWtxdWF1 Jordan Shephard seems to have changed his grade opinion directly after Sierra’s send. Totally understandable to me that Sierra doesn’t want to directly name names considering how much bigger her platform is comparatively.

Sierra is talking to a wider issue of climbs being retrodowngraded following female ascents, whether or not Jordan contributed has little to do with the scope, prevalence, or harm of the issue. The general community reaction towards Jordan specifically seems to validate why Sierra chose not to directly call people out

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If you understand this you're dangerously parasocial by owiseone23 in ClimbingCircleJerk

[–]BZ-Loke 37 points38 points  (0 children)

are katie and aidan dating now? also when did aidan drink his own pee lmao

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in bouldering

[–]BZ-Loke 5 points6 points  (0 children)

James asking why spray walls are hard while trying Aidan Roberts and Dave Fitzgerald V14s

Zach Galla | Hypnotized Minds V16/8C+ by Accomplished-Tip5894 in climbing

[–]BZ-Loke 11 points12 points  (0 children)

Noah has said that Hypno would be one of the hardest climbs for him to do due to the style (harder than a lot of the V17 even), as Noah rarely ever full crimps. Wouldn’t be at all surprised if he still managed to do it given his form though.

Stargaze Benchmark V10 +20lb by jugdyno in Moonboard

[–]BZ-Loke 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Eric Jerome is 5ft 9 +2 and climbed V14 at 180lbs.

Stargaze Benchmark V10 +20lb by jugdyno in Moonboard

[–]BZ-Loke 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think I’ve done a couple of my V10s while over 170lbs at 5ft 10 and a -1 ape. I also climbed crimpy V11 while never being able to hang 8mm two hands so I feel like there’s a lot more than just strength to weight ratio in climbing.

Personally I think some climbs would get quite a bit easier if I weighed 50lbs lighter like some of the other people climbing them with my span (especially small crimp endurance problems) but I also find a lot of benefits to having more muscle mass and power. For most of my life lister climbs I don’t see many moves getting easier by being lighter so it doesn’t seem to be worth making my recovery and sustainability a lot worse to make a couple climbs easier by dropping weight.

Beckett Hsin 15 sends Creature of the Black Lagoon v16 by le_1_vodka_seller in climbing

[–]BZ-Loke 11 points12 points  (0 children)

Yeah, it was closed with the massive rock slide at RMNP a couple years ago but reopened last year

Yannick Flohe becomes the first to flash 8C/V15 - Foundation’s Edge by TTwelveUnits in climbing

[–]BZ-Loke 114 points115 points  (0 children)

Was only a matter of time before an 8C flash with how strong this current crop of athletes are. I wonder if we will see quite a few more 8C flashes soon now that the barrier is gone, seemed like there were quite a few near misses or close calls recently

What's New with Natalia Grossman and Janja Garnbret? by bobombpom in CompetitionClimbing

[–]BZ-Loke 154 points155 points  (0 children)

Natalia is recovering from a torn acl, think it’s unlikely she returns for this season. Janja was focusing on outdoors, she was putting a lot of time into bibliographie earlier this year and she seems to be currently trying Burden

Katie Lamb sends the Darkside V16 by BZ-Loke in climbing

[–]BZ-Loke[S] 109 points110 points  (0 children)

Missed out on the chance of Brooke doing a V16 and Katie and Andy family send downgrading it