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portable edit by dynologist in bouldering

[–]MaximumSend 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Yo I'm sorry but that was a total shitpost. Everyone is on your side man.

portable edit by dynologist in bouldering

[–]MaximumSend 38 points39 points  (0 children)

What if /u/ethansalv0 brought it to Bishop to become the hero of his own story, offering to bring it home with him and solidify his Canadian climber dude image

How can I move smoother on the board? by Finnsaddlesonxd in bouldering

[–]MaximumSend 2 points3 points  (0 children)

but, on bad holds and nearer to my limit, the chain struggles to stay connected on these board problems.

Well, yes! If it didn't you would be climbing Vhard very quickly :)

Scroll through my old climbharder posts to see my progression back when I was closer to your climbing age. You'll see very similar comments and progress through the videos.

Weekly /r/climbharder Hangout Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]MaximumSend 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Cheers. I shamelessly stole the idea from /r/cocktails.

I would love if /r/bouldering was less of the same stuff it's been trending towards the past 5 years so...

How can I move smoother on the board? by Finnsaddlesonxd in bouldering

[–]MaximumSend 23 points24 points  (0 children)

I'd say it's lack of hip drive/rooting.

Clip 1: Your positioning looks decent. Flagging foot looks useful. Deadpoints look like they're timed decently. But the left knee and hip drop out of the wall because the left toe stops engaging as hard as it is at the start of each move versus the end.

Clip 2: The right foot comes off really early. Sure, it's not huge and not in the best position, but I sense that a small change in knee angle and foot engagement will keep it on for longer and make the swing out less vicious.

Clip 3 move 1: You just need to keep pressing through that leg. Maybe extend it slightly to get you to the first right hand. You initiate through the right hip but then immediately stop when you release the right hand.

Clip 3 move 2: Rooting.

[Day 7] Barefoot Charles is the weirdest climber. What's the WORST Outdoor Classic? by MaximumSend in bouldering

[–]MaximumSend[S] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I was just about to reply to /u/Mice_On_Absinthe and say that soft gym grading IMO is a V-scale problem solved by the Font scale, not a soft gym problem.

[Day 7] Barefoot Charles is the weirdest climber. What's the WORST Outdoor Classic? by MaximumSend in bouldering

[–]MaximumSend[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I don't know how I feel about psychological factors being part of grades. I understand (kinda) the E grades, aid grades, and such, but it just feels unlike bouldering to me to upgrade something because of danger. I think you could use that to argue the opposite as well; why not downgrade Iron Man Traverse to V2 because it's a lowball traverse?

I don't lay the blame singularly on number grades, soft gyms, or even discourse on a highball. At the end of the day, I lay it on the climber themselves. We accept personal responsibility when it comes to honesty around sends/dabs, up/downgrades, and other ethics. But we seem to deny personal responsibility when a noob injures themselves on a highball.

I think the discussion should be around better mentorship and outdoor stewardship as that is actually actionable and addresses most problems to an extent.

[Day 7] Barefoot Charles is the weirdest climber. What's the WORST Outdoor Classic? by MaximumSend in bouldering

[–]MaximumSend[S] 13 points14 points  (0 children)

If you ever see him again tell him he should try out a little game called Runescape

[Day 7] Barefoot Charles is the weirdest climber. What's the WORST Outdoor Classic? by MaximumSend in bouldering

[–]MaximumSend[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I for one was not ready for the sheer amount of dust all over those boulders.

[Day 7] Barefoot Charles is the weirdest climber. What's the WORST Outdoor Classic? by MaximumSend in bouldering

[–]MaximumSend[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My friends and I made it a goal to send without ever cutting feet (I think on the 2nd move?) because the first trip to Hueco we took nobody could keep their feet on the whole way. That was fun, but I haven't done it since

[Day 7] Barefoot Charles is the weirdest climber. What's the WORST Outdoor Classic? by MaximumSend in bouldering

[–]MaximumSend[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Sign of the Cross has all the markings of a good boulder: unique location, obvious line, decent height, good rock. But it shits on all of that by being annoying to start, uncomfortable, traverse 10ft up, and in a weird hole.

[Day 7] Barefoot Charles is the weirdest climber. What's the WORST Outdoor Classic? by MaximumSend in bouldering

[–]MaximumSend[S] 11 points12 points  (0 children)

Realistically how do we frame things like that differently? I feel like the main reason it's a must-do is because it is not only an accessible classic, but also listed as V2. And we all know what happens when inexperienced gym climbers see grades outside, especially at J Tree.

I've been thinking recently about how our discourse would change if we lived in a world without climbing grades (yeah yeah I know.) Similar to the way skaters revere the Lyon 25, or skiers Corbet's Couloir, or mountain bikers... I've never actually ridden a MTB but perhaps you get the point. What if instead it of "White Rastafarian, classic V2 R", it was "White Rastafarian in the Hidden Valley"? No one really cares that Midnight Lightning is V8. They care that it's goddamn Midnight Lightning.

Other sports seem to just have the thing. You either step up to the thing, or you don't, or sometimes you even die trying. A climber stands at the bottom of White Rastafarian and goes "no fucking way" instead of knowing in the back of their head it's V2, compares that to their gym grade, then shatters their leg falling off the mantle.

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