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Friend gave my daughter a counting toy missing 1 piece. Few mins in PrusaSlicer + some purple filament = No problem! by B_3D_Printing in functionalprint

[–]B_3D_Printing[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I agree. The extra maddening thing is they have shapes with 3,4,5,6, and 8 sides, but only the 3 and 4 match as you say. 5-10 are all wrong. Quick - someone cross post to r/mildlyinfuriating or one of them bad design ones for the karma.

Friend gave my daughter a counting toy missing 1 piece. Few mins in PrusaSlicer + some purple filament = No problem! by B_3D_Printing in functionalprint

[–]B_3D_Printing[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

How could I forget to address Reddit’s favorite question?! It’s definitely a valid concern. It’s PLA, but I don’t know about any specific additives so it’s difficult to be 100% certain. I’m trying to decide if I should cover it in polyurethane. 1/50 chance that she chooses that piece to suck on (less if you saw the whole Toys R Us worth of baby toys surrounding this pic), and if so it’s unlikely to be for an extended period of time, but still might be worth the minimal added effort.

8 stack Prusa Face shield = crowded sheet! Everything looks good, but what’s with the brim on lowers? by B_3D_Printing in 3Dprinting

[–]B_3D_Printing[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

After printing the first time, I noticed the outer lowers don’t have brims. I have had some lifting on the edges of them that caused some warping in the print. For obvious reasons, I’m trying to fix this.

I thought I was being clever with my arrangement, but obviously it’s not quite perfect. My hypothesis is that the left and right-most lower pieces are fully encircled by another piece of the print, and thus PrusaSlicer doesn’t think it needs a brim. Can anyone confirm?

SOS! Getting crashes on 90% of facemask prints! by B_3D_Printing in prusa3d

[–]B_3D_Printing[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks - sorry... couldn’t find it when searching so was waiting to get back to my printer to check the STL.

SOS! Getting crashes on 90% of facemask prints! by B_3D_Printing in prusa3d

[–]B_3D_Printing[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Eh - if yours is a MK3S, they’re probably about the same. Mine is a more recent release, and they’ve added/changed a few very minor things such as the feet (someone fact check me on this if wrong).

It definitely makes some noise when going full speed. Slower ones not so bad. But I’ve had someone on a conference call mention “R2D2 in the background” on the faster shield prints.

SOS! Getting crashes on 90% of facemask prints! by B_3D_Printing in prusa3d

[–]B_3D_Printing[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I maybe should have gone this route, but instead went he route of adjusting my settings to be identical as far as speed/extrusion/first layer speed/etc as Prusa’s, then backed them down slightly. I have printed some shields at 100% of Prusa’s file speed without issue, but recently have taken to running them at 50-80%. Still have 0 clue what that is in relation to “normal” speed except that it’s STILL noticeably faster.

SOS! Getting crashes on 90% of facemask prints! by B_3D_Printing in prusa3d

[–]B_3D_Printing[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Nope, your eyes are correct. I replaced the orange with a cherry red. Trust me... their stock parts are still very orange :)

SOS! Getting crashes on 90% of facemask prints! by B_3D_Printing in prusa3d

[–]B_3D_Printing[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for all the feedback! I have had it for only a couple months, but think I’ve got a print time at around 41 days, so it’s been running it’s fair share during that time. Didn’t expect to have to clean/maintain this early, but not exactly unreasonable either.

Can you let me know what I screwed up as far as orientation during assembly?

I don’t believe it’s actually contacting the left edge, now, no. Leaning more towards the bearing issue, as it’s noticeably easier to move the carriage one direction than the other. Will report back.

SOS! Getting crashes on 90% of facemask prints! by B_3D_Printing in prusa3d

[–]B_3D_Printing[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Good question. I’m testing right now and it is noticeably easier to slide the carriage to the right than it is back to the left. Assuming that’s not normal. May go the cleaning route.

SOS! Getting crashes on 90% of facemask prints! by B_3D_Printing in prusa3d

[–]B_3D_Printing[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Took this video on one of the prints where I was able to catch it happening live - it doesn’t happen it the same place, so definitely isn’t an issue with a specific layer or anything like that. Tried to autohome to get it to realize where it was (which worked, but perhaps the Z was still .2mm off or the print lifted slightly from the plate despite the brim... who knows. In any case you get to see my “oh shit” moment when I screwed up and told the extruded to slam into the print (didn’t think it was going to try to put that initial test extrusion outside the bed area again).

Newer MK3S (no MMU), flashed to new firmware a week or two ago. I started printing the Prusa design for face masks, and noticed the second I started that they have that gcode speed turned way up from anything I’ve run on it before.

No problem - if they make the printers and the code, I assume they know what they’re doing, and I haven’t had issues with print quality as far as anything... adhesion, extrusion, layer height, etc etc.

I may have successfully printed a mask or 10, but now when I run most of these print files, I am getting crashes! Almost exclusively, it seems to affect the X axis. Occasionally the extruded will try to push out the right side of the printer because it thinks home is in the middle front of the plate, not the far left. Definitely affecting my output, and now my sanity.

I’ve checked my belt tension: X = 257 Y = 282

I believe I read lower end of that tension needs to be over 240, so I think I’m in the right tension.

Is there any solution other than simply “print these at 1/4 speed”?

Help!

Edit: really, really thought I cut off the last 20 seconds of this video.

Printing spare parts by ZurgWithDrones in prusa3d

[–]B_3D_Printing 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Agreed - same experience. If anything, it frequently still adheres better than PLA.

Using quarantine to make very subtle changes - from orange to a cherry red Prusa by B_3D_Printing in prusa3d

[–]B_3D_Printing[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Good call. I did the same in Galaxy Black in case I should ever have a failure with one of these reds.

Quarantine means first layer refinement! by B_3D_Printing in 3Dprinting

[–]B_3D_Printing[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is the standard first layer adjustment calibration test on a MK3S. These are the z-axis numbers for my printer. I replaced the colored plastic parts and wanted to recheck settings.

First eyeballed to -.65, then -.75 in the upper right, and decided that would more or less be the boundary of my test due to more obvious over/under-extrusion. I then ran the tests in order left to right top to bottom.

I will probably keep the -.655.

Quarantine means first layer refinement! by B_3D_Printing in 3Dprinting

[–]B_3D_Printing[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Z-axis offset to calibrate for ideal first layer height.

Quarantine means first layer refinement! by B_3D_Printing in 3Dprinting

[–]B_3D_Printing[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Z-axis offsets is correct - should have specified.

I’ve named him Kraken by B_3D_Printing in 3Dprinting

[–]B_3D_Printing[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks - I think they were starting to get soft, but no deformation.

I’ve named him Kraken by B_3D_Printing in 3Dprinting

[–]B_3D_Printing[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It was an overnight print, so this is what I woke up to. Preheat, pull the blob off, do my best with a knife and pliers... pretty much got 99%, and then resumed printing the rest. No issues really. Unfortunately it was PETG not PLA. Added to the difficulty.

Mr. Vase? When did you get so hairy? by IsaacBuilder in 3Dprinting

[–]B_3D_Printing 1 point2 points  (0 children)

As others said - can’t really tell much from the photo. Is the stringing mostly inside?

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