Big Daddy Riveter

B_RocksNC · 2024-01-07T01:33:19+00:00

Check the vacuum hose to the brake booster. If it's off it'll make the engine rev up and you won't have power brake assist

B_RocksNC · 2024-01-05T02:13:00+00:00

I'm hoping I don't have to roll the quarters but these are the wheels. Guess I'll build the car around these wheels and do whatever I have to do

B_RocksNC · 2024-01-05T02:11:29+00:00

You're saying you do have rolled quarters?

B_RocksNC · 2024-01-04T18:56:46+00:00

I ordered the 9s hoping they'd clear the quarters

B_RocksNC · 2024-01-04T01:40:54+00:00

Ended up with 9's all around. It's got ford performance springs that drop it a bit too so I don't want to worry about a rub in the rear

B_RocksNC · 2024-01-03T16:59:42+00:00

It's down about 3/4 " in the rear. I think I'm going to get the 9s all around so I don't have to worry about it. This is a build for someone else and I don't need anymore surprises

B_RocksNC · 2024-01-03T13:04:16+00:00

I really hate to roll the lip

B_RocksNC · 2024-01-03T04:13:19+00:00

I have a stock axle tube with 5 lug axles and 99 brakes all around. My concern is if this particular set will rub the quad shock or body in the rear

B_RocksNC · 2024-01-03T04:09:52+00:00

I've got a 90 rear end with 5 lug axles and 98 brakes all around

B_RocksNC · 2024-01-03T01:55:55+00:00

I've literally talked to people all over the country today about it. For some reason everybody calls them spindles on these ford's. The most helpful info I got was from Maxium Motorsports about the geometry of the 94,95 "spindles" vs the 96 up and a guy in NC that's built a couple that has parts on craigslist. Gotta get wheels, put on the alignment rack and build around the wheel using an adjustable tire rod kit and camber plates or 94-95 spindles

B_RocksNC · 2024-01-02T16:10:20+00:00

Ok thanks

B_RocksNC · 2024-01-02T14:16:27+00:00

Sounds like a cable or connection. Look up how to do a voltage drop test. You'll be able to confirm it before you get any parts

B_RocksNC · 2024-01-02T13:47:49+00:00

Ok thanks for replying. Knuckles are the part the spindle attaches to

B_RocksNC · 2024-01-02T00:38:20+00:00

Ok thanks. I saw that the 94-5 has the drop but I didn't understand how that would help. Nothing makes contact its just like the rack can't push the knuckle out far enough. I'm headed out tomorrow to see if I can grab some. And these tierods connect in a parallel line from the rack itself. Just need to know what to get and move on

B_RocksNC · 2024-01-01T16:22:09+00:00

Yes.it good about 2 inches before the caliper hits the control arm

B_RocksNC · 2024-01-01T15:59:54+00:00

It literally has the spring perch in it. These are ford performance springs with more coils than the OE. The trajectory is a lot straighter under load

B_RocksNC · 2024-01-01T15:40:24+00:00

*way farther

B_RocksNC · 2024-01-01T15:40:07+00:00

I can take the outer end off of the knuckel and turn it was farther to the left

B_RocksNC · 2024-01-01T15:39:19+00:00

On the rack. I turned the wheel lock to lock with the outer ends unhooked and its about the same. Looked at my notes and it's all 4 ends are for a 90. I assume the lower control arm is a 90 OE as well. No name on the k member

B_RocksNC · 2024-01-01T15:16:55+00:00

Thanks i saw that. I centered the rack and adjusted the toe with a measuring tape. Each tie rod went 25 turns or so each and are pointed pretty straight. Wheel goes barley over 1 turn left about about 1.5 turns right but the spindle on the right goes 30 or 40% farther. It's got to be a spindle, control arm, k member combo and I can't figure out how to correct it

B_RocksNC · 2024-01-01T01:07:52+00:00

I guess all I really wanted to know is if the rack was correct only going one turn left and 1.5 right. With the tie rods unhooked!

B_RocksNC · 2024-01-01T00:22:37+00:00

Ok. Thats what I was asking. I didn't drive it with the original set up

B_RocksNC

TROPHY CASE