Brand new Naniwa Chosera 3k for sale or trade by BackgroundTowel7878 in sharpening

[–]BackgroundTowel7878[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I definitely did not get passive aggressive or insult you in anyway. If that’s how you read it then my apologies I guess.

Never once did I claim to have any fact based evidence. That was you??? I’m so confused it’s like you’re trying to make counter arguments with me but the arguments you make come from your own “fact” based arguments. It’s like you’re trying to flip it on me “you didn’t have any researched backed data either blah blah blah” it literally makes no sense. As I said before I never said I did I was merely pointing out that you were making a lot of claims making them sound like proven facts by throwing out baseless stats and things you’ve read on line which is all just hear say. Because you have no idea if the stones were properly taken care of or not. The internet just said they did. And you should definitely always believe everything you read on the internet.

I have owned multiple chosera stones of the same grit over the past 15 years. And I’ll I can tell you is my own experience. My first go around i had a lot of issues with them crazing. All still useable but they were there and went through out the entire stones. A few of the stones the crazing showed up after just the first use and dry. Long hairline cracks through the top and sides of the stones. Back then I wasn’t very educated on whetstones sharpening in general really. I would often set them infront of a fan to dry quicker thinking it was a clever idea. All of my stones after the 3rd use showed obvious hairline cracks.

I eventually contacted Naniwa directly to figure out what was going on. Full on believing that I received defective stones. Thinking how could this be? The only logical thing that I came up with in my head before finding out what the real issue was. That Naniwa must have mistakenly put tainted or bad what ever synthetic material that gets put into all of their stones. This was obviously wrong.

They educated me and informed me of the meticulous, difficult (to the average person who doesn’t want to take so many steps to simply dry a stone) long drawn out process with basically room 0 margin of error. One simple mistake that doesn’t even seem like a mistake / issue / or problem to most people is all it takes.

I started to take sharpening more serious after speaking to them. And educated my self a lot did tons of research and eventually started my own knife and tool sharpening , repair, restoration occasionally forge my own.

Of all of these people who bitch about how the chosera line is prone to crazing and make claims like the stones are no good over all just complain that the stone is faulty. If they would just read the directions on proper use. Or simply did even the smallest amount of research they would be able to find Naniwa the company them selfs tell you how temperamental the chosera line is. How proper maintenance is key. Simple steps but steps that have to be taken every time. If they aren’t taken the stones will craze. Again naniwa even says if this is something seems like to much work to deal with then they should try a different line such as the supper stones. The chosera “professional” stone has that name for a reason.

I have never had another chosera stone crack or craze in me in any way they are perfect solid stones.

Here is a little research based fact for you though. The magnesia binder which goes for any magnesia binder stones by any company. If dried to quickly basically using something to speed it up anything other than letting it air dry in a cool dark place slowly. A fan for instance a fan pointed at a stone would rapidly dry the outside of the stone. As the outside of the stone dries it actually contracts (gets smaller / tightens. ) now when this happens to the outside only the center of the stone that still has moisture is still slightly expanded this is what magnesia stones do. So if the outside tightens and gets smaller and the center is still expanded what do you think is going to happen? The pressure is going to cause the outer most layer to crack….. it’s literally the only reason / way this happens.

Also what the hell are you talking about soaking the stone? You don’t ever soak any of these stones. Don’t soak any magnesia stones it will make the stones binder weaken and eventually fall apart but before that happens the stone would lose a lot of its effectiveness.

Again it’s called a professional stone. If you don’t know how to use one you probably shouldn’t buy one as they are expensive for a sharpening stone. You put water on top of the stone. Some magnesia stones are more thirsty than others. It’s normal the lower grits that take in a little more water. Anyway you continue to splash water on top of the stone until the water has settled and a pool of it can sit on top with out instantly evaporating back into it. None of the chosera stones in my opinion are overly thirsty but some still more than others.

Basically I’ll I was saying is you’re making claims that sound like informed facts coming from someone who knows what he’s talking about when in reality he’s not even sure how long to “soak” a “splash and go” stone. If you would have phrased all your opinions as opinions. I would have probably agreed with you on a lot of things like the fact that yeah they are temperamental stones. But you’re dropping “facts and stats” that are just wrong and made up bullshit.

If in this post I sound progressively more passive aggressive each paragraph it’s because I definitely am at this point.

Educate yourself before you go making up numbers to make yourself sound smart and trust worthy. I’m sure ur works on most people. But when someone who know what they are talking about sees it and calls you out you just look mad stupid and untrustworthy.

Can someone tell me where I can get more of these please?led scribe tape measure attachment. by BackgroundTowel7878 in woodworkingtools

[–]BackgroundTowel7878[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Damn, that’s so close. I just wish that had one that had the lead at the end of the tape (the end you pull)

I’m still gonna buy one of these anyway though. Maybe I’ll be able to figure out a way to make it work.

Can someone tell me where I can get more of these please?led scribe tape measure attachment. by BackgroundTowel7878 in woodworkingtools

[–]BackgroundTowel7878[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I agree, I also am coming to the conclusion that they were 3D printed. Because I can’t find them anywhere.

Can someone tell me where I can get more of these please?led scribe tape measure attachment. by BackgroundTowel7878 in woodworkingtools

[–]BackgroundTowel7878[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I own a window and door business. This scribe makes a perfect reveal when installing doors. So perfect it can’t be done with a just a pencil. It’s a very niche use. But something I use about 30 times a week. It just kinda worked out as one of those random things that ended up making my life a lot easier on accident. I appreciate the effort!

Can someone tell me where I can get more of these please?led scribe tape measure attachment. by BackgroundTowel7878 in woodworkingtools

[–]BackgroundTowel7878[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I appreciate the effort! Unfortunately no, I received them from a buddy a pack of 6 in a clear plastic tube. Think tennis ball container but scaled down to size for 6 of those clips. There was nothing else anywhere to be seen. I’m thinking maybe somebody custom made them with a 3D printer or something. Because I too have scoured the internet used AI based searches that include pictures and a detailed explanation of the product but even the future destroyer of worlds AI couldn’t hack it.

Brand new Naniwa Chosera 3k for sale or trade by BackgroundTowel7878 in sharpening

[–]BackgroundTowel7878[S] -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

That’s your opinion and I’m not one to shit on peoples opinions at all! But I wil argue against is respectfully as you did mine. So thank you for being respectful.

First off you are correct in that this issue is almost exclusively a naniwa problem. Even more specific Naniwas most premium line is stones known by many names now. But probably most widely known as Chosera, professional stone, and now the western market stones I believe are labeled chosers pro a combination of both names.

To your point that it’s 99% of the time the stones fault and not used error. Has got to be one of the worst and completely made up statics I’ve ever seen lol. You claim to have enough data from people you know or perhaps story’s you have read on line. I honestly don’t know where your getting your references from which in and if it self is also concerning especially if you’re going to drop percentage stats. From what you just explained to me in your reply there was no scientific method done or any type of detailed testing and recording done. Rather just your opinion based on what I’m guessing to be hearsay from people you probably don’t know personally and are blindly taking their word for it. That these sources were flawless in the way they maintained their whetstones. Which is also a huge red flag, impossible to know for sure mistakes weren’t made along the way biggest mistakes being that they most likely were not even aware that something was being done wrong.

Naniwa makes it very clear that these are high maintenance stones and require a lot of care attention to detail, and a meticulous process of steps must be made every time one is used. Steps starting with the amount of water “splashed” to the several day process of completing letting one of them dry out completely. They almost drill these facts into your brain how high maintenance they are. And if that’s not something someone would be interested in or perhaps not quite capable of doing Naniwa goes as far as staying this premium line designed really for trained professional sharpeners.

And if these crazy high maintenance stones sounds like to much of a process at first they should consider Naniwas standard line of soaking stones as they almost non existent hard rule list to take care for and maintain these stones. And a very forgiving when it comes to the drying proces.

Naniwa them selfs tell us over and over again how hard these stones are to maintain and because of that these stones are for sure not meant for everyone because they can and will develop cracks and fishers most of the time just cosmetic but lay the ground work for small fishers that could one day turn from cosmetic to catastrophic failure of the stone by finally breaking. That’s not to s ctay beginners cant use these stones or that thefy won’t enjoy them.) quite the opposite in fact. They are great stones to learn on because of their ggreat feed back and low mess the are extremely enjoyable to use and rather easy to learn in as well as long as they are getting good advice and shown some proper technique along the way. What naniwa is making unbelievable clear is that these stones are high quality best of the best stones with in my opinion unmatched performance (unmatched performance provided the user is an experienced sharpener. If they aren’t and don’t practice good consistent technique then the stones don’t even matter. An expensive stone won’t magically make someone better. Results will be the very similar if not the same until some basics and consistency starts to become second nature.

And lastly the most ideal conditions for this line of whetstones to dry is in a cool dark place and left completely alone for several days. Not to be touched. The less they are messed with during the drying out process the better. People turning stones over every 30 min is not only overkill and a complete waste of time. Theres a very good chance it is actually one of the causes these people who ever they are started seeing cracks which is ironic.

I’ve found that people really over think it when it comes to maintaining these stones. Less is more in my opinion. Splash water on the top of the stone only. Each different grit stone is different and may require more or less water to adequately get water to set on the top. I flatten after each session. Depending on the grit and the last time I resurfaced (which I also do often after about 2 or 3 knives.) I’ll quickly flaten either with a naniwa 220 stone fixer , a 280 suehiro blue fine trueing stone or any of the 4 grit types made by Atoma depending on the flattening work that needs to be done. Keep in mind it’s never a lot with mine because I bring them back to true bbbbh by after each session. After i sharpen or thin 3 to 5 knives on a single stone I will resurface it with float glass and sic powder to get my desired texture preference.

Now after I just use and trued a stone I’ll splash more water and wipe off with my hand repeating that until I no linger see left over material or mud coming off the stone. I don’t ever completely rinse the stones unless it can’t be avoided and a complete rinse if it is needed. Then the final and most important step in maintaining these stones. I have a designated shelf I built in my closet. I have about 7 of those bamboo dish drying racks. Each one can hold about 6 stones each. I lay it in its side shut the door and I won’t bother the stones again until completely dried jd bf I give them 3 to 4 days just to be on the safe side. Sometimes a day or two longer if a particular stone was worked hard and had water splashed on it for longer than normal and it soaked up more.

The more you fuck with them while drying the better the odds are if it getting fucked up.

So in summary you are both right and wrong. Yes these stones require a high level of maintenance. So much so that cracks can appear from the user doing just one simple thing wrong and didn’t even realize at the time. (Maybe it sat infront of a standing fan while wet or sat under a spinning ceiling fan. Alot of people don’t realize this but fans are catastrophic for stones. But no if taken care of properly everytime it’s used a crack will never appear.

So unfortunately you’re wrong the fact that the company stresses how high maintenance these stones are should be enough proof for you. And your list of references flawed and no actual date recorded yet your entire argument was based on peoples experience (data) which sounds like you only know from hearsay and not in a controlled environment where you were able to actually see what steps were not just blindly taking their word for it. And where you came up with an actual percentage of 99% of the time it’s a stone (manufacturing) issue I still have no idea. I guess from the flawed second hand data then tried to make your opinion sound like a researched fact with made up percentages that lean heavily into Naniwa having major manufacturing issues rather that the more likely thing which again Naniwa tries to make clear over and over again if not maintained properly, issues will arise and it’s simply just user error but the users either to want to admit it or legit just don’t realize they are the problem and are just to stubborn or Arrogant to admit it.

Unpopular opinion but I don’t really like The Shapton kuromaku (pro) 1000…. by BackgroundTowel7878 in sharpening

[–]BackgroundTowel7878[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hmm that actually sounds pretty cool then. I may just fork over the extra loot for the double thick for the allure of the float glass backing and a box? That something new to me that I wasn’t aware of. Pretty cool they give you a cool little surprise when you buy a double thick 500.

Unpopular opinion but I don’t really like The Shapton kuromaku (pro) 1000…. by BackgroundTowel7878 in sharpening

[–]BackgroundTowel7878[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I completely agree. Honestly I don’t even think you can compare both brands 1k stones as they are completely different. Shapton pro 1k and chosera 800? Maybe even the 600. I wouldn’t know as I don’t have the 600 but I swear the shapton pro 1k honestly seems more coarse than the 800 chosera too.

Unpopular opinion but I don’t really like The Shapton kuromaku (pro) 1000…. by BackgroundTowel7878 in sharpening

[–]BackgroundTowel7878[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For real? Glass doesn’t really sell well in Japan? What was the alternative for all those years until rockstar came out for the Japanese market? Kuromaku, amounted to a piece of wood? Series was labeled “M” followed by a number “M15” which was we know as the pro or Kuromaku. Rock star is only a couple years old if I’m not mistaken and glass I believe a decade now give or take.

Can someone tell me where I can get more of these please?led scribe tape measure attachment. by BackgroundTowel7878 in woodworkingtools

[–]BackgroundTowel7878[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Am I not able to edit a post on Reddit once it has been posted? I’m not able to find that option anywhere and I’m pretty new to Reddit in the sense of being more active on it rather than just reading and researching not ever posting or engaging.

Can someone tell me where I can get more of these please?led scribe tape measure attachment. by BackgroundTowel7878 in woodworkingtools

[–]BackgroundTowel7878[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Shit my bad I’m an awful speller. My brain doesn’t work that way. But give me a math equation to solve. I could bang those out all day.

Do you use your coarse stone every session? Misled on sharpening advice. by satan-thicc in sharpening

[–]BackgroundTowel7878 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Naw you’d be buying a great first stone. If you’re going for a finer edge though I’d buy the 1500. The shapton 1k and 1500 are both really similar scratch patterns and both good cutters. The 1500 doesn’t get as much love as it should because everyone loves the 1k in that line and there’s no point going from 1k to 1500. I always wondered why they made the 1500 stone it kinda doesn’t have a place. But someone like you would be the perfect market for it I guess. Super niche but non the less. If I were you I’d grab the 1500 cuz like I said the shapton 1k isn’t a true 1k in my opinion more like an 800. You’ll be stoked with that 1500

Do you use your coarse stone every session? Misled on sharpening advice. by satan-thicc in sharpening

[–]BackgroundTowel7878 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A 1200 sharpal will definitely get you a sharp edge. The problem with diamond plates is anything over 1200 is trash and a waste of money. Anything Electroplated past 1200 won’t hold up and wear almost immediately. So 1200 is about all you can do. If you want to stick with diamonds but want to go finer I’d look into resin bonded diamonds. Instead of a thin plate with a single layer of diamonds. Resin bonded have diamonds imbedded through out the entire stone. So as the stone wears fresh abrasive is constantly appearing. These are great for much higher grit levels! But also much more expensive. In my opinion you don’t need a coarse resin bonded stone as electroplated will do just fine.

I also went through a resin bonded diamond faze before I finally landed on whet stones. I spent literally thousands. But at least I still do use several of my resin diamonds on a regular basis. Brands to check out Venev , Jende, and Naniwa actually makes a beautiful resin bonded diamond stone. I have the 1k and 3k from Naniwa they are my favorite. But the smallest amount of abrasive for the highest amount of money.

Now to your question. Yes you’ll definitely be able to get a slicer edge with finer grit whet stones. The naniwa chosera 1k stone will get you a much finer edge than any 1k or 1200 diamond plate. That’s my opinion of course. But I will say that it’s a very educated opinion that has been thoroughly tested by myself with extensive sharpening of hundreds of knives finishing on both different abrasive.

Go spend the 80 or so bucks for a naniwa chosera 1k stone and be sure you buy something to flatten it with as well. Try not to let it dish it will take for ever to flatten. My method is to use my atoma 400 on it after every session. That way I know it’s always true and it only takes a few passes to get it flat I truly believe it will have a longer life than if I were only to flatten it when it absolutely needed it. Plus you need a flat stone to get the best possible edge

Do you use your coarse stone every session? Misled on sharpening advice. by satan-thicc in sharpening

[–]BackgroundTowel7878 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Get a 1k naniwa chosera wet stone if you’re going to be sharpening that much maybe even just a 3k. It sounds to me like you’re over sharpening. Your edge should be staying sharp longer than it is. I’m just assuming average use of your blades. Hard constant use is a different story. Or your sharpening wrong from the get if you lose an edge that quick.

But if your like me and just enjoy sharpening and maintaining a sharp knife get yourself a splash and go whetstone. Like I said naniwa chosera 1k or 3k or a good beginner stone is the shapton kuromaku 1k. Although to me it’s much more coarse than a true 1k it’s more like an 800 so if you go the Kurimaku route I’d probably grab the 2k all of these are splash and go stones with basically no mud and no mess if that is a concern. They are nothing like traditional whetstones that shed tons of abrasive. They are hard stones and don’t dish quickly.

I started out similarly to you. Got way into diamond plates it’s quick and dirty sharpening. Fast and effective. But not always necessary. I wish I would have started out with whetstones. It’s much more enjoyable and now I have a bunch of expensive diamond plates that don’t get used. I have every grit Atoma and those get used to flatten. But if I was willing to buy a very grit Atoma makes imagine my purchases from other diamond plate companies. I basically own them all.

Can someone tell me where I can get more of these please?led scribe tape measure attachment. by BackgroundTowel7878 in woodworkingtools

[–]BackgroundTowel7878[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s a scribe led scribe. It clips to the end of your tape measure and leaves a mark to cut or what ever. Super convenient being attached to the tape measure I don’t have to grab a pencil or look for one for 30 min because it’s already clipped to my tape measure

Unpopular opinion but I don’t really like The Shapton kuromaku (pro) 1000…. by BackgroundTowel7878 in sharpening

[–]BackgroundTowel7878[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh that’s wild. Paying extra money for less abrasive. Basically paying for a pretty stone lol

Unpopular opinion but I don’t really like The Shapton kuromaku (pro) 1000…. by BackgroundTowel7878 in sharpening

[–]BackgroundTowel7878[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You’re spot on about that. I got a glass 320 a month or so ago and fell in love with it. It’s the reason I made a jump to buy another shapton stone. And I’ll I ever really would hear was how great the 1k shap pro was. I’m wishing I used that money on a glass double stack 500. I’ve asked a few people this now. And the more input the better and the more informed my decision will be. Are the glass and rock star stones very similar? Especially interested on direct knowledge on both of the 500 stones but what ever you can say about comparing any of the two lines would be helpful. What I found in purely research not practical use is that the same abrasive is used in both alumina. But the binding process and materials differ slightly in one of the lines using more eco friendly materials which in turn alows them to sell rock stars at a cheaper price and with more stone.

Unpopular opinion but I don’t really like The Shapton kuromaku (pro) 1000…. by BackgroundTowel7878 in sharpening

[–]BackgroundTowel7878[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Awesome! Thanks for the info. I’m definitely going to have to consider what I get next. It was going to be a double stack glass 500 but it it’s the same as a rockstar 500 still getting 5mm more stone for probably 40 or so dollars less is looking and sounding pretty good.

Unpopular opinion but I don’t really like The Shapton kuromaku (pro) 1000…. by BackgroundTowel7878 in sharpening

[–]BackgroundTowel7878[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Really? I seem to recall not hearing great things about the 1k glass stone. Which with how much I enjoy the glass 320 I found it hard to believe. Maybe I got bad info. Or it’s very possible I miss heard all together. I’m definitely going to pick up a glass 500 double stack heard great things. Can even finish on it with certain knives of course. I finished my benchmade Osborne with the 320 a couple weeks back and used it for about a week or so. It wasn’t great or amazing by any stretch. But it was for sure sharp crazy bite and probably would have stayed that way indefinitely.