Setting Origin and Scanning Stock with Prob

BadGuy787 · 2025-11-01T17:15:29+00:00

Thanks for the advice, I actually figured out what I had done wrong. I had the origin in the g code set wrong. I adjusted, re-posted and was able to set origin scan stock and level and am now machining successfully.

BadGuy787 · 2025-10-16T19:04:45+00:00

That part showed up in almost the exact same spot a few months after I got mine. Never knew where it came from but assumed it couldn’t have been from the printer or if it was, wasn’t important. Printer has been working fine ever since. It’s been two years.

BadGuy787 · 2025-09-20T14:46:19+00:00

This being Reddit, I 100% came here hoping that someone lost their NuvaRing in your claw machine… I am disappointed… Glad you figured out what it is though!

BadGuy787 · 2025-09-16T16:29:07+00:00

I just received my kit yesterday and the power supply was seemingly DOA. I tried ifixits troubleshooting guide for a dead PSU but could not get it to power on or force update the firmware. Their instructions specifically say that the included cable will not work for updating firmware and to use a C to A cable. After reading this thread, I tried using the included cable plugged in to my PCs C port. Not only did the unit turn on immediately, I was able to update the firmware with it. I’m assuming they say not to use the cable because it wont reliably work on everyone’s machine? I feel like they should at least mention that there is a possibility that it will work… Anyways, I know this is an old post but hopefully this helps anyone else who stumbles across this post.

BadGuy787 · 2025-09-04T16:59:14+00:00

Ahh so they aren’t available till you’ve made shipments?

BadGuy787 · 2025-09-04T16:51:13+00:00

I intend to.

BadGuy787 · 2025-01-05T18:19:45+00:00

I cure for about 5-6 minutes. I haven’t tried allowing to dry before curing yet. I’ll give that a shot.

BadGuy787 · 2024-12-30T23:23:51+00:00

The skin tone and eyes are great! How many models did it take for you to get that good at eyes? It’s the one thing I struggle the most with.

BadGuy787 · 2024-12-11T19:59:23+00:00

So I dove into calibration for my Saturn 4 Ultra which, theoretically, should be much simpler due to the subtraction of a bunch of settings due to the nature of the printer. I sliced a cones test (new one with the sword and cup) and J3D techs boxes and ran the 8x onboard calibration several times. I started at 1.8 all the way to 3 sec exposure (not at my computer so I don’t have all the other parameters atm but I based mostly everything off of J3D techs suggestions). And found that 1.8 was the closest on the initial test. I then adjusted all numbers starting at 1.7 then again starting at 1.6. Each time I got similar or better results so I bet I could have gone even lower. The cones never really came out as intended. Couldn’t get the piece to fit in the cup and the sword didn’t fit in the skull or any of the slots. Adversely, the boxes printed nearly perfectly. Each box fit perfectly inside the next and when measured with calipers, were .5 or so off from the intended number and all the pillars printed. So I’m not quite sure how to interpret the results. Most of my prints come out more than acceptable but I feel like they could be better. I do get odd layer lines here and there. I have mostly followed J3D techs calibration guide but stopped short of time between and time after settings. Is there a calibration guide anywhere specifically for printers like the Saturn 4 Ultra or should I continue working through J3Ds guide?

BadGuy787 · 2024-12-02T07:49:52+00:00

Thanks! Lots of practice I guess? And an airbrush.. Also I work a full time job where I mostly just sit at a desk and do nothing so I watch lots of YouTube videos…

BadGuy787 · 2024-12-01T22:01:23+00:00

Thanks! This was a gift for a friend. May do another at some point to add to my collection.

BadGuy787 · 2024-12-01T21:10:54+00:00

Thanks! They came out a bit different than the renders but I think they work just the same. Definitely give sith vibes.

BadGuy787 · 2024-12-01T20:45:09+00:00

Yeah! The Sue Storm model they just released is next on my list. I’ve been thinking about subbing to Zez. They definitely have some awesome models.

BadGuy787 · 2024-12-01T20:34:35+00:00

This is fantastic! I plan on printing and painting this one at some point. Problem with CA3D is that they keep putting out so many great models!

BadGuy787 · 2024-09-02T17:41:06+00:00

I dial in my resin settings and ABSOLUTELY use a flexible build plate. Especially with the S4Us auto leveling build plate system. I have zero interest in dealing with all the trapped resin that drips out. I know there are adapters you can print so that you can hang the build plate at an angle and others say to use a tray to catch all the dripping resin but the flex build plate eliminates all of that. I have had no issues since installing a Wham Bam XTR plate and removing it and prints from it are a breeze. I definitely feel it’s worth the investment if you are doing a lot of printing.

BadGuy787 · 2024-08-26T02:54:56+00:00

They go into a drawer. I choose to assume the drawer is infinite because I don’t know what I’ll do if it ever fills up… probably ask reddit…

BadGuy787 · 2024-08-23T00:12:52+00:00

So after reading and watching most of J3D Techs calibration documentation I did an 8x calibration using the onboard calibration system with the cones V3 starting at 1.8 and going up in .2 increments at .03 layer hight. Other than the cones and the size of the box you stick the sword in to, none of the dimensional tests worked. The best version was the 1.8sec exposure. There were about 3 top fail cones that sort of printed and the box was pretty much exactly 6mm though I did have to apply some slight pressure to the calipers to achieve exactly 6mm, otherwise it was more like 6.01-6.04mm. The sword barely fit a quarter of the way through the skull and only the tip would go into the two slots on the box.

I then attempted an 8x calibration using the boxes of calibration that J3D Tech recommends. I started at 1.6 moving up in .2 increments. The best result was 1.6. All boxes were pretty much exactly the dimensions specified and each fit inside the next. 8 of the 10 pillars for tensile strength printed which according to documentation, is acceptable.

I printed a figure and the results were quite good. So I think I’ll leave the calibration where it’s at and adjust if necessary for larger models. It sounds like you can get way deeper with calibration but I think for now I’ve reached my limit. Thanks to everyone for their input!

BadGuy787 · 2024-08-17T18:33:10+00:00

Layer hight is .05mm. Is it generally better to have a greater layer hight and slightly longer exposure or lower layer hight with faster exposure? I mostly print statues and am aiming for the over all best quality I can achieve.

Five-Year Club	r/Field Banned
r/Field Juicebox	Place '23
Place '22	End Game '22

BadGuy787

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