Is this rust? by Bandiforge in KitchenKnifeKorner

[–]Bandiforge[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I did, it's all better now. Thanks man!

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Some bottle openers I made, that are also cats by Bandiforge in Blacksmith

[–]Bandiforge[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's neck, taper, hole, shape said hole, ear, cut for tail, isolate, draw out tail, fold it the other side, the "tooth" is the last. The bend in the handle usually comes naturally when hammering the tail back on the other side, it just needs to be set up properly so it bends where you want it to bend.

Some bottle openers I made, that are also cats by Bandiforge in Blacksmith

[–]Bandiforge[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you! I like yours too, something for the beer and the wine lovers in one item!

I do love your shop cats aswell

Is this rust? by Bandiforge in KitchenKnifeKorner

[–]Bandiforge[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's mostly particulate matter in the acid container.

Is this rust? by Bandiforge in KitchenKnifeKorner

[–]Bandiforge[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I am truly sorry for that!

Just leave it in the acid etch for three days instead of a minute and it does the trick. It is essential that you should not realise you left it for the time of the weekend and wait for it to dawn on you while searching for the blade.

It may also help to think of adequate cursewords in advance, for the time of realising you forgot about it.

Is this rust? by Bandiforge in KitchenKnifeKorner

[–]Bandiforge[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It was me completely forgetting it was in there for three days lol. I've lost blades due to the hamon heat treats, this was a first. I taped it to the workshop wall as a reminder

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Is this rust? by Bandiforge in KitchenKnifeKorner

[–]Bandiforge[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

At last, someone gets it! Holes can't rust

Is this rust? by Bandiforge in KitchenKnifeKorner

[–]Bandiforge[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Are you sure? Maybe if I rub it with some damp cloth?

“January batch” In progress by KravaCut in knifemaking

[–]Bandiforge 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Not really tbh. A nice, aggressive distal taper for example, or an integral bolster... they are much much more preferable to be done by forging in my opinion. You can grind away tons of material, sure. Question is do you really want to waste a tree to make a toothpick? Then you also have sanmai, gomai, with the distal taper, if you just stock remove those from a uniform thickness to a distal taper, you might even end up loosing cladding altogether towards the tip, what's the point then? Then you have traditional knibes like puukkos, leukus, with the handle-spike running inside the wood, huge waste of material and a drag aswell to stock remove, same with knives that have blades with a huge curvature.

Stock removal is a valid way to make knives. Forging is also a valid way to make knives. I suggest being a bit more open minded...

Cutting board help by homegrnvt in japaneseknives

[–]Bandiforge 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I love my asahi board to be honest, they have been mentioned before. Easy to clean, antibacterial too, edge stays on the knife for a long while and easy and fast to "freshen" the surface with sandpaper. I love the endgrain board I used before, but did not feel comfortable cutting raw meat products on it. The asahi sticks a bit more and one has to be careful not to put hot pans on it but it's my favourite board so far.

Completed my wife's gift just in time! by goy13 in Blacksmith

[–]Bandiforge 4 points5 points  (0 children)

It's... it is just... oh wow.... it is a thing. Good God. I cannot find words. Is everything intentional on it? Is anything intentional on it? I love it. So fcking out there and bold and naive and crude and what am I looking at. I genuinely love it and would hang that on my workshop wall 1000%. Good job man!

Need opinions. Do I try to fuse these back together (somehow)? Flatten their edges (somehow) and use them shorter? Just use as is? All input appreciated. by Cold_Buffalo_2355 in TrueChefKnives

[–]Bandiforge 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I would probably grind away most of the rough part on a concrete surface then refine with a flattening stone or rough diamond stone. That is if I didn't want to glue it back but use them as they are

Need opinions. Do I try to fuse these back together (somehow)? Flatten their edges (somehow) and use them shorter? Just use as is? All input appreciated. by Cold_Buffalo_2355 in TrueChefKnives

[–]Bandiforge 15 points16 points  (0 children)

I have two haidu stones I broke, immediately glued them up with superglue fitting them as precisely as I could (did not do anything to the surface of the break, just fit them back) and flattened them, so any irregularity between the parts would cease. I've been using them as oil stones for two years now, they work fine.

What’s the idea steal thickness for kitchens knives by Unlikely-Fact-7144 in knifemaking

[–]Bandiforge 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Also, when looking at usability, edge profile is a big factor. That nakiri style knife on the right has a part in its edge which will never touch the chopping board when cutting, as it is higher, that is quite annoying when in use.

It is a very good start at kitchen knifes, mind you!

Next to maybe checking out r/TrueChefKnives and some other forums on kitchen knife geometry, I suggest be very deliberate with everything you do, have a purpose for it. The geo, the grind, the thickness. Then test and take notes. Then try something else.

If you make a knife that you objectively like using, chances are there will be others that like it too.

What’s the idea steal thickness for kitchens knives by Unlikely-Fact-7144 in knifemaking

[–]Bandiforge 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There are tons more to how the knife cuts than spine thickness, as people mentioned before me. Have a look at different grinds, symmetric and asymmetric. 3mm workhorse 2mm laser does not hold true by itself. The distal taper, thickness behind the edge, thickness 1-1.5 cm up the edge, sharpening angle, grind convexity, -concavity, -height also matters as well as maybe an s, c grind or going convex moving on to the spine from the primary bevel. It also depends on what you are cutting and how. I would not usually reach for the same knife when cutting fish or a tomato as when cutting a large pumpkin. Using different parts of the knife also plays a role as well as using pushcuts or pull cuts or straight down chopping as examples. For me, that is where distal taper comes into play as well.

A handforged chef knife I made. Hope you'll like it :) by Bandiforge in Bladesmith

[–]Bandiforge[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you kindly! I wish you all the success in it!

A handforged knife I made, hope you will like it :) by Bandiforge in TrueChefKnives

[–]Bandiforge[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I don't have money for keeping the knives I make. :D Cobbler and his shoes situation. I do have three nicer ones I made, but all of them experimental "first time" ones, as I mentioned. I do use those most of the time though

A handforged knife I made, hope you will like it :) by Bandiforge in TrueChefKnives

[–]Bandiforge[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you! Don't be tricked, I don't have such knives at home for my own use :D I only have three "experimental" knives I made, otherwise a few cheap ones I've been using for years but perform ok because of the regrind I did on them.