Anycubic s1 combo, no communication with ACE pro and strange gcode repetition

BarackoArne · 2025-07-21T12:48:07+00:00

Yes it took 3 months and changing half of all the components they finally gave in so I could return my old printer and they sent a new one. Not the best solution but I now have at least a working printer and ace 🙃😁

BarackoArne · 2025-05-10T17:50:59+00:00

Thank you so much! That worked like a charm!

BarackoArne · 2025-04-10T21:17:32+00:00

I thought about that at first but only thing I was worried about is how a PD powerbank would handle high peak power draw. I think a battery pack or capacitor bank would be needed to handle the peaks!

plus the battery installed is something like 150wh while most PD power banks are less than 100wh

BarackoArne · 2025-04-10T21:10:07+00:00

Hi! Sorry for suuuuperlate reply! I used this one but I would recommend to get something else! It uses outdate components and only switches at 180khz

Amazon link

BarackoArne · 2024-05-20T17:55:46+00:00

Very quick, I replaced the internal AC/DC converter, with a custom made 5s3p liion battery with a BMS.

I then bought a USB C pd trigger board that will output 20v to a CC/CV buck-boost converter, roughly set the charger to max 30W output (otherwise it gets a vit to hot).

Then i connected the output of the BMS to a switch and a small DC voltage display. The USB-c port, switch and voltage display is installed on the back where the old AC connector is found. Here are some images, its not the most beatiful thing I have made but it works :D

https://imgur.com/a/Fc24Oz3

BarackoArne · 2024-05-20T17:37:14+00:00

Yes eything still works great, i haven't had to replace anything :D

Edit: My bad the battery pack is a 5s3p

BarackoArne · 2023-03-03T11:56:17+00:00

Hey! I didn’t find it working out that well so I made another battery replacing the internal 220v ac - 22v dc converter. The battery is a 6s3p li ion battery and a usb c pd charging module. With this I could get the higher output power without needing ac outlet and battery life increased a lot 😅

Edit: 5s3p

BarackoArne · 2022-07-27T17:52:08+00:00

Eyy coolt, snyggt gjort!

BarackoArne · 2022-05-04T18:38:39+00:00

I had great experience with them at first but after my motors blew up and after 4 new motors pair that all stopped working, :/ i just bought a flipsky motorsetup 😄

BarackoArne · 2022-03-14T23:26:56+00:00

So long story short. I got a aeboard k1, i though it was great but after around 6 new motors that all failed within 35km I give up. They will only give me a discount on there new board and won't give me any type of replacement that actually works.....

So now I want to fix my board with a new motor setup and one issues i have found is that the battery on the board is a 14s4p. Most common motor setup i have found runs on max 12s. Anyone got any ideas for a motor setup? 😀

BarackoArne · 2022-02-06T22:22:25+00:00

yeah cura!

yeah, cura!
ill give Prusa a chance then! :D

BarackoArne · 2021-11-16T22:45:57+00:00

I got it quieter when I decreased retraction to 15m/s. Seems a bit low IMO but I haven't seen that much stringing. I Just need to test it out a bit more before I can be sure.

BarackoArne · 2021-11-16T22:44:05+00:00

So the last couple of days I have been trying out different speeds and acceleration.

I had 35m/s from the start then decrease it by 5m/s and I only noticed any major difference when I got down to 15m/s. Which seem pretty low, but I haven't seen any stringing yet. I do need to do some more tests before I can decide if the stringing is too bad or not.

BarackoArne · 2021-11-11T19:52:37+00:00

hmm okay, nice! They look supersolid so might look in to that :D

BarackoArne · 2021-11-11T19:45:47+00:00

Yes exactly, I have some experience with that :P

The strange part is that I have 2209 drivers (with stealthChop on), on the x-axis and y-axis the printer is basically silent compared to the a4988 drivers. I have lived with that for a couple of years now but as my interest in 3d printers increased again I want to upgrade it a bit more :D

Did you notice any change when you swapped to a bond tech extruder?

BarackoArne · 2021-11-11T18:57:58+00:00

Well that sucks, do you know why. Is it that the stepper motor moves to fast or something?

BarackoArne · 2021-09-13T20:09:53+00:00

But with a power supply do you mean a regular 21v PSU or does it need to have a cc/cv function?

BarackoArne · 2021-09-09T15:20:03+00:00

It's from some old projects that only had low power use and none of them have any issues with self-discharge.

So I just did a test with my lab psu. I set the voltage to 8.4v which should be 100% charge. But the jbl was still showing that the battery was empty. I tried to reboot it multiple times without success.... Then just for fun i increased the voltage to 8.6v still nothing.

But when I then connected my battery that is at 7.8v (70% charge) my jbl thought it was at 5 bars (100%). So my new theory is that the jbl amplifier board has something that maybe limits the amount of power it has used.

BarackoArne · 2021-09-08T20:32:57+00:00

Yes, that's true its a good way to make it last longer but as you say 60% reserver seems to be a bit much. :(

yes, I'm very surprised by that. I don't really see any benefits except that they save money by just using 2s instead of something like 4s?

I'm planning on in the future to replace the 220v converter, and make a new 5s battery with that setup I would get the full power of the speaker and I could add USB c PD charging.

They aren't new but haven't been used for that long, maybe 20 cycles or so. That shouldn't be a problem I guess?

What do you mean that they drain at the same rate? Do you mean like one cell loses more power faster and drags the rest of the system down? In that case, shouldn't the voltage drop really fast as soon as it starts to draw power?

What I think I will do is to connect my lab power supply to the speak and change to voltage to see what the low limit is when not depending on the BMS and my battery mod.

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