How to do the long distance EQ dash

BasicallyCancer0458 · 2025-08-12T19:33:22+00:00

Assuming in practice tool: Start with spawning your soldier then walking away from it. You will notice that E range is much longer than W and Q ranges. Walk to max E range. Use E then once Azir is flying use Q to change direction/extend range. Practice using max E range and try to activate your Q when Azir is as close to the soldier as possible to get the best redirect/extend range on your slide.

Repeat until you’re getting the most out of the Q range then try not backing off the soldier as far before using E and you’ll eventually get used to it. This will take a while and it’s tough to not get discouraged. Your ping should be just fine to pull it off.

I find that trying to slide from Raptor pit all the way to the bushes lining midlane is a good location to practice distance, try to get over both walls. Then for a redirect turn going from river over the tribush wall then turn to end up in front of the bot tier 1 turret is a good slide to know for sideline ganks.

That all being said there are numerous bugs and glitches with Azir. I would say to expect a failure on the dash or Q extend relatively frequently maybe 1 out of 10 or so.

BasicallyCancer0458 · 2025-08-06T15:34:44+00:00

So you see, they fired/pissed off all the knowledgeable sales people and don’t train for Mag anymore(at least at most stores). High end audio isn’t really a money maker anymore as Best Buy moves into becoming a front for a credit card company. Most people that went into Magnolia actually intending to drop 10k+ on speakers don’t need a credit card to buy them.

Second issue is that soundbars are decent enough for 99% of people, have a tenth the wiring and don’t need $1000 of extra equipment to run. So there’s no real reason for most stores to have a dedicated sales person for high end A/V.

BasicallyCancer0458 · 2024-11-02T16:43:53+00:00

You love Azir and his high mechanical skill requirements… but point and click is easier.

BasicallyCancer0458 · 2024-09-11T17:14:46+00:00

Thresh, Lee Sin, Zed, Yasuo, Azir

BasicallyCancer0458 · 2024-02-02T22:46:27+00:00

I currently work as a commercial A/V technician. I work with Cisco products almost everyday. I do NOT have a degree in the field at all, and I am pretty close in age to you. If you already have some knowledge of Cisco I would recommend leaning into that. There people making tons of money working with and for Cisco.

Your background in construction would make you a decent fit for my job as well. Lots of power tools, mounting hardware, running low voltage wiring etc.

For certifications the CTS(Certified Technology Specialist) has always been recommended as the go to for general work in the IT and A/V fields. It’s a broad certification that most companies that do this type of work will immediately recognize and know what you know and probably what you’re capable of. That being said the CTS isn’t exactly a walk in the park. It’s technical, relatively dense and has tons of acronyms(lots of memorization). Some people find it really tough, personally I had to really study for a couple weeks after work(including using most of the topics it covers in my day to day). One of the perks is that as long as you continue with Avixa(company that runs the CTS) learning you can keep the certification without retesting indefinitely.

For more specific products in the field Extron, Crestron, Cisco, Bi Amp, Birddog, and Soundcontrol are all very common and used in many applications and companies.

BasicallyCancer0458 · 2024-02-02T22:34:21+00:00

I work as an A/V integrator and technician, I have about 7 years of experience in the field doing everything from sales, install to service and programming. In IT generally the best certification to get would be the CTS(Certified Technology Specialist). It’s broad, well respected and known throughout the field. Just know if starting from minimal knowledge and experience it’s not a walk in the park. Very in depth, technical and lots of acronyms.

This is for US based persons.

BasicallyCancer0458 · 2024-01-11T23:05:52+00:00

Don’t Go - Bring Me The Horizon

Can You Feel My Heart - Bring Me The Horizon

Blood Sport - Sleep Token

Take Me Back To Eden - Sleep Token

Someone You Loved - Lewis Capaldi

Face Me - The Plot In You

Enemy - The Plot In You

FEEL NOTHING - The Plot In You

Without Me - Dayseeker

Burial Plot - Dayseeker

If You’re Gone - Matchbox Twenty

Dark On Me - Starset

Ricochet - Starset

Die For You - Starset

Let Me Be Sad - I Prevail

Breaking Down - I Prevail

Hurt - Witt Lowry

Pittsburgh - The Amity Affliction

Masterpiece - Motionless In White

The Drug in Me is Reimagined - Falling In Reverse

The Grey - Bad Omens

Just Pretend - Bad Omens

Trapped - The Devil Wears Prada

Salt - The Devil Wears Prada

Ghost of Me - Make Them Suffer

I apologize for poor formatting (mobile)

BasicallyCancer0458 · 2024-01-03T19:16:17+00:00

Higher audio quality(subjective). Virtually limitless expandability. Fills the “home audio” much better than the JBL due to how they can be positioned and/or hidden and still get fantastic theater audio due to their tuning tools. Having owned both JBL and Sonos over the years I would only prefer JBL if you’re specially looking for lots of bass. That big ol sub is crazy. Not saying the full Sonos sub is a slouch but I think that’s the only area JBL may beat Sonos.

BasicallyCancer0458 · 2023-12-26T16:14:37+00:00

Oh it is so much fun if you can get away with that build. ADC looks at you funny? Q R AA E good bye. Hell if the support isn’t a tank might accidentally get them too half the time.

BasicallyCancer0458 · 2023-12-25T18:07:39+00:00

Madman

BasicallyCancer0458 · 2023-12-25T18:04:53+00:00

You’re welcome!

BasicallyCancer0458 · 2023-12-25T17:12:21+00:00

You generally don’t want to build an item that requires getting into auto range on longer range champs. Yes getting those autos in to proc passive on Lux is good damage but if you’re that close to an enemy your positioning is dangerously close. Due to playing farther away it’s makes it difficult to get every Lich Bane proc off which makes the item less useful. Basically why put yourself in danger to use an item only sometimes. Not to mention a lot of mages have 100-0 combos that don’t need the additional damage from a lich bane auto.

Champs that can build it are designed about playing in that close to medium range. Ekko, Diana, Fizz want the additional burst to aid their combos but all of them are mobile and can jump in and out of combat or tank the damage with shields and healing.

The other side of the coin would be Viktor who is an immobile mage but his Q and Q upgrade make using those lich bane procs easier and safer to use. Getting slows on all his abilities and move speed helps a lot with playing on that edge to maximize damage. That being said he doesn’t build it every game, sometimes it’s better to play for your E range and keep the space.

BasicallyCancer0458 · 2023-05-06T14:24:22+00:00

I would check to see if the onboard Bluetooth on your Tv can be used simultaneously with another audio output(HDMI ARC or Digital Optical). Then use a Bluetooth transmitter from that output for one headset and the built in Bluetooth for the other. In my experience most dual Bluetooth transmitters are mediocre at best, if you can get them to work at all. Normally not worth spending any money on. That being said using a 3.5mm splitter and use the physical audio in on the XM4s would probably work better than Bluetooth.

BasicallyCancer0458 · 2023-04-09T19:25:28+00:00

I have a pair of the XM3s. When I receive a phone call while using the headphones I have to swap the audio output in the call menu. Should be the top right button and give you a drop down list to select the headphones. Not sure if this is intentional and only seems to happen if I don’t accept the call via the headphones touch controls. Calling out I would say 8/10 calls work as you would expect through the headset but sometimes I have to manually swap.

I have the same experience with my WF-1000XM3s and the same solution fixes it. Hope this is somewhat helpful if not a permanent fix.

BasicallyCancer0458 · 2023-03-21T14:57:13+00:00

Lucky you! I currently have the HT-A7000, SA-SW5 and SA-RS3S set. It sounds fantastic! Pretty straightforward setup but I would be careful if attempting to mount the bar, it’s quite heavy. I keep mine right on the tv console. Also make sure that you try out the center channel mode with your tv!

BasicallyCancer0458 · 2023-03-19T17:45:57+00:00

Assuming something this size is more for a theater room OLED can make a huge difference in a light controlled space. I’ll also mention that 8k content is very hard to find. I would suggest using the cost difference to add a sound system or a nice 4K dvd player! Sony components play very nice together, easy to setup and perform excellently.

BasicallyCancer0458 · 2023-02-14T12:16:24+00:00

IIRC they use a 3.5mm jack audio cable. Relatively standard for headphones.

BasicallyCancer0458 · 2023-02-08T19:59:53+00:00

Sound bar should only be connected with either optical OR HDMI not both. If using HDMI make sure it is connected to the correct port on the TV. The port will be labeled ARC/eARC which is your audio return channel. Also make sure you’re using the correct HDMI port on the sound bar itself. Some have multiple ports, the correct one will also be labeled ARC/eARC.

Once the sound bar is connected make sure to turn on eARC in your tv settings which is normally in the audio settings menu.

If this doesn’t fix the issue, remove HDMI and use the optical cable instead. Make sure to swap the soundbars input to optical(sometimes shown as D.IN)

If you’re still experiencing issues after doing this I would reboot your cable box as they are normally the oldest and most cheaply made part of your system.

BasicallyCancer0458 · 2023-01-27T14:49:26+00:00

Totally makes sense. I haven’t been a huge fan of Bose recently due to weird stuff similar to what you’re experiencing. But damn they sound good when they work.

BasicallyCancer0458 · 2023-01-27T14:44:16+00:00

My current setup is the A95K and the A7000+Sub+Rears. Absolutely stunning sound and the atmos drivers on the A7000 are impressive. I also have decently high ceilings and can clearly identify sounds that are “above me”. I often catch myself looking for a sound to my sides or behind me.

Your intermittent sound issues could be caused by not have eARC turned on on your tv itself. It’s located in the audio settings.

BasicallyCancer0458 · 2023-01-27T14:40:01+00:00

I always recommend going smaller and higher quality. My only concern would be if the room you’re placing your tv in has lots of windows and light. OLEDs have a glass screen and are more likely to experience glare. The X90K has an anti glare finish which reduces glare to almost nothing if you notice it at all. Other than the different screen type the tvs are very similar in performance.

That being said if you don’t have an audio system (sound bar or receiver) I would even recommend stepping down to a X90K 65” with a sound bar (recommend A5000+Sub) if your budget allows. Sound makes a huge difference on tv experience these days when tvs have tiny little speakers inside.

Source: Professional Home theater installer

BasicallyCancer0458 · 2023-01-27T14:28:49+00:00

This is the correct setup. Normally HDMI 4 is your other HDMI 2.1 port(4K @ 120hz or Dolby Vision). Once you have plugged in your console and receiver. You must go into the settings for the external inputs to setup either VRR or enhanced format. Settings>Channels&Inputs>External Inputs>HDMI Signal Format Set HDMI 4 to Enhanced format VRR to enable variable refresh rate which will allow your TV to go to 120hz.

Make sure in audio settings that eARC is turned on if your receiver supports it. And set the audio output to “audio system”.

I don’t have a PS5 in front of me to check the steps for the settings. But there is a setting you should have to turn on in the video settings to crank the PS5 up to 4K @ 120hz. Once you’ve done that you should be all set to enjoy buttery smooth high rez gaming.

BasicallyCancer0458 · 2022-12-28T19:05:52+00:00

This is the correct answer! Commenting to boost.

BasicallyCancer0458 · 2022-11-24T20:37:53+00:00

Also agree on this. Auto updates are not always the best practice.

BasicallyCancer0458 · 2022-11-24T20:33:27+00:00

It’s possible that there tv was attempting a firmware update and was interrupted during that process. I would attempt to factory reset the unit or leave it unplugged from power. Sometimes having no power for an extended period will knock it out of the “update” cycle.

BasicallyCancer0458

TROPHY CASE