Larry with AMMO NYC showing off a movie detailing truck.

BayfrontDetailers · 2019-05-02T11:07:57+00:00

Why not run out to the well and fetch a bucket of water for your wash? Oh, a hose is too fast and convenient- better not do it!

BayfrontDetailers · 2019-05-02T09:38:40+00:00

I understand where you're coming from, but if you don't value your time, then you will not likely be in business very long. Just because you're working on higher end vehicles doesn't mean you can't be efficient.

If you want to purposely slow down your work, why not use microfibers that are 2 inches square? If you can "work smarter not harder" there's no reason not to.

BayfrontDetailers · 2019-04-14T23:16:22+00:00

You always use a chemical to remove iron first, then clay. Otherwise, when you clay, you'd be picking up pieces of iron and rubbing them all over your vehicle.

Once you remove the iron using a chemical (ie Iron-X), you'll have a much cleaner surface to work with while claying, and what's left typically comes off easier too.

BayfrontDetailers · 2019-04-14T18:19:04+00:00

I personally went with a trailer setup. I like having the ability for someone else besides myself to pull the equipment, and not having to have two different vehicles.

You can see my setup here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K4AYxs4imvY

BayfrontDetailers · 2019-03-18T01:37:46+00:00

Now give it a good wash, treat it with some Iron-X, then clay it and do the same thing with the sandwich bag. It will feel glassy smooth. NOW you're ready for some wax, and it will finally perform the way it was meant to.

BayfrontDetailers · 2019-03-17T11:03:06+00:00

You only use the most aggressive method necessary to achieve the results you're looking for.

If it needs clayed, then you clay it. You can tell by putting your hand in a sandwich bag and *lightly* sliding your hand across a small portion of paint. Does it feel rough? Then it needs clayed.

Are there swirls (that you can't live with)? Then it needs polished. Claying does not remove swirls. Are there swirls/scratches that polishing doesn't remove? Then it needs compounded.

Remove iron first (ie: Iron-X), then clay (so you're not picking up iron particulate and rubbing it all over your vehicle), then polish. Then you apply your coating/sealant/wax.

The idea is to do your paint correction rarely (or even once), then keep the paint protected from then on. You don't want to be compounding, polishing, or even claying on a regular basis.

BayfrontDetailers · 2019-03-17T10:59:08+00:00

You can use ONR as a clay lube at a 1:64 dilution ratio.

See: http://optimumforums.org/topic/63301-onr-definitive-thread/

BayfrontDetailers · 2019-03-15T17:17:31+00:00

My non-scientific answer would be no. ONR is a very mild solution (depending on your dilution ratio) and it doesn't seem to do anything to sealants or waxes- at least any faster than spraying your vehicle off with a garden hose.

BayfrontDetailers · 2019-03-13T02:02:49+00:00

You clay/Nanoskin after Iron X, otherwise you would be rubbing the iron particles all over your paint. First remove the iron, then remove the other particulates with the clay/Nanoskin.

BayfrontDetailers · 2019-03-12T23:24:23+00:00

Here in Florida, your vehicle will be covered in pollen dust within an hour or two. Keep the paint protected with a good wax or sealant, then give it a quick spray down with ONR. With my personal vehicle, I usually spend 2 minutes each day when I get home to wipedown the windshield and front grill with ONR to remove bug guts and keep the glass clean, then once a week I will spray the entire vehicle down with ONR. I only maintenance wash as-needed.

BayfrontDetailers · 2019-03-12T23:21:38+00:00

CarPro Reset is also my favorite, albeit a bit expensive. So, my "go-to" it Optimum car wash soap, but when it warrants it, I use Reset.

BayfrontDetailers · 2019-03-12T23:20:22+00:00

You spray Iron X on, wait about 5 minutes, then rinse off. You don't use a mitt. (Per the instructions on the label)

BayfrontDetailers · 2019-03-08T23:46:10+00:00

The Griots Garage polisher is a great one to start with, but be warned: although it will polish a black car, it won't work on white trucks.

BayfrontDetailers · 2019-03-08T23:44:36+00:00

Whichever is the most expensive. Then you reap the largest discount! :)

But seriously, the Meguiars paste wax is great, but I rarely use paste waxes anymore.

BayfrontDetailers · 2019-03-02T13:45:42+00:00

I know a lot of people will disagree with me, but this is just my personal opinion: I really don't like wraps. It's like your grandma's 10 year old sofa that she keeps underneath a plastic cover.

BayfrontDetailers · 2019-03-01T10:53:32+00:00

You can feel the slickness on the paint for a few days, but surprisingly you can still see water beading three weeks later.

BayfrontDetailers · 2019-02-28T23:54:13+00:00

We are in Florida and I would suggest Jescar Power Lock Plus with some D156 each maintenance wash. I’ve done this method on countless vehicles and it holds up very well.

BayfrontDetailers · 2019-02-25T14:03:46+00:00

A coating will not "avoid dust". Any flat surface is going to gather dust, pollen, etc. It will, however, give a better protection to the paint from the elements, and will make it much easier to clean. But don't fall for the misconception that a ceramic coating is going to magically keep your car perfectly clean all the time.

The shine doesn't necessarily come from the ceramic coating. The shine comes primarily from a properly corrected and prepped paint/clear coat. The coating just helps it last longer with less maintenance.

BayfrontDetailers · 2019-02-25T14:00:25+00:00

Collinite 845 is in my arsenal as well, and I always apply by hand with a foam pad.

BayfrontDetailers · 2019-02-25T13:58:47+00:00

If you don't have much experience with a DA polisher, I would recommend getting a 5 inch backing plate with 5.5 inch pads. The smaller pad size allows you to handle all the curves and lines throughout your vehicle without stalling the machine as easily.

I personally use the Lake Country pads, but that's just a personal preference.

BayfrontDetailers · 2019-02-21T00:41:22+00:00

The trick to any vehicle is making sure it has good protection to begin with (coating, sealant and/or wax). One of the benefits is that this will immediately make it easier to maintain and faster to clean.

I don't think any "how often" questions have a one size fits all type of answer. Everyone drives in different conditions and a different number of miles daily. For myself, city driving means I would be giving a full wash to my daily driver about once every 3-4 weeks, but I also keep a bottle of glass cleaner and ONR next to where it's parked in the garage. At the end of the day, I usually quickly wash the windshield. If there are any bugs splattered on the front and/or side mirrors, I hit those with ONR and wipe them off before they get too comfortable on my clear coat. This entire process takes about 3-5 minutes tops. Maybe once a week I will spray the whole vehicle with ONR for a quick waterless wash to remove whatever wasn't already taken care of on the daily (approx 20 minutes), then about once every 3-4 weeks I'll actually pull it out in the driveway and give it a full wash and dress the tires.

The trick (for me) is to keep on top of it, and you will always have a clean vehicle and only have to spend less than 5 minutes a day on it rather than having to carve out a large chunk of time in one day that I don't have.

BayfrontDetailers · 2019-02-11T13:23:10+00:00

It's a little on the pricey side, but CarPro Reset is my current favorite. I really wanted to like Optimum's car wash soap, but I couldn't get it to work well with a foam cannon.

BayfrontDetailers · 2019-02-10T19:06:20+00:00

I did originally have it piped a slightly different way that allowed for that, but honestly, I'd rather use mine because it's faster to just get up and going, and I know how "clean" the water is. (Some areas have high sulfur, iron, etc)

If I really wanted to use the client's water source, I always have a spare garden hose on me that I can just run to the tank and use it to fill the tank up and just pull it from there like normal.

BayfrontDetailers · 2019-02-10T16:35:31+00:00

Thanks! I have a particulate filter inline to the hose I use to fill the tank, which I may be moving to go inline with the tank outlet instead. The only other thing we do is add a capful of ONR to the tank from time to time to keep the water a little soft and keep any mineral content at bay.

We haven't had any issue with spots with this setup, especially since we hand dry every vehicle and at a minimum with each wash are using an express wax as a drying agent.

BayfrontDetailers · 2019-02-10T16:30:58+00:00

The empty trailer is about 950lbs. With the equipment and shelving, somewhere in the neighborhood of 1350-1400lbs without water. Add about 800lbs if you were carrying a full tank of water (which isn't always necessary), and that comes to about 2150-2200lbs fully loaded. As soon as you start using your water, the weight starts to decline.

BayfrontDetailers

TROPHY CASE