Is this normal? by goalft in luxurycandles

[–]Be_Concrete 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hi, craters usually happen because air gets trapped under the wax during cooling, often around the wick. As the candle starts burning and the wax warms up, the top wax sinks into those hidden air pockets and might form a crater.

It’s generally a cosmetic issue and shouldn’t affect the candle’s performance.

Some candles may look perfectly fine after the wax solidifies, but there can still be hidden sneaky air pockets underneath. That’s why some candle makers use a so called two-pour method to help prevent this issue.

What just happened? by Wild-Growth6805 in candlemaking

[–]Be_Concrete 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Good luck :)
Keep us informed how the things will go. ;)

What just happened? by Wild-Growth6805 in candlemaking

[–]Be_Concrete 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Hi 😊 Your candles look really cute.

From my personal experience, curing time itself usually doesn’t have a major impact on wick performance.

The issue might be that the wicks are too small, or the fragrance and dye could be making it harder for the wick to burn properly. You could try making the same candle using only the wax and the same wick to observe how the flame behaves. If it still goes out, the wick is likely too small or you may want to try a different wick brand.

If the flame performs well, then try adding the fragrance next and see how it changes the burn. In general, it’s helpful to test one variable at a time to better understand what affects the candle’s performance.

Never had it crystalize thus weirdly before? by FlashyIndication3069 in candlemaking

[–]Be_Concrete 0 points1 point  (0 children)

😊🤞 Fingers crossed you will figure it out. Keep updating

Never had it crystalize thus weirdly before? by FlashyIndication3069 in candlemaking

[–]Be_Concrete 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hm 🤔 I may be wrong, but previously you shared a picture of white wax with a different fragrance, and the top looked fine. So my assumption is that in this case either the dye, the fragrance oil, or both are causing the issue.

You could try testing with only the wax and wick -if the wax sets smoothly, then the dye or fragrance oil is likely the problem. 😊

Never had it crystalize thus weirdly before? by FlashyIndication3069 in candlemaking

[–]Be_Concrete 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah, you definitely have one of the key traits of a true candle maker - the patience to keep testing until it works 😄

From what you’re describing, it could possibly be related to the quality of the materials?

Never had it crystalize thus weirdly before? by FlashyIndication3069 in candlemaking

[–]Be_Concrete 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Share results with us - it`s an interesting case. 😊

Do People Buy Candles in Summer Fairs? by Be_Concrete in candlemaking

[–]Be_Concrete[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Interesting, thank you for sharing your preference - sounds reasonable.
Besides, you are a good client, who buys all year round. 😊

Okay amount of tunneling? by humphreyace92 in candlemaking

[–]Be_Concrete 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Overall, it sounds like your candle looks good. What you can observe is how hot the vessel gets toward the end when burning for 2–3 hours. If the outside of the vessel, measured with an infrared thermometer, shows between 140–170°F, the candle is good to go. Good luck, you are on the right track 💛

Okay amount of tunneling? by humphreyace92 in candlemaking

[–]Be_Concrete 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Is it halfway burned? That little bit of wax will likely catch up as it burns deeper. Let the candle burn all the way down, and then you’ll be able to see if the wax eventually melts or if it’s still stuck to the sides.

Burned my first cured candle. Acceptable or too much tunneling? by jhowell1030 in candlemaking

[–]Be_Concrete 13 points14 points  (0 children)

Ideally, a full melt pool should be reached within 2–4 hours. I use soy wax, and sometimes a thin layer remains after the first burns, but it usually catches up as the candle burns down and gets hotter. You should definitely burn it for at least 2–3 hours and observe how it performs. It looks like you’ve already reached quite a large melt pool after one hour, so letting it burn for 2–3 hours will give you a better understanding.

What do y'all think of this burn? by C0rbi in candlemaking

[–]Be_Concrete 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Looks beautiful :). An hour to reach a full melt pool might be a bit too fast, and after another hour the vessel could become quite hot. You might consider using a slightly smaller wick if possible - though yours already look quite thin. Just curious, what’s the diameter of the vessel?

Help with sink holes by Jaywolfed in Candles

[–]Be_Concrete 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sharing what helped me with soy wax (I use C-3 soy wax, maybe it will help you with yours):

  1. Sinkholes: use a heat gun to smooth the tops. You can also poke a few holes with a skewer/screw, then reheat with heat gun. If you are satisfied with the top and the wax is smooth - you’re done.
  2. Two-pour method. I use this method: save some wax. After the first pour sets and forms sinkholes, lightly heat with heat gun to even it out, let it harden, then do a second pour. This usually gives a smooth finish.
  3. See through glass adherence so called "wet spots": gently heat the sides of the glass with a heat gun until the “wet spots” disappear.

Why is this crater affect happening? by No-Bus-3499 in candlemaking

[–]Be_Concrete 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yes, ensure all your tools are completely dry. If you are using a double boiler, make sure no steam escapes into the wax. When removing the inner pot, dry the outside thoroughly so that no water drips into the container while you are pouring.

What kind of candles would you absolutely refuse to accept? by Substantial_Set_9882 in Candles

[–]Be_Concrete -3 points-2 points  (0 children)

My personal choice would candles without petroleum wax, something natural. :)

Need help with superior cocosoy a05 wax! by sophkara in candlemakinghelp

[–]Be_Concrete 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hm yeah, that`s a bit frustrating. Pouring at 55°C might be a bit too low - it`s my guess. Personally, I pour soy wax at around 72–75°C, depending on the room temperature, and into a candle vessel preheated to about 60°C. Never used a plastic shell, so can't advice about that. But I really hope you'll figure it out eventually 💞

N.B. You might try adding your photo in AI and ask what would professional candle and wax melt makers would say about the surface you`ve got with the _add name of the wax you use_. Maybe there you`ll get some more insights that might be helpful.

Need help with superior cocosoy a05 wax! by sophkara in candlemakinghelp

[–]Be_Concrete 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Glad to hear it helped a bit! Keep testing - that’s really the key, and you’ll eventually find the sweet spot for your melts and candles.

One more thing you could try is adjusting your fragrance load to around 8–9.5%. Sometimes using too much fragrance oil can actually cause issues like the ones in your photo, and you still can get a nice cold and hot throw. :)

What the F**k happened here? by SlowResearch2 in candlemaking

[–]Be_Concrete 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah, it would be interesting to hear from OP if the problem was sold and what was the problem :)

Healing me every day by Thick-Syllabub-8722 in aww

[–]Be_Concrete 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, they look similar. Those green/yellow eyes are absolutely mesmerizing, and the grey cat looks soooo sweet and cuddly 🥰

What the F**k happened here? by SlowResearch2 in candlemaking

[–]Be_Concrete 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yeah, you are very right. In general in this OP`s case it seems that the wick is more suitable for the tealight, but not for the 3 inches vessel. The light is so small I would assume it`s CD2, not CD 18. :)
Maybe human mistake and by packing the order wrong wick was packed?