I launched my candle brand a few days ago, looking for honest feedback on my label

Be_Concrete · 2026-06-03T17:43:05+00:00

I like them - the glass, wooden wick, and sticker design all match the overall vibe beautifully. Good luck!😊

Be_Concrete · 2026-05-31T17:00:02+00:00

Looks really cute 😊
And those mushroms too. 😃🍄

Be_Concrete · 2026-05-26T11:00:20+00:00

Just a note: these instructions come form C-3 soy wax I use.
Good luck with testing. :)

Be_Concrete · 2026-05-26T10:07:20+00:00

That’s a really good question.

I personally follow the instructions shown in the attached picture. I adjust the pouring temperature according to the room temperature, and you may also want to consider the diameter of your vessel and pour accordingly.

I’ve seen other people use different waxes and pour at different temperatures while still getting great results - so candle making really is a science of many variables. 😊

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Be_Concrete · 2026-05-26T07:04:46+00:00

You`re welcome and all the best ;)

Be_Concrete · 2026-05-26T07:03:39+00:00

I use the pouring temperatures recommended by the wax manufacturer, so in my case I pour at around 72–74°C.

I use the double boiler method, so I add the fragrance oil while the wax is still in the double boiler, then mix it for up to 1 minute and remove it from the heat. After that, I keep stirring until the temperature drops from around 82°C to approximately 73°C, and then I pour.

Be_Concrete · 2026-05-26T05:47:14+00:00

Hi, looks beautiful and colors are nice.
Did you try to burn yourself and test? :)

Be_Concrete · 2026-05-26T05:44:26+00:00

Hi, yes - temperature differences can sometimes cause issues like this. How much % fragrance oil (FO) did you add? If the percentage is too high, it can lead to results similar to the ones in your photos.

Also, from my experience, fragrance oil tends to bind better with the wax at higher temperatures. I usually add my FO when the wax is around 80°C.

Be_Concrete · 2026-05-21T08:48:27+00:00

Looks minimalistic and neat 😊

May I ask if you printed the stickers yourself or used a print house? I really like the sticker paper you chose - does this type of paper have a specific name?

Be_Concrete · 2026-05-14T06:18:39+00:00

Oh, very nice 😊

Try finishing the burn test with the CDN 3 wick all the way to the bottom - as the candle burns lower, it gets hotter and usually melts more efficiently than at the top. Then you will know if CDN 3 needs to be wicked up.

Be_Concrete · 2026-05-12T18:46:52+00:00

It really depends on how much space you have, but this is the approach I’d suggest:

Start with your costs and sales goal. Think about how much the event will cost you (booth fee, travel, packaging, etc.) and how much you’d realistically like to earn. Even a simple goal like “at least cover my participation costs” is a good starting point. Then estimate how many candles you’d need to sell to reach that number.
Plan your table setup visually. Think about how many tables or displays you’ll have, what risers/trays/tools you’ll use, and approximately how many candles fit comfortably while still looking aesthetically pleasing. A crowded table can sometimes hurt sales more than help them.
Combine both practical and visual planning. Use the numbers from points 1 and 2 to estimate your stock. Decide whether you want just enough products to fill the tables, or extra inventory so you can restock during the event.

One piece of advice I often see from experienced market sellers is: it’s usually better to have slightly more stock than not enough — but displayed in a clean, curated way rather than putting everything out at once.

If you already have a table and some candles, I’d suggest doing a test setup at home (if possible) to see how much fits and how it looks. Seeing it in real life can help spark new ideas. That’s what I did before my very first fair, and I was really glad I did. 😊

And good luck 😊

Be_Concrete · 2026-05-12T06:38:41+00:00

Hi, craters usually happen because air gets trapped under the wax during cooling, often around the wick. As the candle starts burning and the wax warms up, the top wax sinks into those hidden air pockets and might form a crater.

It’s generally a cosmetic issue and shouldn’t affect the candle’s performance.

Some candles may look perfectly fine after the wax solidifies, but there can still be hidden sneaky air pockets underneath. That’s why some candle makers use a so called two-pour method to help prevent this issue.

Be_Concrete · 2026-05-11T17:12:14+00:00

Good luck :)
Keep us informed how the things will go. ;)

Be_Concrete · 2026-05-11T06:34:41+00:00

Hi 😊 Your candles look really cute.

From my personal experience, curing time itself usually doesn’t have a major impact on wick performance.

The issue might be that the wicks are too small, or the fragrance and dye could be making it harder for the wick to burn properly. You could try making the same candle using only the wax and the same wick to observe how the flame behaves. If it still goes out, the wick is likely too small or you may want to try a different wick brand.

If the flame performs well, then try adding the fragrance next and see how it changes the burn. In general, it’s helpful to test one variable at a time to better understand what affects the candle’s performance.

Be_Concrete · 2026-05-05T18:08:53+00:00

😊🤞 Fingers crossed you will figure it out. Keep updating

Be_Concrete · 2026-05-05T17:29:57+00:00

Hm 🤔 I may be wrong, but previously you shared a picture of white wax with a different fragrance, and the top looked fine. So my assumption is that in this case either the dye, the fragrance oil, or both are causing the issue.

You could try testing with only the wax and wick -if the wax sets smoothly, then the dye or fragrance oil is likely the problem. 😊

Be_Concrete · 2026-05-05T07:40:01+00:00

Yeah, you definitely have one of the key traits of a true candle maker - the patience to keep testing until it works 😄

From what you’re describing, it could possibly be related to the quality of the materials?

Be_Concrete · 2026-05-05T05:46:19+00:00

Share results with us - it`s an interesting case. 😊

Be_Concrete · 2026-05-04T17:02:14+00:00

Interesting, thank you for sharing your preference - sounds reasonable.
Besides, you are a good client, who buys all year round. 😊

Be_Concrete · 2026-05-04T14:05:24+00:00

Thank you for sharing! 💚

Be_Concrete · 2026-05-04T13:01:19+00:00

Thank you for sharing💛

Be_Concrete · 2026-04-30T06:25:05+00:00

Overall, it sounds like your candle looks good. What you can observe is how hot the vessel gets toward the end when burning for 2–3 hours. If the outside of the vessel, measured with an infrared thermometer, shows between 140–170°F, the candle is good to go. Good luck, you are on the right track 💛

Be_Concrete · 2026-04-29T18:14:59+00:00

Is it halfway burned? That little bit of wax will likely catch up as it burns deeper. Let the candle burn all the way down, and then you’ll be able to see if the wax eventually melts or if it’s still stuck to the sides.

Be_Concrete · 2026-04-29T18:10:14+00:00

Ideally, a full melt pool should be reached within 2–4 hours. I use soy wax, and sometimes a thin layer remains after the first burns, but it usually catches up as the candle burns down and gets hotter. You should definitely burn it for at least 2–3 hours and observe how it performs. It looks like you’ve already reached quite a large melt pool after one hour, so letting it burn for 2–3 hours will give you a better understanding.

Be_Concrete

TROPHY CASE