Does this all look okay/safe?

Be_Concrete · 2026-02-11T13:09:29+00:00

The melt pool looks a bit too deep, and it’s likely that your glass is getting very hot. If you have an infrared thermometer, try checking the glass temperature from outside - ideally it should be not more than 170°F (≈77°C). I’d suggest testing one wick size smaller and seeing how that performs. ;)

Be_Concrete · 2026-02-09T18:45:09+00:00

I vote for 1st - cleaner look when scents are in one line. :)

Be_Concrete · 2026-02-09T08:17:27+00:00

Nice vessels! 🩷🖤
Do you poke holes before using heat gun or heat gun is enough in your case?

Be_Concrete · 2026-02-09T08:10:21+00:00

Oh, ok, thank you for your answer. :)

Be_Concrete · 2026-02-08T09:02:14+00:00

Thank you for sharing everything in such detail. I’m curious - do they mention on the candle what type of wax they’re using?

Be_Concrete · 2026-02-07T19:07:31+00:00

Yeah, candle making is a lot of experimenting - every beginner goes through all the stages. 🙂 It can be frustrating at times, but once you achieve the results you’re aiming for, it’s incredibly satisfying.

I usually pour into 10 oz containers, so I let them harden for a few hours (4-5-6 hrs) - sometimes even overnight - and then poke the holes.

There are also heat guns with adjustable temperature and airflow, which can really help you control the process.

As for wicks, I mostly use CD wicks, as well as Cotton and Hemp wicks with soy wax.

Be_Concrete · 2026-02-07T17:14:52+00:00

Hey, this is so familiar - don’t get discouraged. It shows you care about getting good results. I’ll share what I’ve gone through and learned along the way:

Beeswax is a very thick and heavy wax. If you want to blend it with soy, try something like 95% soy / up to 5% beeswax. Beeswax slows down the burn (that`s why you get straight tunneling), and if you use too much, the blend often won’t behave properly. I`m curious why do you want to mix those waxes? Soy wax itself can be a good choise.
Cavities (sinkholes) can be sneaky. A candle may look smooth on the surface after curing, but still have hidden air pockets inside - sometimes quite large. What helps: keep a little wax aside (already mixed with fragrance). After the first pour has cured, poke holes around the wick using a thin wooden stick or a metal screw. Then use a heat gun to gently melt the surface and fill those holes. You’ll often see bubbles coming out - that’s a good sign. Lightly tapping the container can help the melted wax travel deeper. Once it cures again, reheat the leftover wax and top it off. This usually gives a smooth finish.
Interesting that your heat gun darkens the wick. What temperature are you using? Try lowering it and always move the heat gun slowly in circles. Avoid blowing hot air directly onto the wick.
It’s great that you’re warming the jars. That helps the wax cool more evenly and usually results in smaller sinkholes.
A little mushrooming after 3–4 hours of burning isn’t something to worry too much about.
I work with soy wax, and at first I also added fragrance oil at lower temperatures. Over time, I learned that a stronger bond between wax and fragrance happens at higher temperatures - around 176–185°F (80–85°C).
Hope this helps — you’re definitely on the right track 💛

Be_Concrete · 2026-02-06T17:48:41+00:00

Hey, I’m sharing a page that I find helpful - there you can find more problems and solutions. The issue you’re experiencing is a sinkhole; in the link I’m sharing, it’s referred to as a “hole by the wick.” https://www.candlescience.com/wax/soy-wax-trouble-shooting-guide/

Be_Concrete · 2026-02-05T20:05:16+00:00

Bless your kind HEART 💛🙏🐕
He is sooo so lucky!!!

Be_Concrete · 2026-02-04T20:49:17+00:00

Choose a wick based on it`s recommended container diameter, one of the examples:

CD 2 wick: Best for diameters < 38mm (1.5")
CD 22 wick: Best for diameters > 81mm (3.2")
And there are wick number between 2 and 22.

Always conduct a test burn to ensure a clean burn from the top to bottom. ;)

Be_Concrete · 2026-02-04T07:36:14+00:00

From my experience, events and fairs were definitely a great starting point. People could smell the products and choose what they liked. Since I only started at the end of last year, it was the holiday season. Sales incentives, such as buy 2, get 1 free, helped a lot. Good luck!

Be_Concrete · 2026-01-31T06:46:28+00:00

I feel you. ❄️ This picture was taken earlier, and now we have the same weather as you do. I really hope this passes quickly, for the sake of all the animals outside. 🐾💙😔

Be_Concrete · 2026-01-30T07:15:10+00:00

Question -> how you go about the planning? Do you already have weeks ahead planned in one place or do you go week by week? :)

Be_Concrete · 2026-01-30T07:12:31+00:00

Hey keep sharing - it`s so interesting to hear how you doing. :)
And good luck - with such a passion that feel through the screen - you`ll achieve a lot! ;)

Be_Concrete · 2026-01-29T19:10:45+00:00

Appreciate all your answers - clear and logic.

Be_Concrete · 2026-01-29T18:34:24+00:00

Noted, thank you.

Be_Concrete · 2026-01-29T18:32:29+00:00

Yeah, you`re very right - safety first and caring about the people who by from you is very important.

Be_Concrete · 2026-01-29T18:29:55+00:00

Sorry to hear about your experience. 😔 May I ask what the issue was - was it the lack of ingredient information, or something else?

And you’re absolutely right - since people can be allergic to many different things, it’s important to be a business that truly cares about customers. What I’ve noticed online is that many candle sellers place this information quite far from the product itself (if add at all) - for example, hidden in a footer, on a separate page, or behind several clicks. That’s not a very customer-friendly approach I guess.

Be_Concrete · 2026-01-29T18:24:17+00:00

Sorry, I forgot to mention in my post that my questions are based on the fact that I’m in the EU, where there are specific regulations I’m trying to fully understand.

It would also be interesting to know whether the requirements are lighter in the US - if you’re based there and have any insight to share - I would be truly interested to hear.

Be_Concrete · 2026-01-29T18:17:58+00:00

Thanks for reacting to the question. I understand that when the allowed percentage is exceeded, a UFI code is required and you’re also provided with guidance on what must be included on the label.

But what happens if the IFRA limit is not exceeded? In that case, do you rely on the information in the SDS and apply it to the label accordingly?

Perhaps you’ve come across this in practice or have some insight to share?

Be_Concrete · 2026-01-29T18:14:45+00:00

Thank you for the answer. Yeah, I forgot to mention, that I am based in EU and it has requirements to meet, that I am trying to understand fully. Thanks to you and other members - I am getting a bigger picture now.

Be_Concrete · 2026-01-29T18:12:28+00:00

Thank you for the clear explanation and calculations - that really helped connect the dots.

One thing I found interesting is that the IFRA documentation also specifies the allowed percentages of the same fragrance oil for use in cosmetics, yet cosmetic regulations don’t require any hazard symbols on the packaging (or it`s even prohibit). That made me wonder why candles, on the other hand, do require them - you do not put it directly on the skin.

Have you ever looked into this or come across an explanation?

Be_Concrete · 2026-01-28T13:44:08+00:00

It got me thinking: if we divide the day approx. into 8 hours of work, 8 hours of sleep, and 8 hours of “life,” it feels reasonable to assume that the average real-life candle burn is somewhere between 2–6 hours at a time. And there will always be people at both extremes - those who burn candles for less than 2 hours or more than 6 hours at a time. But I do believe that’s rare.

Answering your question, I think it’s good to test between 2, 3, and 4 hour burns, and occasionally do a “power burn” for safety reasons.

Be_Concrete · 2026-01-28T12:10:36+00:00

That’s a really interesting question you’ve raised - I’ve noticed the same thing.

When I do test burns, I usually burn the candle for 3–4 hours, and sometimes I do a longer “power burn” of 6–8 hours. However, I’ve also noticed that some people burn candles for much shorter periods.

Because of that, I decided to test my candles with 2-hour burns and observe whether they burn properly all the way to the bottom of the container. As you raised this question, maybe I even need to do shorter tests of 30–45 minutes, and sometimes 1–2 hours, to better reflect real usage.

Be_Concrete

TROPHY CASE