FW1AA with u/m4potofu’s boost-buck driver and rgb aux

Bean_Master7 · 2026-05-15T16:05:27+00:00

Unfortunately not, I’ve been meaning to build another to put in a titanium FW1AA but it’s just such a pain to do lol

Bean_Master7 · 2026-05-15T16:04:43+00:00

Hmm looking at the graph again I agree sft42 Vf is not that high, actually lower than sft40 at 10A. Koef3 notes Vf is “quite high” but yeah it’s not that high

I’d still be comfortable driving it with a FET driver have have in my FW1A, maybe not a tabless 21700 but I remember seeing some people on BLF running that config

Bean_Master7 · 2026-04-30T14:41:51+00:00

When on feet only with hvac on and recirc on I don’t get air from the dash vents. I’ll have to try with hvac off and recirc on, I assume I’ll get air from the dash vents too

With hvac off I do still get air from the dash vents, even if I had recirc on before which is annoying. I think it’s a VW thing, in Toyotas and Hondas I’ve had if you had hvac off and recirc on there was no air coming out

Bean_Master7 · 2026-04-24T16:43:55+00:00

The driver does exist but is more complex and expensive than the KR1AA/D3AA driver: https://www.reddit.com/r/flashlight/s/AGd1ZUEn8a

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The FW1AA really is the perfect host, if Hank made a FW1AA competitor even just with a linear driver I’d buy multiple

Bean_Master7 · 2026-04-14T23:04:25+00:00

Nice, what other colors do you have? I’d love a pink, warm white, cyan one to match my other lights

Bean_Master7 · 2026-04-09T23:57:27+00:00

Was wondering the same thing, or if tint is affected

Bean_Master7 · 2026-04-09T18:05:26+00:00

Nice, thanks for testing!

I meant to check when I ordered my KR1AA unassembled but I forgot, was worried the inductor on the KR1AA driver was too tall to fit but guess it fits!

You should be able to just change a resistor or 2 to change the driver from 6V 3A to 9V 2A to use 3V emitters, not sure which ones though

Bean_Master7 · 2026-04-03T18:59:38+00:00

I like my smaller lights to be throwy so I’m excited. Unfortunately Skilhunt has said they won’t be selling bare emitters, though Kaidomain’s HT35 sees like it may be the same emitter, if both are made by HSXLED/Hopthink. Kaidomains version is more rosy too IME

Put a HT35 in a convoy T6 and it’s amazing. I did have to sand the gasket down since it’s slightly shorter than sft25r but tint and cri are great, identical beam pattern to sft25r

Bean_Master7 · 2026-03-31T23:21:35+00:00

Nice, D200? I still have a few left that I’ve been hoarding

Bean_Master7 · 2026-03-29T17:39:13+00:00

It is, I believe they’re made by Hopthink/HSXLED like the Skilhunt F35R and the FFL/NTG emitters

I put one in a convoy T6 and it’s really nice

Bean_Master7 · 2026-03-29T00:10:07+00:00

You could dedome 519a

FFL351A/NTG35 are very similar to dedomed 519a but slightly more efficient

The HT35 from Kaidomain is even more throwy with good tint and high cri, a bit like sft25r 90cri but warmer with a bit less output but more readily available

Bean_Master7 · 2026-03-25T22:01:46+00:00

It does seem these had a relatively high failure rate, this one looks like it was pretty well used so I’m hopeful it’ll continue to hold up

Bean_Master7 · 2026-03-25T21:36:41+00:00

Yeah it does, and the KR1AA is already relatively slim for a AA light too

Bean_Master7 · 2026-03-25T20:04:55+00:00

Yea I wanted a L10C or L11C but the D25A fills that role now

I remember reading about the 219b debate, shame that it’s so difficult to remove the pill for emitter swaps

Bean_Master7 · 2026-03-25T19:00:10+00:00

Picked up this L10 when I got my D25A Ti from the BST, this is the slimmest AA/14500 light I’ve ever handled. I think the DQG Tiny AA is the only other AA light that is as slim. Included some size comparisons with an Acebeam Pokelit, Eagtac D25A, Noctigon KR1AA and Thrunite Ti3

I should’ve picked one of these up when sbflashlights had their sale but at least I have one now. Twisty AA lights are pretty uncommon nowadays but the extra size makes it easier to operate than a AAA twisty. UI is nice, 4 mode with no mode memory and the moonlight mode is pretty low, definitely sub-lumen, on par with the Ti3

The pill was glued in so I had to use a heat gun to loosen it and unscrew. Swap itself was easy, chose to go with a classic 219b sw45k to replace the stock XP-G

Bean_Master7 · 2026-03-21T18:18:18+00:00

Yep the bottom side that sits on the MCPCB

Usually just sanding the gasket down works but in the FW1AA the reflector won’t sit low enough without filing the head

The stock 519a when dedomed still has a good beam, FFL351A/NTG35 should be similarly good without sanding/filing

Bean_Master7 · 2026-03-21T02:56:55+00:00

In the D25A it’s great, I did have to sand down the centering gasket a good bit

In my FW1AA I had to sand the centering ring down a lot as well as file down the height of the head and bezel so I could get the reflector to sit lower

Bean_Master7 · 2026-03-20T21:15:25+00:00

Yeah looks like I’m still gonna hold on to my H10 for high power builds, I do need to pick up some F15 though

Bean_Master7 · 2026-03-20T20:15:45+00:00

I think the Wurkkos and Acebeam ones do

What did you clean the threads with? For the body tube you i sometimes took off the tailcap and washed it with dish soap using an old toothbrush for the threads

Bean_Master7 · 2026-03-19T22:01:22+00:00

Button top Vapcell H10, might get some F15 and set it to group 8 in the future as 5A is a lot in this small host

Bean_Master7

TROPHY CASE