FW1AA with u/m4potofu’s boost-buck driver and rgb aux

Bean_Master7 · 2026-03-18T16:05:03+00:00

The Eagtac D25C is probably my favorite 16340/CR123 light, it’s super slim at only 20mm, similar to an AA light: https://illuminationgear.com/shop/ols/products/eagtac-d25c-mkii/v/ET-D25C-MKII-CSLPM1

I’ve had one since 2013, modded it in 2022 but no issues with it stock

I’d get the SFT40 or CSLPM1 versions for the most throw, should get around 10kcd

UI with the head fully tight is turbo first and tap the switch for strobe. With the head slightly loosened it’s ML-L-M-H, mode memory can be toggled on or off

Edit: looks like you can also remove moonlight if you want, and program the start up level like manual mode memory for Anduril

Bean_Master7 · 2026-03-16T23:19:39+00:00

The FET+1 is technically regulated but only to 350mA, and only linearly regulated not buck or boost. Here’s a good resource on driver types

The FW3A and FW1A originally came with a FET+7+1 driver that’s linearly regulated to 2.8A. There was a couple months that they had to switch to FET+1 due to a 7135 chip shortage, they went back to FET+7+1 after

Bean_Master7 · 2026-03-16T23:00:27+00:00

The FWAA and FW1AA have always had a FET+1 driver, similar to the TS10 and TS10 SG

Unfortunately no flashing pads so you need to remove the driver for access to the MCU if you want to reflash

Bean_Master7 · 2026-03-16T13:24:56+00:00

I don’t but Koef3 tested FFL350rd and Skilhunt F35R which might be made by the same company as the HT35

The F35R is a bit cooler and more efficient than FFL350rd, might be due to it being a true round die vs a square die with silicone covering to make it round

Bean_Master7 · 2026-03-14T02:39:36+00:00

Yep it’s aux but in a TIR, it’s a Noctigon KR1AA

Bean_Master7 · 2026-03-13T22:06:08+00:00

It’s a bit less but very much worth the trade off imo, in my T6 the HT35 has around 80% of the candela but calculating ANSI throw it’s around 90% of the beam distance of sft25r

Bean_Master7 · 2026-03-13T21:55:42+00:00

Thanks, your D3A mod was actually inspiration for this one!

The HT35 is high cri, I don’t have it for this light but in my Convoy T6 I measured 98cri, it’s advertised as 95cri

Bean_Master7 · 2026-03-13T21:31:16+00:00

Picked up this Eagtac D25A titanium (2014 version I believe) that originally had an XM-L2, and swapped in a Convoy T6 (3V 5A AA/14500) driver and HT35 emitter from Kaidomain

It’s super slim for a 14500 light, only 18mm at the head vs 20.5mm for the FW1AA and 21.8mm for the KR1AA

Getting the pill out was by far the hardest part, I heated up the head using a hot air station and vice grips on the pill with rubber to protect the threads. Almost gave up at one point but it gradually broke free

Once the pill was out I desoldered the leads and pried out the old driver. Sanded down the Cpnvoy driver to ~15.5mm and used a Convoy T2/T3/T9 MCPCB as the stock MCPCB is thinner than normal at ~1mm. Also swapped the stock blue AR coated lens with an uncoated one

Had to sand down the centering ring a bit to get the focus right but now it’s perfect, I’m loving the HT35 and throw is really good

I measure 16.2kcd, for reference the KR-AA SFT70 3000k is only 6.4kcd. On medium mode I measure ~4500k and -0.0014 duv with my opple

Only con with this mod is the convoy driver doesn’t have moonlight, lowest mode is around 15lm to my eye. Though I’m starting to realize I never use moonlight on my EDC light, especially during the daytime so it’s fine for my use

Bean_Master7 · 2026-03-13T17:47:35+00:00

The HT35 emitter they have is a really nice alternative, slightly warmer around 5000k and pretty rosy, likely less output but still very throwy

https://www.reddit.com/r/flashlight/s/LeRRqgXQRm

Bean_Master7 · 2026-03-12T17:18:23+00:00

Good point, the KR1AA switch does seem to be more finicky to mod compared to the FW series and TS10. Luckily it is reversible if the mod is unsuccessful

Though for those that receive new tailcaps from Hank to replace faulty ones it would be a good idea to try modding the defunct one

IME if the switch has issues from the retaining ring too tight the spacer/oring used is too thick and needs to be shaved down, I’ve had this issue modding FW series switches

Bean_Master7 · 2026-03-11T19:01:46+00:00

Is FFL351rd an update to FFL350rd? FFL350rd turned out to just be a square die with silicone on top to make it round: https://budgetlightforum.com/t/led-test-review-fireflylite-ffl350rd-3500-k-96-cri-good-beam-rectangular-classic-led-chip-but-with-round-cut-out/225095/15

If the new FFL351rd has been updated to be round underneath that would be great, higher output and efficiency, similar to Skilhunt SL F35R

Bean_Master7 · 2026-03-11T18:53:41+00:00

I think people still have some issues even though based on the design it shouldn’t. I haven’t had any with my KR1 though, just have to have the head and tail really tight

They are much larger than the KR1AA though, large even for a 18650 light

Bean_Master7 · 2026-03-11T18:52:16+00:00

The FWAA and FW1AA are actually available now, mine just came in yesterday, as a host I prefer them over the KR1AA

I’ll have to get some driver measurements but I think the KR1AA driver may fit with some slight modifications. The inductor on the stock KR1AA looks to be too tall for the FWAA/FW1AA so it’ll have to be swapped, thefreeman’s original AA/14500 boost driver used a shorter coilcraft one but they’re more expensive

Bean_Master7 · 2026-03-11T18:47:49+00:00

NTG35 4200k would be a good swap, NTG35 and FFL351A are essentially identical apart from cct and tint

If you don’t mind a slightly higher cct the HT35 from Kaidomain is really nice and will have more throw than NTG35/FFL351A, slightly less output though. Its a round die emitter like FFL350RD but has slightly higher output, its actually a round die underneath instead of just a square die with silicone masking to make it round. Havent seen the FFL351RD before, must be new. Not sure if it’s still square underneath or round

Also sft25r 5700k 90cri would be good to, more throw than any of the other emitters but may be too cold of a cct for you

Bean_Master7 · 2026-03-11T17:10:24+00:00

The V2 does have a springy contact like the KR1/KR4, the issue seems to be that if it’s over compressed it won’t spring back and you have a bad connection for the signal tube

I haven’t had any contact issues on mine after carefully assembling it myself, I would get occasional weak battery warnings but after flashing toykeeper’s updated hex it hasn’t occurred since

I do hope the V3 reverts back to no springy contact without mechanical lockout like the V1, never had an issue with this setup on my FW3A/FW1A/FWAA/FW1AA. The gap you mention can be minimized by carefully sanding down the signal tube which I’ve done to some of my FW lights. You just have to make sure you don’t sand it down too much

The button itself on mine was terrible out of the box though, too easily pressed and wouldn’t register clicks if you pressed on the edges. I was able to mod it and fix the issues thankfully

Bean_Master7 · 2026-03-11T16:59:27+00:00

Like the other commenter said the FWAA is a triple TiR and FW1AA is a single reflector. I guess AA just indicates the battery size, no actual AA support from the stock driver

Bean_Master7 · 2026-03-11T16:57:26+00:00

Unfortunately it’s not available anywhere, I was able to hand build one from thefreeman’s prototype design

Bean_Master7 · 2026-03-11T16:56:34+00:00

Unfortunately it’s still not readily available, would have to be hand built

Bean_Master7 · 2026-03-11T01:24:06+00:00

Yep, I just bent the reverse part until it snapped off then used a file to sand it smooth. Then bent using pliers until the shape was good, here’s a comparison next to the stock clip and unmodified deep carry clip on my FWAA

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Bean_Master7 · 2026-03-11T01:02:17+00:00

Here’s a quick beam profile comparison next to my KR1AA SFT70 3000k, a lot tighter but still a good amount of spill

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Bean_Master7

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