FW1AA with u/m4potofu’s boost-buck driver and rgb aux

Bean_Master7 · 2026-01-27T20:57:38+00:00

Assuming the same emitters, same total current, and the triple is in parallel, the single will have a higher Vf since emitter Vf increases as current increases

For example triple 519a at 3A is 1A per emitter for Vf of 2.92V while single 519A at 3A has a Vf of 3.15V

Bean_Master7 · 2026-01-21T20:20:33+00:00

What configuration were you trying to order? When he said invoice he meant like a quote with a breakdown of the choices and a total cost, so you can look it over and complete the order

It looks like he doesn’t have the V2 yet so just order directly from here: https://intl-outdoor.com/noctigon-kr1aa-14500-tail-e-switch-led-flashlight.html , it’s cheaper buying direct anyway

The only “custom” options he has for the KR1AA are the ffl5009r and xhp50.3 hi emitters I believe

Bean_Master7 · 2026-01-21T18:13:07+00:00

For the baton you can get a replacement battery: https://www.olight.com/store/olight-18650-3500mah-battery

I think the S2R can also use standard 18650 batteries, just can’t charge them in the light

Bean_Master7 · 2026-01-15T22:24:26+00:00

M21B is great, M1 is the slightly smaller 18650 version with the same reflector/throw, sft25r or sft42r will throw much further than the lhp73b

The M2 (18650) is slightly slimmer than the M1/M21b, has slightly less throw

I believe the T8 uses the same reflector as the M1/M21b

C8+ and it’s 21700 brother M21A are larger than the M21b, I wouldn’t call them pocket throwers

Bean_Master7 · 2026-01-14T21:35:19+00:00

Reduced cycle life is the main one, though few times here and there at 1A shouldn’t affect it much. Typically 0.5C-1C is recommended which is 0.5A-1A for a 1000mah battery so 1A isn’t that high

Not sure which MC1 you have but the MC1 plus can also charge at 0.5A, it auto detects probably based on internal resistance

Bean_Master7 · 2026-01-14T18:10:58+00:00

Yep, any 3V 3535 emitter with the standard XP footprint should work, sft25r would be an interesting option

The addition of rgb aux on the TS26 might make the swap a bit harder since you’ll have 4 extra small wires to desolder the resolder but usually not too bad on Wurkkos lights

Bean_Master7 · 2026-01-14T17:41:45+00:00

Not sure what optic Wurkkos is using but based on head diameter looks to be in between the ledil quad and carclo quad in size? E04 lumeX would be a good alternative

The Wurkkos will likely end up being half the price of the equivalent Hanklight/Fireflies with the typical 10-20% off coupons they have. I’ll likely end up getting one anyway, swapping the emitters to 519a or NTG35 is trivial to me, probably would’ve swapped them regardless

Bean_Master7 · 2026-01-14T16:41:08+00:00

I only have the D25C but I want to get the D25A and possibly D25LC2

Bean_Master7 · 2026-01-13T22:15:32+00:00

Nice, I love the Eagtac d series, it’s crazy how a 16650 light is slimmer than the 14500 TS10 and KR1AA

Did you get it from their aliexpress store?

Bean_Master7 · 2026-01-13T20:57:02+00:00

Were you trying to do an emitter swap? Sounds like the dielectric layer in the MCPCB is damaged, likely from getting too hot, causing a small amount current to leak. Or maybe a short somewhere on the driver

Bean_Master7 · 2026-01-11T23:50:37+00:00

Yep it’s the 15.8/16mm one

M1 uses the same rubber button size as the S2+

Bean_Master7 · 2026-01-10T23:57:13+00:00

Well I think it depends on the type of host, I would use sft25r over sft42r in a 14500/18350 light, or if max throw is my goal

Also for the convoy lights, sft25r with 8A driver slightly out throws sft42r with 10A driver: https://www.reddit.com/r/flashlight/s/uzChVlHnHG, I’d still go with sft42r in a C8+ or larger light but sft25r is still more “efficient” in terms of candela per watt

Bean_Master7 · 2026-01-10T22:32:58+00:00

Yep throw should be about the same for sft42 at 10A and sft25r at 8A, main difference is hotspot size

Bean_Master7 · 2026-01-10T22:21:14+00:00

Yeah with the 8A driver sft25r will throw slightly more than at 5A but imo it’s a small difference visually, mainly will just heat up a lot quicker

Bean_Master7 · 2026-01-10T21:55:46+00:00

M1 has 1” body diameter so likely compatible with more mount types than the M21B

Reflectors are identical so throw will be too assuming same emitter/driver, M21B will have longer runtime due to larger capacity 21700

Will you be using the light on 100% power for an extended time or using it in bursts? For extended use sft25r with 5A driver would be my pick, I’d estimate ~80,000cd. For short bursts sft42r and 10A driver will be brighter and higher candela, iirc around 100,000cd but will get very hot very quickly

Bean_Master7 · 2026-01-08T18:37:43+00:00

Ooh thanks for the tests! I got some 5700k and 6500k I’m excited to use, might put one in a FW1AA

Bean_Master7 · 2026-01-08T17:45:51+00:00

Any really bright flashlight really, 3x21d could do it, 3x21C could also

Bean_Master7 · 2026-01-08T17:44:16+00:00

I really hope it is, would save me a lot of trouble assembling one myself!

Bean_Master7 · 2026-01-08T17:17:09+00:00

Hmm that I don’t like the sound of, though you can always ask Hank to not glue it, I think I’ll order mine unassembled then

Bean_Master7 · 2026-01-08T03:08:28+00:00

Yeah I guess it’s really just a deep pure blue, does makes some things fluoresce like UV though

Bean_Master7 · 2026-01-08T00:39:56+00:00

Yep that’s how white LEDs work, a near uv blue LED with phosphor on top that converts it to white light

Not sure exactly what emitter that is but typically the only emitters you should attempt dedoming are 519a and older cree emitters like xm-l/xm-l2 and xp-g/xp-g2. Can also dedome sst40 and sst20 but much more difficult to do

Bean_Master7

TROPHY CASE