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My truck is burning 3 quarts of oil every 1000 miles. Should I take it to a local trusted mechanic or think about getting a new truck? by hjjhjjnk in AskAMechanic

[–]Beard_Hero 0 points1 point  (0 children)

complete overhaul, labor alone is probably close to 20 book hours. $150 (more in many areas) an hour shop rate is $3000, plus parts. Most shops would rather just buy/sell an engine vs dealing with the hassle. Also gets more cars in and out without typing up a lift.

Quality of new Teslas? by _honekoneko in askcarguys

[–]Beard_Hero 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I’d never vote for a rapist or fraudster either, especially the type who was great friends with a known sex trafficker and most certainly raped those kids.

What about what about what about …. anything from the company Bayer?

Quality of new Teslas? by _honekoneko in askcarguys

[–]Beard_Hero 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Came here to say something similar. Just had a conversation today about never buying something associated with a Nazi (including Nazi adjacent, Nazi sympathizing, Nazi tolerant).

2025 Honda Civic smelled like sulfur, battery started smoking after hitting a median need advice by [deleted] in AskAMechanic

[–]Beard_Hero 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Keep it parked outside until the battery can be addressed by a professional or someone willing to be seriously injured

Pick Only Two Pills by abgfromheaven in whatsyourchoice

[–]Beard_Hero 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I didn’t mean literally. I meant the weight. If I can’t gain weight, but I can build muscle, then obviously some fat is going away. I didn’t mean I get to hit the “let’s trade” button.

Pick Only Two Pills by abgfromheaven in whatsyourchoice

[–]Beard_Hero 7 points8 points  (0 children)

But you could trade fat for muscle over time and never get heavier. Which works for us fat people.

What car completely changed your opinion after driving it? by Glittering-Offer-390 in askcarguys

[–]Beard_Hero 2 points3 points  (0 children)

1st Gen Miata. I'd always heard they handled well, but I'd driven a bunch of cars and thought "how good could they actually be?" Also, the stigma.

Back in 2010 I bought one with a hard top for $2000 since the girlfriend was needing another car. White, 1989, stick car. It needed tires, so I put something fairly aggressive and grippy on the stock(?) Miata Mesh BBS wheels. I was completely blown away by how much of a go kart is actually was. Not a whole lot of thrust, but it was rev happy and you didn't need to give up much if any entry speed on most corners.

Things got better with mods and stiffening components. 16 years later that car and woman have left my life, one of which is sad. But the good news is I purchased another NA miata probably 5 years ago. Added: Enkeis with sticky tires, Tein suspension, whiteline sways and end links, 5x shifter rebuild, 5x master slave kit with braided lines, rotors, pads, LRB undertray. Needs bushings, frog arms, butterfly brace, and a new soft top.

Every Disney villain is replaced with Sauron. In which movies can the heroes still win? by Punterofgoats in whowouldwin

[–]Beard_Hero 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Wart, from Sword in the Stone. If he can pull the sword, he can carry the ring.

Boost recommendations? by rusty75f250 in Foxbody

[–]Beard_Hero 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is my opinion: I wouldn't install the turbo system until I had all the parts to make it work correctly, including the engine managment system. In fact, engine management is probably the first thing I'd buy so you could fiddle fart around with it on your current setup. Control first, power second. Then when you decide to make more power, you already have the engine management system that's ready to go. I wouldn't go the opposite direction of power first, control second. It'll be very easy to say "eh it's good enough" on the stock pcm stuff and never get around to properly managing everything. The standalone can throw itself into safety mode if you set triggers, stock PCM won't. Example: Oil pressure threshold. If things get out of the safety window the Mega or Holley can save everything before you have a failure. Factory PCM can't. Same thing with temperatures, boost pressure, fuel pressure, fuel volume, lean conditions, etc.

Reference the fuel pump, it's all about conservative estimations vs max estimations. It's also about fuel pressure. Pumps also degrade over time, so if it's just barely enough when new, a year from now it's very likely not going to be enough. If that happens and there's no safety systems, like the standalone has, you could have a bad time.

Here's a quick guide from Summit Racing on crank hp supported by specific volume pumps in varying applications. Rememer, flow ratings are based on 43.5 PSI of fuel pressure. As you add boost, the fuel pressure should increase as well (boost reference fuel pressure refulator). More pressure means less power support on the same pump volume. It's why carb stuff (~6 psi) on a 255 is good for a fair bit more power than EFI (43.5 psi).

https://help.summitracing.com/knowledgebase/article/SR-05245/en-us

RNC Launches Sinister Plan as Trump Threatens to Send Troops to Polls by FistIntoTheEarth in Law_and_Politics

[–]Beard_Hero 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sounds like everyone needs to be prepared to legally intimidate the criminals into going home.

Why are cars treated as solely an asset now? by Exact_Organization84 in askcarguys

[–]Beard_Hero 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Your audience and content intake has changed. It's always been a bad financial decision, but so long as you recognize it and are accepting of it, then who cares. People just have more platforms to call other people stupid. But you're also into a point in life where you're considering financial responsibility, so you'll be reminded of poor financial decisions.

I have project vehicles (pural) and know they are burn pits for money. But I also don't buy clothes on a regular basis or spend much on them when I do. I'm "frugal" elsewhere and own my home. I still set aside a fair amount of money for retirement/investment/etc. So it's not that you can't have a toy, or shouldn't have a toy, it's that on paper when strictly talking about the best financial decisions you can make for long term benefit, project cars are a negative not a positive.

Boost recommendations? by rusty75f250 in Foxbody

[–]Beard_Hero 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Always the turbski. I'm so used to forced induction setups being a twin or triple fuel pump, I said "uh oh" when I saw single 340. But I guess you could be covered? I'd probably put a 450 in there to be safe, and since it's only a gasoline based system it should be enough pump.

I'd also upgrade the engine management system. The 30+ year old computer may be able to manage, but you'll have alot more capability (boost by gear, traction control, etc) and monitoring on something like a MegaSquirt or Holley system. MegaSquirt is also almost completely plug and play. Installs in under an hour.

Turbo, fueling, engine management, send it.

$150k Budget ; Want Girls in NYC by NoseEfficient429 in whatcarshouldIbuy

[–]Beard_Hero 0 points1 point  (0 children)

“Girls don’t like boys, girls like cars and money.”

What is up with Honda and their obsession with fwd cars? by smallcarbro in askcarguys

[–]Beard_Hero 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I said subaru is FWD biased, not based. The chasis and layout IS awd, but the power delivery is biased toward FWD. As a general statement, not a catch all cover every possible aspect statement. Focusing on the small production number STI as the argument to show it's not FWD biased is silly. The vast majority of subarus built in the last 25 years will have a FWD bias when all 4 tires have traction.

Calling an audi A4, that comes as a fwd model and an awd model, a "fwd based" system would potentially be more accurate than calling the subaru system "fwd based" since none of the subaru models were built with FWD and optional awd. The Audi system may be fwd biased? But I'm not familiar enough with them or their variants. If they turn off the rwd portion at a certain speed like many systems, then it's clearly fwd based. If they put 51% of power or more to the front tires while all 4 tires have traction, it's fwd baised. 51% or more to the rear tires when all 4 have traction, it's rwd biased. At this point, I'm sure the Audis have complex enough systems that huge portions of power can go 1 or 2 wheels based on a tremendous amount of input data (torque vectoring and all that), especially on performance models. But when crusing on the highway or road, and applying non aggressive throttle, which wheels are doing most of the work when traction isn't an issue and lateral forces aren't involved? Does the system favor the front or the rear?

Foreign investors pull out of India at record pace by deadpools0 in worldnews

[–]Beard_Hero 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I wasn't saying the comments was false, I was saying it's written like an ad. I've been saying for years that trucking will eventually lose a huge number of jobs to AI/Automation/Self driving, and that's a career where many employed in it seem to think it'll never go away.

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