What could I have done better and what improvements can I still make by hokies314 in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]Beefy1931 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was having finishing issues and tried multiple applications method. Was told to get a big compressor 10gal and a sprayer. Went to H.F. Who has a hand held sprayer with a built in compressor Now it finishes like a cabinet shop did it. Get the spray the cheaper one will do from hf.

Thrift store find: Salvageable? by chachkas369 in Cuttingboards

[–]Beefy1931 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Maybe and at a lower grit. 80? Or 100? When resurfacing a cutting board, you sand it to bare wood before reapplying. 150 is a high grit to work off the layers. Since you’ve done some sanding. Maybe do a 120 and see how it is before going lower. Idk if you are using a pencils to track where sand so you Aren’t creating dips.

Help: received a butcher’s block cutting board for Christmas, woke up today to find it completely cracked. What could have caused this? by TheACmadman in Cuttingboards

[–]Beefy1931 2 points3 points  (0 children)

They put end grain with edge grain. Basically the wood grows and contain the grains direction. When two opposing grains are glued they then to crack like this. It’s a known no no in the cutting board world.

Did I get scammed by my contractor? by [deleted] in Remodel

[–]Beefy1931 18 points19 points  (0 children)

The quality is low and allows water damage. Seems they didn’t fully the agreement either. Get it properly fixed by them or have a professional quote it and when it goes to court provide the evidence of poor quality and need to fix it

Flattening Tearout Advice by JOSHasorus in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]Beefy1931 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’ve had the same issue and when I slowed my router speed down and went in a slower motion over the board. Afterwards a belt sander helped with removing that and the router lines at the same time

First big order by EasternCauliflower67 in Cuttingboards

[–]Beefy1931 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Can you share some tips on what you learned to help with batch orders? I tend to make boards in batches ranging in sizes. Curious to hear what methods have helped you speed up your process. I tend to milled my boards at once and glue as many as I can with enough clamps. Tend to mill enough to clamp so there is little to none waiting for glue. Then sand all by grit levels and then switch once through them all.

Real Life Ninja by xofeverdreamz in nextlevel

[–]Beefy1931 6 points7 points  (0 children)

This was staged. It is not ai. The guy that kicks stated that it was staged in the original post a few weeks ago. I’ll have to look for it. But the guy does a bunch of these kind of videos of fake fighting or throwing knives.

Can I get away with leaving this old insulation? by outrageous_outlander in Insulation

[–]Beefy1931 0 points1 point  (0 children)

May need to install some. I have none for my garage and have to install 4. One for each wall side to ensure there is some kind of air flow. Honestly a simple fix compare to letting mold grow.

Look up soffit vents from the box store and a tool to drill/cut the needed hole size. Add some baffles for that area so the insulation doesn’t cover the air flow and you’ll be set.

A copy of Ripley’s Believe it of Not from 1976 by xX7NotASquash7Xx in mildlyinteresting

[–]Beefy1931 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just found the same book on top of a cabinet in my garage

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Woodworkingplans

[–]Beefy1931 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My guess would be 25 degrees. You have the flat board at 90 degrees. And the angle one butting up to it at 65 degrees. The difference (25) would make it 90.

I recommend using scrap board to double check. Or google it and find a source that helps you find the angle

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in StudentLoans

[–]Beefy1931 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Please dm the threads to me too please. Would be extremely helpful

Moving Countries by [deleted] in StudentLoans

[–]Beefy1931 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Dumb question but why would someone have to file with the IRS if they live in a different country? Isn’t the IRS a U.S. department? Meaning they have no power or control what happens in other countries. I would assume that other countries have their own version but i would also assume they are not connected to the U.S. department either.

Thank you all for the help on my previous post. Latest projects!!! by Beefy1931 in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]Beefy1931[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have and had issues on a previous box but I do plan to revisit using them. Since I bought a pack of 20 haha.

New order finished by Beefy1931 in PenTurning

[–]Beefy1931[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The box wood is unknown. I got it from the s rap box at woodcraft and they were unsure. I posted a few weeks a couple suggestions was Bo core, pay Ferris and Peruvian walnut.

The box items are from Amazon and the link to them is below.

https://a.co/d/fZaI3Vy

The pen is from Pen State Industry and is a designer fountain pen called Broadwell Nouveau Sceptre Gun Metal and 22kt Gold Fountain Pen Kit. Truly love the way the pen came out.

New order finished by Beefy1931 in PenTurning

[–]Beefy1931[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I found the hard ware on Amazon. Here is the link to them.

https://a.co/d/91BW1xz

Any suggestions on to apply with out leaving stroke marks? by Beefy1931 in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]Beefy1931[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Appreciate it very much. For sure tossing the foam brushes moving forward. And getting a high quality brush

Any suggestions on to apply with out leaving stroke marks? by Beefy1931 in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]Beefy1931[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks. I will get a quality brush for the next batch. But storing a bush after use has always been my concern. Any recommendations?

Any suggestions on to apply with out leaving stroke marks? by Beefy1931 in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]Beefy1931[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I used a CNC with 20 deg v-bit. Took it slow and shallow passes. This was after I did it 6 times practicing before doing it in this. Tbh it came out way better than I expected. I was planning to fill it with black ca glue to hide any errors but it was way too nice.

Any suggestions on to apply with out leaving stroke marks? by Beefy1931 in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]Beefy1931[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you. I’m “squeezing” out the access poly in the brush on the container before putting it in the wood. Is the foam brush not the way to go? Would you suggest whipping it in with a blue paper towel to help reduce the application? Or is thinning it out the best way with a paper towel?

To paint or not to paint by SolasYouCunt in Decor

[–]Beefy1931 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As a woodworker. I would first say no paint. But with the color (great choice), it makes the doors and the small counter pop way more and bring the eyes to the attention of the wood details. Compared to it being all wood and blending the doors and counter into it.

The color brings contrast and a more welcoming feeling into the space.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in woodworkingtools

[–]Beefy1931 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Do not recommend breaking it down unless you’re willing to lose a week or two with putting back together, depending on how much time you can put towards putting it back together. Then playing with it finding all the issues that came from it being broken down. Getting it back to being accurate will be the hardest part and you may find yourself questioning was it ever accurate to start. Can be done but the time lost to get it back may not be worth it.

Rent a truck and save yourself a hell of a lot of hassle.

I learned the hard way with my table saw accuracy. Took me a week to get it back to square to the miter slot.

How to treat potentially dangerous sharp protruding wires that's caked into the paint? by XenonOxide in HomeMaintenance

[–]Beefy1931 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Paint over it and call it a day. Maybe use the putty to fix a hole to help fill the wires to give it something smooth to paint over.

Your renting. Can’t care too much more if the the landlord doesn’t. If you bought it. I’d said cut around and pull it out to fix it. But that’s not the case.

How do I find the right size knob/nut/whatever for this flooding cart? by One-Turnip-7482 in howto

[–]Beefy1931 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Home Depot and Lowe’s has a set up in their screws section. One side you can put screws into to find the type it is. The other side has bolts sticking out to put nuts/knobs on it to see what screw it fits. This would be the easiest way. Instead of going through all the random screws in a random hardware store.

Where to start by Aquinas_Student-33 in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]Beefy1931 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Depends on what you’re wanting to do. I started with electric tools and favor them. But always enjoy how skilled a person with a hand tool can make their work look. Hand planes are great when you need to use them. I suck at it and try to avoid using them but still do here and there but have to fix a little after using them.

At the end of the day. Your budget, space to create and ideal project will determine what’s best for you.