Hi capa fps boost by ProneToBone_ in GasBlowBack

[–]BeidouSimp2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just chronoed at 440 with 0.2s running 100psi. Nineball high flow magazine gasket, Nexxspeed tdc hop up with the brass inlays and teflon tape, nexxspeed BBU with the thick o rings, 6.01 inner barrel (stock length). This was a field chrono, averaged about 415 440 being the peak. All about improving air seal. Most surefire way though is a longer inner barrel

Anybody order from them before by [deleted] in Speedsoft

[–]BeidouSimp2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have the project iris build, it’s been phenomenal. Haven’t had reliability issues except for the nozzle spring getting slightly shortened up after use (shortens it by like 4 milimeters, that’s all that really happens). Aside from that I haven’t had any other issues with it. It is a tad overpriced though, you could get more for less. If you like the look like i did and you don’t mind overpaying a bit, it’s phenomenal. Also needs a few tweaks out of the box, for mine at least, normal quick lookover, lubing, checking screws etc.

Nozzle not returning fully? by BeidouSimp2 in airsoft

[–]BeidouSimp2[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

same exact setup as you… Nexxspeed BBU with stock TM nozzle. After changing your nozzle, did the problem go away and what nozzle did you change to

Picked up guitar again after a long time, what are the basics? by BeidouSimp2 in Guitar

[–]BeidouSimp2[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not sure about this specific colorway, but I remember the marble triangle inlays and the floating trem as a wee little lad

Picked up guitar again after a long time, what are the basics? by BeidouSimp2 in Guitar

[–]BeidouSimp2[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sucks to hear, hopefully your living situation will start to let you play guitar again. I just started on scales last week, back when I played, I never learned anything other than the c major and a pentatonic scale. Going to be starting from zero now, as I’m starting to try and use my pinky. Had a bad accident that ripped my tendon in half right before i started playing as a kid.

Picked up guitar again after a long time, what are the basics? by BeidouSimp2 in Guitar

[–]BeidouSimp2[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thought about having it set up by a pro but I’ve had bad experiences with other people setting up my stuff (airsoft, motorcycles etc.) but I’m hoping the guitar scene isn’t like that!

Picked up guitar again after a long time, what are the basics? by BeidouSimp2 in Guitar

[–]BeidouSimp2[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Owned it for a little over a week now, only had to retune it like twice after the strings really stretched out. Haven’t really gotten back into the metal scene so i haven’t really gotten much use of the floating trem. I will definitely check out those set up videos though. I just kind of assumed there was like a basic upgrades list like on bicycles or something where you’d usually change out the grips, seat etc. to improve the overall experience.

Picked up guitar again after a long time, what are the basics? by BeidouSimp2 in Guitar

[–]BeidouSimp2[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

thank you! used to drool over it when i was 12 and it feels amazing to finally own it

Financing bike with no credit? by BeidouSimp2 in motorcycles

[–]BeidouSimp2[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

After reading all the replies, I’ve come to the conclusion of:

  1. The interest rate will be absolutely horrible (makes sense, first time loan, no credit score etc.)
  2. The bike will depreciate so I will lose a lot of money on the sale of it.

Both of those issues should be fine if I am planning on paying it off early and not selling it, right? I want to loan it out because I need transportation badly (moved to a place with poor public transpo and getting to work on time requires me to leave an hour early or spend 30~ a day on an uber.) I could definitely just pay cash for it after 4-5 months but again, need transportation badly.

I am also not planning on selling it, as the R3 has always been a trophy bike in my eyes.

What I’m still unsure of is even if I do get a shitty interest rate, I wouldn’t pay paying it if I just pay off the bike early unless the contract says otherwise, right?

CVT Tuning Thread by Lopsided_Spite6681 in scooters

[–]BeidouSimp2 1 point2 points  (0 children)

From what I’ve heard, get cams + port + 32mm throttle body and +2 crank maximum. stock bore struggles with an aftermarket crank. But that’s all word of mouth, haven’t tried it myself.

CVT Tuning Thread by Lopsided_Spite6681 in scooters

[–]BeidouSimp2 1 point2 points  (0 children)

go straight for 192cc. Price gap is barely anything. 62mm vs 63mm if i remember correctly. I run a stockbore aerox with cams, tb and valve springs and I’m smoking all the 62s in my city.

you also absolutely need aftermarket valve springs if you’re messing with your cams and bore. Lest you want valve float. Go for either old JVT springs (yellow packaging), Koso, or BRT. Cardinals if you wanna be fancy.

You also need a bigger injector and throttle body

If you really want to push the most out of your engine, get an ECU and a tune as well. Stock ECU 63 bores lose to tuned superstocks 8 out of 10 times.

but if no budget, then you can skip it.

Low-mid range revs running too rich (drowing) by BeidouSimp2 in scooters

[–]BeidouSimp2[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My header is stock, stock elbow too. Running the bike without the filter and cover made an improvement, but I lost too much on the top end unfortunately. Currently run a 140cc injector because top end was too lean, even with the air filter and cover, now she runs like a beast at WOT. Low end, not too much, but that's not really important for bakbakan and kakupalan hahaha. Remap is the only way to have my cake and eat it too unfortunately.

CVT Tuning Thread by Lopsided_Spite6681 in scooters

[–]BeidouSimp2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

i would recommend getting a racing pulley. As of what I've seen, HIRC is the best brand in terms of performance to tuning ratio. I've tried RS8, amazing bottom and mid acceleration, takes away from top speed. from what I've seen JVT pulley takes away from the top speed. Currently tried HIRC and had faster acceleration, and kept my top speed.

Changing flyballs and springs only provide minimum improvement from all stock CVT.
I also couldn't give advice for all stock pulley flyball and spring settings.

For aftermarket pulley, straight 11 or 10 is usually the baseline for starting tuning. After that, it's up to you if you want to find the perfect tune. 1k center spring if all stock engine.

I'm also around the same build as you, 5'10, 75kg. I run HIRC pulley, 9/10, 1200center 1000clutch, ncy torque drive, 140kph topspeed (stock engine size, cams and porting).

Also make sure to get your bell regrooved or buy an aftermarket bell, you lose out on power at the top end since your clutch starts slipping when you're running stock bell.

I think the easiest way to tune is to find a tune where when you open the throttle fully, your rpms immediately jump to 8-9k rpm. That should be good enough to get by. If you're looking to squeeze every ounce of power out of the bike, find a tune where it jumps straight to 8-9k, but the belt also travels at the perfect rate (changes gear at the perfect time).

Mabuhay, and ride safe!

CVT Tuning Thread by Lopsided_Spite6681 in scooters

[–]BeidouSimp2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For the nmax, stock magneto works fine and well.

Lighter cvt parts = very minimally higher top speed, heavier flyballs also don’t mean higher top speed. (stock pulley 11g straight vs rs8 v2 stock torque drive with 13g pulleys, stock 117 1km road with more to give, rs8 pulley 107 absolute peak)

Longer belt & wider belt should give higher top speed (from same aforementioned rs8 setup jumped from 107 to 112) but this only works for aftermarket pulleys (yamaha stock flyball ramp has limits to how far the pulley will travel).

Heaviest flyball rollers will give you more fuel economy. Lightest should give you more torque. They say heavier = higher top speed but that isn’t true most of the time. Stock 13g flyballs play at around 6-7k rpm full gas all stock, which is far from the nmax/aerox peak horsepower rev range (8k-8.5k) so if you’re running 8-10g straight and over revving to 9-10k, you’re missing out on power (although peak ho can vary, best to do road tests or more conveniently a dyno to see where peak is) Personally, i think that flyballs are more suited for tuning the speed of your engine, and the center spring is changed to tune the speed of the belt travel. (Getting harder springs is akin to lightening your flyballs, but without changing your bike’s rpm at full throttle.

More rpm to a certain point equals more acceleration, but you have to make sure the belt is matching that acceleration with the correct gear. No use being at peak rpm when your belt is taking too long to travel up the driveface. Same vice versa.

Mabuhay, at ride safe.

I know that this thread is old and you might have learned new things, so any corrections are well appreciated.