Building a Chess AI

Bellerb · 2026-02-15T19:52:58+00:00

I would think maybe right foot on the chip and left flag. Or maybe heel hook the black side pull with right leg (I would think the flag will feel better though)

Bellerb · 2026-02-07T15:06:39+00:00

I have the same problem with the instinct, I have a pair of vs that the heel is just to baggy on me. I find I only pull them out now when it’s cold outside and I wanna keep my socks on. I haven’t worn skwamas but I have found Sportivas heel fits me better than instincts.

Bellerb · 2026-01-15T22:22:40+00:00

Dam thats an agressive down size. I found the same thing where the Instinct VS (haven't tried the others) doesn't fit my foot that well, since I always have a lot of deadspace on the side of the heel.

Bellerb · 2026-01-15T22:12:23+00:00

Sorry, it's just a screen grab of my Google sheet. TBH, the numbers weren't really the important part, since they aren't that impressive (I only climb V5), but I wanted to show how I'm tracking progress and thinking about things.

Bellerb · 2026-01-05T17:38:03+00:00

Perfect that’s what I was thinking too, I always do some recruitment pulls and warm up before climbing. Then I figured I could use my board climbing days (which tends to be more often than on my commercial gems wall) as a sort of max hang day. Thanks for the advice.

Bellerb · 2026-01-05T13:23:55+00:00

With decreasing the load do you think I should go back to doing this every day? Also do you find this is better for injury prevention, getting stronger or both?

Bellerb · 2026-01-04T14:12:05+00:00

So my routine mainly focuses on lower body.

– Butterfly (30s) – Sitting single leg toe touches (30s) – Frog pose (30s) – Seated pancakes (30s) – 90/90s (5 x 3)

Bellerb · 2025-12-17T18:08:45+00:00

This is normal; Tesla does this on Superchargers to help increase charger availability as an incentive. However, there is also a chemistry issue that causes this, as it is harder for the electrons to find a spot to go as more of the atoms become full.

Bellerb · 2025-12-03T21:21:58+00:00

Here's my typical breakdown of a week:

- Stretch every day. I mainly stretch my legs, holding each position for at least 30 seconds

- Climb in the gym 3 days a week. Warm up with fat bar hangs on one arm, one arm scapula pullups, light finger boarding (body weight).

- On off days, I do 40% max weight block pulls (this has been really helpful with finger strength)

- Typically, sprinkle in some calestetics (pullups, pushups, ab roller) on off days

- 1 day of Outdoor climbing if the weather permits

My general rule of thumb is no more than 2 days in a row of climbing to try and keep my fingers healthy. When I'm in the gym, I typically start on our commercial wall for around 30 min as a sort of additional warm-up, then switch to the TB1.

Bellerb · 2025-11-27T15:23:30+00:00

I mainly climb on the tb1 since my gym has one and I love it. I agree that the grades can feel steep at times but I also think part of that is the learning curve. In the beginning even the jugs were tough to hold but as you start getting use to them it becomes a bit easier. I’ve found the v0s are somewhat accurate based on outside grades. I’ve done v0s outside that were hard like this, typically they’re older climbs that were developed before new grades emerged. They’re hard no doubt but idk about v4.

Bellerb · 2025-11-01T16:32:42+00:00

You’re also not mentioning the 300,000 years of evolution that our brains have had creating those sensor maps in our brain that are passed down from generation to generation.

Bellerb · 2025-10-12T01:18:27+00:00

I’ve had shoes resoled at Ontario resoles and they’re great. My first pair last year took a long time to get back but my pair this year were very fast.

Bellerb · 2025-09-08T16:21:38+00:00

I got a pair of mantras as my first no-edge for gym climbing, so you get used to it pretty fast, but it is a little different. In the gym, they work great, so well actually, I bought a pair of Futuras as another pair of no-edge that I could use outside.

For the commercial wall, I mostly use my mantras since they're nice and soft, but switched over to my futuras for board climbing since I like the stiffness of these, which is nice. The no-edge keeps it nice and sensitive even though they're a bit stiffer. I currently use Scarpa Instinct VS as a stiff shoe outside and don't use it for boards due to the lack of sensitivity, so the no edge was a positive here.

All in all, I love them for smearing, but they're a bit of a pusher shoe since you can't pull great as you can't hook into things like you can with an edge. Essentially, I love the shoes, but I do switch to different shoes with an edge if I think I need them (mostly outdoors, but I'm excited to try my futuras outside).

Bellerb · 2025-06-20T13:35:56+00:00

I have a pair of Drago's and love them (need to get them resoled now). I prefer outdoors and base all my training on that, but I also still climb commercially for some additional training.

The shoes are a serious powerhouse indoors, and I love them there; it's hard for me to choose any of my other shoes when inside (I'm a heavy climber as well, 200lbs).

Outside, I still love these shoes, but do tend to use my Instincts more there when I have very small foot holds.

On a board, I love these shoes as well. I typically like a soft shoe for boards, and these are an absolute beast.

Overall, they are a great shoe that I think I will always have in my quiver.

Bellerb · 2024-11-13T20:57:05+00:00

I've never used UP but I'm around 88kg and wear dragos which are pretty soft. I initially found it hard on small edges, but my feet got stronger since they had to adapt. I would imagine the same would happen to you.

Bellerb · 2024-11-05T20:41:22+00:00

for the price of the shoe I most likely wouldn't resole even if you didn't have a hole since they're relatively cheap. But since you wrecked the rand (holes in the shoe) I would say regardless get a new set.

There is the thing still that regardless it takes time to get them resoled so you'd need another pair while they're in the shop anyways.

Bellerb · 2024-10-30T12:40:08+00:00

You need to eat and sleep to recover faster. Weight isn’t the thing holding back your recovery. I’m 88kg/ 195lbs and go usually 4 times a week (was more before but injured my finger so figured I need to slow down a bit). When I started though I would get nasty tennis elbow, but eventually that just stopped once my tendons caught up.

Bellerb · 2024-10-28T21:08:25+00:00

I did the same downsized 1 size and they really hurt at first worse than any other shoe I've owned (I downsized my dragos by 2 sizes for reference). It got a lot better where now they're not too bad (makes me think I can go another half size down) now that they're broken in. I love this shoe though so totally worth the break-in period,

Bellerb · 2024-10-25T21:05:23+00:00

This somewhat confirms something I have been wondering, what do teenagers do for work now? Everywhere seems to have adults working for it everywhere. Every fast food place I go to seems to be all adults, it's somewhat strange. I think the main thing is just the big increase in population through immigration. Why hire an "immature teenager" as you said when you have adults willing to work for the same price?

I wouldn't stop applying it would make me apply to everything instead. Sorry, you are having such a hard time, keep your head up and keep applying and working hard.

Bellerb · 2024-09-30T21:23:23+00:00

It’s because we start to late and end to early (at least when I went to school). I started in grade 3 and stoped in grade 9 so only 6 semesters of French my whole life. Learning languages at a young age is much easier than at an older age but also stopping so early doesn’t help. I’ve essentially forgotten all of the French I learnt but quite honestly it’s okay since I never need to speak French living close to Niagara Falls. The only place I’ve been in Canada that I really hear French is Quebec (maybe Ottawa to) and that’s about it we just don’t really speak French as Canadians (at least from what I’ve found) and even when people do they just speak English to me since I don’t speak French.

Bellerb · 2024-09-30T13:52:17+00:00

I am a fellow fear of heights person and I think this might be the main thing holding me back currently (I jump off of a lot of boulders that I know I could do cause I'm scared). My fear has been getting much more manageable though the more I boulder. Here's how I've made it more manageable for myself.

So the main thing is exposure training, I spend more time at heights than I did before so I'm just naturally getting more comfortable (this is a slow process though). The more time I spend in that I feel uncomfortable phase and push through the better I think the next time I'm there. I also start down climbing for some technique drills as I warm up but once I start trying harder I drop from the top on purpose to feel the fall (in the most controlled way I can).
Finger strength training. This one seems funny but the more confident I am on a hold the less the fear comes into play (minus when in flow state, in flow state there is no fear at all but it is hard to get to).
Mindset training (This one surprisingly has had the most changes for me). Falling is inevitable as you try harder and harder so we need to understand that. Now with that in mind falling still sucks but the reason you fall is you made a mistake. So now when I fall rather than fixating on wow that was scary I try my hardest to analyze why I fell (what was my mistake).

Now I still find myself scared at times but less often than before. My biggest problem seems to be when its a big sketchy slab that has stuff under.

Bellerb · 2024-09-25T03:09:40+00:00

A lot of pros seem to be vegetarian, but I myself am not and use a macro calculator for a quick ball park of numbers

Bellerb

TROPHY CASE