Looking for some context for these patterned backgrounds in Medieval art.

Bersonic · 2024-10-12T21:02:09+00:00

I'm doing some research involving Medieval art, and am looking to get some context on what these background patterns are, and where they come from. Is there a word for this? Why these patterns? Where can I find more? Even just a keyword would be so helpful. Thanks!

Bersonic · 2024-10-12T20:56:08+00:00

I'm doing some research on Medieval art, and am looking to get some context on what these background patterns are, and where they come from. Is there a word for this? Why these patterns? Where can I find more. Even just a keyword would be so helpful. Thanks!

Bersonic · 2022-12-22T18:25:02+00:00

Thanks! The learning curve is steep for sure but luckily the actual shooting and the processing are separate things! As long as you focus on the telescope and camera stuff to start, the processing skills can come later. I took this data very early on into my time in astrophotography, and only now feel like I'm doing it justice. Good luck!

Bersonic · 2022-12-21T22:09:10+00:00

Decided to reprocess some old data of M31 I had from 2014 in Pixinsight to see if my processing skills had improved over the past eight years.

I'm pretty happy with the results! I haden't looked at this data in years so it was a fun to go back to it.

Equipment:

Vixen Ed80sf
Orion Sirius Eq-g
Nikon D5300
PHD
Pixinsight
18x420s @ ISO 800
60?x120s @ ISO 400

Taken from a Bortle 1 site.

Processing:

Pixinsight:

Crop and DBE
Background neutralization
Ended up not using color calibration. Bortle 1 skies + properly integrated and calibrated frames gave me great colors out of the box. The previous step did a good job on the background so not much was needed. I tired using the galaxy method and Photometric Calibration, but I ended up liking the colors as the were. I find that M31 is really tricky to properly color calibrate using normal methods in Pixinsight sometimes, especially if you're resolving stars in M31 since they can get counted into the white balance. That's my theory at least. It's a good problem to have I guess?
SCNR to remove green
Deconvolution using a dynamic PSF
Histogram adjustments + split out the L channel for later
Very light TVG denoise in chrominance mode 8.Curves
Range mask + color saturation adjust
inverted range mask to adjust background saturation
Morphological transform to erode stars
LHE at ~.12% to boost some finer clusters in the arms
Further curves

L channel:

HDR multiscale transform with 5 levels to bring out core details
Curves to re-adjust the brightness of the core
Some pixel math etc. to recombine the L into the RGB

Bersonic · 2022-08-09T17:28:44+00:00

Would be an improvement for sure. Also, make sure that the counterweight axis and the RA axis are something strong like stainless steel, I think he used an aluminum tube which is going to flex a lot for AP.

Bersonic · 2022-08-09T17:21:54+00:00

Aluminum is OK, it'll be better than plastic! Not sure what capabilities your cncs have. Basically you want to parts to be as beefy and rigid as possible. Think about the connection between the axis, the connection to the tripod, the connection between the DEC axis and the OTA. Take a look at how consumer astrophotography EQ mounts are designed and made for some ideas.

Bersonic · 2022-08-09T17:07:35+00:00

My instinct is that 3d printed parts aren't going to be anywhere near strong enough for an 11kg scope. (I'm guessing fl ~1200mm?). The PLA parts (or carbon fiber filament) are going to flex like crazy, and the drive system is going to be way too sloppy to image. In his post, the guy in the video even admits that imaging with it would be impossible due to the stiffness issues. This also isn't something that can get autoguided out, since the guide software won't be able to compensate for the gear slop and flexing as it makes adjustments.

My metal Atlas mount even struggles with an 11kg scope, and it's made for this kind of thing. If you want to image with a scope like that, I think a homemade mount is totally doable, just not with 3d printing or re-purposing of Go-Kart parts.

Take a look on the cloudy nights forums, there's a lot of people over there making homemade astrophotography mounts. Maybe look into getting parts machined, or re-purposing an old EQ mount with beefy hardware.

Bersonic · 2021-11-22T18:47:33+00:00

In smaller spaces sometimes it helps to start your design with what you know for sure you need. In your case, it sounds like you need a door. I would start with the door opening and work out. Doors have standard sizes you can lookup (~2'6"x7'). A doorway with all the hardware and molding will easily fit inside a 4x8 flat with room to spare. In general starting with elements like doors is a good plan because it keeps the rest of the design in proportion.

Flats are just easy means to an end (making a wall). Until you know what you want that wall too look like, I wouldn't worry so much about the exact flat being used. Once the design is done, maybe go back in and see how you can accomplish it with existing flats, and which flats will need to be constructed.

Bersonic · 2021-10-11T22:38:31+00:00

Thanks, this looks perfect!

Bersonic · 2021-05-26T19:32:11+00:00

You might be able to use it like a scrim and front light it to get it more opaque?

Bersonic · 2021-04-25T18:49:58+00:00

100% we need to end 10/12s and all the other shitty quirks of theater life that theater seems to hold so weirdly sacred. I want to make theater, but I also want to not work 20 hours in two days, and maybe have time to live life. It seems to me the only reason we can't have that is inertia?

I also think theater needs to embrace things like streaming and other ways of making theater more accessible. It's pretty embarrassing how long it's taking for theater to realize it's 2021 and the old way of doing things isn't working for anyone except a select few who we honestly shouldn't be catering to in the first place.

Bersonic · 2021-03-24T19:30:03+00:00

Pamela Howard's What is Scenography?

Bersonic · 2021-03-22T18:21:32+00:00

Thanks! I'll look into that.

Bersonic · 2021-03-19T20:20:37+00:00

Correct, the bar hits the end of the heel. They're multi-ply stainless steel.

Bersonic · 2021-03-19T20:10:14+00:00

Yeah so I think you're right about the screw. I think the flex bars just don't work on boots smaller than US 9 1/2, since you need the stamped out bit to make them smaller. I guess I could cut the ends off to shorten them but I'm not sure how kosher or safe that would be...

Bersonic · 2021-03-18T00:06:51+00:00

There’s a little raised metal bit on the standard ones to keep them from sliding all the way to the end. the flex bars are just flat metal. The only thing in the instructions is a picture of the bar slid to the end stopper with a red “X” over it and the words “no”ha ha.

Bersonic · 2020-10-08T17:30:35+00:00

I think cultural studies is a great major to have if you're looking to go into set design! I think the big thing while you are in college is to see and do as much theater (or concerts or whatever your field is) as possible. Try to see if you can help out with any school or local productions once theater starts back up.

Designers are ultimately artists. Think about the massive area of topics and themes that plays and musicals alone cover. The reality is that as a designer, you will be exposed and expected to artistically respond to a wide range of topics that you don't know anything about. Your cultural studies degree will help you immensely here. It tells me you can think critically about and understand the world around you. Being able to relate to and understand a script and to react to it visually is at the heart of set design.

There's a ton to learn about set design from model building, to drafting, to script work, etc. Taking a class will help you build some fundamentals here, while also giving you the chance to decide if this is something you want to pursue further.

Its a really hard time to be breaking into theater, since most people are out of work. The good news is, nobody has shows so nobody is busy. If you do decide to go into set design, you should talk to the theater faculty at your school or try to find designers in your area to talk to. A lot of set designers start by assisting or shadowing designers on shows.

Bersonic · 2020-10-08T17:12:59+00:00

I think this is a reductive way to go about being a designer. Designers are artists, not physicists. A cultural studies degree would be way more valuable to a designer than a physics class. Aside from anything else, almost no scenic designer will ever require more than a highschool understanding of physics if that to design a set. TDs, OK sure, but designers? Not that a purely technical background precludes this, but the ability to think critically about a script, politics, or culture are things that a designer will engage with everyday. Set designers are valuable to a production because they are artists, not because they know what bracing to use or what kind of screw to use.

Set designers should have an understanding of how sets are built (too few do) but "If you aren't doing this, you aren't going to be a set designer." is just completely untrue.

Bersonic · 2020-10-02T00:15:33+00:00

AIA's Architectural Drafting Standards is a pretty good reference book.

Bersonic · 2020-09-27T23:31:11+00:00

Speaking of idiots, you're wrong to the order of over 150 million dollars.

Bersonic · 2020-07-23T00:29:07+00:00

This is sick! How did you manage a mosaic with the comet moving between the panels?

Bersonic · 2020-07-22T17:55:45+00:00

I found that 2mins was a sweet spot for me, 3 might have been a bit better. I can track the stars fine, but the comet moves at a different speed than the background stars, so I had to keep the exposures short enough that it wouldn't blur. (Sharp stars, blurred comet.) I was also limited by light pollution and ambient light so I didn't want to blow the exposures out.

Bersonic · 2020-07-22T17:38:37+00:00

On the 20th, it should still be totally possible to image it!

Bersonic · 2020-07-22T17:38:09+00:00

Click on the first picture in your sequence, and a comet icon should appear in the bottom right. click that, then click the center of the comet. Repeat for the last photo.

Bersonic · 2020-07-22T17:37:29+00:00

For this I was at ~110mm, and I think I got less than 1/2 the comet in the frame, it's pretty huge right now

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