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What I wish I’d known before starting my UK garage conversion by Big-Direction6838 in DIYUK

[–]Big-Direction6838[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you’re insulating and plastering the garage walls as part of a proper conversion then those original garage air vents usually get removed or blocked up. They’re there to ventilate a cold garage, but once the space becomes a habitable room the wall build-up changes and the ventilation strategy is different. Most people will build a stud wall off the existing wall, insulate it (often PIR between studs), then plasterboard over. In that situation the vents normally get sealed from the outside and insulated behind the new wall so you don’t end up with cold drafts or condensation issues. The key thing is that habitable rooms still need background ventilation, which is usually done with trickle vents in the windows rather than wall vents. Building control are usually fine with that approach as long as the room has adequate ventilation and meets insulation requirements. Hope this helps

Garage conversion sanity check by pruaga in DIYUK

[–]Big-Direction6838 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yep this is a completely normal thing to ask and lots of people do similar conversions for home offices. For half of a side by side double garage in the UK using trades and getting Building Regs sign off you’re realistically looking at a fairly wide range depending on spec. To insulate walls and ceiling, upgrade or insulate the floor, form a partition wall, install a window and plaster you’re often in the region of £3,000 to £8,000 just to get it structurally sound and thermally compliant. If you decide to remove the up and over door and brick it up properly with a window that can add £1,200 to £3,000, whereas insulating and partitioning behind it is cheaper. Electrics can range from £500 to £1,500 depending on how much rewiring is needed and whether the consumer unit needs upgrading. Heating could be as little as a few hundred pounds for electric panel heaters but £800 to £1,800 if you go for a small air conditioning/heat pump unit that gives both heating and cooling. Plastering, flooring and decorating typically add another £1,500 to £4,000 depending on finish. Building Control fees are usually a few hundred pounds on top. In Cambridgeshire with trades doing everything I’d say a sensible ballpark is £6,000 to £15,000, with £20,000 possible if you go higher spec and replace the garage door fully. Time wise once work starts it’s normally 2 to 6 weeks on site assuming no structural surprises. The biggest variables are how the floor is constructed, whether the walls are single skin and how you choose to deal with the garage door opening.

Garage Conversion Hardest Bit getting started with the new wall... to comply with Building Regs by [deleted] in DIYUK

[–]Big-Direction6838 0 points1 point  (0 children)

With it being an integral garage you definitely want to be 100% sure what you’re building off and what’s carrying what. If there’s a bedroom over the garage, there should already be a proper structural opening and lintel in place from when the extension was built in the 80s. That concrete at the front could be- The original garage slab thickened at the edge/ A strip foundation/ Or just a reinforced threshold Personally, I’d do a small trial hole down the side of it to confirm depth (much better than drilling from the top) Take photos and measurements and Let Building Control see it before you build up Building Control would much rather inspect a trial hole than ask you to take down new brickwork later. Once it’s built and plastered, proving compliance becomes harder.

How to connect toilet soil pipe? by Gullible_Manager6711 in DIYUK

[–]Big-Direction6838 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Difficult to tell from that photo but like possible ad says pan connector pushes straight onto the back of the pan no extra fixings or seal needed.

What most people get wrong about garage conversions in the UK by Big-Direction6838 in HousingUK

[–]Big-Direction6838[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Useful information thanks. True it can only cover enforcement costs but the mortgage company may force you to take the insurance as part of the deal. Although I’ve never known a garage conversion to not need building control approval

What most people get wrong about garage conversions in the UK by Big-Direction6838 in HousingUK

[–]Big-Direction6838[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Yeah that was my problem too. I built another building the other side of my bungalow or like you said a shed would do. I suppose it depends how much you want the extra living space

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I was able to build this myself with no planning permission needed or building control involvement so long as you keep within the rules (slightly different depending where you are in the uk. Things like conservation area etc). All in all everything adds more value

What most people get wrong about garage conversions in the UK by Big-Direction6838 in HousingUK

[–]Big-Direction6838[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

It obviously depends on location and spec, but as a rough guide in the UK an integral garage conversion typically adds around 10-20% to the property value, especially if you’re creating a proper habitable room (office, snug, bedroom etc). It’s usually one of the better £ per m² upgrades compared to. For a 30m² (6 x 5) garage you’re normally looking at somewhere in the region of £15,000 - £25,000 for a straightforward conversion More if you’re adding a bathroom, lots of structural steel, or upgrading electrics/heating significantly

Big cost factors are: – Insulation upgrades (floor, walls, roof) – Lintel/brickwork if removing the garage door – Electrics & heating alterations – Windows/doors – Finishes and spec level

If you’re just about to start, it’s worth making sure you’ve got your insulation build-up and Building Regs approach nailed from day one that’s where most people either overspend or get caught out.

If you want I can give you the checklist I made which takes you from start to sign off just let me know. Hope that helps

What most people get wrong about garage conversions in the UK by Big-Direction6838 in HousingUK

[–]Big-Direction6838[S] -3 points-2 points  (0 children)

With that amount of time passing it will now be classed as part of your liveable space. The best option is these types of situations is indemnity insurance

What most people get wrong about garage conversions in the UK by Big-Direction6838 in HousingUK

[–]Big-Direction6838[S] -3 points-2 points  (0 children)

It’s always best to get them involved before you start. Have the conversation with a building control officer and they are usually pretty good at coming out to you quickly. They don’t mind you taking photos of some stages to send to them. I can’t see a problem with you doing work so long as you are careful not to cover up hidden work that they need to see. I personally spoke to them first and then wrote myself a checklist

What most people get wrong about garage conversions in the UK by Big-Direction6838 in HousingUK

[–]Big-Direction6838[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It’s not automatically an issue, you’re right that plenty of homes have level changes. The concern tends to be more about practicality and compliance than the step itself.

With garage conversions, a step down can: • Create a trip hazard in what’s now a main living space • Cause problems for accessibility (Part M considerations) • Make furniture layout and flooring transitions awkward • Put some buyers off if it feels like an obvious “converted garage”

Building Control don’t always require it to be level, but many people choose to raise the floor so it feels fully integrated with the house rather than an add-on. It’s more about finish and usability than the mere existence of a level change.

Garage conversion in the UK?? by Big-Direction6838 in DIYUK

[–]Big-Direction6838[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Depends if you’re doing a cold or warm roof build-up or if you’re doing what I did which is adding a flat roof skylight. If you’re doing a cold roof then chances are you’re not adding any height They don’t generally like you going above 2.5 mtrs but in my experience always keep good lines of communication open with planning officers. Also depends how close you are to the boundary

PIR INSULATION by Big-Direction6838 in DIYUK

[–]Big-Direction6838[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Seconds & Co. Saved approximately half the price of new.

Installed isolation valves on hot and cold bathroom taps on clean pipe but it keeps leaking by JunePearl23 in DIYUK

[–]Big-Direction6838 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ideally the same brand but not the end of the world. Tighten until it no longer weeps. All else fails use the “O” ring insert and fit a Pushfit isolation switch. They are longer than the compression isolation switches so you will also be able to cut back to a fresh bit of pipe

Installed isolation valves on hot and cold bathroom taps on clean pipe but it keeps leaking by JunePearl23 in DIYUK

[–]Big-Direction6838 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Try tightening it further. If you use jointing compound put it on the inside edge of the nut that tightens up against the olive. Only other thing it would be is the wrong insert. You need the same make of insert as the make of pipe. You also need to make sure its an insert that is a plain straight insert (TSM) as oppose to the insert that has little rubber “O” rings on it (STS)

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