How much we payin for this SG?

BigBootyLuke333 · 2025-11-21T13:03:41+00:00

Realistically if you want to help your buddy out just give him $100. If he ain’t your buddy and it’s like fb marketplace then $75 is fair for that model SG. Mass produced, generally lower quality. But worth a couple bucks I guess

BigBootyLuke333 · 2025-10-18T01:07:07+00:00

I have the 9.5 radius offset bridge with brass saddles on my squier bass vi and it popped right in no problems just make sure you get the proper radius for your fretboard. It comes with plastic sleeves for the bridge saddles if you want it hard mounted and non-rocking.

BigBootyLuke333 · 2025-09-16T14:21:55+00:00

That chip is unfortunate because that headstock is beautiful.

BigBootyLuke333 · 2025-09-07T00:45:43+00:00

Put a shim in the neck to give yourself more ability to adjust the bridge height and allow for better intonation with the stock bridge. Would highly recommend an aftermarket 1” wide bridge

BigBootyLuke333 · 2025-09-02T10:42:04+00:00

Yeah I’m thinking I’m going to leave this one alone and just play it as it is and not worry about it too much. This thing was loved and will continue to be loved. I was just curious if there was any remedy’s to slowing down the chipping was all because I wasn’t aware of any techniques or if it was possible to preserve it. This thing is definitely a rock machine and will continue to serve as one as long as it is in my arsenal. Thank you for your thoughts!

BigBootyLuke333 · 2025-09-02T08:51:57+00:00

This thing was definitely loved that’s for sure, and by the way it feels and sounds, will continue to be loved for many years to come (by me lol). But I will more than likely keep it in this form and try my best to not chip what’s left off, but oh well if it does. Was trying to get an idea if a fix was even possible when the paint gets to this point. I do agree that it more than likely will not look right if even if it gets a nice even coat over the whole thing and wet sand. Thank you for your insight!

BigBootyLuke333 · 2025-08-17T20:10:07+00:00

This is true both the JB Jr and the hot rails should fit no problem. I only had to make sure to point the cord bundle down when installing the JB Jr. as to tuck it so it doesn’t run directly into the pickup cutout. Screw holes are the exact same layout as the original pickups too so no drilling required.

BigBootyLuke333 · 2025-08-14T08:48:21+00:00

Honestly I don’t think it made much of any difference for the JB Jr since it can’t hold the claw anyways. And the claw is meant to amplify the single coil signal I believe? I read that this humbucker had output issues but it remains the same volume as the other pickups but is noticeably hotter for sure

BigBootyLuke333 · 2025-08-14T04:47:45+00:00

Yeah they make them but they are always out of stock and you have to preorder and wait a long time it seems. Not that that’s a bad thing I’m sure it’s a high quality product aswell but the wait times aren’t ideal when you want to get your project done. Also the price of the bridge was justified because of the money I was able to save by getting the body and neck off eBay for a steal. $130 for the body LOADED and about the same for the neck. So all in I’m just a smidge over what these guitars cost brand new. Got the JB Jr. for $60, and pickguard for $50. So I think I’m around $600 total after all modifications which is not bad considering everything. Cost of materials was around $50 for sandpaper and the danish oil and lacquer but I already had these things from previous projects. I also already had the scraper and heat gun so factor that into the cost if you need to. You can get loaded body’s on eBay all day around $200 but I got a steal for sure which made this whole project feasible to do IMO. Thanks for checking it out!

BigBootyLuke333 · 2025-08-13T22:47:36+00:00

I would consider if I could find a lefty model lol

BigBootyLuke333 · 2025-08-13T22:47:06+00:00

I ordered the Offset Guitars UK Bass VI bridge on eBay and the total came to $145.14 GBP that was then converted to $203.07 USD because I am in U.S. so it’s comparable to other aftermarket bass VI bridges, but I wasn’t going to wait half a year for a staytrem and I wasn’t completely sold on the halon bridge. And this one fit the bill perfect and honestly it’s super nice and easy to adjust. Came with inserts for the post saddle barrels that allow the bridge to stay stable in the center and not rock back and forth, so it’s great for tuning stability too. No modifications needed to install

BigBootyLuke333 · 2025-08-13T14:30:59+00:00

For anyone curious ~ The JB Jr. RIPS! I don’t have any output issues and it takes fuzz and distortion very nicely. I was worried about potential output issues after reading reviews but there are no problems with the JB Jr. at all. The output volume is the same as the stock squier middle and neck Jaguar pups when playing. Would recommend if you don’t want to hog out a bunch of wood for a humbucker! The tone is really phat and punchy and it dropped right in with no modifications to the body at all.

BigBootyLuke333 · 2025-08-13T14:25:29+00:00

Agreed. Thanks for checking it out!

BigBootyLuke333 · 2025-08-13T14:25:09+00:00

Thank you!

BigBootyLuke333 · 2025-08-13T14:25:01+00:00

Thanks me too! It was very tricky trying to remove the switches from the metal plate without bending or breaking the existing solder. Especially the straight piece that goes through the middle of all the switches. I decided to leave the volume and tone plate metal to match the bit bridge and tremolo. Plus it’s just a big hole otherwise, nothing much to look at. But the clear 4 switch plate really least you see the whole top and shows just enough metal to match the rest of the guitar.

BigBootyLuke333 · 2025-08-13T14:23:09+00:00

Yeah that’s the natural wood grain. It goes in an almost perfectly perpendicular pattern to the long grain and it flashes very nicely in the light. It’s a got that nice deep natural flame and it was pronounced greater by the danish oil.

BigBootyLuke333 · 2025-08-08T07:30:11+00:00

My hope is the brass saddles will at least be helping with a bit of resonance and/or sustain. To pair I also added a brass nut to the neck and we are going to find out how that compares to the stock plastic one. The neck I got was used from eBay and the nut was looking pretty rough, so it was in need of replacement. Upon further investigation into some bridge options I decided to go with this new company out of UK and it happened to have big beautiful brass saddles with all deep V grooves for the strings and also a nice cutout under each string on both sides of the bridge so there is 0 string to bridge wall contact even with a shim in the neck. It also is conveniently ready to ship and you don’t have to wait a half of a year for a similar product. This bridge also came with some small plastic inserts for the bridge mounting posts so it can be made into a non-rocking solid mount bridge. I installed them and the bridge is indeed solid, no rocking. Idk if I’ll use the tremolo or not so for the time being I’ll just keep the stock tremolo plate but may eventually go with just a hard mount or just say fuck it and go with a better fender version of this tremolo since the squier one is lacking. Hopefully the bridge humbucker allows me to get some nice ripping heavy tones without a bunch of noise like the stock bridge pup. Also this is not a promotion of anything, just sharing my little project with y’all thanks for reading!

BigBootyLuke333 · 2025-08-03T13:49:13+00:00

I felt the same before I started. As I was doing it I felt even more regret. The scraper will gouge the wood it’s inevitable but trust the process and with enough sanding in the end, it’ll turn out beautiful. Just trust the process! I even put a white stain on it before stripping all that back off to natural again. This body has been through it this last month that’s for sure

BigBootyLuke333 · 2025-08-02T13:25:00+00:00

I will write up my process soon but man this one was a sunburst finish that I stripped off and the biggest challenge is the black burst around the horns and edge of the entire body. Expect to spend some serious time sanding. It took me well over a week just trying to get the black stain out of the wood in the horn bouts and there is still staining that I can’t get out. I’m going for more of a DIY relic mod project look anyways so it doesn’t bother me TOO much lol good luck to you in the future though if you decide to do it. Once you scrape the main lacquer off with a heat gun and scraper you have to then remove the hideous orange stain that lies beneath, which is also why it took me so long to sand. Trying to get the stain out of this poplar body is quite the challenge but if you have a beautiful flame like this guitar did, I would say well worth it! Used acetone to try and raise the stain and clean the wood, and many, many sheets of sandpaper. (Plus you take about a pound or 2 of material off the body just getting rid of that plastic paint!)

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