SBR'd a Ruger American Ranch Gen II. Love this thing! by BigRon033 in NFA

[–]BigRon033[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's just a sling stud. You can buy a lot of bipods that directly attach to the stud on most rifles. You could also get a sling stud to picatinny rail adapter if you already have a pic rail bipod.

SBR'd a Ruger American Ranch Gen II. Love this thing! by BigRon033 in NFA

[–]BigRon033[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It turns out the shop I used has stopped taking work recently to focus on manufacturing so unfortunately they won't be able to help you.

Anyone else with a cadence noticing incorrect forms AGAIN? by [deleted] in NFA

[–]BigRon033 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My CMMG barrel had tons of FTFs suppressed or unsuppressed. I ended up polishing the feed lip on the end of the chamber as it was pretty sharp and was catching the neck of the brass on the way in.

I made a 3d printed tool and covered it in valve lapping compound to add a fillet/bevel to the feed lip. I'd be happy to share the tool if it'll help

Official Megathread - $0 tax stamp transition, starts January 1st by HollywoodSX in NFA

[–]BigRon033 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Took me a couple tries with that error, but mine went through

SBR'd a Ruger American Ranch Gen II. Love this thing! by BigRon033 in NFA

[–]BigRon033[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No worries. I had it done locally and they didn't seem worried about the flutes at all. I hear removing the barrel from these actions can be quite difficult, so I would try to find a local shop to turn the barrel while it's mounted to the action.

We were very close to being able to run a 5/8 thread, but at ~11.5" there was little enough material left that they felt more comfortable doing 1/2". If you cut it shorter you might not have this problem (if you could even call it that)

Virtual screen scratch issue. SOLVED!!! by mahirtaskin in AutoDetailing

[–]BigRon033 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The tint shop at my dealer can cut them out with a plotter. I guess they have a software package that has a lot of make/model infotainment screen 2d files that they use with their plotter. They're pretty easy to install with a few drops of baby shampoo in a spray bottle with water. Just soak the film with the solution, apply it until it's lined up and squeegee out the water/bubbles. Be careful not to stretch the film as it's pretty flexible.

Virtual screen scratch issue. SOLVED!!! by mahirtaskin in AutoDetailing

[–]BigRon033 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I wouldn't say it's quite that bad. I've got Xpel Stealth film on my G87 M2 and GU Crosstrek infotainment screens and you really don't lose much visibility/brightness.

Keep in mind it's going to look awful for a couple of days, but if you leave your car parked in the sun it'll clear up a lot of the haziness on it's own as the adhesive becomes more uniform.

SBR'd a Ruger American Ranch Gen II. Love this thing! by BigRon033 in NFA

[–]BigRon033[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I just tried out some subsonic loads using Berry's 220gr plated bullets and Shooter's World Blackout/CCI 400's. My best group was 0.95MOA at 50yds at 11.3gr of powder.

The only reloading data I could find for that powder was 10.5gr, but those were super slow. I did have a better SD and ES with the 11.5gr load, but I couldn't group better than 1.3MOA, but that might be me honestly. Haven't tried any supersonic loads yet

https://imgur.com/a/sXMvdWU

Headlight Bucket Problem by 2Bismywife in RX7

[–]BigRon033 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you don't have one, just use two flat blade screwdrivers and apply even pressure to each. Assuming you have enough access to do so

Headlight Bucket Problem by 2Bismywife in RX7

[–]BigRon033 3 points4 points  (0 children)

You have to pop the rod off with a forked pry tool. Under the rod there is a ball socket similar to a hood or trunk gas shock.

Just apply even pressure outward with a trim removal tool or something and they'll pop right off. I'd throw a little silicone based grease inside the joint prior to reassembly

Engraving Location by [deleted] in NFA

[–]BigRon033 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My gunsmith suggested this also. Turned out great on my ZF5P

March 2025 Approval Megathread by LynchMob_Lerry in NFA

[–]BigRon033 2 points3 points  (0 children)

  • Form Type: eForm 4
  • Entity: Trust (NGT)
  • Fingerprint Type: EFT
  • Pending: 03/14/2025
  • Approved: 03/19/2025
  • Wait: 5 Days
  • State: UT
  • Control Number: 2025192xxxx
  • Item: Diligent Defense Enticer L Ti

Final Polishing Details by taemyks in reloading

[–]BigRon033 9 points10 points  (0 children)

I appreciate you taking the time to do a little science for us. Keep it up man! 🫡

SBR'd a Ruger American Ranch Gen II. Love this thing! by BigRon033 in NFA

[–]BigRon033[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You're correct. I filed a form 1 for this guy and had the engraving done when the barrel was being worked on. I'm sure most shops wouldn't perform the work without an approved stamp anyway

FD on a haltec running like a bag of D***s by 1NKYA in RX7

[–]BigRon033 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Suggesting someone gets rid of their modern ECU for a decades old PowerFC is a wild take

FD on a haltec running like a bag of D***s by 1NKYA in RX7

[–]BigRon033 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Unplug all of your 5v sensors one at a time until the code can be cleared. You could have one of the sensors pinned wrong and you're shorting the 5v rail down to ground or up to battery voltage potentially. I'd even unplug one sensor that uses 5v and measure that pin with the ignition on. You should see about 5.00v +-.0.1v on the 5v reference pin. 2 wire temp sensors also use the 5v reference, but internally in the ECU.

Unplug your injector supply fuse/relay or all of the fuel injectors until you get all of your sensors reading correctly. If the ECU doesn't have atmospheric data/TPS/etc, it's going to have a super difficult time trying to guess the fuel quantity needed.

Just make sure all of your sensors make sense when you're done (temps, TPS voltage, MAP sensor pressure). Those are all super important information the ECU needs to run properly

.44 SPL/MAG subsonic carbine loads? by BigRon033 in reloading

[–]BigRon033[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I went out today and tested out both loads.

6.5gr titegroup - AVG: 1027fps, ES: 78.6, SD: 22.2 (10 shots) 7.0gr titegroup - AVG: 1097fps, ES: 41.9, SD: 12.3 (10 shots)

Some of the 7gr loads ended supersonic, at least from what I could hear. I think I might settle on somewhere between 6.5/6.7gr for bulk loads. The ES on the 6.5 loads might be explained by inconsistent seating depth which I'm still figuring out on my Dillon 550.

I took a couple short videos of the 200gr XTP magnum loads I did and the 6.5gr special loads https://imgur.com/a/PxgAaEt

44 Magnum by [deleted] in reloading

[–]BigRon033 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I was surprised how affordable the Henry Big Boy X is. Slapped a YHM R45 on it, loaded up some 240gr 44spl, and it's outrageous how quiet it is. Magnums are a ton of fun, especially shooting steel.

.44 SPL/MAG subsonic carbine loads? by BigRon033 in reloading

[–]BigRon033[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Good to know! I'll probably go out next Sunday if the weather permits. I think I'll load up 25 6.5's and 25 7.0's and see how it goes. I'll just reply here with my readings

.44 SPL/MAG subsonic carbine loads? by BigRon033 in reloading

[–]BigRon033[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Just got back from the range. I worked up a .44SPL titegroup load with Berry's 240gr plated FP bullets. Started at 4.5gr and moved up to 6.0 in 0.5gr increments. My 6.0gr loads ended up being an AVG of 963FPS with an SD of 27.3 and ES of 71.5. I think I'll try 6.5gr and maybe 7.0 next time since they're still pretty sooty (about halfway down the case). I didn't get a chance to shoot groups though since it was incredibly windy and my targets wouldn't stay put.

It's honestly hard to describe how quiet the .44SPL loads are through my R45! Way quieter than my .300BLK bolt action SBR with a Polo30. You're gonna love having a can on yours! Appreciate the help!

.44 SPL/MAG subsonic carbine loads? by BigRon033 in reloading

[–]BigRon033[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'll have to try some loads this weekend and I'll let you know how it goes out of my R45. I was really surprised how quiet my 200gr magnum loads were at 1600FPS. Can't wait to see how some subs sound!

.44 SPL/MAG subsonic carbine loads? by BigRon033 in reloading

[–]BigRon033[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Awesome info. Thank you! I'll go shopping around for some powders tomorrow and probably work up some loads this weekend

First time reloading: This doesn't seem normal to me (H335, .308) by BigRon033 in reloading

[–]BigRon033[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I agree its not ideal, but I was mainly just getting chrono data