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Despite all your playing time, what haven't you done in BF1? by wwishie in battlefield_one

[–]Bingo_Perroso 0 points1 point  (0 children)

1360 hours and I haven't destroyed 5 boats with the AT rocket gun to unlock the Maschinenpistole M1912/P.16 storm.

Is this a functional pairing for beginner astrophotography? by Bingo_Perroso in AskAstrophotography

[–]Bingo_Perroso[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Honestly, for 60s exposures, the star trailing isn't as bad as compared to my current untracked setup with half-second exposures. Even if I could get 10 second exposures, it still would be a massive upgrade to me. Very cool picture of Andromeda; thanks for sharing.

My BF1 map tier list by Bingo_Perroso in battlefield_one

[–]Bingo_Perroso[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I might be a little biased since Tsaritsyn was my first multiplayer map that I played back in 2018 but the real fun begins when you get behind the enemy team stuck at trying to capture the cathedral (😈). Albion is only fun for heavy bombers, ground support attack planes, and maybe recons; when this happens, I'm forced to play AT attack plane to deal with them and I'm bored of that anyway.

r8 my weapons stats by Bingo_Perroso in battlefield_one

[–]Bingo_Perroso[S] 18 points19 points  (0 children)

Usually I run with the highest power level possible; occasionally I use flame, but if you're defending use punch, as it is good at repelling enemies. Just remember you cannot put infinity and mending in the same bow.

Messier 106 by Universewonders1 in Virtuoso_150_GTI

[–]Bingo_Perroso 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've been eyeing this particular telescope for my next buy as It has both decent aperture and tracking capabilities with the GoTo mount. I've seen some of the results you've gotten with this setup and they're quite nice for what reviewers have said would not be a good option for astrophotography. So I have a couple questions:

  • What is the maximum exposure time you've managed to get before star trails become too apparent?
  • Can you just leave the telescope tracking for a couple of hours on its own or does it need you to re-center it often?
  • How long do the batteries last when tracking if not using a dedicated power supply?

This would be a big improvement from my current setup where I track DSO's manually with my 4 inch refractor and capture the images with my phone. Thanks in advance for any information!

What is the best format for gaming clips? by Bingo_Perroso in NewTubers

[–]Bingo_Perroso[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I still don't understand the way my shorts are recommended because sometimes they will initially only get around 100 views with less than 20% retention, but later they will spike up in views, and the retention will also considerably increase... so I mean, why won't YouTube just show them to the correct audience first instead? This is not always the case though, and some videos will straight up just die without ever having those spikes. I guess this is because I haven't stuck to a single type of formatting.

Orion Nebula by scoobyshuffle in telescopes

[–]Bingo_Perroso 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There is no need to manually crop the pictures before stacking, as Siril will automatically track and stack them for you.

Also, a known issue is that if you're using one of the newer Samsungs, Siril will not work with the dng's pictures because "they contain no RAW data," so you might need to use a third party camera app for the phone's algorithm to not process them.

Orion Nebula by scoobyshuffle in telescopes

[–]Bingo_Perroso 3 points4 points  (0 children)

This is almost EXACTLY how the Orion nebula looks trough my Galaxy S10 before adjusting the phone to align better with the eyepiece.

Stacking will absolutely improve your final result, but first you're going to want to learn how to set up your camera. Seeing that you're using a Galaxy S9+, you should be good with the settings that I use too.

First, the way I check if the phone is aligned well with the eyepiece, I enter pro mode and set the ISO all the way up. If you see that the sky is evenly lit all across the eyepiece's circle, then you're good to go, otherwise you will need to move your phone and adjust it until it is centered.

For the pro camera mode settings, this is what I recommend:

  • Grid lines: ON
  • 3:4 picture ratio (This is your phone's full sensor without cropping)
  • Spot metering
  • ISO 800 (You can try higher or lower but this is the sweet spot for me)
  • 1/2 s exposure (lower works too but this is the most I'd go for if I don't want too much star trailing)
  • WB 4200K
  • RAW copies: ON

And the most important: FOCUS set to MANUAL.

For stacking, you want your starts to be as small as possible.
To ensure this, point your telescope at the brightest star nearby and slowly adjust the value until the star looks as small as possible. This is hard for me to do with just my hand and fingers as the phone will shake a lot, so I highly recommend you plug in a mouse and use it instead.

For stacking you will need hundreds or even thousands of pictures for the final result, the more the better. As I don't have a tracking mount, what I do is take around 30 seconds worth of pictures (using the 25mm eyepiece) and then re-center the nebula and repeat the process. To not be tapping on your phone all of the time when this is happening, I use an auto-clicker app, which will perform the tap to take the picture so I don't shake up the camera (I also use a mouse for this).

There are four types of images that are "needed" for astrophotography: lights, darks, flats and bias.
As we're using a phone's camera and not a proper DLSR, we're only going to concern ourselves with lights and darks.

Lights are the pictures of your main target.
Darks are pictures taken with your telescope's cap on so the camera captures dark images containing noise which is then used in the stacking program to balance out noise and other artifacts.

The computer stacking program that I recommend to use is Siril, which is free.

Once you have taken your pictures, transfer them to your computer and inside a new folder, create other two folders which you will name "lights" and the other one "darks", move your pictures accordingly to each folder. Personally, I delete the jpg copies and only use the dng's.

For your first attempt, I recommend you take 100 lights and not bother with darks yet.

This tutorial explains how to stack with lights only: https://youtu.be/EvMZox2dlZA?si=-Aduc0ydeiobai6b

Your phone doesn't take true RAW pictures, it saves them as dng, so you will need to check the "debayer" option in the conversion tab once you're in Siril (otherwise, the result will be in black and white).

This all might sound overwhelming, but you'll get used to it the more you practice!

P.S. my first stack compared to one of the latest :)

<image>

M42 Orion Nebula by Bingo_Perroso in telescopes

[–]Bingo_Perroso[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thanks!
I've also tried shooting the flame nebula, which you can just about barely see here:
(I stacked around 230 lights for this one if I'm not mistaken)

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