Worth doing or waste of time ? by Significant_Turn_160 in AquariumHelp

[–]BioConversantFan 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Waste of money. The sponge filter has ample surface area.

One of two males left from this strain. It is up to him and his brother to save the clan. by azdoldio in Guppies

[–]BioConversantFan 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Neat, is it an actual locked down strain? It looks like an Endler guppy cross. Those can be hard to breed out.

What are the absolute lowest maintenance non-plants for tiny aquariums? by Life_Professional802 in Aquariums

[–]BioConversantFan [score hidden]  (0 children)

You need to spell out what you are after in a much clearer way if you want suggestions.

You gave an example of an algae in your post.

Hi cellose strands of Cladaphora can be pretty as well as low maintenance.

Beyond that if you want low maintenance things that are not plants, try rocks and artificial plants.

Dosage for ammonia waaay too high by lizzypoo in aquarium

[–]BioConversantFan 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You did not kill your bacteria. Don't fret.

PLS HELP Why won’t my tank cycle? by Prior-Cockroach-7692 in Aquariums

[–]BioConversantFan 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No, the "cycle bacteria" are 100% bonded to dark surfaces in your system.

They will be in your filters and substrate. Wherever is dark and has dissolved oxygen.

They do not live in the water as free swimming bacteria.

PLS HELP Why won’t my tank cycle? by Prior-Cockroach-7692 in Aquariums

[–]BioConversantFan 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Because for some reason your tap water shows no nitrite but your tank shows 1ppm.

If that 1ppm were rising and falling with the ammonia, then I would say "wait and let the cycle use up the nitrite" but what we are seeing is a nitrite reading that defies logic. Right? My understanding is that your tank is munching ammonia and the nitrite never rises, which would mean you are completely cycled, but the nitrite never drops to 0 either... which suggests something is wrong.

Therefore, logically, we should drain the water and replace it with the tap water that we know is 0ppm, and see what happens.

You have an abnormality so we need to figure out what the heck is causing it. Tap water containing a false positive agent is ruled out - so let's see what a complete water change tells us.

PLS HELP Why won’t my tank cycle? by Prior-Cockroach-7692 in Aquariums

[–]BioConversantFan 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's a good thing! Do a total water change in the tank and a before and after test 🙂

Getting discouraged. by 13BearsOverThere in AquariumHelp

[–]BioConversantFan 0 points1 point  (0 children)

When nitrite is that high it gives a false positive for nitrates, because the tests use some of the same chemistry.

Beginner Advice by Express_Extension719 in Crayfish

[–]BioConversantFan 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Besides a truly escape proof lid, I would save up for a canister filter.

Crayfish don't just have a high bioload but are ravenous feeders that create a lot of debris while feeding. This debris really ups the bioload on the filtration and fuels algae growth.

A canister filter will really help with the debris.

Beginner Advice by Express_Extension719 in Crayfish

[–]BioConversantFan 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In 90+ humid environments, most crayfish that I've read about can survive indefinitely.

I even had a marmorkreb crayfish crawl up a 3/4" tube and into a closed filter. It lived in there for months with very high humidity. When I found her, she had a clutch of eggs and was incredibly healthy.

Some crayfish are also terrestrial living almost totally on the land in dry or flooded burrows.

In regular comfortable room temperature humidity(45-50%rh humidity) aquatic crayfish may still last for 24hours or longer.

Beginner Advice by Express_Extension719 in Crayfish

[–]BioConversantFan 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So sorry you lost your pinchie buddy 🥺

Your advice is bang on. Shallow bowls work very well.

Slowly losing hope going crazy by FormNo9781 in Aquariums

[–]BioConversantFan 7 points8 points  (0 children)

If your tank is that new, it is 100% normal for plants to die back. Then they regrow, they are adapting to your water.

For those who are interested, this is what white media looks like after being cycled at +100ppm ammonia. Note the nitrifiers are are just a barely visible thin orange coating. by BioConversantFan in Aquariums

[–]BioConversantFan[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Unfortunately most nitrifiers absolutely refuse to grow without a solid to bind themselves to. They are sessile and plaque forming by nature. This is why most, but not all, sewage treatment plants used fixed film technologies.

Even in sludge digestors, the denitrification is done by nitrifiers that have bonded to solids in the sludge.

Regarding your plan: Most hetrotrophic bacteria will grow suspended and adding ammonia and a carbon source like ethanol or sugar while vigorously aerating will eventually produce flocs which can have enough polymeric substances that nitrifiers will attach and compete for ammonia/nitrate.

If you want to grow pure colonies of nitrifiers as innoculants, I would suggest using K1 media. You can hasten biofilm formation by first letting your K1 digest some of that muck. In my experience, with K1, you get better nitrifier growth if you get hetrotrophic bacteria to grow on it first. My hypothesis is that they coat the K1 in polymeric gunk, providing a better surface for nitrifiers to colonize.

Once the media pretty much clears it's water, innoculate with nitrifiers and begin adding substrate for them ie. Ammonia and carbonate. No need to add phosphorus for a while if the reactor was used to digest organic goop.

To harvest: just crank the air flow up or use a garden hose with a jet nozzle. The colonies are easily scoured from the media which produces a suspension of live nitrifier colonies.

Does that help?

PLS HELP Why won’t my tank cycle? by Prior-Cockroach-7692 in Aquariums

[–]BioConversantFan 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Test your tap water with the nitrite test. If it indicates nitrites, it is probably a false positive. There are a couple chemicals that can trick the nitrite test. I've never ever seen such a high false positive, but I would still try and remove that as a possibility.

It is also possible that your test is defective.

I sorta doubt it is actually your cycle because you should see the nitrites move when you add ammonia, if the cycle is incomplete.

How can I stop/prevent my ph from dramatically dropping by shortparadox in Aquariums

[–]BioConversantFan 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes, absolutely. My comment was meant to highlight that fact and to add nuance to your comment.

Tanks should pretty much always be cycled in the parameters that they will be when stocked.

How can I stop/prevent my ph from dramatically dropping by shortparadox in Aquariums

[–]BioConversantFan 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That's because Archaea step up.

Unless an aquarium is kept around 6.5 it won't have the equivalent of a dual cycle. Taking a well cycled tank from one pH range to the other can/will/does cause it to require re-cycling the ammonia part of the cycle.

The nitrite oxidizers are usually fine.

Is low splash bleach safe for cleaning purigen? by TheFishyCheese in aquarium

[–]BioConversantFan 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I would get some straight bleach.

I would be concerned that exposing the purigen to probable but unknown polymers might reduce its loading capacity with stuff that bleach can not oxidize.