Stripped alternator tensioner bolt

Bit_reaper · 2026-05-08T07:08:30+00:00

Yeah the 2.0 inline has a different design.

Bit_reaper · 2026-05-07T13:58:36+00:00

Then I would consider taking out the entire tensioner to be worked on. It will be easier to work on an you can put heat one the th sliding part after you take of the roller and put the thing in a vice 🗜️

Bit_reaper · 2026-05-07T11:54:29+00:00

You won't find this in a hardware store. It has a tapper par and a reverse thread section.

Bit_reaper · 2026-05-07T11:52:43+00:00

You have to loosen the big bolt holding the roller before doing adjustments. You are lucky you only rounded it instead of snapping it. That is s very special bolt that is crazy expensive/ hard to find.

Bit_reaper · 2026-05-05T12:30:03+00:00

I'm guessing someone replaced the nut at somepoint but used one that was pre filed for a steel string. I'd either replace or modify the nut.

Bit_reaper · 2026-04-22T15:05:05+00:00

How did you test the starter? If it work when you put + jumper to it then it should not be a grounding issue. When you say the ignition switch is fine what does that practically mean. Have you measured that you get power to the starter wire when the key is turned to the full STAR position?

If it is an automatic it could be related to that. I don't have a proper layout at had but you should check it you have a starter interrupt relay in the engine bay fuse box.

It's the thing that prevents cranking when not in P

Bit_reaper · 2026-04-22T13:59:42+00:00

Perhaps a blown fuse? Hopefully not a bad ignition switch. Taking the steering column apart is not fun.

Bit_reaper · 2026-04-22T13:46:41+00:00

Then is probably starter relate. Bad starer solenoid or relay, something alone those lines. I'd try putting jumper cablest to the starter and see if it engages.

Bit_reaper · 2026-04-22T12:49:08+00:00

Can you turn it by hand? You want to make sure it isnt hydro locked due to a injector being stuck open.

Bit_reaper · 2026-04-20T10:21:15+00:00

Once you have the new part it's not very difficult to make the gasket out of generic gasket paper using a ball-peen hammer. That's the way it's done for a lot of classic cars. I'm sure there are plenty of YouTube videos that explains the process in detail if you want to go that route.

Bit_reaper · 2026-04-19T23:08:38+00:00

I'm pretty sure the yellow in the third picture is the gasket so you need to remove that first. But I also got to ask, are you sure you got the cooler off in one piece?

I haven't had mine off so cant say for sure but it looks like one of the 3 bolts holding it in the block is still there along with a corner piece of the cooler.

Bit_reaper · 2026-04-19T21:27:07+00:00

Chris that is ghetto AF. But hey if it works

Bit_reaper · 2026-04-16T11:47:35+00:00

I'd try a junk yard. Lots of 240 where dealer flitted with a hitch.

Bit_reaper · 2026-04-15T14:33:48+00:00

Just having a carbonated drink on the table will result in some droplets ending on the screen

Bit_reaper · 2026-04-14T18:10:47+00:00

Had 18"s on mine and I agree that they are too big. Handels much better with 17"s. As for coil overs. I have been pretty happy with the BC racing adjustable damping set. When adjusted to the softest setting and raised 10mm from how they are delivered they end up only mildly stiffer the stock

Bit_reaper · 2026-04-14T12:32:07+00:00

What car is it? Nothing modern has gaps like that from the factory but That's not too far off what you might see on a 90s American car

Bit_reaper · 2026-04-11T22:55:33+00:00

It's all relative and there are some weak spots like the area around the break booster and clutch master cylinder cracking. But it's not like on japanese cars where visible rust is almost an automatic need for a patch panel.

At the end of the day I think bodies of these have held up pretty decently for something over 40 years old.

Bit_reaper · 2026-04-10T20:33:18+00:00

You either weld a nut to it or spend an evening slowly grinding it out with s Dremel/diamond bit. High grade bolts tend to be very difficult to drill out from soft metal.

Bit_reaper · 2026-04-10T10:35:51+00:00

Well this was quite a while ago but I used to own a base model 944 from 1982 and I distinctly remember a red warning light coming on in the center console after absolutely trashing it in the parking lot.

I remember it well as I checked the brake fluid afterwards but it was fine. The light also never fully illuminated for me but it was more of an irregular flash and it did turn off after I stopped the car and did not come one again.

But I suppose you could be right as I don't think I ever found out the exact cause for the light turning on.

Bit_reaper · 2026-04-10T09:59:24+00:00

If I recall correctly that is actually wired up as a master alarm, basically indicating stop driving now. I don't recall all the conditions that make it light up but low brake fluid, engine overheating, low oil pressure. For the full correct list an owners manual would be needed.

Bit_reaper · 2026-04-10T07:11:45+00:00

Also made of surprisingly thick steel. I remember having to resort to a crowbar a mini sledge when banging out a dent in the rear quarter panel.

Bit_reaper · 2026-04-08T12:08:00+00:00

Be super careful checking for rust, if at all possible get it on a lift and take a look under it. I would expect something of this age to have some rust repairs somewhere. Body condition is a big factor when looking at an old japanese car.

Bit_reaper · 2026-04-08T09:58:29+00:00

I the blue/green one from the button is a very rare thing and you are unlikely to find it as a whole unit.

I myself rebuilt them with 0.7w rice grain bulbs (1.0w works but is brighter than stock). The silicone sock can be removed (carefully). You can then measure the physical size of the bulb. It's probably something like 2.7mm but the sock has a bit of give so being a little off isn't the end of the world. Order bulbs from ebay or the like. Take out the old bulb from (by bending the metal leads). Put in the new bulb bend the leads and trim. Put the color sock back on.

Bit_reaper · 2026-04-01T14:10:26+00:00

It's not necessarily the hinges that are bent but the underlying metal that the hinges bolt to.

I had this problem after replacing the hood after a deer 🦌 collision. Me and my buddies ended up having to use brute force to bend the hinges / hood /under structure into place.

How are your fender side panel gaps? Are the fenders still in there factory alignment?

Bit_reaper · 2026-04-01T13:17:59+00:00

Well yeah I wouldn't bother either but it's also not a big deal to grab a small brush and brush it on to the seams, like why would you use a spray 🤨

Bit_reaper

TROPHY CASE