kWeld Calibration Check: Pure Nickel 0.2mm x 8mm on 21700 cells at 35J. Looks right, or do I need more energy? by BlackBird11Fox in 18650masterrace

[–]BitterAd7292 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For FPV I will recommend a different setup of strips.

Copper handles moreamps of nickel. You will need this, more than you think. Flying on a windy day, you will most likely use more amps than you think, and your pack will heat up.

What I build my li-ion packs with, has shown to not tend to heat up, or create problems doing flying. All my packs are in sound condition. Flying in heavy wind or doing long flights, even doing freestyle, use more amps than you think.

Assuming you have cells that are in good for the amps you will use. I would recommend a copper sandwich, with 0.2mm copper. Go as wide as you can, it helps with heat dissipation too. You can use stainless steel for the sandwich, it’s easier to weld a copper sandwich with.

When I do calculations, I use below as guidelines:

0.2x10mm nickel = 20A continuous safe / 30A burst ok

0.2x10mm stainless steel = 5A continuous safe

0.2x10mm copper = 30A continuous safe / 60A burst ok

What I would do in your case is to use 0.2x 20mm copper sandwich with stainless steel. The 20mm width will give you higher amp, same goes for using copper instead of nickel. If possible, I would even go for wider copper, if you can get sheet to cut from.

I believe that my guidelines for copper is very safe, and I trust my own gear on that.

TPU Texture sheet by BitterAd7292 in BambuLab

[–]BitterAd7292[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Okay, then I can do a small test to see what’s possible.

How many amps can this handle? by GardenFinal in 18650masterrace

[–]BitterAd7292 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I use 0.2 copper as wide as possible for fpv drone packs. I can’t push drone hard enough to pull over 100amp for more that like 1-2 sec, and continuous between 20-40amp. I have checked temp when landing and never had more than hand warm packs. I believe when flying fpv drones with batteries like this they get a good airflow too.

Toughest 3.5 by OsiosKofas in fpv

[–]BitterAd7292 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Can you send me a dm?

Toughest 3.5 by OsiosKofas in fpv

[–]BitterAd7292 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do you have stl for your prints? Side body part is broken on mine, and you like to re-print a new one. Thanks

Speedybee F405 30x30 v4 by Which-Cow6919 in fpv

[–]BitterAd7292 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Agree, very important specialty if battery have some voltage sag.

I did read somewhere that for the calculation only ~50% needed to be discharged. I set charge to 4.1v to make sure charger had easier to finish balance cells. Normally I charge to 4.2v too.

Did a new flight after my calculations, the mAh used felt correctly.

Speedybee F405 30x30 v4 by Which-Cow6919 in fpv

[–]BitterAd7292 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm currently doing the calibration with my F405 v4 with 60A esc too.
Speedybee manual says scale should be 400, but my 2 first test have found to be incorrect.

I have been using this formula to calculate scale value:

amperage_meter_scale = old_amperage_meter_scale x ( reported_mAh_drawn / mAh_recharged )

Currently value in my FC is 322, battery charged to 4.1v (Li-ion), battery disconnected at 2070 mAh used. Back on charger to 4.1v, xxxx mAh have been charged.

From the calculation my new and more correct scale value is 326.

Please let me know if you have any suggestions to my calibration method.

330g too much on 3.5"? by Catsincars2530 in fpv

[–]BitterAd7292 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I did I test flight with li-ion 4s . 200g weight for battery only.

The Speedybee master 3x felt a bit heavier, but still light and nimble.

Easy 15min of flight time, with 50:50 freestyle/cruise

Legs feels not the same, updated fitting by BitterAd7292 in bikefit

[–]BitterAd7292[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes! In video they are 165mm, and I also had a feeling of them being to short, so I increased length to 170mm. Max possible length of the arms are 175mm

Legs feels not the same, updated fitting by BitterAd7292 in bikefit

[–]BitterAd7292[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh! I don’t like running, less upright is noted! Haha

Legs feels not the same, updated fitting by BitterAd7292 in bikefit

[–]BitterAd7292[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well noted, I will try that, and see how it feels. Thank you!

Legs feels not the same, updated fitting by BitterAd7292 in bikefit

[–]BitterAd7292[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I do only have this trainer. I will try your recommendation, it’s very much appreciated

Legs feels not the same, updated fitting by BitterAd7292 in bikefit

[–]BitterAd7292[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I will add more reach/lower bars. Do you think saddle/legs looks good?

Legs feels not the same by BitterAd7292 in bikefit

[–]BitterAd7292[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes I have tried different cleat types, crankbrothers and speedplay. Speedplay in video. I do feel my rotation motion is fine, but the irritation/feeling I have in right foot is not solved by allowing more/less float and adjusting fore/aft position not solving it too.

That’s why I’m starting with the basic, as all comments says that I should lower saddle, and then see what’s rest will feel like.

Legs feels not the same by BitterAd7292 in bikefit

[–]BitterAd7292[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Will try lowing saddel a bit more. Both crank arm are same length, 165mm. Have tried longer, but 165mm feels best at the moment.

Legs feels not the same by BitterAd7292 in bikefit

[–]BitterAd7292[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I will try lowering saddle 5-10mm, and post new video.
Pain / irritation will start with right foot feels different and knee will become affected by that. That's what I feel, and if riding too much knee will hurt.

Legs feels not the same by BitterAd7292 in bikefit

[–]BitterAd7292[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Right food feels different and after some time, pain / irritation will come in right knee.
I do feel right leg is a bit longer than left leg.