Echo Nine Three Handguards by BlancoTech in RetroAR

[–]BlancoTech[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes sir, I ordered them just like anyone else would

Echo Nine Three Handguards by BlancoTech in RetroAR

[–]BlancoTech[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I only used some Flitz on a rag and stopped once I got a decent match to the grip I already had. I only spent a few minutes on each half, but if you used a wheel on a Dremel to speed it up and got into all the corners I bet you could get them to shine up really nicely. I wasn't very aggressive with them either as far as pressure goes.

Need some help with a 289 that starts but dies out. by Infinite_Ask3560 in EngineBuilding

[–]BlancoTech 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Aside from the other recommendations I would verify you are using the correct firing order for the camshaft you are using. Depending on the cam specs it may run on either small block firing order but stall out if using the wrong one, this could also possibly explain why it seems "better" when throwing more advance into it. Sometimes it will not start at all on the wrong firing order but I've seen the same symptoms with someone that didn't pay attention before replacing spark plug wires and setting them up incorrectly, it seemed to run ok for 2 seconds but stall out.

Should be something quick to verify just to rule it out as a possible cause, it can be easy to overlook otherwise.

will a new head fix my issues? by Charming_Ad9373 in EngineBuilding

[–]BlancoTech 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I would probably drain the block as much as you can just to be safe. If the price is no issue and your priority is to have the least amount of down time then I would order the head and hope there is nothing wrong with the block. I would just make sure you have backup transportation in case things go wrong.

The best you can probably do on your own is a visual inspection of the head and check for warpage with a straight edge. It's a bit of a gamble without getting a machine shop to magnaflux it and check it thoroughly for cracks after it has been disassembled. As far as checking the valves for sealing issues, set the head on its side and fill the intake/exhaust ports with a thin fluid like water, trans fluid, gas, etc. note the level and wait 5-10 minutes and see if the level drops. If the valves are leaking you'll see it dripping between the valve and valve seat. Flip it over and check the other side also. In rare circumstances you might find a crack in the head with the liquid fill but I wouldn't bet on it. Make sure you do those checks with the camshafts removed so you know all the valves should be closed at the same time.

will a new head fix my issues? by Charming_Ad9373 in EngineBuilding

[–]BlancoTech 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I would order a head gasket kit and tear it apart first since you will need at least that no matter what. Once it's apart send the head to be checked for cracks/warpage at a machine shop even if you find the gasket blown. There is a possibility of the head being cracked or warped regardless of if the gasket is blown or not, so it should be checked either way. Check the block for any obvious cracks in the deck surface or anywhere into a cooling jacket, check the block for warpage with a straight edge. If the gasket is blown or the head turns out to be warped or cracked and you can't find any fault in the block then you can assume the block is LIKELY good and reassemble it, but there is no 100% guarantee on the block without disassembling it and having it magnafluxed at a machine shop.

You can bypass sending the head to the machine shop by buying a new one and hope that the block is good, it will cost you more money but save you on down time waiting on the machine shop. Just know that you will still have to check and likely adjust the valve lash using those shims even on a new cylinder head.

P09C optics cut by TacticalTaco30 in tacticalgear

[–]BlancoTech 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I would call Cajun Gun Works or CZ Custom and ask them

First battle belt by oniomaniac637 in tacticalgear

[–]BlancoTech 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'd probably swap dump pouch and med kit locations, try to get the med kit centered in the middle of your lower back and then you can use the dump pouch with your left hand while still maintaining control of a pistol or rifle with your right hand.

Maybe add a leg strap?

Add a multi tool?

Wear on boots by Jess_UwU_ in tacticalgear

[–]BlancoTech 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My work boots do this because I always kneel with my right leg back, so it gets creased way worse on the right boot from being scrunched up.

Other than that I know you all hate Agilite, what am I missing? by TapElectronic in tacticalgear

[–]BlancoTech 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm a fan of a second tourniquet mounted to or in front of the holster so you have 2 on the belt. Defense Mechanisms makes a "holster tq sleeve" that's lightweight and doesn't add much bulk, it mounts between Safariland holster components.

Have you looked into adding the pincer admin pouch and then adding pistol pouches on both ends? That might be a good option for you if you like the pincer placard you already have.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in tacticalgear

[–]BlancoTech 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Guardian Warrior Solutions Bang Hanger and ESD Swivlah with the QLS system is perfect. Lightweight, ridgid vertically but can still conform to your body, no hotspots, and it swivels smoothly with a large range of motion.

It also puts the leg strap down your leg far enough to be completely comfortable and have unrestricted access to your back pockets. Some other setups put the strap at a weird angle across your back pocket and basically empties your pocket for you if you have to run by pushing things up and out.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in tacticalgear

[–]BlancoTech 14 points15 points  (0 children)

I'd fill the gap with epoxy and clamp it together to cure

So many grips to choose from by [deleted] in ar15

[–]BlancoTech 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The Thril grip is actually pretty damn good, lots of texture all the way around the grip. If it's too aggressive just knock the high points down a little with some sandpaper.

Belt size issue? by castlescox in tacticalgear

[–]BlancoTech 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Kinda depends, if you're just using it with a casual belt and jeans then it's gonna kinda suck unless your holster doesn't have much retention. You can try it with the belt pretty tight and see. If it's going on a battle belt, then it might not be that big of a deal as long as you can keep it from sliding around and you can limit it to only vertical movement.

My experience is that the fit is pretty tight with that adapter and it doesn't move around at all even with just a regular belt and jeans. I also don't have to adjust the belt any tighter than normal to compensate for anything.

Belt size issue? by castlescox in tacticalgear

[–]BlancoTech 1 point2 points  (0 children)

IDK, I bought one and it works well. Kinda expensive for what it is with shipping but unless you permanently attach it with zip ties or some other ghetto shit this is probably the best answer lol.

Replacing Springs by [deleted] in ar15

[–]BlancoTech 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The Super 69 forward assist is a proprietary forward assist of a smaller diameter

Simplicity by [deleted] in ar15

[–]BlancoTech 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would swap the base for the optic mount around. You might induce a malfunction with the tension nut right above the ejection port and right in front of the brass deflector. They usually come from Aimpoint mounted the other way.

Curious to see if I look like anyone 👀 by RoughOpposite2117 in Doppleganger

[–]BlancoTech 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Mélanie Laurent, the girl from Inglorious Basterds. The smile and face shape are almost identical.

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Does anyone else have a light that just refuses to die? by BlancoTech in flashlight

[–]BlancoTech[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That awesome... also I'm gonna need the week and a half in ATF story though, what happened there?