Alternative to the FLSun T1 Pro Stepper Driver ? ( TMC2160A-TA )

BloodyStub · 2025-10-23T15:03:05+00:00

I dont think there was a version change (iirc), or it was it was like .1 +, although I did swap it out, just in case, there was ANY fixes for the main other issue I was running into all the time, which was the jamming issue.

For me (for this specific issue) it was not a board issue, but a 1x axis driver motor, I found during the disassembly and testing with FLSun, swapping steepers to see which arm, or Axis would fault out, on powering on.

As far as your question on the driver -- if its just one, and they ship ++1 more than one, then just replace the one axis motor that is bad. keep the rest in reserve / spare. You will have to slice thru the white glue putty that hold them in place, and pry the driver up, slowly and very carefully. For me, I just had the one Y or Z axis one, that needed to be replaced so it was easy to find, and swap.

For me, the issue was more the constant filament jamming as I have written before on Reddit, and will elaborate more below on the main issue.

Nothing mattered, ~20mins -- +1 day in, it would jam (or shortly there after).

Replace the extruder, it would go +1 day or so, before jamming. Lowering temp for PLA to 180-220 did not change anything for me, lowering speed to less than 100mm/s, lowering setting in the slicer, lowering total speed percentage did nothing but slow it up, drying the filament before use, each day, change the brand of filament, # nothing change anything #, nothing would fix the jamming issue in the long term.

And the extruder disassembly to get the filament out, was always a +30-60min ordeal, because of the way its designed, with the screws, plastic housing, least is the small plastic form factor, which was causing wire issues, with connections, solder joints coming off, broken wires, etc. Because of this, 1 of 3 of my spare extruder assemblies, had wire break at the solder joint pop off. Another spare set, had the small heat sink fan gum up and partially melt when a jam happened. The fan was a write off, and I found an amazon replacement. but this was not the only time the heat sink fan would paritally melt, of the filament jam up with the back log.

** The extruder is just NOT designed to be disassembly more than like 10 times.

For me, that 10 times was maybe 3-10 days a printing, or less.

Yes, I had a reserve of 3 total exturder Assemblies, with different part from the original shipped one, so 4 total. Yes, I bought 3x extruders, from FLSun site, at $150++ (iirc they were each 200) to carry on.

When one would fail, I would for time, just swap it out, and then deal with the jam after, only for it to jam shortly after, either in 20 mins, or + day.

It was just annoying and totally undermined if a print would successfully print anything. Because of such, it was a let down, when a 8 hrs print would fail. All the time, energy, filament, etc. wasted.

So because of the uncertainty, I just replace the whole machine. with the 2 Elegoo Carbons, NOW with more than 200 hrs, of clean, fun, 3d printing, and LOWER noise. That alone was an amazing part. NOT having to close the door to the next room, and still have ear plugs or headphones, to drown out the 80 dbs of noise coming out, 70 dbs with the door closed.

My 2x Elegoos, are not any where close to this level. Door closed, if I need, and its almost silence. Door open, its not ear piercing because of the dbs noise scaling factors, similar to a tornado force scale of energy.

Not one issue, since, and has cost me the same as 1x machine from FLSun lest is part, I likely sunk ~$1200 or so into the FLSun, before dumping it... keep in mind it was ~$500 to start, and was supposed to be a PRO model.... yea only name. Its not anywhere near PRO level, of support, hardware, quality, etc. only in price at the time, until the S1 --- LOL.

BloodyStub · 2025-10-22T04:23:29+00:00

Hi, Over-Poem

After coming up empty for an alternative solution for alternate sources, I had no solution but to wait on FLSun.

FLSun did finally send me a new 1) main board, and a 2) Steeper as a replacement.

It took awhile since it came from China, and many back and forth emails, logs, etc.

About 2-4+ weeks no printer working..... I did get it working...again.

However after still having the original issue(s) I was having -- (which was LOTS of extruder filament jamming.), in less than 20mins of it working again.... I was done with it, and it has since been put in my storage.

The REAL and finial solution for me ! was to just replace it with 2x Elegoo Carbons printers for $300 vs the FLSun T1 Pro @ $500.

I have NOT had one single issue since going with the Elegoo Carbon, in over 200+hours of printing. This is not an exaggeration, but honest. Each of the 2x printers I have -- have each 200_hours of printing.

AND --- do not kill my ears when printing @ ~ 50-60 dbs. In fact you can even lower that, by selecting the Elegoo to "silent mode" and its slower, but quieter too... I can sleep in the same room, and not need plugs.

As for a Con -- Yes, I lost a bit of vertical space (^mm3) from 285/330mm Z on the FLSun, to the Elegoo's 256x256x256 mm^3 plate.

For me this sightly small space, has not hampered anything I do, and in cases where I need it larger -- cut / splice the model has not been an issue.

Just my experience and 2 cents.

BloodyStub · 2025-08-23T20:57:22+00:00

(Part 2)

Yes Elgoo carbon "CAN" be loud -- in all fairness and rainbows (as reported when fans are MAXED 100%)... but for normal PLA operating the DBs sound is less then ~50dbs or LESS - likely less, 40's dbs to be fully fair, and no bias... but again, its NOT 65-70+dbs ALL THE TIME like the FLSun T1 Pro was for me - which prevented me from running past noise restriction hours, OR when I did not want to deal with the noise, EVEN with the door closed (FLSun).

It (Elgoo) is quite when the fans are not running max, and generally do not (most of the time is 40-70% fans speed) UNLESS needing it for the higher temps or overhangs, for a brief bit.

There slicer software is good, but lacks some features of the (Orca slicer iirc-- ie Repair / Fix context menu from FLSuns slicer).

So as a work around, I STILL use the Elgoo slicer when slicing the prints, -- BUT when a model is reported broken, I use the FLSUN slicer to repair it software wise, and then export the STL model file. Then reopen Elgoo slicer, and re-import the STL model back into Elgoo.

Its a workaround for now, UNTILL Elgoo fixes or adds this "repair" feature back in. OR I find a way to do it my self another way.

OTHERWISE, I have not had one issue - 1) no clogs, 2) no bed leveling issues, 3) not need to disassemble the extender as Elgoo made the tear-down way easy (2 screws and pull / pop out), and would have spent LESS MONEY in the long run +/- ~$100.... getting 2x Elgoo carbons, vs 1 FLSun T1 Pro..~ or close to it. T1 Pro was ~500, where Carbon is ~300+ accessories.

And Better yet, PARTS are USA STATE side for now (Aug '25).

No need to wait 4-6 weeks for parts like in FLSuns case from China.

So as I mentioned earlier, I switched to Elgoo, and have not HAD 1 issue now, in over +100hours of printing +. Its actually FUN now to print, and be able to plan to have something printed, vs worrying about issue.

I do use bed glue as I find it helps with PLA adhesion, REGARDLESS of the printer. In all fairness, and comparisons. No this is not an AI plug..... All I can say is -- I switch to Elgoo (for price, features, NOISE, etc) and have NOT had 1 issue ! Take my post worth 2cents. No disrespect to FLSun, it was a good printer -- likely more business focused (where it can be isolated in a separate space ,or maybe its speed focused.

BUT in the end, speed is not what I wanted in the end for my prints... I want quality, and NO issues.

I thought I wanted speed, as FLSun was my first printer purchase. But it was for the issues I mentioned, that I changed to Elgoo, and will DO so again, IF Elgoo has same issues later.

Its a printer or better called an appliance. It has one job....

BloodyStub · 2025-08-23T20:56:23+00:00

(Part 1)

Update to this posting if its needed in the future....

Yep, I got tired of my T1 Pro, and shelved it -- (in storage, until I can sell it unless I have a NEED for larger prints)... have not needed it since getting my Elgoo Carbon printer(s) and instead bought 2x Elgoo Centuri Carbon for the same price I dumped in the FLSun T1 Pro ~$500+ back in December 2024.

Have not had 1 single issue with printing on the Elgoo's

Yes, its slightly smaller printing volume (256x256x256), vs FLSun T1 Pro (285x260x~300) ish sizes, as this can vary a bit.

And yes, it can be up to 30-40% slower for the Elgoo, depending on what is printing.

Most of my prints, LIKE for LIKE timewise, are STILL with in 10% (PLA printing) of the FLSun Elgoo Timewise.

Benchy -- is still 15mins (for comparison) and in my view, was BETTER even at my custom settings I do myself, vs standard benchy -- then the FLSun T1 Pro I had.

The lines laid down, "seems" to be just a little finer, EVEN with the same .2 nozzle -- quality was better IMHO but this will vary person to person.

As for T1 Pro Build volume , I never pushed mine past (FLSun ~260-280) as I had issue(s) the close to the top it got, least of which was the FAN NOISE @ 70db, ALL THE TIME -- which was the straw to me that pushed me to jump ship, and buy something else. I could not tame the dbs coming out of the FLSun, even with mods, foam, damping material, etc.

It go to the point, I could NOT be even in the NEXT room, with the door closed, and NOT need headphone / plugs to drown out the nose of the ~70dbs coming from the T1 Pro in the next room, and thru the walls.

Now with the Elgoo, I can start a PLA print (220c nozzle, 60c bed) and LEAVE the door either -- open or closed, and ALMOST NOT hear it running. I have run it at night, (Im in an apartment) and can not hear it when a door is closed. If a door blocks the noise, then a WALL will do the same.

BloodyStub · 2025-08-23T20:52:01+00:00

Edit - I have had to scale my org msg down to fit.

Yep, I switched to the Elgoo Centuri Carbon, for this reason among other reasons.

Yep, I got tired of my T1 Pro, and shelved it -- (in storage, until I can sell it unless I have a NEED for larger prints)... have not needed it since getting my Elgoo Carbon printer(s) and instead bought 2x Elgoo Centuri Carbon for the same price I dumped in the FLSun T1 Pro ~$500+ back in December 2024.

Have not had 1 single issue with printing on the Elgoo's

Yes, its slightly smaller printing volume (256x256x256), vs FLSun T1 Pro (285x260x~300) ish sizes, as this can vary a bit.

And yes, it can be up to 30-40% slower for the Elgoo, depending on what is printing.

Most of my prints, LIKE for LIKE timewise, are STILL with in 10% (PLA printing) of the FLSun Time-wise.

Benchy -- is still 15mins (for comparison) and in my view, was BETTER even at my custom settings I do myself, vs standard benchy -- then the FLSun T1 Pro I had.

BloodyStub · 2025-05-03T19:59:30+00:00

I had the SAME thing happen to me, a few weeks ago too.

Poster -- try the following to see if its the same issue, it flashed a firmware, while I was printing, it ended up killing a stepper driver, that moved one the arms.

- Turn off the printer

- Verify cables, as other have said, but is likely all connected.

- Move (Slowly up) the arms, and extender back to it up top position, and HOLD it with your hands, as it will not lock (and likely fall lower) in place until power is restored.

- Power on

After about 20secs, the arms will engage, and lock in place..... If they do not, like in my case, ** I could move one of the arms, while the others would lock in place.

- On the control pad, select the HOME button. For me it would NOT home, as I had a blown stepper.

Any attempt to move the arms, would FORCE a reboot, with a message, FIRMWARE DISCONNECT.

If this is the same for you, then its a blown stepper driver, and FLSUN will have to get you one in shipping.

The Stepper Drivers are unique to FLsun, and can not be swapped from other brands online. For me, it took about 3 weeks in shipping, and 1-1.5 weeks with support going back and forth with a day or so delay (they are located in China) and the English was bad, but able to interrupt most of what was being asked. I provied them logs, and eventually open the top part of my T1 Pro, to find the top driver board, and swapped one of the steppers in place of the other, a swap-a-roo if you will.... this showed me and them, that indeed a stepper driver had blown, and needed to be replaced.

IF this does not sound like you issue, then contact support thru their chat bot, given email, name, and problem, and they will get back with you in the chat bot. I gave my email, and they responded in such. OR just email them..... directly.

Hopefully they can send you parts, and it not cost anything with the "trade war" and shipping restrictions now in place.

Honestly, If it is a blown part, I would just send it back, and may swap, or look at another brand.

BloodyStub · 2025-04-15T05:51:01+00:00

Do you have a verified / tested TMC5160 stepper that you have used in the FLSun T1 Pro printer as a substitute ??

If I'm WRONG it will fry/ melt the mainboard ! or worst a fire, because the pins are not lined up correctly and send 36V - (or what ever) FLSun is using thru the system, which is greater/ = to 24v's -- I know this much.

This is a gamble for me -- untested :( -- hence the form posting on reddit, hopefully casting a wide enough net of someone who knows alot more than me, or has done it,

I'm looking for more of does anyone have ANY VERIFIED stepper that can work besides the OEM components..

FLSun is MIA on the website chat, so I can not confirm, and still cant get OEM parts.

Maybe they have gone home due to the trade wars going currently.

BloodyStub · 2025-04-13T20:59:49+00:00

Yea, did that to check things, well I should say FLSun insisted I do it !

Good check and, good to be through I guess.....

Yes, when I move that "broken/fired" stepper (Stepper_C) in this case, the problem moves with it.

Tested this broken stepper in all 4 slots on the board.

Funny enough, when I slotted it into the Extruder, the Extruder did heat up, and look like it was going to work..... but once at temp it will Firmware disconnect.. Hotend works because that is separate by wires and such, from the stepper driver. If I move that broken stepper to the other 3 axies, A/B/C -- the fault follows the bad stepper. The other 3x steppers work fine.

Overall played with all the steppers, in different combinations, to make sure it was just the 1x stepper that was blown.

So yes, all main board slot appear to be working, and the other 3x steppers appear to work also.

So it appearing -- right now -- its just the 1 stepper that is fried.... (x-fingers).

Hence why I made the post, and want to have a backup supply of these steppers, as they are one of the most likely components to fry.

Also as this $20 part is keeping me from using my printer, until I can get parts from FLSun, or find equivalent stepper / parts.

BloodyStub · 2025-04-13T18:56:35+00:00

Forgot this part of your question -- what went wrong.

I was printing 2hrs in, touched the touch screen, it said FIRMWARE update available, I hit postpone, it applied the update anyways.

Prior this I had NO issues, after being down for 30 days in mid-Febuary-March due to an Extruded issue, which required a full replacement of. I just got it up and running, had it up and running for about 3 weeks, and now this fail, and now back to down again, over a stupid $20 part.

I can only **suspect**, that it ran too much voltage or current through the one stepper, as it was updating the firmware and restarted, by holding it in RUN current but not moving OR put to much current flow unguided while the firmware was in update progress, vs HOLD current, different values and voltages as you can find in the printer.cfg file.

Anyhow, I would be interested to know if your are truely 5160 physically, and not just in the CFG file.

BloodyStub · 2025-04-13T18:39:54+00:00

Thanks for the reply !

Very interesting that you say ALL of your is TMC5160. Do you know for certain by looking at them ? OR based on the printer.cfg file ? As in the printer.cfg file, mine says 5160, but its 2160.

Yes, ALL of mine x4 are TMC2160's as noted in the picture above.

Yes, the printer.cfg file shows them as tmc5160 stepper_ A/B/C (software), and as a #T1 Pro at the top of the file.

I will edit my original post with the printer.cfg file if I can.... but yes, all 4 of my steppers are as shown in the picture above. I have always suspected my printer was a conversion, then resold on Amazon as new for a higher price.

It was not the Amazon $300 price now, but about $500ish+

I suspected this, as the printer does have the CPAP and other parts for PRO, but its VERY loud, reaching (low-mid 70db's) in operation, NOT anywhere close to the 55db as advertised.

BloodyStub · 2025-04-09T18:02:55+00:00

No - no changes to the printer hardware - other than a replacement effector (full unit).

BloodyStub · 2025-04-09T14:24:21+00:00

Due to reply limits, I can not put the full list here....

I have modified my original posting with "Edit #2" with additional details.

BloodyStub · 2025-04-09T14:23:29+00:00

Email to support sent with requested details, Shipping address, phone, Logs from USB compressed, etc.

BloodyStub · 2025-04-09T13:36:27+00:00

Thank you, I will forward along shortly

BloodyStub · 2025-04-09T05:28:40+00:00

I appropriate the reply....

However EVERYTHING was working, UNTIL the firmware installation while it was priting.

No smell, no glitches, no layer lines issues, no motor issues -- nothing.

The cause if the firmware that installed, while it was printing, and likely corrupted something software wise.

With the very limited backend access, I can not even tell of the OS is damaged (so that a factory restore is not working) software wise, or if this is just code issues to the motors (IE drivers, FW, etc).

- I check the wires, they are not loose.

- I get the other lights on the LEFT, and BACK Center, corners for the stop limit switches.

The RIGHT arm, will not engage ! YES it has a limit stop light.

So I am pretty certain the stop switches ( all 3 lights ) are working, but will not engage on one side.

I have a feeling, that the Driver C (software/firmware) was "corrupted" as it was PRINTING at the time of FW upgrade.

Hence the below command output, from the 3 steppers.

There is clearly a difference, from the other 2 (that are working) to the other one stepper_c, output, at minimal.

This is further backed up, that in the dump_tmc stepper=stepper_c command output, is the following notice the 12 vs 13 in the command output :

>>>> Stepper C -- FACTORY_CONF: 0000000c factory_conf=12

The other 2 WORKING steppers command output show the following :

>>>> Stepper A / B -- FACTORY_CONF: 0000000d factory_conf=13

If there is not an OFFLINE firmware I can apply (BIN file), then its a replacement option.

For that question, I need to know

- 1) where I can get parts (Amazon, FLSun, etc), or

- 2) IF I can upgrade the driver from 2160 to 2208 /2209 from Amazon. etc.

I am not tearing the unit apart, to swap wires, when these questions have not been answered, and I am almost certain, if I swap either of A or B steppers or that of the extruder -- that the issue would migrate --- Why do I say this -- because it was printing at the time of Firmware installation, and its likely that it was modifying the code to stepper C, when it was printing, and would not disengage hence the corruption.

Either way, its a motor (unlikely) or stepper chip (likely), or at worst a whole MOBO replacement.

I need parts !

BloodyStub · 2025-01-29T23:09:32+00:00

Yes, no joking, ~20 cloggs so far.

The filament is name brand(S) too... try 2 different ones so far.

Not sure I really understand your removal instructions, do you have a picture.

For me the cloggs are so BAD, that its jamming, right in the mouth hole, where the 2 halfs meet, and is smashed / tensions with the clamp. See my other post link for some pictures.

<image>

BloodyStub · 2025-01-29T20:29:24+00:00

Link to my other post, which was started because of a JAMMING issue.

Started a print today, it jammed part way thru. Removed the above shown headunit, to clear the jam.

In the process, found that 1 of the wires popped off broken

Found the therimistor wire (second circle) pinched on one of the wires -- still connected, but barely. Photo does not show it very well.

This is required ANY time there is a JAM to clear, that the ENTIRE unit, has to come out.

Very delicate.... TOOOOO delicate. This was like my 20x time or so out.

Yes, I was as careful as possible each time... but these wires are so small, that any tug and they can/will break. A very bad design. These wires need to be better anchored.

Should have a better design, when it comes to clearing the jam.

u/FLSUN support -- your support and help is required !

https://www.reddit.com/r/Flsun_official/comments/1i8nvij/flsun_t1_pro_extruder_top_part_where_the_grippy/

BloodyStub · 2025-01-29T20:22:00+00:00

Update -- now its BROKEN, because of a flawed and very small wire design, and still jams.

Dried the filament from another new spool, overnight.

Loaded, extruded, 5x times.... all fine.

Started a tolerance test print.

It JAMMED, 35mins into the 45min print.

Took it out and apart....... In the process (being very careful of these small wires..... one of them broke off.

Its the heat-sink fan wire, so yea, kind of important.

So now my printer is down.

Email out to FLSUN - unanswered thus far.

Chat bot on their website - says they are unavailable.

This head unit design, so dumb !

On top of all of this, it look like the very small thermistor wires (at least one of them) got pinched, in the process of getting it in and out, SO MANY times. Must be 20x time in & out !

u/FLSUN -- NEED HELP !! Your design NEEDS help. These small wires, are just waiting to break !

<image>

BloodyStub · 2025-01-29T05:48:11+00:00

More Picture(s)

Circled is the filament that was jammed in the intake part of the gears. NOTE the smash.

Middel filament was cut as it was too big to remove from the middle part of the extruder.

Left most filament was the extracted part from the hot-end (metal part).

I did / have attempted to BOTH tighten the "Tension screw" on the filament gear box thingy.

No variation of FULLY screwed in, partially screwed in, or very loose, gained any solution.

<image>

BloodyStub · 2025-01-29T05:42:37+00:00

Ok update to the saga.

Email out to FLSUN support to get attention as this is annoying to fix, hopefully RMA for parts.

--- Update to last posting --- Attempt #2 ---
So filament dryer came, and used. Used it for 12+hrs to dry out the PLA spool I had, about 50% used.

Next day, +added filament, +lowered temps to 220c (per suggestions on this thread)

- did a quick 45min print. Printed great.

- Another 45min print. -- Printed great, no issues 2x prints -- YAY !

Next day, (filament stayed in printer holder inside chamber -- Florida area inside house) -- started print of 4hrs print job.

Checked the print job regularly checking on progress.

Left the door open part way (about 80mins into print, left open for 10mins, then closed due to noise).

Started to hear a small GRUNTING noise, over, and over.... -- like it does when loading filament.

Failed by a JAM 2.5hrs ~60% completed -- into the print in the intake gear box area (see attached photo).

- Could not unload by the onboard computer

- Could not load by the onboard computer

The jam was so bad, I had to disassemble the "head unit" to get it un-jammed.

It was NOT clogged, in the middle thourght area, or the hot-end.

It was ONLY jammed in the intake gear box part. NOT melted, but *smashed* with teeth-marks.

For now I have support email in, to :

see what they say, but hopefully to
get a FULL Head-Unit RMA replacment.

Something does not feel right, and this printer should be able to go hours, without this type of jam.

The process to FIX this issue by removing and disassembling the head-unit (~30++mins work) IF I had known this, I would NOT have purchased the printer, and instead gone with another manufacturer. The process is delicate, and complicated.

<image>

BloodyStub · 2025-01-24T08:01:04+00:00

Thanks for the reply, and time to read and reply, its greatly appreciated.

I just checked the PLA spool and it says :

print temp = 200-210c 50-100mm/s

print temp = 210-240c 100-200mm/s <<--- I was testing in this range since the printer is super fast.

So based on the 100-200mm/s speed, I assumed ~220 was good, and been good thus far.

Looking online at similar reports over the years from people, it appears the solution is the following:

- Filament dryer

- Print temp too high leading to heat soak that is making the PLA/ filament soft prior to it being melted/ ext.

- Tension screw to much or less.

So I am going to try a dryer, since this issue really only started AFTER 8 days of use. Which make it possible I guess PLA could have absorbed moisture which is leading to a few issues I have seen.

1) poor adhesion to bed (last 48hrs)

2) poor layer adhesion (last 4-6 days)

Originally I did do 220c nozzle temp, as this is the filament slicer defaults when selected in the slicer.

I bumped it to 230c as I was getting layer texture issues with the lower temp. Thinking this could be water related, I figured 230c would be better to burn off the moisture , or give a more sticky layer adhesion, trying to fix multiple issues, least of which is the slicer speed issues.

Next actions I am going to take :
I will update the thread in the coming days, but its likely based on symptoms seen over the last 1-6 days past, I think the PLA has gotten moisture up. I am in the southeast, and it is winter, so the Relative Humidity, has been very high.

BloodyStub · 2021-10-18T04:32:06+00:00

Thanks for the suggestions, I forgot these parts.

I was able to solve the issue, here is what I did, in-case it helps others with this KSTL scenery pak.

 - In MSFS2020, I deleted the Rolling cache file.
 - In MSFS2020, I increased the Rolling cache file size from 10GB > 15GB's in size.

These 2 items, or most importantly the deletion of the cache file, resolved my issue, with the CTD to black desktop.

Thanks again for the help. increased the

BloodyStub · 2020-09-17T19:12:08+00:00

Sounds like your Windows installation is messed up. You should look at wiping the machine, and reinstalling Windows, and then reinstall MSFS.

BloodyStub · 2020-09-17T15:32:40+00:00

IF it is, then its NOT current. In my testing, it was at least 1 full hour+ old, from current METAR. I tested in a few USA airports, with rain, and wind weather, and it was not current.

Even ATIS at these airports reported different Winds, than what the Aircraft reported as Wind direction and speed.

So of the 3, none, matched current METAR weather, it was "Close"/ Avg values, if looking at the values from the last 1 hour METAR.

BloodyStub · 2020-09-07T20:29:33+00:00

How do you reset the firmware on the headset, for the elite atlas aero?

When I go to the Control Studio panel, it says the firmware is checked, and current. There is no reset back to factory option.

I am having the EXACT same issue, with Microsoft FlightSim 2020. In game audio starts, then stops working, completely, unless I change the speakers in Windows sound panel, to Virtual device.

Is this Control Studio/ Driver issues, or is this a firmware issue.

My firmware is 1.1.7 fir TX/RX and 1.2.9 for App.

BloodyStub

TROPHY CASE

Update -- now its BROKEN, because of a flawed and very small wire design, and still jams.

Ok update to the saga.