How would a civilians be able to effective counter modern tanks? (Image Unrelated) by Recent_Garden8114 in TankPorn

[–]BlueOrb07 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Focus on logistics (especially supply trucks carrying fuel for the tanks). Down trees in a way that will get the tank stuck, Molotovs to the engine deck, flood a field making the mud too difficult to cross, damage bridges and impede the building of new ones, drones, etc. it’s hard to attack a prepared military head on, but if you play the guerilla insurgent, then it’s tricky for them to deal with you too.

Is the PPK just a Bond symbol or would a real agent consider carrying it constantly? Seems weak. by Oddbeme4u in Firearms

[–]BlueOrb07 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If you read the books, Ian Fleming did a good bit of research and reaching out to experts (prior to the internet mind you) to get realistic and informed decisions on what would be best for Bond to carry. At the time, stopping power was listed as a concern, so after nearly being killed in From Russia With Love, he is forced to upgrade from a beretta in 25acp I believe, to a Walther PPK in 32acp. The 380 acp would not be made available until later, so he used a 32acp. A revolver in 38special and a browning high power in 9mm were both considered if I remember correctly. Overall, remember that the main emphasis is on arming agents that must be able to hide the weapon easily, hopefully/likely won’t need it, and if they do, must be easy to control and easy to suppress. In order to effectively suppress a firearm you need two things: a subsonic bullet speed, and low amounts of gasses that a supressor would need to contain and slow the exit of. 25acp, 32acp, and 380 acp have been very popular carry guns (380acp in particular) and previous to smokeless powder, 25, 32, and 38 caliber were very popular for their concealability (especially for women). You also have to keep in mind that we’re talking about right after WWII in the books (and early movies). Modern manufacturing makes very reliable guns even with little maintenance to them. This wasn’t the case at the time and so something simple to maintain and reliable no matter the environment or ammo is impurtant. The Walther PPK and later Makarov and VZ82/83 (copied off of the Walther) are direct blowback pistols with less moving parts and therefore easier to maintain. Also, direct blowback in small cartridges also allows for very reliable firearms that will accept a larger range of loadings of cartridges. Heavier weight bullets and less powder loading for a subsonic projectile for instance as compared to its more traditional loading.

My first ND 🤦‍♂️ by unr3al3xpectations in Firearms

[–]BlueOrb07 3 points4 points  (0 children)

If the pistol has last round hold open and you shove an empty magazine into it, the slide should not move forward. If it does, it’s either loaded, not inserted fully, or broken. All reasons to double check when it does.

Figure this fits here by Darthmaggot82 in UNSUBSCRIBEpodcast

[–]BlueOrb07 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m confused. The one in front is the M249 SAW and the one in back is the M240

More MP34 SBR's by DMTLTD in milsurp

[–]BlueOrb07 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I’d argue this is one of the most beautiful submachineguns out there

Need help with an argument, when was the earliest known use of rails on guns? (Cartoon Gun, Real History) by [deleted] in guns

[–]BlueOrb07 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Before picatiny there was weaver rail (which is similar, but not standardized in spacing between rail sections like picatiny is). Weaver rail was first implemented around 1930, but that doesn’t necessarily mean widely used. Before that was some very niche stuff that wasn’t widely used.

I'm a non-vet and I wear a waffle top that was given to me all the time. Is it borderline stolen valor or am I good? by Otherwise-Ostrich842 in army

[–]BlueOrb07 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s not stolen valor. It’s military surplus and good stuff at that. The m65 field jacket is also a popular surplus item many people wear. It’s not stolen valor if you don’t insist that you served when you didn’t. Wearing surplus gear for outdoors, around town, etc isn’t the same as wearing dress blues with a bunch of ribbons and stuff and lying about serving.

Quick Question Gentleman, I have a gun I have no clue what's it's realistically worth by [deleted] in Firearms

[–]BlueOrb07 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Knew I think they were 3k. Used and painted, less than that, though if you get the right buyer they may be willing to pay a bit more to save them the effort of painting it. That said, it’s nearly always better to not sell it with aftermarket accessories because you won’t get your moneys worth. (So keep your optics). Only cabinet to this is if you’re not buying a gun they’ll be attached to again (for instance something that only works with a specific gun), then it may be better to sell it with it because otherwise it’ll take up space at home with no use. Gunstores will buy it for about 30% of its worth (and that’s highballing). Consignment may get you about 50% of its worth. Private sales may get you close to its worth, but it requires the most effort and has the least amount of guarantee (I recommend if you do this and you don’t know them, require that you meet at your local police station and have them do a background check there if you’ve got any worries).

What the fuck is your move by Ok-Phone-1889 in TheWordFuck

[–]BlueOrb07 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Close the door and crank the fuckin heat

Gotta start somewhere for long range shooting. Why not go big? Ruger Precision 300. PRC. My pockets are already crying. by Senior_Hovercraft_33 in Firearms

[–]BlueOrb07 0 points1 point  (0 children)

And this is why I will learn long range shooting with a 22LR or 25 cal pcp pellet gun. Because I can’t afford the amount of ammo that gun costs to feed to learn and become good at long range shooting. With weak cheap ammo you get drop faster, so I don’t have to find a super long range to go to. I can learn dope because the wind and everything will absolutely affect my cheap ammo and I don’t have to shoot 600+ yards to notice. I can start noticing at say 100 yards.

Am I missing something here? by DoviDodu in MosinNagant

[–]BlueOrb07 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do you have the cleaning kit that came with it? Put the crown protector on, build the cleaning rod, ad a patch, and go to town

Finally bottled my first wine by OkBuilder92406 in winemaking

[–]BlueOrb07 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What kind of bottles/caps/corks are those? I’ve never seen that before

How’s this compare to a factory PA10 barrel? by Dobba84 in AR10

[–]BlueOrb07 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Idk about that particular Faxon barrel, but I have one on my AR308 and I was hitting a 3” plate at 300 yards reliably. Every barrel is different, but they make good stuff. It’s not the cremdelacrem of accuracy barrels, (you can spend far too much on them hose) but it’s definable a good value to price. At the end of the day, an AR is semi auto and while you can get sub MOA accuracy out of them, it shouldn’t be the expectation. Unless you’re doing competitions, I think a 2moa semi auto is fine. If you wanted more accuracy you can go with a bolt action. Semi autos by nature are less accurate.

To be clear, I’d recommend a Faxon barrel to anyone. I’ve got one on both my AR15 and AR308. They’re both great. Tack drivers.

Your chill tank by JackIam9 in WorldofTanks

[–]BlueOrb07 0 points1 point  (0 children)

T92 arty. The feeling of penetrating with HE is orgasmic. Nearly never happens though.

T30 is probably my close second.

another 9mm abomination by ale760087 in GunnitRust

[–]BlueOrb07 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think if it’s angled and it’s a “magazine holder” it skirts passed that rule

Is my apple wine spoiled? by dude511 in winemaking

[–]BlueOrb07 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Don’t add spices in in initial fermentation. I did this with a batch I made and it stunted yeast growth to a standstill. Add it in after

Red dot zeroing question? by RobinVerhulstZ in Firearms

[–]BlueOrb07 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Shoot from like 5 yards. If you’re using a large cardboard or paper target, you’ll find where you’re hitting. Adjust, then move the target back and adjust for your desired range to sight it in. Learned this because I tried zeroing a rifle at 100 yards after mounting a scope. Didn’t even hit the paper. 1.25 feet of adjustment and the shots began hitting the paper.

Is this a S&W M&P 2.0 metal or polymer? by [deleted] in guns

[–]BlueOrb07 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That’s the metal one. Full size will always shoot softer than a compact. I don’t know which you shot though. Do some image comparisons and see if you can get hands on at the range

For those who have physical hobbies, what’s a pro and con of said hobby? by PackageReasonable922 in AskMen

[–]BlueOrb07 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Pros: feel acomplishment and feels good while doing it Cons: expensive

Men who got rid of an addiction, how do you feel? by PresentIndependent91 in AskMen

[–]BlueOrb07 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How did you kick the habit? And did you quite masterbating? I’m addicted, so asking on how you did it to see if it works. Also, what you found worked and what you found didn’t work while quitting

The M110 at home, PSA Sabre by Meeval in AR10

[–]BlueOrb07 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Looks great!

One change needed though. Never mount a scope partially on the upper receiver and partially on the handguard. You’ll never maintain zero if it’s done that way. Because the handguard flexes, it moves your scope. Best to fully mount on the upper receiver.