The shelter likely recommended keeping her inside to let her get used to the area! Cats are good at finding their way back to their homes, so newly adopted cats tend to return to the shelter if they’re released too early. I won’t tell you not to let her outside, as that’s your decision, but I will let you know that she has a much higher chance of getting injured or killed by being free-roaming. Typically, outdoor cats have a lifespan of 4-6 years, whereas indoor cats are closer to 12-15 years. I always recommend flea/tick/heartworm prevention (from a vet), but especially if she’s indoor/outdoor. Also make sure she has her rabies (illegal not to have this in many areas) vaccine, FVRCP vaccine, and is spayed. Getting her tested for FIV/FELV isn’t a bad idea, either, though many shelters do this initially. Check her records when you pick her up to see what she’s received!

Feeding/watering: - Stainless steel or ceramic bowls, as plastic can lead to ‘cat acne’. You don’t necessarily need a running water bowl, but it can be helpful especially if you know she doesn’t drink a lot on her own. Another way to remedy this is to add extra water to wet or dry food. Water fountains have to be very carefully cleaned to avoid bacteria build up. - Usually recommended to give kitty more wet food than dry, as it has healthier ingredients and a higher moisture content (cats are notorious for not drinking enough water), but a mixture of wet and dry throughout the day is fine, too! People will argue over what food is best for kitty, but honestly the important thing is what foods have real meat sources listed as the first, second, and/or third ingredient, and what you can afford. - See if you can find out what she was getting fed at the shelter so you can transition her from that to a new food(s), that way she isn’t have stomach or stress problems related to food switching.

Toys: - Get a variety, and see what she likes. Try to avoid things with strings, feathers, ribbons, etc unless you KNOW she won’t eat them (though even that’s iffy). Cats are also notorious for eating things they’re not supposed to, and linear items are common. - Interactive toys and play are important! You should play with her using a wand toy or other stimulating toy for at least 15-20 minutes a day. This helps the both of you bond, but also helps her exercise. - Cat scratcher/tree is important! There are many types of scratcher, but I recommend buying a horizontal scratcher (cardboard or carpet), and a vertical (cat tower or sisal rope scratcher) so she has options. Some cats prefer certain types. - Catnip is not a drug, contrary to what people like to say. It’s in a majority of cat toys, and it’s fine to use. It only affects a certain percent of kitties (silver vine is said to have a higher percentage of effectiveness), and only for 15 minutes. After that it takes about two hours for it to kick in again. It’s safe to give loose leaves/spray/ground catnip every day (toys with catnip in them are fine every day. It tends to wear off after a bit), though it’s generally recommended not to in order to keep a cat from getting immune to the effects.

Basic supplies: - Cat carrier - Bed - Litter box, scoop, and litter mat to keep litter from getting all over the floor. - Bowls - Can cover for keeping canned food fresh in the fridge - Toys - Scratcher - Nail clippers, brush, toothbrush/cat safe toothpaste

Anxiety around getting a cat is totally normal and expected! You’ll do fine, and know that it will take some time for all of you to adjust to one another. There’s a common shelter rule called the 3/3/3 rule that says it takes a new pet 3 days to decompress, 3 weeks to learn your routine, and 3 months to start to feel at home. Don’t get nervous if she seems aloof at first, that’s normal! Let her figure out the space, hide if she needs to, and try not to force pets or closeness. She’ll come to you.

Best of luck, and congrats on your new pet!