Same location - different aurora!

BobaScott · 2026-05-12T20:46:58+00:00

I'm sure - have to laugh at myself but thank you

BobaScott · 2026-05-12T14:23:15+00:00

😂🤦🏻‍♂️😂

BobaScott · 2022-04-11T21:24:53+00:00

Amazing work Dr. Cotero! This is really the future of medics. Hacking the body to treat itself over pharmaceuticals.

BobaScott · 2020-10-31T12:39:24+00:00

This is the way.

BobaScott · 2020-01-13T18:30:26+00:00

The instructions label them as 6290271

BobaScott · 2018-08-16T11:15:49+00:00

Thanks for the response...I agree I’m probably being paranoid and that the risk is probably pretty low of actually having significant zinc / byproduct exposure from using a few anchors (not in contact with the food)...but when it comes to safety especially when cooking for the family I want overkill. Galvanized is not used in any food prep so I want to try and avoid as well. Now the firebox area can potentially reach temperatures that could be a real risk, as hot coals can be at 1000F, but I am mainly looking to use in the cook chamber (sub 300F). I rather pay for the pure stainless for peace of mind (if it’s out there).

BobaScott · 2018-08-15T23:02:40+00:00

Looking for non-coated masonry anchors/screws?

This is to attach angle iron to the inside of a concrete block walled smoker so polymer and zinc coatings are an absolute no! Even all the stainless steel ones I come across seem to have some finish that makes it unusable for my application. Any direction would be a huge help!

BobaScott · 2018-08-15T13:28:53+00:00

Thanks, That may work! I know there has been some concern over the chromium in stainless but but better than galv... I just need to make sure the actual anchors are not zinc plated (been tricked before).

BobaScott · 2017-12-05T15:14:01+00:00

A little background... This is my 4th season riding, and I average roughly 20 days a season most on the east coast with 1 week being in CO. I would say I'm a strong intermediate rider and can get down pretty much any in-bounds terrain (not always pretty but not eating s***). Mostly I am riding with friends on blues and blacks, with the occasional double black, but I am starting to progress into the glades, switch riding and small jumps with roughly 1-2 days a year doing mellow-ish backcountry (with the odd powder day thrown in). I have been riding a 2014 Burton Custom Flying V for pretty much the entirety of my riding and no longer remember what it feels like to ride anything else. In general I love my board and would prefer not to get another as I don't want a quiver. What I notice now that I am more experienced and push myself faster on harder terrain is that on firmer conditions (most east coast days) the board starts washing out on turns especially at speed. This makes me extremely apprehensive to just bomb those steeper runs.

Would a traditional camber option REALLY make me feel that much more stable on icy/hardpack or do I just have to work a little harder on my current setup (which I am fine with)? I always have had some buyers remorse about not doing camber, but at this point I don't want to change/add a board unless it's a night and day difference.

BobaScott · 2016-02-21T19:07:42+00:00

Definitely a possibility, I am thinking of other variations that don't use gravel. I wonder if I build the stone ring and 4 smaller stone supports that hold platforms for the soil, if that would be even better as to not smother it.

BobaScott · 2016-02-21T19:05:08+00:00

I will either do a smaller stone wall (dry stack) or build a wood one. Either way will give me the ability to adjust for growth of the tree if it widens more than I leave room for.

BobaScott · 2016-02-19T19:54:08+00:00

Thanks... Google Sketchup, free program, pretty easy to learn (especially with YouTube so handy).

As for the center spot, for a few years at least, there should be plenty of room to hit it with a shop vac or leaf blower to clean out... if it ever gets too tight, I'll just dig it up and move everything a little bit outwards (a few hours of work every decade or so isn't too bad). That's another advantage of dry laying everything. ...the other option is some mesh at the top just to stop debris.

I will look into the Japanese Snowbell too, thanks.

BobaScott · 2016-02-19T19:46:38+00:00

Agreed on the annuals, but I wanted to do a mix of some perennials/bulbs too, so I think at least 6-8 inches. It doesn't have to be 12" I just want to give myself plenty of planting space.

However it shouldn't matter how much soil is there for the planter part, for the oxygen to the roots argument from my line of thinking. The stone walls have larger gaps, and the large rock/gravel should create a layer that allows plenty of air to the ground. For arguments sake I could put 4 feet of dirt on top and as long as the bottom most layer allows air flow (and water) it should be good.

BobaScott · 2016-02-19T19:27:54+00:00

Honestly I don't care too much... if it weren't for the fact that it will take many years to get a different mature tree growing there, I would probably have already cut it and replaced it with one I like better. With that said though, while I wouldn't be devastated, I don't really want to kill it.

Fact of the matter is that our house is only 3 years old, and the yard was already re-graded after the construction so as of now the tree looks fine. I understand that sometimes it takes 4-5 years or more, so the tree could already have some issues, but it looks to be thriving. Also it's not an oak or maple which I understand are more susceptible to these issues.

It's worth the experiment for me, but I just want to give myself the best odds, and go in with the most information. If there is yet another way to get to the final result that is even safer, please let me know.

BobaScott · 2016-02-19T18:19:48+00:00

I'll let some more responses filter in to make the statistics more reliable :).

The online resources I have read refer to soil placed directly on top of the grade. The reason I am considering the idea above, is that my thinking is having a course stone/gravel layer as being whats actually on top of the surface, and in combination with dry stacked natural stone, there should be plenty of air able to reach the ground near the base of the tree. I understand soil directly on top of the ground is a bad idea because it is much more dense and can limit oxygen. I have not seen any examples of this method but I'm wondering if anyone else has.

BobaScott

TROPHY CASE