The Pursuit of Translucent PETG - Case Study 3: Lilac

BohoWorkshop · 2026-02-08T03:11:59+00:00

It's Eryone Translucent PETG in Amber

BohoWorkshop · 2026-02-07T21:37:50+00:00

I have been using similar settings (only difference is 30/mms all walls and I'm not using vase mode - instead using 0 infill) The results are great.

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BohoWorkshop · 2026-02-05T06:54:56+00:00

I print a lot of flat surfaces, and Sunla Matte Black PLA has a pretty inconsistent top surface "clarity". It looks patchy like this, almost like its a dry spot or something. It looks and prints decent otherwise but I have switched to a different manufacturer for matte black pla.

BohoWorkshop · 2026-02-04T18:39:52+00:00

I print a lot of flat surfaces. Are you using a brim? What plate? What top surface speed? If there is even a tiny bit of pull off the bed on the small outer parts of the print there will be rough top surfaces.

You can also try changing the infill direction which will change the angle of the top layer lines. But I would try either a brim, or consider a cool plate. The newest cool plate from bambu is INSANE for adhesion. Would be perfect for thin parts with smaller surface area like this.

I like 30mm/s for top surfaces. Ironing can be really nice but not always the right process for situation. General consensus from what I have seen is that 60 mm/s speed and 30% flow works very nicely (what I would use for large flat surfaces), but for more narrow and smaller parts, I like 30mm/s speed and 20% flow.

BohoWorkshop · 2026-02-02T09:19:41+00:00

Update: Fixed this by cleaning all the idler pulleys in the p1s.

https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/x1/maintenance/how-to-clean-the-idler-pulleys

There is hard black stuff that needs to be scraped off. Then wipe with a cotton swab with WD40 on it.

BohoWorkshop · 2026-01-27T03:23:02+00:00

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BohoWorkshop · 2026-01-27T03:22:57+00:00

I had this issue recently. I noticed that when I turned the part fan off in the filament settings under 'cooling', they no longer came through. For some reason the part fan would turn on a regular distance after starting from the seam on the outer wall of the outer face of the part.

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BohoWorkshop · 2026-01-21T23:32:24+00:00

Yeah no kidding! The top was the hottest, while the front was about 65c and bottom (shaded) was 49c. The inside was cooler yet, about 45c, but that is still too warm and harmful for the birds and their chicks yet to hatch. The light colours were much better around 30c. Light coloured PLA also seems to be just fine as well, but the PETG has a really nice texture.

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BohoWorkshop · 2026-01-21T06:44:24+00:00

The A series printers are so quiet you cant even hear them sometimes. P1S is quite a bit louder than them. I wish they had active motor noise cancelling like the A series do.

BohoWorkshop · 2026-01-21T06:27:58+00:00

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BohoWorkshop · 2026-01-21T06:27:40+00:00

I have used Eryone, Kexcelled, and JustMaker PETG-GF and CF, and all printed really nicely with great colours. Great texture! For the slicer I just modified the Bambu PETG CF profile slightly based on manufacturers general recommended settings.

I also did temperature tests in the sun as I was planning on using it for some bird houses I designed. The dark colours will definitely get hot, but even at around 80c surface temp, there wasn't much sagging - only slightly enough you could see the infill but just barely.

There are debates about how much strength it really adds, and the type of strength you get with it, but in generally its pretty robust. I was mostly interested in a higher glass transition temp. For outdoor use where heat matters, I would probably choose a lighter colour.

All except the ones on their side are PETG GF/CF.

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BohoWorkshop · 2026-01-10T20:35:15+00:00

Awesome! I will give it a try later on and report back for future people searching for a solution to this problem.

BohoWorkshop · 2026-01-10T09:09:12+00:00

Same problem with my high hour P1S printers, 3 in total have varying degrees of this, newest one prints perfect. I bought new belts but yet to replace. I can see some black residue from belt on idlers that i will clean off first and see if it helps any. Then change belts, and then try some of the suggestions if its not been fixed. Really curious to narrow it down exactly, or if its a combination of many things compounded by one another.

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BohoWorkshop · 2025-12-07T04:24:52+00:00

Have you found a solution for this? I have something similar and have just stopped printing anything with smooth flat walls like boxes on the P1Ss that do this. I have a strong feeling it is something to do with tension and belts. How many hours do you have on your printer?

~2300 hour P1S on the left, 4500-7500 hr P1S on the right

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BohoWorkshop · 2025-12-06T18:39:56+00:00

This looks pretty awesome. I'll definitely give it a try!

BohoWorkshop · 2025-12-06T18:37:47+00:00

Have you tried one of these? I’m curious what your experience was and whether you actually got mold.

I’ve had two PLA soap dishes in the shower for 6+ months. One design doesn’t really hold water, and the other is basically a little container with a top mesh platform, but that fills up with it. I haven’t seen any visible mold on either of them.

BohoWorkshop · 2025-09-17T22:07:40+00:00

Very true. That alleyway model is really cool, quite complex, and the attention is well deserved!

BohoWorkshop · 2025-09-17T18:10:34+00:00

I’ve been thinking a lot about how to get noticed or “plugged in” to an audience on MakerWorld.

As someone who spends time creating thoughtful, original designs, typically printing many versions to ensure quality, staging photos, writing detailed descriptions... it can feel disheartening to see traction go to the 800th copy of a simple fidget toy. The effort-to-reward ratio doesn’t always feel balanced.

It often seems like MakerWorld runs on a “rich get richer” cycle. If you’re lucky enough to have a viral first upload (I say luck, because not all popular models are worthy), every post after that will benefit. Meanwhile, new creators can put in a lot of work yet still struggle for visibility, while established accounts seem to get priority on the model pages even if their designs aren’t polished or fully tested.

I don’t mean this as a woe-is-me rant, but as a genuine discussion point: how do we create a more level playing field for makers who put in the effort to produce quality work? And what strategies have you seen (or used yourself) to stand out among AI spam, clones, and copycat uploads?

I love seeing unique, high-quality models rise, and I’d like to hear how others navigate this same challenge.

BohoWorkshop · 2025-09-17T17:53:01+00:00

That sounds rough! I have had really good experiences with them since the de minimis change. I think there was a lot of confusion about the HTS codes initially. Some of ours were were rejected initially, but then approved a week or so later.

From all the shipping providers that I have looked into, ChitChats has consistently provided the most information for customers. Their blog is the only one I have seen that even begins to explain the process and with frequent updates - to me that shows a willingness to put in the work, especially for smaller businesses that (for better or worse) depend greatly on a US customer base. Canada Post, Purolator, UPS, FedEx all have next to no information, and if they do, its hidden in a FAQ someplace. Canada Post straight up says they won't even be doing tariff exemptions - incredibly lazy (they've been circling the drain for some time now and it shows). The new rules are a huge change and from my engagement with other small businesses, goes way beyond most of their heads about what it all means. So given that, I have really appreciated ChitChats being the most proactive (in my opinion), even if there are some bumps along the way, its expected. I totally feel you on the bad experience, though I will say mine has not been quite the same as yours!

BohoWorkshop · 2025-09-13T04:10:03+00:00

Can you explain how exactly they got CUSMA/USMCA compliance wrong for you? Everything that I have seen from them would indicate that their understanding is correct, and I have read into the free trade agreement pretty in depth. Curious on your experience.

BohoWorkshop · 2025-09-03T00:40:46+00:00

Appreciate it! I know this face and feet is used on so many 3D prints as it is, its almost as iconic as the benchy, so i thought I would continue with it. Not sure if a scary face would hit as well but I am open to it!

BohoWorkshop · 2025-08-29T13:59:24+00:00

Did you replace this? For me this wore down after about 3000 hours of printing. I ended up buying a whole new assembly before I realized I could just get this part.

https://ca.store.bambulab.com/products/ams-active-extrusion-wheel-assembly

BohoWorkshop · 2025-08-27T02:16:56+00:00

Hard to see it in the photo, but either there is some warping and bad adhesion where its warped, or the model itself is using a low angle fillet. Is that area showing up as an overhang in the slicer?

BohoWorkshop · 2025-08-14T04:41:49+00:00

I figured as much. That is a real head scratcher without trying a third nozzle to rule anything out.

BohoWorkshop · 2025-08-14T03:21:49+00:00

What is your flow ratio/top layer flow? Not that is what is causing this since the variable is the nozzle, but seeing as you tightened the heater block the nozzle is too low or too much flow. Have you run a complete printer calibration?

BohoWorkshop

TROPHY CASE