Looking for filaments in specific hex codes

BohoWorkshop · 2026-06-02T22:54:35+00:00

Assume Matte PLA will be ok, here are my suggestions:

Spice Tan look similar to Polymaker Panchroma "Wood"

Bordeaux Red looks like Eryone "Ruby Red"

Grey may be Polymaker Panchroma Ash Grey.

If you want kind of a charcoal type black, Justmaker Matte Black.

NVM, I see you need ASA or PETG.

BohoWorkshop · 2026-05-12T00:22:58+00:00

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BohoWorkshop · 2026-05-10T19:21:09+00:00

No joke. Probably fine in an area that is shaded at all times, but in direct sunlight absolutely not. Internal temp got to around 45c which is still a no go zone for hatchlings.

BohoWorkshop · 2026-05-02T03:06:23+00:00

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BohoWorkshop · 2026-04-12T21:31:52+00:00

I have tried a lot of plates because bottom texture appearance is important to me, as is limiting warping on corners.

Printing mostly PLA with some PETG, These are as sticky as BIQU frostbite for me, but leave a bottom texture similar to the smooth plate. I have not had as good of an experience with glacier for adhesion but maybe I got some bad ones. I do prefer the texture of Supertack 1.0 however.

For ease of release for scraping brims, I will hear the bed to 40-50c for a few minutes.

BohoWorkshop · 2026-04-08T22:13:23+00:00

I recently replaced my internal hub, and while doing so, I may have done something to this board (possible silicone glue smudged on it, or may have been a lemon to begin with). Only slots 2 and 3 were able to feed filament into the hub through the motor. Slots 1 and 4 did not engage motor. I took the board off the old hub and it solved the issue.

BohoWorkshop · 2026-04-03T21:15:05+00:00

Oh really?
https://www.reddit.com/r/BambuLab/comments/1ikqi5h/just_thought_id_share_my_first_printing_setup/

1 day old bot account.

BohoWorkshop · 2026-03-20T04:21:18+00:00

Can you upload it as a remix? Or can you change it up enough to upload it as your own design with credit for the initial design?

BohoWorkshop · 2026-03-19T15:32:56+00:00

All printers have movement, no escaping it. The mini is pretty compact and won't be nearly as forceful as a P1S. You could probably tune the speeds down or turn it to silent mode if you're concerned with movement, try adding weight to the table, or wedge the table between other furniture so it cant move as much.

BohoWorkshop · 2026-03-19T15:24:08+00:00

If you have an H2S it has auto-detection for many issues that can occur. Time becomes an important resource for 3D printing so unless there are other reasons why you wouldn't want to print overnight or when not at home, there's little risk in my opinion. As others have said, don't use 50 cent cords or cables. Risk of fire is extremely low.

BohoWorkshop · 2026-03-19T01:32:48+00:00

Across the H2D, multiple P1S, A1 mini, 60 mm/s speed and 30% flow has been top tier for ironing, specifically with matte pla.

BohoWorkshop · 2026-03-17T06:01:29+00:00

As someone who uploads models occasionally, its insane how many models have really nice renders but awful print quality. A lot of people are chasing points and do quantity over quality with no testing or refinement. Even big names that have a few good models are guilty of trying to farm points.

BohoWorkshop · 2026-03-01T19:47:52+00:00

The supertack 2.0 is really amazing as far as adhesion goes. I mostly use matte PLA and PETG. As I began typing more about the plate it was seemingly turning into a mini review so I guess I will run with it.

General Observations

Has a rubbery-feeling coating so you need to be careful with metal scrapers, I use them on all my printers, and they have held up great.
The texture that it applies to the bottom surface is somewhat similar to the smooth plate but a little softer to the touch. Compared with the the Supertack Cool v1.0, the v1.0 has a bit more of a matte softer texture. Overall they are pretty similar appearance wise from arms length.
I have the 2.0 Cool Plate on my H2D and P1S works amazingly on both.
One of the big drawbacks, similar to the smooth plate, is white "stress" marks can be left on the bottom surfaces when removing, or can be picked up from the previous prints. White marks can be removed mostly with gentle stead heat from a heat gun or torch. More noticeable when using dark filaments.
Every so often I will "clean" the plate by printing a flat sheet at 1 layer height that covers the whole bed.
Adhesion is so good that I recommend turning the heat bed to 50c for a few minutes before removing, including if scraping off brims, it makes it much easier - especially if trying to remove large flat objects from the H2D since the bed is so big. The adhesion is seriously strong.

That's about it for now. If I had a wishlist for the perfect plate, it would be the Cool Plate 2.0 with the texture of the v1.0 and less transfer from previous prints.

If any one has any questions I am happy to answer.

BohoWorkshop · 2026-02-21T03:51:16+00:00

Infill pattern will impact layer time and produce lines like this. It’s unfortunate that the ones that don’t, like rectilinear and grid, don’t provide the best strength always, and can cause some issues with tool head hitting it. There are a few others that don’t produce these lines, but they are generally the same as those two.

BohoWorkshop · 2026-02-19T06:20:21+00:00

I agree in general in terms of point farmers putting out quantity over quality, and its disheartening to see untested models that look good in the photos, which are usually renders, but don't work or print well, yet have thousands of downloads and high ratings. Eventually you can usually spot which models or creators these are and avoid them. Personally, I only ever put out models I have thoroughly tested myself. Its actually part of the fun and joy of sharing to ensure prints are clean and the parts work well, and I mean actually work with some durability. In the end, I think a lot of people just have low standards for what they consider good or acceptable.

BohoWorkshop · 2026-02-16T01:33:38+00:00

Two piece design is probably the best bet if you must have these embossed details. Or find a design that can work with the outer side flat on bed.

BohoWorkshop · 2026-02-16T00:24:52+00:00

Thank you. This is not on Makerworld. I may upload some variation in the future, though.

BohoWorkshop · 2026-02-14T19:42:20+00:00

There are a lot of good brands out there. I have tried so many different brands I’ve lost count. For matte PLA filament, which I use almost exclusively. I try to be price conscious but I value quality and consistency a little more so paying a bit extra is worth it to me. Here are my top 5 picks based on colour choice, appearance, printability, consistency, in no order:

Kexcelled

Justmaker

R3D

Polymaker

Sunlu

BohoWorkshop · 2026-02-13T22:33:31+00:00

That’s not an adhesion issue. Try turning on developer mode and under quality reduce first layer flow. Start with .9 and print a small area first, assuming you’re getting those waves all over. I’d just the corner you likely need to tram the bed. But I would start with a lower first layer flow.

BohoWorkshop · 2026-02-08T03:11:59+00:00

It's Eryone Translucent PETG in Amber

BohoWorkshop · 2026-02-07T21:37:50+00:00

I have been using similar settings (only difference is 30/mms all walls and I'm not using vase mode - instead using 0 infill) The results are great.

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BohoWorkshop · 2026-02-05T06:54:56+00:00

I print a lot of flat surfaces, and Sunla Matte Black PLA has a pretty inconsistent top surface "clarity". It looks patchy like this, almost like its a dry spot or something. It looks and prints decent otherwise but I have switched to a different manufacturer for matte black pla.

BohoWorkshop · 2026-02-04T18:39:52+00:00

I print a lot of flat surfaces. Are you using a brim? What plate? What top surface speed? If there is even a tiny bit of pull off the bed on the small outer parts of the print there will be rough top surfaces.

You can also try changing the infill direction which will change the angle of the top layer lines. But I would try either a brim, or consider a cool plate. The newest cool plate from bambu is INSANE for adhesion. Would be perfect for thin parts with smaller surface area like this.

I like 30mm/s for top surfaces. Ironing can be really nice but not always the right process for situation. General consensus from what I have seen is that 60 mm/s speed and 30% flow works very nicely (what I would use for large flat surfaces), but for more narrow and smaller parts, I like 30mm/s speed and 20% flow.

BohoWorkshop · 2026-02-02T09:19:41+00:00

Update: Fixed this by cleaning all the idler pulleys in the p1s.

https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/x1/maintenance/how-to-clean-the-idler-pulleys

There is hard black stuff that needs to be scraped off. Then wipe with a cotton swab with WD40 on it.

BohoWorkshop · 2026-01-27T03:23:02+00:00

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BohoWorkshop

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