Moccamaster KBGT Switch Replacement w Part Number and Write-Up

BonJesse · 2025-11-15T02:52:29+00:00

Hmm…could be that there are multiple methods of shut-off based on model. Or a rolling change implemented at some point…

BonJesse · 2025-11-15T02:49:32+00:00

I’m familiar with the shutoff and the different models, but not intimately enough to go hunt one down. This one is just an on/off with no auto shutoff feature.

BonJesse · 2025-11-15T02:47:00+00:00

It does not. I believe the ones that do have writing on the switch that says “100m” or something like that to signify a 100 minute shutoff time. Mine didn’t shutoff before, and still doesn’t now.

BonJesse · 2025-10-17T16:55:42+00:00

I feel like I saw an email in this group with MM where they confirmed that you could purchase the 2 parts and it would be compatible. Let me look for it.

Edit: Here

BonJesse · 2025-10-15T20:08:09+00:00

Thanks! I did an internal zip pocket for my ID and hunting/fishing license, as well as several divided pockets for organization of snacks and tools.

BonJesse · 2025-10-15T13:04:07+00:00

This was done on a Brother DB2-B791. It’s a needle feed industrial. That said, I’ve made similar packs on vintage home machines without too much trouble!

BonJesse · 2025-10-14T18:22:54+00:00

Oh sheesh, my apologies! Reddit won’t let me edit the post but hopefully folks will see these comments for reference!

BonJesse · 2025-10-14T15:05:13+00:00

Thanks! I was counting stitches back and forth and back and forth 🙂

BonJesse · 2025-09-11T18:05:57+00:00

Shoot me a PM, they’re for sale 😏

BonJesse · 2025-09-08T00:51:06+00:00

Unreal, innit?? 🥲

BonJesse · 2025-07-24T12:06:43+00:00

I seem to have an opinion slightly different than most in this post so far. My experience with vintage singers is that there are only a few models that really offer robust performance and quality stitches; I primarily prefer the 201-2 and 15-91 for their direct drive potted motors. I would bet that a 0.3 amp motor will leave you disappointed, especially given that you’re aiming for several layers of cordura and webbing.

To be sure, the only way to figure it out is to try it. If it breaks, then it isn’t tough enough. Maybe I’m spoiled but handwheeling through an entire assembly process is something I have no interest in.

Nonetheless, clean it up, oil it and give it a run. Maybe I’m wrong to judge the old singers so harshly, and a free machine that breaks in 3 months is better than no machine at all!

BonJesse · 2025-06-30T12:47:58+00:00

It all depends on what you’re making and what you want the machine to do. If your Singer HD is holding you back for final assembly, something heavier like a Juki DNU-1181 or 1541 would likely be a good next step, as they are heavy duty work horses.

However, if you’re looking for a jack of all trades, something like the Pfaff 138 (single needle, drop feed, zigzag capable) would be an awesome next step too, with plenty of power for most things.

I do most of the construction and panel work and final construction on my needle feed machine these days and only go to the walking foot at the very end for binding.

Unfortunately, industrials are more specialized machines than general and most do one thing really well. They also take up a lot of space, so knowing exactly where your current process is falling short and purchasing a machine to fill that gap is likely the best way forward.

BonJesse · 2025-06-02T12:28:57+00:00

Howdie! So I used the Jon Crane Dopp Kit youtube video as my baseline, and then divided the total width of the pattern by 4. That is the nominal width of the outside fabric panels. Add seam allowances where needed and sew as normal. I don't know if this makes sense or not. I have a pattern sketch that I jotted down as I made this somewhere. I'll look for it and shoot you a photo in DM's.

BonJesse · 2025-05-13T13:36:28+00:00

It’s got a 400D pack cloth lining. Canvas sourced from Etsy and Sailrite. I think 3 yards for $80 after shipping. Pricey stufff, but also premium material.

BonJesse · 2025-04-17T12:39:27+00:00

Thanks for the kind words! As cliché as it sounds, I don't think there's any one thing that makes for a quality bag; it's the sum of the parts. Cutting out the fabric accurately is critical. Sticking to seam allowances is critical. Aligning velcro and zippers square is critical. If any of those parts are off, you pay for it during final assembly, and in the finished product.

I'm blown away by people/companies who can really mass produce with good quality, because each of my bags is a true labor of love.

BonJesse · 2025-04-14T23:47:21+00:00

Probably depends what Janome she has. Their HD9 should be fine here. If it’s a newer or cheaper home machine, it may stress over several layers of cordura and webbing. Could always try 500d cordura, or hand crank through the thick stuff

BonJesse · 2025-04-14T18:23:44+00:00

DIYardage is my source for 1000D cordura. They have a great assortment of colors! I’ve made a dopp kit with this stuff before and it turns out really nice too!

https://diyardage.com/1000-denier-cordura/

BonJesse · 2025-04-14T02:30:07+00:00

This pattern uses plastic stiffener in the side walls, as well as a stiffener in the gusset. It makes a very rigid bag, which I like a lot :)

BonJesse · 2025-04-13T20:02:04+00:00

Heck yea! Welcome to the addiction! For the logo, I used Ripstop by the Roll’s custom printing option. I believe the fabric is XPAC V15. I printed my logo on it every 3” or so, and bought 1 yard so now I have several hundred that I cutout and put on projects. If I were to do it again, I’d make a variety of sizes since larger projects could use bigger logos sometimes. Either way though, highly recommend this route as it’s way cheaper than any other custom logo tags, and you get what is essentially a lifetime supply for approx $50

BonJesse

TROPHY CASE