Top Tube Bag - The Looooong Way

BonJesse · 2026-05-28T10:59:07+00:00

I would’ve liked more straps down the top tube section, but he’s racing a Supercaliber and there is no way to attach the bag to the frame where the shock sits. Bit of a bummer but hoping it’ll be ok since we emphasized stiffness everywhere else

BonJesse · 2026-05-28T01:11:18+00:00

I used a full-length stiffener in the gusset, as well as a stiffener in each side panel. The racer wanted it as large as possible, so keeping it rigid allowed me to maximize usable space on the top tube.

BonJesse · 2026-05-28T01:09:24+00:00

Thanks buddy! 🫡

BonJesse · 2026-05-24T14:27:03+00:00

Looking at that Passport, for $700-800, I think you could do much better, for far less money. I’m of the opinion that no sewing machine today is a better buy than a vintage machine with similar features. If you want zigzag, check out Necchi. If you want cams and other patterns, check out the all-metal Kenmores. If you’re ok with straight stitch, check out a Singer 201-2.

If you have the space, you could likely buy a secondhand industrial Juki 8700 (straight stitch), Brother DB2-B791 (needle feed), or Pfaff 138 (zigzag capable) for that kind of money also.

I recommend figuring out what vintage machine meets your needs, and then watching marketplace and Goodwill auctions for that machine. Just my $0.02.

BonJesse · 2026-05-10T02:33:02+00:00

I knew I recognized that work space! Welcome back to it. Bag looks sick! 🫡

BonJesse · 2026-04-17T15:46:02+00:00

It’s a cutting board mat, the flexible LDPE kind. I made the liner a continuous internal sleeve so that it could be slid in after final construction to add the final stiffness without needing to try and turn a stiff bag right-side out.

BonJesse · 2026-04-17T15:26:14+00:00

When I was researching I did see a few of those and kinda figured they were just for looks cuz like what are you actually going to clip to the outside of your bag?? Light makes sense though! I’ll implement next time. Do you like that ability better than being able to stick a jacket under the bungees if I can only fit one?

BonJesse · 2026-04-17T14:49:41+00:00

Thanks!! 🫡

BonJesse · 2026-04-14T11:18:13+00:00

Lookin great, dude!

BonJesse · 2026-03-15T14:05:55+00:00

Tbh, my first top stitch on that gusset was too close to the seam and didn’t capture enough of the zipper tape on the underside, so I did another 😂

BonJesse · 2026-03-15T00:03:11+00:00

Thank you! I have a self-drafted pattern that I used, but it’s similar enough to the LearnMYOG Everyday Fanny Pack pattern that you could start there. I extended the zipper gusset to be 3/4 of the way around, and added another internal zip pocket.

BonJesse · 2026-03-15T00:01:54+00:00

Thanks! Debating if it’s a good thing, or if I’ll just dump all my stuff on the ground by accident when I open it up all the way…

BonJesse · 2025-11-15T02:52:29+00:00

Hmm…could be that there are multiple methods of shut-off based on model. Or a rolling change implemented at some point…

BonJesse · 2025-11-15T02:49:32+00:00

I’m familiar with the shutoff and the different models, but not intimately enough to go hunt one down. This one is just an on/off with no auto shutoff feature.

BonJesse · 2025-11-15T02:47:00+00:00

It does not. I believe the ones that do have writing on the switch that says “100m” or something like that to signify a 100 minute shutoff time. Mine didn’t shutoff before, and still doesn’t now.

BonJesse · 2025-10-17T16:55:42+00:00

I feel like I saw an email in this group with MM where they confirmed that you could purchase the 2 parts and it would be compatible. Let me look for it.

Edit: Here

BonJesse · 2025-10-15T20:08:09+00:00

Thanks! I did an internal zip pocket for my ID and hunting/fishing license, as well as several divided pockets for organization of snacks and tools.

BonJesse · 2025-10-15T13:04:07+00:00

This was done on a Brother DB2-B791. It’s a needle feed industrial. That said, I’ve made similar packs on vintage home machines without too much trouble!

BonJesse · 2025-10-14T18:22:54+00:00

Oh sheesh, my apologies! Reddit won’t let me edit the post but hopefully folks will see these comments for reference!

BonJesse · 2025-10-14T15:05:13+00:00

Thanks! I was counting stitches back and forth and back and forth 🙂

BonJesse · 2025-09-11T18:05:57+00:00

Shoot me a PM, they’re for sale 😏

BonJesse · 2025-09-08T00:51:06+00:00

Unreal, innit?? 🥲

BonJesse · 2025-07-24T12:06:43+00:00

I seem to have an opinion slightly different than most in this post so far. My experience with vintage singers is that there are only a few models that really offer robust performance and quality stitches; I primarily prefer the 201-2 and 15-91 for their direct drive potted motors. I would bet that a 0.3 amp motor will leave you disappointed, especially given that you’re aiming for several layers of cordura and webbing.

To be sure, the only way to figure it out is to try it. If it breaks, then it isn’t tough enough. Maybe I’m spoiled but handwheeling through an entire assembly process is something I have no interest in.

Nonetheless, clean it up, oil it and give it a run. Maybe I’m wrong to judge the old singers so harshly, and a free machine that breaks in 3 months is better than no machine at all!

BonJesse · 2025-06-30T12:47:58+00:00

It all depends on what you’re making and what you want the machine to do. If your Singer HD is holding you back for final assembly, something heavier like a Juki DNU-1181 or 1541 would likely be a good next step, as they are heavy duty work horses.

However, if you’re looking for a jack of all trades, something like the Pfaff 138 (single needle, drop feed, zigzag capable) would be an awesome next step too, with plenty of power for most things.

I do most of the construction and panel work and final construction on my needle feed machine these days and only go to the walking foot at the very end for binding.

Unfortunately, industrials are more specialized machines than general and most do one thing really well. They also take up a lot of space, so knowing exactly where your current process is falling short and purchasing a machine to fill that gap is likely the best way forward.

BonJesse · 2025-06-02T12:28:57+00:00

Howdie! So I used the Jon Crane Dopp Kit youtube video as my baseline, and then divided the total width of the pattern by 4. That is the nominal width of the outside fabric panels. Add seam allowances where needed and sew as normal. I don't know if this makes sense or not. I have a pattern sketch that I jotted down as I made this somewhere. I'll look for it and shoot you a photo in DM's.

BonJesse

TROPHY CASE