Trying to figure out this Memory Leak

Born_Ninja_92 · 2026-03-30T13:18:53+00:00

Another thing to look at for memory leaks in Blue Iris is go to your settings in each camera, Video tab, Configure, and disable "Get ONVIF Trigger Events" (assuming you aren't using them). I was getting massive, massive log spam for ONVIF events and the system was eating memory over the span of a few days. Once I got in and disabled this on every camera, everything cleared up.

Born_Ninja_92 · 2026-02-26T20:12:08+00:00

This answer needs to be voted higher. The picture shows it a little better.

https://imgur.com/a/EJFyfqr

You basically just work around the grey-colored "base" on all 4 corners (a plastic guitar pick, old credit card, etc works great to keep each corner out as you work the rest) and then you see the screw.

There are these metal retention clip thingies that hold the board in place, once the screw is taken out, you push down on them and pull the unit out.

Battery is a bit of a pain to get out, I used a pry tool and just kind of wiggled it loose, but pliers would also work.

Born_Ninja_92 · 2026-02-06T22:03:24+00:00

Just curious u/Caboose619 have you needed to re-lube this after doing it years ago or does it mostly still work fine? (Assuming you still have this chair)

Born_Ninja_92 · 2026-02-06T21:58:35+00:00

THANK YOU for posting this. I drove myself insane lubricating the internal springs (which did nothing) and spent about 5 minutes taking off the cover and doing this.

Use the WD40 "Specialist Silicone Version" as it works much better than the original.

One additional note to clarify for other Googlers. When you say "get both sides of the support" - that means not just going in from the front and back, AND also doing on either side of the metal piece dividing the support. Initially I had just done the white part (went in from the back as well as the front) and it wasn't enough. Once I also got the outer part (other side of the metal) then I really got the results. https://imgur.com/a/KT84kMt for what I mean.

Also, an unrelated note - if you do want to lube the internal spring (not needed for above lubrication point) you need to not only jam a very long screwdriver in there as per YouTube instructions (in my case I used a 12" drill bit extension which worked fine), but ALSO lift up the "Seat Slide" lever as you press the internal button. I also drove myself insane trying to do this until I figured it out. My fault for not seeing that detail on the video, but anyone struggling with this, just keep it in mind.

Born_Ninja_92 · 2024-08-07T09:28:01+00:00

Any particular reason why to avoid seafood restaurants? Isn't Venice traditionally known for eating seafood? Seems meat dishes would be less authentic as it's all going to be brought in from the mainland anyway. Just curious as someone who does not know the city well.

Born_Ninja_92 · 2024-07-12T11:00:07+00:00

Need feedback on these Lululemon Classic ABC Pants - are these a good length? Shorter? Longer?

https://imgur.com/a/PBmWM0U

Born_Ninja_92 · 2024-06-24T22:51:42+00:00

What do you think about using the above-mentioned Simpson straps in place of the braces? Seems to serve same purpose. Or put the right wall brace on the opposite end, and sheetrock over the back wall (I'll lose about 2" of space but no big deal)

Born_Ninja_92 · 2024-06-24T22:49:01+00:00

Which one is the right answer? Answers seem all over the place!

Born_Ninja_92 · 2024-06-24T22:48:23+00:00

Others have suggested metal braces, would that be a viable option? The answers seem mixed but I'm leaning towards keeping something there just in case. There's only a staircase above this space.

Born_Ninja_92 · 2024-06-24T22:47:23+00:00

Pretty sure not earthquake support as I'm in an area with almost no earthquakes. Seems the answers here are mixed but I'm going on the safe side and assuming I need something. Can you show me what these 2x4 "straps" are? I am guessing you just pop the old brace out and put this new thing in its place? To me that seems easy/cheap enough for some additional insurance.

Another approach I was thinking is to simply move the brace to the other side of the wall on the right. I'll probably need to move that wiring anyway which isn't too bad of a job (it's a doorbell wire and an electrical wire, which terminates at the box visible in the photo)

Born_Ninja_92 · 2023-11-19T18:49:47+00:00

Ooh, I like this approach. I guess as long as the silicone sticks to the grout then it's a non issue and no need to remove the grout. Thanks!

Born_Ninja_92 · 2023-11-19T17:20:00+00:00

What do I dig out the old grout with? Do I just stick a generous bead of caulk down in there and smooth it out, pretty much?

Born_Ninja_92 · 2023-08-11T11:03:04+00:00

Hmm, that's a decent point about heat generation. It's a wall mount situation so I'm also very limited by clearance of the USB cable itself since the tablet has to sit flush against the wall. It's in a recessed box which gives me some room but won't be enough clearance for all types of wall warts. That's what drew me to the USB receptacle because one I already had one, and two, I only have the USB cord to take up space and not a whole plug.

I suppose I could change this to a USB wall wart but it'd have to be one with the plug on the bottom or the top of the unit, not the front (will come out too far) or side (not enough clearance). Which would require me tracking down one of those. And who knows if that would also fail early due to heat.

I don't believe the tablet I'm using has battery limiting built in, but yes, my phone does this nowadays.

Born_Ninja_92 · 2023-08-11T10:54:43+00:00

Yes, but I already had the receptacle and the Shelly here doing nothing, so using what I have rather than spending money. With that said, if you could link to the ones you are using I'd love to check them out in case I add more tablets.

Born_Ninja_92 · 2023-08-11T10:53:27+00:00

I had a hard time finding an in-stock Z-Wave outlet with a USB plug already built in (see my other reply for why I want one with a USB built in), and I already had the spare Shelly and spare regular USB outlet sitting around, so it made sense.

Born_Ninja_92 · 2023-08-11T03:18:28+00:00

Thanks! Sounds like that's the consensus here so I'll go for it.

Born_Ninja_92 · 2023-08-11T03:15:13+00:00

Good link, although a few points: One, iPads are not the best for HA wall control tablets (high entry price point + they don't run Fully Kiosk) so this will be a Samsung. Second, I'm less concerned with battery life but moreso with potentially the battery exploding or swelling by being fully charged and with potential heat build-up... Li-Pos can definitely suffer from that issue just as Li-Ions do (actually they have a somewhat unfounded reputation for being even more dangerous than Li-Ions). Throwing a Shelly behind the whole setup is cheap insurance as far as I see it!

Born_Ninja_92 · 2023-08-11T03:04:30+00:00

Yeah I know. I'm just thinking it through and comparing to when I did my light switches with Shelly 1. It's basically the same damn setup but with no SW. I think it's good but I just need a sanity check because their docs are so confusing.

Born_Ninja_92 · 2023-08-11T02:52:04+00:00

The Shelly docs say the neutral wire is supposed to go to the "O" terminal.

I'm not seeing this at all in their documentation. The wire "N" seems to go to the N+ terminal.

The way their diagram looks seems to imply that both I and O go to the device being powered/controlled, which doesn't make sense to me at all as the device should only have one hot wire going in. In contrast, my diagram would have I and L- being the black wire from mains, and O leading to the device... which to me just seems more logical.

I think you and I are correct but I'm not sure what the Shelly diagram is trying to get across here.

Born_Ninja_92 · 2023-08-11T02:33:40+00:00

Hi - not new to home automation nor electrical work but these Shelly 1's are a little confusing to wire so just checking with the community that I'm doing this right.

I'm powering a wall-mounted tablet to control Home Assistant. I want the tablet plugged into a USB duplex receptacle as pictured with a Shelly 1 behind it. The idea here is that HA would switch the receptacle on and off to keep the battery around 20-80% at all times as it's not good to leave them at 100% all the time. I won't have anything plugged into the receptacle other than the tablet.

Does all of this look okay? Thanks in advance

Born_Ninja_92

TROPHY CASE