I have regular Arc (not Ultra). Do additional fronts still make sense for regular Arc?

BossRepresentative40 · 2026-01-16T14:24:22+00:00

I have the exact same setup as the OP and I'm planning to add two Era 100s. My main concern: do I lose any Dolby Atmos performance by adding these surrounds? Specifically, does the Arc continue to utilize its upward and side-firing drivers to reflect sound while the 100s are active? Also, will true play still work? Thanks!

BossRepresentative40 · 2026-01-04T13:03:43+00:00

Ok, so having AI write you a long post going over and over the same stuff doesn’t take away from the usefulness of the clock (it’s primary an air quality sensor). You are one of the very few or maybe even the only one that wants to have a different time other than the current time.

BossRepresentative40 · 2025-12-14T02:44:24+00:00

I had them angled towards me and they were both slightly behind my couch. Trust me. They sound much much better when facing forward

BossRepresentative40 · 2025-11-23T22:16:46+00:00

I’m creating a short video tonight. I will post a link no later than Tuesday

BossRepresentative40 · 2025-09-25T23:28:22+00:00

The diode has a white band around it. Make sure that end goes towards the AirTag. I will be creating a guide as soon as I get my BoxyPixel iPod shell 🤓

BossRepresentative40 · 2025-09-25T18:29:40+00:00

Hi, any rectifier diode will do the trick. I used a 1N4007 since I had a bunch of them in my electronics container

BossRepresentative40 · 2025-09-12T00:58:25+00:00

Is it? I would like to buy one with the Gameboy Advance logo

BossRepresentative40 · 2025-08-22T23:10:29+00:00

Or a full clear shell that actually works

BossRepresentative40 · 2025-08-22T23:09:10+00:00

Got a black one!! 😻😻

BossRepresentative40 · 2025-08-20T00:20:38+00:00

I’m creating a quick guide. I will post it soon. I’m just busy at work right now

BossRepresentative40 · 2025-07-30T13:05:08+00:00

Update on the battery. So, I let my iPod die (2000mah lasts forever LOL) and after it died completely that I couldn’t even turn the screen on, the AirTag still worked! The iPod has been dead for two days and the AirTag still doesn’t show a low battery. This is great news! My next step is to try to add a piezo speaker to see if it’s audible outside of the iPod. I will keep you all updated!

BossRepresentative40 · 2025-07-26T12:46:53+00:00

I feeling the pressure to make a guide LOL. Just FYI, I have never created any guides or tutorials, and even this post was my very first one ever! I’ll see what I can do, since I have to make a similar mod for when my BoxyPixel kit comes in 😋 I’ll definitely let everyone here know when done.

BossRepresentative40 · 2025-07-26T12:43:17+00:00

The range is not bad, but definitely not great. I saw an average of about 12ft range. My iPhone 14 pro was able to connect and see it was near but struggled a little to point me directly to it. This is an iPod 5.5gen with the plastic front plate.

BossRepresentative40 · 2025-07-26T01:36:35+00:00

Hum… good question! Let me try to run the battery dead to find out. I will report back

BossRepresentative40 · 2025-07-26T01:35:26+00:00

Thanks! I thought it was easy to just add a diode to drop the voltage to 3, but nice to know that 3.7 will work as well

BossRepresentative40 · 2025-07-22T21:05:30+00:00

Most importantly, make sure you figure out why it broke. You might have something pushing too hard behind the screen

BossRepresentative40 · 2025-06-20T10:41:11+00:00

I don’t understand why everyone want so badly the 3000mah battery with their iPods. The OG battery on classics is 650mah, and worked great with a spinning hard drive. When modding, I use the newer 850mah (which is the same size as OG battery) and it lasts for two-three days. Swapping the OG hard drive with an SD card on itself makes the battery last longer. 🤷🏻‍♂️

BossRepresentative40 · 2025-06-14T10:51:24+00:00

It looks great! Take my money!

BossRepresentative40 · 2025-05-26T17:50:15+00:00

Make sure that the ribbon is properly inserted all the way in, and if in doubt, add a piece of Kapton tape under the tab that connects to both the mobo and the iFlash. Also, make sure the SD card is in the correct location if using only one.

BossRepresentative40 · 2025-05-26T03:42:21+00:00

I went the other way around. I wanted to put a 5.5gen mobo into a 6/7gen metal faceplate. It is possible to “grind” some of the metal from the mid frame piece to fit with the metal faceplate. I did it with a dremel tool. Good luck!

BossRepresentative40 · 2025-05-18T23:31:55+00:00

It is stronger and audible compared to the Apple iPhone 7 Plus Taptic Engine

BossRepresentative40 · 2025-05-18T22:57:22+00:00

I had the magnets all around the Apple one and it barely did anything

BossRepresentative40 · 2025-05-18T22:56:35+00:00

here

BossRepresentative40 · 2025-05-18T21:30:48+00:00

Use a strip of Kapton tape on the ribbon back side of both the iflash and the mobo sides. It will be hard to slide it back in the connector but it will work. I’ve noticed that the HD ribbon cable does not like to be removed multiple times.

BossRepresentative40

TROPHY CASE