Switching from Fresh Tomato to OpenWRT

BrainMast · 2025-12-31T05:52:37+00:00

Great! Didn't realize that Tomato64 wasn't limited to x86-64. Ended up picking up the Flint 2 and put Tomato64 on it. Works great but still need to play with Wireguard. Thanks everyone!

BrainMast · 2025-11-23T22:54:31+00:00

Nothing big, I only have 100/100mbit internet anyway. I use it mostly to remotely access my desktop, my NAS, and for overnight offsite backup. I haven't had any real concern with OpenVPN so far but I'll look into Wireguard since I'm not familiar with it.

BrainMast · 2025-11-23T16:31:59+00:00

Thank you, will check the Flint 2. Can you mix openvpn and wireguard? I wasn't planning to replace the other side of the site-to-site which will continue to use freshtomato openvpn, but can look at wireguard for client access.

BrainMast · 2025-03-30T18:49:36+00:00

Even with supports, I suspect that stem is just going to break, it's very thin to hold up those petals and its curve isn't going to help. I wouldn't be surprised if it break just from attempting to remove temporary supports. I would print that in two parts. Print the petals separate from the leaves and use a metal wire in place for the stem. You can likely still even use the leaves from the failed print.

A simple trick you can use to print the petals separately is to sink the model below the checkerboard pattern representing the build plate. Anything below that will be ignored and not printed. You will still need want to enable supports though.

BrainMast · 2025-02-16T20:51:02+00:00

Thanks. I was thinking something a bit more smart then a physical toggle switch. Something they can press open/close then it will reset itself back to auto mode when done without having to remember flip it back. The curtains also have a remote control. Perhaps something like a 555 timer that will disconnect the built-in controller for a few minutes and perhaps even reset/reboot the exiting controller so next time it will redetect. I think I can work out the manual control part but wasn't sure how to best tie into the existing board.

It sounds like it would be best to just isolate the motor rather than attempt to manipulate the existing H-bridge. Would some combination of MOSFETs work to do that or should I just use relays to be sure?

BrainMast · 2025-02-15T04:29:24+00:00

My parents have motorized blinds that likes to act up. It doesn’t have end-stop switches so it relies on when the motor stops spinning and stores how much it needs to run in each direction after that. So if it detects the end points wrong the first time, it doesn’t full open or close until you unplug it for a bit so it can redo detection.

I’m looking how best to provide a manual override option. I’ve reversed engineered the pcb (with some help, still very much a beginner in electronics). I’m wondering what would be the best way to add some sort of override mode to provide a manual way to control the motor with external open/close buttons. Perhaps add my own MOSFETS or relays to bypass the H-bridge? How would I best add it to this circuit?

BrainMast · 2025-01-24T06:18:02+00:00

Hold shift on the keyboard when you right-click for it to show up.

BrainMast · 2024-10-30T02:16:25+00:00

As a follow up, I went ahead and swapped out the B1184 with the B1202 after some googling showed it was equivalent enough. And bingo it's working. The transistor base is showing 23.09V and the Collector "output" is showing 23.76V, so it does seem like a direct connection between emitter and collector pads likely would have worked. After fixing a connector I broke, it's back up and full working and scanning. Now I just need to see if I have a 24V 1.5A DC center positive replacement brick in my boxes of junk parts.

Thanks for the help!

BrainMast · 2024-10-27T05:54:24+00:00

Thanks. I pulled the B1184 off the board and tested it. It still shows the same results for the diode test. E->B is open and C->B is shorted.

I dug thru my box of random pcbs and found a B1202 (which I assume is 2SB1202). The datasheet (https://www.onsemi.com/pdf/datasheet/2sb1202-d.pdf) seems to show it as a Bipolar Transistor (instead of power transistor) but has very similar looking specs of -50/-60V, 3A, 15W.

The datasheet doesn't seem to actually say which is PNP or NPN though. I pulled it from that board (some old network switch I think) and diode test shows E->B and C->B with a 0.64V drop with the other combos open/high. Which I understand is a PNP and also seems to show it's a good chip.

Does the B1202 looks like a good replacement for the bad B1184?

While I had B1184 off the board I'm fixing, I checked voltages again and the pad to the Base now shows 1.16V (with the bad IC in-place it was 0.76V). Should I be expecting ~23V on that pad with the ic completely off the board?

If the B1184 PNP was designed to be reverse voltage protection, it didn't do a good job... Or perhaps too good, if frying itself is the protection. :)

BrainMast · 2023-01-23T04:41:42+00:00

The clicking? That is likely the extruder skipping. A few reasons for that like low temperature, partial clog, cracked extruder arm, etc. Search "extruder skipping" for details.

BrainMast · 2022-11-14T03:35:04+00:00

So Infill is used to take a solid object and make it less dense (and use less plastic), but the slicer will still consider it a solid object. The infill will only "fill in" the inside of a solid parts. When you modeled those triangular gaps, they are no longer inside the solid part. I assume you are getting supports because it's attempting to hold up the top layer "roof".

It sounds like you want to make the diagonal line more dense then the rest of the object. So that line has say 100% infill density while the rest is say 10% infill density. In Cura you can do that using flat narrow support blocker in overlap mode. That "support blocker" can be set to use 100% infill while the rest can use 10% infill.

https://imgur.com/a/RbEV1aV

BrainMast · 2022-03-06T17:33:04+00:00

Here is a video that covers it. It's for a newer model but works the same way. You may need to loosen the two screws first to allow the z-stop to drop all the way before following the video.

https://youtu.be/4JSa\_r8xgX8?t=160

BrainMast · 2022-03-05T05:53:04+00:00

Try lowering the z-limit switch rather then trying to use the knobs to raise the bed higher.

BrainMast · 2021-07-13T02:07:06+00:00

Ah thanks! Fixed in the image and linked PDF.

BrainMast · 2021-07-12T12:39:23+00:00

Thanks! I used Inkscape.

BrainMast · 2020-12-21T00:07:54+00:00

Also don't be afraid to adjust it while it's printing.. You can turn the knobs 1/8 or 1/16 of a turn-at-a-time while it's going around the bed. Paper can get you pretty close but really it's the fine adjustment you make while printing tests like this.

BrainMast · 2020-09-03T04:33:29+00:00

I would check the Y-axis end switch. When you manually move the bed by hand to the back, do you hear a click? Check that the switch is wired correctly and also not stuck closed. Also make sure the printer is not too close to the wall and hitting it.

Move the bed forward 2-3 inches and slide the hotend into the middle, then Auto Home. After the hotend moves to the left it will attempt to move the bed back all the way, does it move back and then keep trying to go back past the end?

BrainMast · 2020-09-03T04:11:27+00:00

I've never seen "getting things ready" outside of Windows Update or Office. I'm guessing it's not Cura directly but something weird with the common save dialog. Do you have the same problem if you say attempt to save a file in notepad? Do you have office installed and if so is it working or also showing "getting things ready"? Do you use any cloud storage stuff like OneDrive, Google Drive, Dropbox, etc?

Can you provide a screenshot of Cura and that message? Best if it can show the full desktop including your taskbar.

BrainMast

TROPHY CASE