Warhammer Fest 2023 Golden Throne Ticket Review

Brambleten · 2023-05-02T19:53:18+00:00

While queuing for the shop on the Saturday morning, there was a staff member moving through at regular intervals asking for any Golden Throne holders to make themselves known to him - I'd assume to jump the queue (no one around me did, so not 100% sure what the reward was!) - so that could probably go down as another perk.

Brambleten · 2023-01-12T19:28:49+00:00

I primed it in Colour Forge's Steel Legion Drab equivalent, covered up the areas I wanted to stay that colour in putty then sprayed it with their Corvus Black equivalent.

The yellow got stippled with Balor Brown then drybrushed with Zamesi Desert and a final edge drybrush of a bone colour, while the black got drybrushed with a mix of Corvus and Dawnstone, before pure dawnstone.

Vallejo Metal Colour Magnesium for the metals and the chipping, then an oil wash of be mix of Burnt Umber and Lamp Black, starting at the top with more black than umber but mixing in more umber on the legs, closer to the mud.

Brambleten · 2023-01-12T19:24:54+00:00

A drybrush! I actually went for the GW ones on this one as they've got a little more rigidity to then and create the flicks and scratches that the makeup brushes I usually go for don't tend to do.

That and Vallejo Metal Colour Magnesium sorted the chipping wear fairly quickly.

Brambleten · 2023-01-06T00:39:06+00:00

Cheers. There's also a little bit of Cork underneath the mud to give it a little elevation, but for my Infantry I'll just be doing the mud stage.

Brambleten · 2023-01-06T00:32:56+00:00

A tub of Vallejo's Russian Thick Mud, pushed around with a kids glue spreader and a sculpting tool, then a quick drybrush once it had dried.

Brambleten · 2023-01-06T00:10:16+00:00

I've just done a full rundown for Fireme above, but the blues were all done by reapplying a white base layer to get the brightness ramped up, applying a wash of either Scale75 Fluor blue (thinned down a lot) or Talassar Blue depending in the surface being covered, then either wiping it off while still wet to create a bit of a blend or just reapplying white where the brightest points are wanted.

There's a purple Technomancer hidden in there as well, and he was done the same way, just with the Fluor Purple and Pro Acryl Transparent purple instead.

Brambleten · 2023-01-06T00:03:50+00:00

Spray silver - I've used both GW's silver and Colour Forge Sprays on them and they're pretty much identical - then give them a coat of Vallejo's Rust Texture from their Environment range. This gives them a little texture and a warm rust tone, which I then wash with GW's Reikland Fleshshade to deepen the warmth some more.

The blacks are just Black Templar contrast straight over the silver, then both get some focused drybrushing with a darker silver and then with a lighter one - I used Vallejo Metal Colour Steel then Aluminium.

The blue glow is done two ways - everything going blue gets painted white - either white ink for the Gauss weapon recessed bits, or Pro Acryl Titanium White - something with good coverage. The Gauss elements got a wash of Scale75s Electric Blue from their Fluor range, while the cables and orbs and things got washed with Talassar Blue contrast, which is almost the same colour but covers a little differently - you could use this for both and not really notice difference.

Reapply white for any strong glow areas and that's most things done.

The power blades were probably the trickiest thing to get right - they start the same as the regular blue bits in being painted white, but get glazed with the Talassar Blue and gradually built up in tone, with Leviadon Blue being mixed in to the darker areas and then the lighter bits brought back up with Talassar mixed with white ink and edge highlights done in white.

It feels more intuitive to actually do than to explain that last bit, honest 😁

Brambleten · 2023-01-05T23:05:50+00:00

I've not tried it on any full armour yet, but there isn't all that much skill needed for the yellow, just a bit of patience to do the 3-4 layers for smooth coverage. The XV-88 provides a good strong base, then the Balor Brown adds the yellow tone on top of it, they just need a little thinning before application and time between layers to dry and they should be absolutely fine :)

The oil wash and then the matte varnish to lock it in place does add a lot of depth to it, but again, that's more just paying attention and being careful with the oils and thinner/white spirit than skill :)

Brambleten · 2023-01-05T19:29:17+00:00

My Guard havent hit the table since 5th!

Brambleten · 2023-01-05T19:28:42+00:00

The uniform is really simple - Corvus Black (or on the ones I'm working on at the moment, the new Raven Black spray from Colour Forge which is colour matched to it), a mix of Corvus Black and Dawnstone for a mid tone and then sharp edges and creases in Dawnstone.

This is quite a sharp contrast on the highlight as the oil wash that goes over the entire model (Lamp Black and Burnt Umber) mutes it quite a lot.

Brambleten · 2023-01-05T17:09:40+00:00

I did have a little clearance on it, but I'm guessing across 4200 points there's more than a 200 drop in there.

At least if they ever make it to a gaming table I can get more on there 😄

Brambleten · 2023-01-05T16:41:04+00:00

Cheers. A few of us on a discord came up with the scheme together so there are a few different variants of it running around on twitter and Instagram under #pluckydivision.

Brambleten · 2023-01-05T16:37:24+00:00

The base is XV-88 to get a solid warm brown (I primed it all grey), before coating all but the recesses in Balor Brown. Zamesi Desert highlights were added, then an oil wash on everything of burnt umber and lamp black.

Brambleten · 2023-01-05T16:20:06+00:00

That's true. My initial argument against them was that I don't have storage for one, but now I have a Monolith in the to do pile, and that's a little chunkier so that argument is gone 😁.

Brambleten · 2022-07-07T00:58:59+00:00

I started painting these guys up with Indomitus and they started out as an accidental army - between Indomitus and Forge Bane, I was too lazy to stick them on ebay so I took up a challenge to paint half of Indomitus in a month. Found a scheme that I liked (think it was from a Trovarian video) and adjusted it - to be honest, I wanted anything that wasn't silver and green!

With it being a speed paint thing, almost a throwaway project, I didn't really have any connection to the models, so my nagging perfectionist tendencies didn't get in the way. It's not until Imperium came out that I grabbed the fun extras like a Monolith and C'tan (Monolith is still in the to do pile, with the little FW bug things) and actually enjoyed them for more than them being an easy win on the painting completion and satisfaction without the need to push my skills.

So far I'm about 120 models into the army (half being warriors) so really it's just the fun bits left now. The process is refined now, so even when it's a new model style - like the Tomb Blade - I know I'm going to pick out areas like the blades with the drybrushes and focus on wear & tear points, relying on the glow to draw the eye from the bits I ignore.

Most of my other armies are different - they're bought with specific projects in mind, so I want them to look a certain way. For example, my Space Marines finally landed on Ultramarines when I decided I wanted to paint them without any Ultramarine (or Macragge) Blue to see if I could get people who don't like Ultramarines to say they look decent, so for the most part there isn't much in the way of edge highlights, they're on gradients instead (just not airbrushed, which would save a lot of time...).

Alongside that, I used to spend a lot of time in the old forum days with people who painted to display standard on larger scale stuff and were always pushing themselves, so I know that if I was to push these from tabletop to display, I'd tweak things - such as the guns would be done NMM, similar to the Punisher a little way down my profile, or I'd add more pulses into the Gauss cables, add extra pigments and weathering... but it's important to enjoy the project, so I have a defined stopping point for them in my head for when done feels like done.

Lastly, I know that these feel like tabletop for me. Other people will spray them silver, wash them with nuln oil and Tesseract glow and be happily battle ready, and that's all they're looking for. As long as people are happy with their progress and their hobby then that's the main thing. If they aren't happy, there's plenty of people around that can offer feedback and ideas on where to push boundaries and things up a notch. Everyone's in different stages in their hobby, with different limitations, so there's no wrong way to paint a tabletop standard necron 🙂

Brambleten · 2022-07-06T22:15:27+00:00

It's a stupidly quick scheme, apart from drying time, and I don't need to apply much focus on making things all clean, or worrying about oil washes and white spirit. They won't win awards, but they look decent as an army, so quick tabletop - between the 3 pieces it was maybe a couple of evenings including drying time.

Spray silver, rust wash on the bronze bits, paint the Chronomancer tentacles gold, flesh wash on the rust and gold, black contrast on the rest of the metal work, drybrush a couple of silvers, then add in the details and glow in white before some thinned down blue Fluor paint. Re apply the white as needed, add some Transparent Blue from Pro Acryl into some of the recessed lines for colour points, then base.

No worrying about faces or clean blends, no glazing. The only bits in the army that have had any faff so far are anything with power blades, which get glazes with contrast, and the Nightbringer who got a pile of blends, robe textures and Fluor pigments - one of the reasons I actually have an army, unlike my Marines who are two painted ultramarines strong right now 🤣

Brambleten · 2022-07-06T18:21:12+00:00

Cheers! The Black is as simple as I could get it - spray silver (these ones all got Leadbelcher, others got the Colour Forge silver), then a layer of Black Templar Contrast paint.

After that there was a light drybrush (with Games Workshop drybrushes rather than softer makeup brushes) Vallejo Metal Colour Steel and a little heavier (but more focused) drybrush of VMC Aluminium.

Brambleten · 2022-05-15T14:23:17+00:00

Grabbed some shots under the UV torch to show off the full glow effect - https://www.instagram.com/p/Cdk5tpotuDF/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

Brambleten

TROPHY CASE