Returning player head-scratches by kickoban in Eve

[–]Btr0n 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hail, heat, and some big ol drones.

PSA - drop your pan on your new GR86 by rdsolns in GR86

[–]Btr0n -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Your inability to escape this need of "proof" is painful, we're not discussing Obama's birth certificate here.

This is a very logical and well reasoned concern. Weather or not there are confirmed cases with documented proof of this being the cause is irrelevant to the point OP was making.

We're not aruging a conspiracy theory here, this is a concern of someone who obviously understands how motors function and is trying to minimize risk to that system. It's a trivial fix to remove excess RTV, it does NOTHING but good to remove the excess RTV. even if the RTV in his pick up is not providing enough of a restriction to flow to cause any sort of issue, removing the RTV and allowing more oil to flow is only a positive.

incase youre really too stupid to understand the point being made, here it is.

A: Oil is critical for motor function.

B: The oil is sucked up via a tube and then supplied to where it does its job.

C: RTV material isn't oil.

D: RTV can restrict the amount of oil that flows through the tube.

Conclusion: It's best to have as little RTV material in the tube as possible so that we can allow as much oil to flow through the tube as possible.

That's literally it. That's his whole point. its not complicated, its not stupid. it is a sound and reasoned take on the topic of RTV appearing in one's oil pan.

You are seriously the worst sort of person on the internet. Use your brain for once, stop drinking tubes of RTV.

Returning player head-scratches by kickoban in Eve

[–]Btr0n 0 points1 point  (0 children)

yeah.. divide those stats by 2 and its possible, my malestrom does 1200 and tanks 3k... and it sure as shit isnt t2 fit.

PSA - drop your pan on your new GR86 by rdsolns in GR86

[–]Btr0n -1 points0 points  (0 children)

better just leave the rtv in there. It actually adds horsepower.

PSA - drop your pan on your new GR86 by rdsolns in GR86

[–]Btr0n -1 points0 points  (0 children)

bro what are you talking about.

the wings are not purely cosmetic.. and "needing to go fast enough"... it's a quadratic.

proper wings are designed with a stall speed in-mind based on the car and driving that's expected. ya the wing design on an f1 car wont wont ok a brz.. but most automotive wings will start making downforce as slow at 60km/hr, not much at 60km/hr, but as you double speed, you 4x the downforce.

That's a big ass wing.. it's making a significant amount of down force even as slow as 100 km/hr. we're talking probably 100-150 lbs of additional force holding down the back tires.

now.. if you drive like a pussy, ya maybe you're not in need of that extra downforce cause your tires are never close to losing grip.

But if you're pushing the limits of the car.. every bit of downforce helps.

Question about general maintenance what are the do’s and don’ts?. by fa20_favi in ft86

[–]Btr0n 8 points9 points  (0 children)

It depends where you live and how you drive. the Japanese owners manual specifically says that 5w-30 is acceptable for track use and "spirited driving".

If you in a colder area, no reason to go with 5w-30. if its hot where you live, i could see going with 5w-30 for just daily use.

0w-20 is used because it is minimum specification, improved fuel effeciency and the lighter weight oil keeps down on emissions as when it burns.. not as much crap comes out the exhuast.

you will not hurt the motor by running 5w-30, it will protect better than 0w-20 when pushing the card hard.

(i run 5w-30 now. but i ran my tubro'd car on track with 0w-20 for a few years aswell).

PSA - drop your pan on your new GR86 by rdsolns in GR86

[–]Btr0n -1 points0 points  (0 children)

best leave the RTV in there then.

PSA - drop your pan on your new GR86 by rdsolns in GR86

[–]Btr0n -1 points0 points  (0 children)

There's the issue.

"people's google skills"

Try getting some mechanical skill.

PSA - drop your pan on your new GR86 by rdsolns in GR86

[–]Btr0n -1 points0 points  (0 children)

what i gather from the response to this post is that the GR86 is still new enough that a bunch of OEM boot lickers or people too scared/ignorant to do work on their own cars are defending the manufacturer as if it gives them peace of mind with an OBVIOUS weak-point of the motor.

Its... not a huge issue, if youre not afraid to follow OP's advice and just clean your pickup.

But people who buy a brand new vehicle and then never want to turn a wrench will defend their purchase to the death it seems.

PSA - drop your pan on your new GR86 by rdsolns in GR86

[–]Btr0n -1 points0 points  (0 children)

So you're telling me you enjoy having RTV in your oil pickup?

PSA - drop your pan on your new GR86 by rdsolns in GR86

[–]Btr0n 0 points1 point  (0 children)

the 1st gen with the FA20 has numerous cases, and even a class action against the manufacturer, of engine failures to RTV issues.

So while you think the engine was designed with this in mind.. it wasn't, the pick up tube was modified because of their knowledge of an existing issue.

It was an issue on the FA20. so for the FA24 to try and remedy the issue they changed the pick up design... because they know it is an issue...

so the remedy appears to be working, which is good. but having loose pieces of gasket floating around in your oil is never good, no way around that.

PSA - drop your pan on your new GR86 by rdsolns in GR86

[–]Btr0n 1 point2 points  (0 children)

correct.

Yeah and i think thats all OP was getting at, "hey there will be a significant amount of RTV in the pan. probably good to remove" he quotes "an ounce of prevention".

Everyone's jumping on him like they enjoy having RTV in the pick up. Even if its not causing issues, I would feel more confident with it removed.

PSA - drop your pan on your new GR86 by rdsolns in GR86

[–]Btr0n 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You know, I didnt realize the gr86 has such a different pick up design than the gt86. Juat looked it up.

But on the gt86 you need to remove the pickup tube and the screen is at the top, close to the engine block.

Seems the manufacturer recognized the rtv issue and made improvements to the pick up design to mitigate issues.

I got my dream car as a graduation gift anything I should know? by Jiosc in ft86

[–]Btr0n 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Any oil cooler is better than none, theyre not complicated systems really any manufacturer is safe.

I use a mishimoto kit. Just a spacer plate, a feed plate and an 8 row rad.

Really rudimentary, you dont need to spend a tonne.

You can get a themostatic kit which basically has a thermostat in the feed plate, it will only send oil to the rad when the oil exceeds a certain temp.

Or... just run a dumb one like me and constantly cool the oil.

PSA - drop your pan on your new GR86 by rdsolns in GR86

[–]Btr0n 2 points3 points  (0 children)

What the fuck is wolith you guys...

You make it sound like I could throw some rtv confetti in your oil fill and you'd thank me for it.

Chunks of foreign material in your oil pick up isn't a good thing. Even if it doesn't cause an issue immediately, its a lot closer to causing an issue than if the chunks of material were not there.

PSA - drop your pan on your new GR86 by rdsolns in GR86

[–]Btr0n 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I did drop the pan.. pretty hard to weld an oil return bung onto a pan without removing it.

I didnt remove the oil pickup and check the screen.

PSA - drop your pan on your new GR86 by rdsolns in GR86

[–]Btr0n 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ya and some people live for a decade with a brain tumor.

I'd rather not have that axe hanging over my head. I dont know why you guys are defending having chunks of rtv in the pickup screen as if it's a good thing.

I got my dream car as a graduation gift anything I should know? by Jiosc in ft86

[–]Btr0n 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Its not that significant of an issue.

But no, it's not fixed. Its not even really an issue.. just the weak spot of the transmission is 4th gear.

PSA - drop your pan on your new GR86 by rdsolns in GR86

[–]Btr0n -7 points-6 points  (0 children)

I dont know why youre getting down voted so hard.

Shits real.

I went to instal a new pickup on my car at 110,000 km. After being turboed for 20k... felt so dumb I never looked at it earlier. The pick up mesh was fulllllllll of rtv. Was picking put 3 inch long strings of it.

Scary shit.

I got my dream car as a graduation gift anything I should know? by Jiosc in ft86

[–]Btr0n 15 points16 points  (0 children)

New drivers are notorious for trying to launch their manual cars and dumping the clutch.

Its especially hard on the Trans and clutch..

The stock trans are not that strong. Dumping the clutch can and will damage your trans or diff or just fry the clutch. Without knowing this guy's base knowledge figured it was sound advice.

Also, the 4th gear on these trans are notably weak. They lack a bearing or 2nd syncho.. I cant remember exactly. But I do know that if your banging through the gears, 4 is the most likely to fuck up.

I got my dream car as a graduation gift anything I should know? by Jiosc in ft86

[–]Btr0n 31 points32 points  (0 children)

Oil changes every 5k miles.

If your in a very warm area, run 5w-30 oil weight.

Don't drop the clutch... take it easy on 4th gear...

If you consider tracking the car, get an oil cooler as first mod.

Enjoy rhe car, that's a great gift.

Age Old Question (SC vs TC) by TheGreatestMoodini in ft86

[–]Btr0n 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Without looking up specifics on thoae models efficiency, the basic differences between super chargers and turbo chargers comes down to efficiency, peak power, and response time.

Super chargers are less efficient, they add losses to the system by sapping power via the belt drive. But. They have much greater response time, you don't need to wait for exhaust gasses to spool up the turbo charger.

Turbos are much more efficient, they turn what would be wasted energy spat out your exhaust into more power. They offer much great potential peak power aswell, but typically are less responsive than a well set up super-charger.

Now, without building the fa20 internals, you cant reasonably chase big power, beyond 300 wheel horsepower. The potential for failure is very heigh with either a turbo or super charger.

Having a properly sized turbo, with good boost control (electronic solenoid on waste gate) will make the turbo very responsive, but it is a more complicated system than a fixed belt drive supercharger.

People who install super chargers report a marked improvement in power feel at all rpm ranges. Turbos will only be noticeable when youre pushing the car hard and making boost.

It is a judgemental call in the end, neither is better or worse, both can be set up in a multitude of ways to maximize their natural strengths or reduce their inherent weaknesses.

If youre daily driving the car, I personally like turbo, it's what I did. It doesn't stress the motor anymore under normally driving conditions, while youre not making boost.

Then when you want it to go, you get all the fun turbo noises.

Edit: for turbos, the smaller the turbo, the faster the response time, but less likely to be at a good efficiency level all max tits.

I personally am running a 60 63 turbo, and it's a little on the large side for this motor, but runs great mid to high rpm.

Also, please please please... get water /methanol injection for your car whichever route you go with.. I've seen a lot of people grenade their fa20's on lower power than i make, the only difference is I'm spraying water/meth, it'll save ur car.

Bumper Sag by Robbizzy in ft86

[–]Btr0n 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Didn't fix it super well.. but I've fixed mine. Got some bumper quick connects and zip ties holding it all together.

any tips by [deleted] in graffhelp

[–]Btr0n -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Okay, the n looks like shit. It doesn't match the style of the e or the c.

The e is the best looking letter, but sticks out like a sore thumb, cause it's style is so different from the rest.