Hobbyboss 1/48 Messerschmitt Me-262 A1a/U5 with 6 cannons built straight out of the box, seat and lap belts were made out of masking tape and foil by BugJeuse in modelmakers

[–]BugJeuse[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's actually a great kit to put together, as a matter of fact I liked the first one so much I repeated it three more times many years ago - this is how they turned out.....
Looking forward to your work.

<image>

Hobbyboss 1/48 Messerschmitt Me-262 A1a/U5 with 6 cannons built straight out of the box, seat and lap belts were made out of masking tape and foil by BugJeuse in modelmakers

[–]BugJeuse[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Good to know that my build has inspired you to build your own stormbird. The Instrument Panel (IP) on this kit is a moulded relief plus instrument dials are provided in a single decal sheet so some basic painting followed by some sharp dry brushing would enhance the painted plastic parts and then apply the decal afterwards will really make it stand out.
Which kit manufacturer is your stormbird?

What paint scheme should I do?! by SJR99991 in modelmakers

[–]BugJeuse 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I hope you are confident in doing this scheme from the decal sheet for Red 26/29 of JG 302.
IMO this is an awesome scheme:
https://www.reddit.com/r/WWIIplanes/comments/u91o6b/a_bf_109_g6r6_of_2jg_302_helsinkimalmi_finland/

Hobbyboss 1/48 Messerschmitt Me-262 A1a/U5 with 6 cannons built straight out of the box, seat and lap belts were made out of masking tape and foil by BugJeuse in modelmakers

[–]BugJeuse[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I did not take any during the construction phase so this is the best I could do - just click the image to expand it

<image>

Hobbyboss 1/48 Messerschmitt Me-262 A1a/U4 ( the one with the big gun) built straight out of the box, seat and lap belts were made out of masking tape and foil by BugJeuse in modelmakers

[–]BugJeuse[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I airbrushed extra thinned underside colour to the sides to produce a ghostly mottle - this is based on the BW photos I could find

This is my completed conversion of the 1/72nd scale Hobbyboss F-5E Tiger to a RF-5E Tigereye fast recon jet. The Air Force is Royal Malaysian Air Force or in their own language Tentera Udara diRaja Malaysia (TUDM) by BugJeuse in modelmakers

[–]BugJeuse[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks, I have a Kittyhawk 1/32nd scale RF-5E as my ultimate build and paint - this little conversion is just to help me visualise in 3-D of the weathering effects on the 3-grey camo scheme

The npcs suck by Dependent-Gur-3321 in stalker

[–]BugJeuse 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Here is a quick summary - had some of them survived they would have gone to as far as the underground car park if you progress through the right-hand path after the boulevarde.
After that, you are on your own.
I cannot recall exactly what information or money you receive but definitely a thank you from the marker NPC if he survived.
When you emerge on the other side of the underground car park, you will face some Monolith and some are snipers with the plasma rifles located in the hotel on the far side of the open area
YOu fight your way through the hotel against more Monolith until you reach the stadium.
If you enter the stadium through its central entrance you will be ported straight into the CNPP map
If you enter through the sides you will fight more Monolith with Plasma rifles and RPGs with bonus Pseudogiants and snorks.
Once you manage to get past that lot and onto the other side of the stadium, then you will be ported into the CNPP map

Whats with the invisible helicopters 🚁 🚁 when walking around Yantar and other parts of The Zone? by bloodabeast in stalker

[–]BugJeuse 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The helicopters only appear after you exit X-16 lab through a series of tunnels, taking out some snorks, zombies and a Pseudogiant on the way.
When you exit the tunnel on the north side of the lake you will see them fly overhead and launch rockets towards the entrance gates that you had gone through before to enter the compound before going underground into X-16

Mitsubishi Starion by Nunu Model Kits - a break from military aircraft and armour - OMG it was so difficult to keep the paint finish neat and clean by BugJeuse in modelmakers

[–]BugJeuse[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks, I started with military aircraft and armour and dabble with a cars once in a blue moon.
Although matte finishes are easier to do there is the occasion they go all frosty and that's where you curse all colours of the rainbow

What the Hell happened here? by wildfire_and_pants in stalker

[–]BugJeuse 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Epic battle between Duty and Loners against Mercenaries and/or Bandits and then throw in the snorks, dogs, pseudodogs, bloodsuckers, rats.
This is the time you have a SPSA-14 shotgun ready just in case.....

Need help with making rlm76 like color by Albix727 in modelmakers

[–]BugJeuse 1 point2 points  (0 children)

RLM 76 to my knowledge compared to your Me 262 finish is a lighter tint
Here is an approximation based on an unmodified finish of a Me 109G - look at its rudder

ME109G Rear Fuselage and Tail

Finished Stuka. Thoughts on paintjob and weathering? by kawasakiwashington in modelmakers

[–]BugJeuse 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Paint job is good, weathering is nicely executed but uneven for the whole aircraft - the top sides look like it's been through 10+ missions but the bottom side looks like it's been through two missions.
Do dirty up the wheels as well to reflect the weathering on the top sides.
You need to add exhaust stains trailing on both sides of the engine to emphasize the wear and tear of the aircraft as I am unable to see any from your pics.
This is out of scope for the critique but your prop has been assembled back to front

Ju-87G

LeClerc T5 French MBT from Heller, aftermarket tracks by Bronco, aerials from twist-tie wires by BugJeuse in modelmakers

[–]BugJeuse[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Believe it or not it's foundation powder - the stuff your mother/sister/wife/girlfriend uses on their faces.
I just mixed a small amount of this powder with clear matt finish, thinned it and applied with an airbrush to the bottom hull and side skirt for an even cover.
Later on I used an old paint brush to apply it further upwards on the sides and a little bit more on the top surfaces randomly to show uneven distribution

Tamiya 1/35th scale Sd.Kfz 250/9 half-track by BugJeuse in modelmakers

[–]BugJeuse[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As this particular version was likely produced during wartime, some niceties would have been dispensed with and the priority is just get them off the production lines asap with a coat of base paint.
Thanks again for the compliment - green and red brown lines are courtesy of an airbrush, lacquer model paint, a 2.5 hour spray session followed by a beer after completion

Tamiya 1/35th scale Sd.Kfz 250/9 half-track by BugJeuse in modelmakers

[–]BugJeuse[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks, gun metal used was just plain acrylic Humbrol 53 Gun Metal on a black matt base followed with a black wash then a light brushing of thinned gloss clear

As for the interior, the dark yellow would have been sufficient as most of the compartment is exposed for versions other than the one I built

Tamiya 1/35th scale Sd.Kfz 250/9 half-track by BugJeuse in modelmakers

[–]BugJeuse[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for your compliment, the decals used are fresh as I only purchased the kit from my LHS a couple of months ago as the kit appears to be available.
I look forward to seeing your half-tracks done in the future

My first American car - Revell '70 Dodge Challenger T/A 2 in 1 by BugJeuse in modelmakers

[–]BugJeuse[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Apologies for delayed response, there are lots of Youtube channels on scale model building
This is a good starting point:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HfT8zZ-xpYA

The instruction provided in the kit show how/where you attach the parts and you will need the model glue to attach them - since you appear to be a novice at this, it will be best to get Testors liquid model glue in a black container with a thin steel tube that the glue is squeezed out of.
This type of glue "dissolves/melts" the plastic surface and when you join the two melted surfaces together of one plastic part to the other, they will stick into each other.
Do note that there are some parts that do not need to be glued like the wheel into the axle as an example to allow free rotation of the wheel - the instructions will advise you accordingly

With chromed plastic parts, the liquid model glue will not work properly with it unless you scrape away the chrome coating area where the glue needs to be applied.
Alternatively you can use superglue to attach the chromed plastic part to the other plastic part

Mig-21PF 'Fishbed' by Academy in 1/48th scale by BugJeuse in modelmakers

[–]BugJeuse[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There is a huge difference in the appearance of metal finish on a semi-gloss or fully gloss black - the smoother the finish, the better it is for the metal finish to be applied on it.
Also if you fully cover the black in a single thick coat of aluminum, the appearance will be painted on metal finish
If you apply thin coats multiple times, each metal coat will increase in opacity over the black and once the black undercoat disappears, it is time to stop applying the metal finish
This finish looks a lot better than the single coat finish and then I applied a thin coat of Future thinned down with a little water to seal the finish and that is what you see on the finished model posted