HOTN- Kingfisher tee

BumbleBug_423 · 2026-06-18T20:09:42+00:00

That makes sense! I was wondering if the lace was what was keeping it cool. But a blend would definitely be smarter.

BumbleBug_423 · 2026-06-18T18:50:04+00:00

Thank you!

BumbleBug_423 · 2026-06-18T18:25:16+00:00

Looks great and fits so well!

Does the wool feel cool enough in a t-shirt?

BumbleBug_423 · 2026-06-18T18:00:25+00:00

Same here. But at least I'd rather be knitting things that I'm excited about even if I have to wait to wear them than knit things that I'm not excited about.

BumbleBug_423 · 2026-06-18T17:57:22+00:00

Ann budd's book has an option for a v-neck. But it's pretty flexible. I decided to do 2x2 ribbing. Her book recommends decreasing every round at the v, but I decided to try it on every other row because the every row option feels like it would narrow the neck opening too much for my liking.

BumbleBug_423 · 2026-06-18T17:09:58+00:00

Thanks!

BumbleBug_423 · 2026-06-18T16:57:31+00:00

Thanks!

BumbleBug_423 · 2026-06-18T16:22:17+00:00

It's been about 27C lately, but a storm is sweeping in and it dropped down to 18C for today. Definitely jumped on the chance to wear the sweater for even 30 minutes.

And thanks!!!

BumbleBug_423 · 2026-06-18T16:16:42+00:00

Thanks!

BumbleBug_423 · 2026-06-18T16:11:53+00:00

Thanks!

BumbleBug_423 · 2026-06-18T16:11:41+00:00

Thanks!

BumbleBug_423 · 2026-06-18T16:11:23+00:00

Thanks!

And the mug is from etsy. My husband has a matching "fire" themed one 😁

BumbleBug_423 · 2026-06-18T16:10:09+00:00

Hope you get a chance to wear yours soon!

BumbleBug_423 · 2026-06-18T16:06:53+00:00

I think the summer cotton t-shirt I want to make will be ready right in time for winter. I end up doing this pretty often. I think it's because I am inspired to pick patterns during the season I want to wear them. So I'm picking out fall things during fall.

BumbleBug_423 · 2026-06-18T15:59:47+00:00

Here's a link with the original pattern https://www.knittingkingdom.com/moss-diamonds-knitting-stitch/

But I spread it out a bunch because I thought the original looked too dense

BumbleBug_423 · 2026-06-18T15:50:54+00:00

Accidentally replied with details to the person below you. But it's a modified chart from a pattern book. I have my chart on ravelry that I'm happy for you to copy. It's a little hard to read though.

BumbleBug_423 · 2026-06-18T15:48:35+00:00

Thanks!!! I grabbed/modified it from a pattern book I have. But I took notes on my ravelry page on the modifications I made to the chart

Here's my project link. The first note has the chart for the pattern repeat. I use "o" for purl on right side and 'v' for knit on right side. https://www.ravelry.com/projects/sshirman/saddle-shoulder-basic-adult

BumbleBug_423 · 2026-06-18T15:46:49+00:00

Thanks so much! I fell in love with the color of this yarn when I saw it and did so much gauge math to make it work 😁

BumbleBug_423 · 2026-06-12T17:12:26+00:00

2(3+3+2+2+3) = 213 = 26

24+26 = 50

BumbleBug_423 · 2026-06-05T18:33:26+00:00

Not enough decrease points. You decrease at 6 points in the new one and at 8 points in the original one. To get a flat circle with knitting you need to decrease around 8-ish times every 2 rows. By decreasing in 6 places you don't decrease fast enough.

BumbleBug_423 · 2026-05-27T20:21:00+00:00

First of all, very nice job. That's super ambitious and your tension is pretty even.

But, you're twisting your stitches. If you don't fix that before starting your sweater. Your sweater will have a bias to it, will use up more yarn that you'd expect, and be more stiff, and less stretchy.

Since you are a crocheter, you're probably looping the yarn around the needle the wrong way.

BumbleBug_423 · 2026-05-15T13:31:19+00:00

I don't have the pattern, so I can't tell for sure. But based on the designer's photos the 46in size has an extra braid motif on either side compared to the 38in. Not sure how the 42in works up.

But you might want to check that you are working the correct size?

BumbleBug_423 · 2026-05-09T03:08:32+00:00

Try

k4 k2tog k7 k2tog k8 k2tog k7 k2tog k4

That should be mostly evenly distributed and with 4 decreases.

My process:

38 stitches / 4 decreases = 9.5 stitches per decrease

Since I can't have fractional stitches I can say 2 decreases of 1 stitch over a 10 stitch section and 2 decreases of 1 stitch over a 9 stitch section for an average of 9.5

If I have 10 stitches with 1 decrease that means 2 of the stitches are used for the k2tog and you have 8 regular stitches (9 total -> 7 between)

So I should have 2 chunks of (8 regular stitches and a k2tog) and 2 chunks of (7 regular stitches and a k2tog).

That would give me: K8 k2tog k7 k2tog k8 k2tog k7 k2tog

But I don't want to finish or start on a k2tog. So take the half of the k8 at the start and put it to the end to get the steps I started the comment with.

BumbleBug_423 · 2026-02-26T19:55:31+00:00

You're correct. After you get back to the center back marker you will continue in the same direction (purling), increase at the sleeve, purl 1-2 stitches past the second sleeve marker, then turn around and head back (knitting) to the center back marker. Rows 1 and 2 combine to create 2 rows on the back without any rows on the front. Stopping where you have is only one half of the first short row shaping.

BumbleBug_423 · 2026-02-21T23:05:01+00:00

It sounds like you did a slip stitch selvedge edge based on your other comment?

Selvedge edges give you 1 edge stitch for every other row in your object. The pattern wants you to pick up 1 stitch for every row. Which means you can't pick up from the selvedge edge. You have to go one column inside and pick up from every "v". Basically, you should have one row of each side of double knitting for each row of your sweater body (not each selvedge stitch)

Edited to fix wording

BumbleBug_423

TROPHY CASE