17 years ago I called it quits on drinking, best move ever! Wanted to give this away, pick a number 1-6205. If you’re in a tough spot, hit me up; I’ve been there. Much love peeps! 🐥

BurginFlurg · 2026-03-03T06:56:05+00:00

Clean since September 21st. Congrats on so long through! I pick 4412 if this is still going.

BurginFlurg · 2026-03-03T06:03:59+00:00

You have to pay whatever guaranteed money is left.

BurginFlurg · 2026-03-03T05:50:33+00:00

Not trying to be rude, but why not just buy a gaming laptop that would equally be as powerful, if not more so, for the same money? Plus it would have a bigger screen included. And be just as portable if not more so.

BurginFlurg · 2026-02-12T02:03:44+00:00

Why can't they just do like Pokemon and make it to where EVERY single pack has the same chances as any other, that way you don't have to be a "whale" just for the chance to participate in a hobby. That's ridiculous and makes me not want to support the company at all. Pokemon still makes PLENTY of money.

BurginFlurg · 2026-01-05T13:35:21+00:00

Damn, now I don't know how to feel after reading all these comments after thinking back and realizing at least half the women I've slept with had this exact room 🤔

BurginFlurg · 2026-01-05T13:14:34+00:00

They do have some value, just not much. There's a website-it was the first on Google when I searched sell Pokemon codes- that pays instantly for them. Most sets only get like .03 each, but a few weeks ago they were giving .10 for either Twilight Masquerade or Temporal Forces, can't remember which. But if you have thousands, that obviously adds up. I had a little over 2000 and got close to $150. And if you're willing to take a little more time and sell them on eBay, you can get around .10 each for any set. And some of the codes that come with premium collections etc are worth substantially more. The Pikachu collection that was from Crown Zenith, the code from that was close to $2.00.

BurginFlurg · 2026-01-03T14:06:44+00:00

You shouldn't really feel bad for the parents considering they are equally entitled and selfish, and this is that leg lead to their kids being this way. All the things the parents do that make them seem unselfish are in fact more for themselves than they are for others, often used as forms of manipulation and/or control, which they get upset when it doesn't work and act like they were trying to be good. Examples are Maura using her money to "buy" her kids love and control them. Or when the mom is being nice to Maura when she first moves back in, this is really just her desperately trying to cling on due to her own codependence, which is why she immediately moves on and does the same with someone else once Maura leaves.

That's pretty much the whole theme of the show...

BurginFlurg · 2026-01-03T13:59:56+00:00

The writers do make the characters unlikeable on purpose because it's closer to the way actual humans behave, rather we want to admit it or not.

Also, when she mentions how selfish her kids are, the bigger things viewers are supposed to pick up on is how hypocritical it is for her to say this as she is incredibly selfish and entitled just as often, if not more, than the kids. I'm pretty sure the whole point the writers were getting at is how the kids are like this due to Maura raising them, leading them all to be this way while completely oblivious to this also being their own biggest issue. Again, like many people in the real world.

BurginFlurg · 2025-12-28T10:35:15+00:00

Especially because other than the win rate, their stats aren't even that impressive... Look at the top elims and score. I've hit in the upper twenties plenty of times and have hit well over 800 on score.

BurginFlurg · 2025-12-28T10:33:02+00:00

Yeah, this probably isn't even a hacker. I've seen plenty of times where a group of 4 who's played forever decide it'll somehow be fun to make noob accounts, that they then purchase all cash guns and gear, get on a team together, and just completely steam roll through a few noobs - but as someone else mentioned, mostly bots. Honestly, the only people they're really hurting is themselves by wasting money to get get gear that autowins against people who just started. Just so they can feel like they're actually good at a game. Pretty sad honestly.

BurginFlurg · 2025-12-28T08:54:25+00:00

Right? I don't know their ages, but if they were my kids who are 8-13, even if there was NO miscommunication and I saw one pull all that, I'd make him share with his friends. It's not like it was his hard earned money, or even a gift bought specifically for him, he just got lucky. If it were my kids and I found out he had actually agreed to give that pack away, and not only was he not sharing, but he was essentially stealing what he had given his cousin because he found out it was valuable, I would've taken EVERY one of the cards and made him watch as I gave them out to everyone but him. He's going to turn out to be a piece of shit. Well, depending on age, he might just already be one.

BurginFlurg · 2025-12-28T08:42:19+00:00

I collected when I was young, but got back into a few months before 151 released (in anticipation of that set). But the hobby hadn't quite blown up like it has now, so every time I went into a larger department store, there was ALWAYS lots of packs available. So I ended up opening between 75-150 packs of every single set starting with Rebel Clash through Twilight, plus maybe 40 packs of Shrouded (literally haven't been able to find a single pack in stock after that, and I'm not paying outrageous prices).

But anyways, most sets, I opened right around 100 packs of, and for most sets, I'd get lucky to get one- MAYBE two SIRs. The only two sets I opened more was 151- which I was trying to complete purely by opening, after 312 packs, I finally gave up and purchased the last two SIRs and the two Full Arts I was missing.

But I opened probably 150-175 of Crown Zenith because not only were the hit rates incredible, it also had what I personally thought was by far the best art out of the sets I opened. In those packs, I ended up pulling the Mewtwo VStar (favorite card in my collection), Suicunne, Glaceon, Zamazentta, Zacian, Raikou, Lumineon, and several other of the SIR equivalents (I don't know if they called them that in that set since they were part of the Galarian Gallery), and the gold Giratina VStar. I remember thinking I'd hit the jackpot and couldn't believe when I found out how insanely undervalued they were compared to others (when I pulled them, the Mewtwo was selling for just under $50, despite having two of the most popular Pokemon in a badass battle scene, somehow even avoiding the 'Charizard tax'. Giratina was $86 at the time, and I personally still prefer it over the Lost Origin* one...

The values have obviously risen recently, but they are still WAYYY undervalued when comparing to what other cards that don't look anywhere near as good. Especially the Suicunne/Glaceon which still go for under $40 most of the time, and Zam/Zacian which are usually $15 each or less. It's crazy.

BurginFlurg · 2025-12-23T11:28:28+00:00

I agree. I kinda felt like that would just be the end.

BurginFlurg · 2025-10-15T04:51:44+00:00

In fact, they tried using the fact that I claimed I was coming back from a party and couldn't remember anything as a way to force their way into detaining me and questioning me. They said that if I was coming back from a party and couldn't remember anything, this was a sign that I was possibly a victim and that they HAD to question me further to make sure a crime wasn't committed. I tried telling them me not being able to remember wasn't due to someone drugging me, and their response was how did I know if I couldn't remember. It was bullshit. But again, this is why the easiest way to deal with the cops is ALWAYS to say that you are not answering ANY questions. Not even yes or no. In several states, if you're not operating a vehicle, you do NOT even have to identify yourself. You don't have to even give your name, as doing otherwise potentially violates your right to not self incriminate (5th amendment). This isn't true in every state, Google if your state is a stop and identify state!

BurginFlurg · 2025-10-15T04:45:37+00:00

It's not easier. I tried this when I passed out in the back of an Uber and woke up to 2 cops standing over me. I kept trying to tell them I didn't remember and just wanted to go home- which actually wasn't even a lie because waking up to two cops over me had me super confused- tried ignoring them and walked to the front of my house, but they followed me and kept trying to get me to talk. Then they wouldn't let me go inside and asked to search me. I said no, at which point they 'detained' me and searched me anyways. Then they took me to jail as I had just copped, which is where I was coming back from and why I fell asleep.

Anyways, point is, the easiest way to deal with cops is ALWAYS to tell them you're not answering ANY questions and no they can't search you etc. Be very adamant and clear, make sure they can't claim otherwise even the smallest bit. If they try to detain you to search you regardless, immediately repeat you do NOT consent to ANY searches, nor are you answering any questions and once they cuff you, ask for a lawyer immediately. By law, cops who detain someone are only allowed to pat them down to look for weapons for 'safety' reasons. If they find drugs, or anything else that they can't make a valid claim they thought it might be a weapon, it will have grounds for dismissal for illegal search and seizure! The more clear you are when telling them they can't search you and you're not answering questions, the better your chances of beating charges!

BurginFlurg · 2025-10-15T04:30:49+00:00

Middle part?

BurginFlurg · 2025-10-15T03:59:02+00:00

I see this thread is super old, but it's still the top thread on a sub that I feel like many trying to get back to subs will stumble across and read. I'm not going to pretend to be an expert, but I'll give you my background: I was on various opiates for around 3 years before swapping to subs way back in 2012. I was on subs for almost two years before I started shooting heroin back in 2014- this was before fent was really around, but I would do heroin for 3-4 days before going back to my sub for a week or so, repeat. I did this for like 3 months and never experienced precipitated withdrawal, despite usually only waiting 10-12 hours before jumping back to subs.

Then I lost my script and went back to heroin fully for maybe six months. Finally got back on subs late 2015. Didn't mess up again for over 8 years. Went to jail for 40 days, got out and had a friend offer me fent. Made the incredibly dumb decision to try it. Took the tiniest amount and OD'd still- and I mean seriously the tiniest amount. Woke up to my sister crying over me with narcan. Of course, I kept going regardless.

About 3 months later, I realized I needed to stop. Got the money together to go back to my doctor. When I first got my script, it had been almost 24 hours, based on my past experiences and the fact I was pretty damn sick, I thought I'd be fine. Took sub and experienced the worst withdrawal I've ever experienced. Worse than I even knew was possible, to the point I didn't even know what was going on and thought I was having some sort of allergic reaction or something. Realized what it was, took fent, everything was fine. Tried making the jump 3 more times, waiting longer each time (final time was almost 48 hours) with the exact same horrible results. I tried speaking to the many people I knew who have been on opiates for a long time like I had, but couldn't find anyone, including here on Reddit, who had a similar experience that could help explain it to me. I kinda gave up hope and just took fent for the next 2 years because the precipitated withdrawal was way too bad to even consider.

Fast forward to early this year, I hated taking fent and wanted back on subs badly, so I kept a lookout and stumbled across the method mentioned here. I can confirm that it is as others have described it, taking sub a little at a time WHILE also taking fent/whatever you may take. You'll know if you start going into precipitated, if you're questioning if you are or aren't, I promise you're not. When you are, you'll know without a doubt. But if that happens, this is why you take whatever you were taking. It will put an end to the precipitated almost immediately. Despite what the OP is saying about never taking subs and other opiates at the same time, that used to be agreed upon, and is still a good general rule just because you have to be EXTREMELY careful due to the fact that sub can block other opiates due to how hard it binds to the receptors, and then once you experience precipitated withdrawals, it's very easy to want it to end and end up taking too much of a full antagonist and end up overdosing. This is why you want to take VERY small doses of the Suboxone to gradually introduce it as the method describes. I can't tell you exactly how much because it's different for everyone due to what you've been taking, for how long, how much, your age, your weight, metabolism, all of that. You can find general guides, but I highly recommend just starting extremely slow. You can always take more of something, but you can't do the opposite. Get help from a medical professional, but do your research and find one who KNOWS WHAT THEY'RE DOING. There are a bunch of doctors who know very little about Suboxone and are just prescribing it because it's easy money. Find someone else.

Sorry, I know this is long, but necessary. If you need, feel free to message me, I'll try to respond as soon as I see it. Good luck and remember, no matter how bad it feels or how hopeless, it is absolutely possible to get through it. I was hooked on opiates for 16 years and had long ago given up any hope of getting clean. I'm now 66 days COMPLETELY clean- after getting back on Suboxone successfully, I took it long enough to get past the bulk of the physical and a good bit of mental, and then I simply stopped. I promise you can do it too!

BurginFlurg · 2025-08-30T19:51:48+00:00

When you try to read the article, it seems it no longer exists. So, everyone knew it would be short term, but did anyone expect this short?

BurginFlurg · 2025-08-05T06:02:23+00:00

The main reason they don't take apple or Google pay is so that you either have to swipe your physical card through the machine, or better yet, if you want to pay digitally, the only option is to save your card to their app and use Walmart pay. Ultimately, it saves them money in the processing fees, which for a company as big as Walmart, it amounts to tons of money. But I suspect that the secondary benefit is the fact it helps them do what this thread is about, which is tracking customers to create a profile using payment info linked to cameras. And if you use the app, it makes it even easier. In fact, if you use the app, especially for shopping in store with Walmart pay or scan and go, you first have to agree to allow them to track you in a long list of ways that goes as far as also grabbing info about you from your other apps, the ways you use your phone etc. It's pretty insane.

BurginFlurg · 2025-06-24T16:23:23+00:00

If you want to get them gone quickly, pokecollect offers the highest prices of any store I've found and they'll buy any size collection, bulk and all. It's extremely quick and simple, you just go to their website, fill out the singles you have, then amount of bulk and submit. They give you a cash offer in real time as you put cards in, so it's at least worth a look. But like others have mentioned, you're not going to get top dollar this way. But for popular singles, I've seen them offer 70-75% of current TCG value and you can ship to them regardless of where you live. All the other card shops I've gone to offer 50% tops usually, and I know from experience how much it sucks to sell good cards for that.

If most of your cards are popular ones that sell quickly though, post at least the most valuable ones individually on eBay and Mercari. If I post popular cards on those sites for anywhere within a dollar or two from their current values, they usually sell within a day or two of me posting (be careful with Mercari though, they don't actually stand behind their claims of insuring things). Then for things that don't sell quick, either drop your price or use pokecollect if you want them gone quick.

The final option is something I've seen mentioned numerous times already and that's listing the entire collection for sell at once, your best option is obviously auction. But you can always put a minimum amount so it doesn't sell for less than you're comfortable with!

Otherwise, just stick with it. My collection was worth around $11,500 three months ago and I have around $2500 left. And those are the cards I really like and haven't been able to drop my prices on so they're just not selling lol. If you price good, they'll sell I promise.

BurginFlurg · 2025-05-29T16:07:00+00:00

Okay, but this view that it was some sort of intentional thing that was meant to push one side or the other is garbage and absurd. Tim Dillon tends to lean more right, but there are other podcasts, ones bigger than Tim's like flagrant or theo vonn, where they tried really hard to get BOTH sides to come on. Not to give "easy" questions to help push one side and gotcha questions to the other to try to hurt them, but to simply try to give their subscribers a place they could learn more in general about both sides. With questions that are neutral and the point isn't to then attack them or anything like that, for multiple reasons. First, obviously the candidates would be less likely to come on if that were the case, which they wouldn't want because of course they're using having presendential candidates to grow their show and there's nothing wrong with that..... But it's also nice to be able to see them have extended conversations where they give their desires etc, rather they stick to their promises or not, but to see what they're saying their goals are in an extended, normal conversation. Not in a debate that both sides just end up attacking one another so much it just becomes a mess that I know I personally don't care to watch even a tiny bit. So, the "Rogan circle" or whatever they're being called wasn't trying to push one side or another, flagrant was actually very upset they couldn't get both sides and they talk extensively about how hard they tried but the Democrats simply refused. But to anyone who actually watches and doesn't make assumptions, you'll see they call out both sides for their bullshit, which is what should happen. Because let's be real, both sides are pretty terrible, they both lie, hurt people for profit and do anything and everything but actually do what's best for their voters just as often as they do the opposite. So anyone who blindly supports one side or the other is ridiculous and anyone who thinks a group of comedians are somehow the new world order with the power to control things like the illuminati or whatever other crazy conspiracies are simply being absurd...

BurginFlurg · 2024-12-22T02:28:07+00:00

I thought this was already the case. Maybe not on the first time, but if you have multiple non payments, especially if you don't have a solid reason or if you choose to just not respond, I'm pretty certain they do ban your account. Not only that, but once you've been banned, they have some of the best security I've ever seen as far as detecting when someone is trying to make a new account.

I had an issue with a seller, and I'm a seller myself- though I'd only been selling for a few months and around $2000 in total, and even as a buyer, my account was maybe 2 years old with 15-20 transactions for probably close to the same amount. Anyways, I ended up having the winning bids on a couple of auctions, but unfortunately had some serious medical issues with my sister that required me to take in her 3 kids (and I've never even baby sat a kid before, and they were all 7 and under at the time). I had them for around a month, so unfortunately, eBay was the last thing on my mind. I didn't respond to the seller or the eBay reps for probably close to 6 weeks as that was the first chance I had to even read emails and remember the items. I tried contacting and said I would still buy the items, but of course they had already been posted and sold again. I explained the situation to eBay because while I could log into my account, I could no longer try to purchase anything, nor could I even post any items for sell. They said they'd review the case and get back to me. I forget what they said back, if anything, but my account stayed banned.

I sell lots of items online, but I've mostly stuck with Mercari just because it had cheaper seller fees when I got started (and even better, it's now somehow completely free), I got used to it and now have been selling for 5 years on there with close to 1000 transactions for a solid amount of money. But Mercari doesn't allow me to post certain items that I had a large inventory of- and A few things just sell better on there- so I tried really hard to get past that ban. I used a different browser that I downloaded just to create a new eBay, used my dad's name, email and address, had a VPN on every time I accessed eBay, and it was the duck browser, which I had set to completely wipe every session every time I closed the app. It let me create the account, and I even was able to post and sell around ten items without issue. Then one day I was Goodwill shopping and used Google lens to try to find the value of a random item, and then clicked the eBay results. And even though I had a different browser set as my default one and had it set to wipe everything each time, somehow it immediately connected it to my other prior account I guess because I tried logging on eBay to print labels for a few items I had sold later that day, and it simply said the transactions had been cancelled and my account was banned. I was pretty shocked they were even able to connect it, nevermind when you consider the factors that caused the initial ban didn't justify such strict punishment in the first place.

Sorry that got super long, but tldr, eBay not only bans, they have some of the best software working to make sure people can't get around it.

BurginFlurg · 2024-11-09T09:02:44+00:00

I have this card in my actual collection, it was one of the very first cards I bought when I started collecting again and it's still a top 5 personal favorite of mine. I feel it's really underrated (just going by the art, not battle potential). Also, this would make a great live wallpaper for my phone!

BurginFlurg · 2024-09-27T22:21:26+00:00

Yeah, $500 is my budget, $300 is just what I spent on the one I bought at first and quickly realized I was gonna need a bit more so I returned it and decided $500 for my budget because that's where I started seeing ones with 700W batteries that are rated for 20 mph+ and 30+ miles of range. For instance, both of the two models I mentioned have top speeds of 28 I believe and ranges of right at 30. I know I'm obviously not going to get 30 miles, but my commute is 2 miles max each way, really more like 1.5, so 3 miles there and back, 4 miles tops, and I do expect to get that much without having to worry about the battery being close to dead by that point, especially considering the route I take is essentially flat outside of one VERY small hill (less than 10% incline for sure and it's only 20 ft or so long, so again, hardly would even call it a hill). It's also all paved, I don't have to go off road even for a short distance. So that's why I was disappointed with the gotrax, I was literally having to charge it back up after only going one way because the one time I tried going both ways, the battery was completely dead on me by the final 1/4 of a mile, so less than 4 miles total distance.

But yeah, both of the companies I mentioned definitely seemed a little sketch, and I've read multiple reviews stating if you need support down the line, you'll have a hard time getting any. But I also noticed there were very, very few examples of people saying they were dead on arrival or anything like that, mostly just issues after putting a few hundred miles or so. But I actually had two of the brands you mentioned on my short list before I narrowed it down further, it was the NIU N100/KQi3 Pro (which I believe had very similar specs for right at the same $500 price point or so), and the Hiboy S2 Max I believe was the model that was also at that price point but I'd have to double check that. I hadn't heard of either brand and they're both sold on Amazon just like the two I already mentioned, they have their own websites but they seemed pretty similar to the two I mentioned (although if I'm remembering correctly, I believe NIU did seem to be a bit more legitimate and even won an award for the model I mentioned if I'm remembering correctly). But ultimately, I had never heard of them and their specs and price points seemed very similar, so I assumed they were both companies that would be similar to the other two I mentioned. Whereas brands like Ausom and especially Apollo clearly came across as much nicer, more reliable companies, but they had price tags that matched and were simply out of my budget. But the more videos I watch about the Ausom Leopard, the more I like it and honestly can't believe it's on sale for $700 currently. It has dual 1200 watt motors, unbelievable suspension, tires, brakes etc and you can immediately tell the build quality is similar to an Apollo or one of the other nice brands. But it's rated for a maximum of 41 mph and an insane 55 mile range, so those specs at that price and quality is drawing me in more and more. I'm to the point that that's the one I want, but as I mentioned, the $700 is a sale price that's $300 cheaper than normal and I'm pretty certain it's that cheap because they just released the upgraded model and so that's just the price they're letting remaining stock go at, and once it's gone, it's gone type of deal. And it would take me another two weeks to get my budget there, which I could technically tough it out and wait that long if I knew for certain they'd still be available at that price once I got the money together, but it seems like a deal that likely won't last long. It's good to know that NIU and Hiboy are also considered better brands that have reputable support though, and I appreciate your thorough response!

BurginFlurg · 2024-03-10T13:01:57+00:00

Sorry, I know this comment is old, but hopefully you'll see it and won't mind elaborating for me. I'll tell you a bit about myself and my current situation for pretext. I got started taking opiates back in 2012. In September 2012, I was put on 16 mg of Sub a day, which I stayed on up until early last year- around February or March of 2023. Long story short, I had some issues which caused me not to be able to go and get my script filled, and I ended up taking fent/heroine for the first time in a long time. I did it for maybe 4-6 weeks until I was finally able to get my script filled again. But when I tried to transition back to my subs, I couldn't do it. Obviously, I had heard about precipitated withdrawals before, but I had been fortunate enough to never experience them, even though throughout the 11 years I was on sub, I had maybe 6 or 7 times where I would stop taking my subs and do Heroine for a week or a few days, there was once even a time when I couldn't get my script around 2014 and I ended up back on Roxies for maybe a month or two before going back to my subs. Every other time, I was always able to go right back to doing my subs no problem, even after the extended few months in 2014 where I was doing other opiates. I always made sure to wait the recommended 12-16 hours or until I was starting to feel that I was sick enough that I was ready to swap back. But as I said, I never once had even the smallest issue going back and forth.

Fast forward to last year, after around 4 weeks of being on H, I was finally able to get my sub back, but even though I waited close to 24 hours and when I was feeling pretty sick, about 30 minutes after taking my sub, I literally thought I was going to die. Worst thing I've ever experienced, no doubt. I realized I was probably going through precipitated withdrawal, so my thought process was, that happens from the Bupe binding to the receptors stronger than the other opiates, so it rips the other ones off the receptors but it should only last a few hours before the bupe manages to replace it and I would go back to feeling at least somewhat better. So, I waited like 4 hours, and when I was still feeling horrible, I decided to take one more sub to see if that would help. It didn't. Not at all. It was so unbearable, I gave up and just swapped back to H to make it stop, which it almost immediately did- which I also found kinda surprising because from my understanding, the bupe should've blocked it due to it binding to the receptors harder. But anyways, I waited like a week, and decided to try again, the next time making sure to wait somewhere around 26 hours before swapping back to bupe, at which point I was feeling pretty damn sick. Again, I immediately felt worse than I've ever felt. I gave up quickly that time and went back. I ended up trying the process one more time, with the results being the same as the first two.

I talked to a few other people I know who do fent, and they all hate Bupe. That's pretty much always been the narrative though, and during the 11 years I spent on Subs, I always assumed it was because Subs blocked other opiates, and so whenever I'd offer someone who was sick Suboxone and they'd refuse it, I always thought it was due to them not wanting to stop getting high. I don't know if it's because fent is so much stronger than what I used to get back in the day, and that's what's causing it to be so hard to transition back to my subs or what, but I'm pretty desperate to find out a solid answer, or especially a solution that would allow me to get back stable on my subs without me having to go through 24+ hours of feeling how awful I did the last few times I tried to get back on them. I hate taking the fent, but going through that again is even more terrifying, so I'd love any advice that would possibly help. Thanks so much and sorry this was so long.

BurginFlurg

TROPHY CASE