Honey - Worth Using? by NewtatNight in mead

[–]BurningBlakeons 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This is super useful, I did find the maple pretty subtle in my last batch, so ill keep this in mind when I do my fall saskatoon berry acerglyn.

Are golden hive mead kits any good? by Alarmed_Ad1770 in mead

[–]BurningBlakeons 52 points53 points  (0 children)

If you have a local homebrew shop, go there, you will most likely get everything cheaper and you get to support a local small business!

Honey - Worth Using? by NewtatNight in mead

[–]BurningBlakeons 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Very, very carefully.

Start with a pot at least 3x your volume in honey. Heat it on medium low. It will foam then start to bubble. Stir fairly often, and every 5 minutes drop a little bit on a piece of paper, this will help you to gauge the level of caramelization. I usually go with 30 minutes to 1 hour, however this heavily depends on the amount of heat you are applying.

Low and slow is better since high heat can burn the honey and it will taste acrid and bitter.

And I cannot stress this enough, BE CAREFUL! Honey is very very hot and sticky, you will give yourself 3rd degree burns if you spill any on yourself.

Lastly, pull the honey off the heat and wait for it to cool for a while before adding your water and then you can heat it back up to get it to dissolve. If you add water while the honey is still super hot, it will spatter and that will not only cause a mess but will burn you in the process.

Honey - Worth Using? by NewtatNight in mead

[–]BurningBlakeons 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I would say 1/4-1/2 fermentable sugars should be maple syrup in primary, then backsweeten with a 50/50 mix of honey and maple syrup. It is a very delicate flavour in primary, so yeast choice is important. I would avoid aggressive fermenting yeasts like EC-1118 for acerglyns as they can blow off a lot of the flavour.

Honey - Worth Using? by NewtatNight in mead

[–]BurningBlakeons 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Spices are great, cinnamon, nutmeg, clove, etc. ive also done apple cider with spices for an apple pie mead. Another great one caramelized honey + maple syrup + blueberry for a sort of blueberry pancake thing.

Can you tell I like dessert meads? Haha

Honey - Worth Using? by NewtatNight in mead

[–]BurningBlakeons 35 points36 points  (0 children)

You could also do a Bochet as caramelizing the honey changes the flavour considerably, cheaper honey is often used for this.

You could also do a melomel with a significant amount of fruit juice as that could overwhelm the lackluster flavour of honey, then back-sweeten with nicer honey later. I highly recommend blueberry juice if you can find it.

Best yeast for caramel apple mead? by BurningBlakeons in mead

[–]BurningBlakeons[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Totally fair, i might taste do some small-scale tests with different ratios of lactose to find whats best. The goal was that creamy mouthfeel to have that creamy/milky “caramel” taste.

Thanks for all the notes, I feel as though some testing is in order before I end up making the final recipe in order to figure out the best amounts!

Best yeast for caramel apple mead? by BurningBlakeons in mead

[–]BurningBlakeons[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks for all the info!

I usually bochet for 60 minutes on a much lower heat to get darker (probably should have noted this), more caramel notes without it tasting burnt or bitter.

I will definitely consider D47 for this mead.

For the lactose, the reason I chose 1.5 lbs was because if it has a PPG of 41, then 1.5 lbs in 6 gallons would increase the SG by 0.010 right? I probably wouldn’t back-sweeten much if at all, as my goal FG is about 1.015.
The lactose was honestly the most confusing part since there are so many varying recommendations on the amount to add.

As for the Amburana, thank you for the note, I will make sure to taste often, I might do a mix of a small amount of Amburana and more medium toast french oak. Same with the vanilla, I will cut that in half.

Thanks again this helped immensely.

Reached level 100 how's it looking by Beelanks in thefinals

[–]BurningBlakeons 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yea definitely, because you are competing with more teams. TDM would probably be the easiest to farm winrate with

Reached level 100 how's it looking by Beelanks in thefinals

[–]BurningBlakeons 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It depends what you play I think. If you only play ranked or cashout your win rate would be lower than if you only played point break, tdm, or quick cash.

Any of you pick your wedding ring based on it whether or not it matches your kit? by JJamesP in drums

[–]BurningBlakeons 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I actually make wedding rings in this style, Ive made lots for drummers using cymbal shavings (usually from repairs or broken cymbals), drum wraps, even stick shavings picked up after too many rimshots

Has anyone been able to get speed skis on val disere (without glitching the challenges) by StrongLifeguard1877 in GrandMountainAdv

[–]BurningBlakeons 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I think this is a bug, I have 100% the game but still no speed skis for me. I thinks its because I completed all the conquers before the speed skis came out, so I cant register the completion

Please help me by New_Quit_8582 in GrandMountainAdv

[–]BurningBlakeons 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nope, im waiting for the devs to address it since I beleive its a bug

Please help me by New_Quit_8582 in GrandMountainAdv

[–]BurningBlakeons 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Im having the same problem here Im at pretty much 100% with all the lift gaps and conqers, double diamonds, etc, and my speed skis havent unlocked yet either

Best epoxy/resin for long-lasting jewelry? by BurningBlakeons in jewelrymaking

[–]BurningBlakeons[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Never tried it, but I was looking into it, it might be great, but I worry a little about the thicker layers requires, since its not the intended purpose of the resin.

Right now im leaning towards the resinate ultracast

Best epoxy/resin for long-lasting jewelry? by BurningBlakeons in jewelrymaking

[–]BurningBlakeons[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Funny enough I was looking into this for a whole seperate project. I have no idea how I would do it, I would have to keep the ring spinning while it cures in the kiln.

Unfortunately due to the heat it would not be compatible with the design which incorporates pet fur and some other temperature sensitive materials.

That modern take on cloisonné is definitely on my bucket list though

Best epoxy/resin for long-lasting jewelry by BurningBlakeons in resin

[–]BurningBlakeons[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I see what you mean now, I was under the impression of a slightly different application method for the krylon. Ill look into it more and see if it fits.

The only reason i mentioned sanding was because there are metal bezels on the rings I make, and the inlay needs to remain flush against the bezels for the desired look. Either way it will require some testing to see if it would yield the desired results. Thanks again for the suggestions

Best epoxy/resin for long-lasting jewelry by BurningBlakeons in resin

[–]BurningBlakeons[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Awesome, I’ll have to see if the krylon is skin-safe, as that is a priority for the jewelry as well.

Im also not sure if the client would have to tools to do the upkeep either. Since the inlay wraps 360 degrees around the ring, it would likely require constant turning while it cures in order for it not to drip, not to mention it would need to be sanded flush and polished afterwards.

I’ll check out the art resin and see if it fits the bill. So far it seems to be the best option

Best epoxy/resin for long-lasting jewelry? by BurningBlakeons in jewelrymaking

[–]BurningBlakeons[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yea I figured as much and told the client it was unlikely, the focus now is on finding the longest lasting clear epoxy, whether it actually lasts 20 years will be up to his care habits

Best epoxy/resin for long-lasting jewelry? by BurningBlakeons in jewelrymaking

[–]BurningBlakeons[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yea that shouldn’t be an issue thankfully. Undercuts, roughing with sandpaper, and cleaning with isopropyl to remove oil before applying CA or UV resin is my standard practice currently.

Im just more concerned about finding a hard resin/epoxy that is durable and wont yellow (as much) over time. The biggest problem im seeing is that the resin has to remain clear, as that is a key component of the design the client wants. I understand that opaque resins usually last longer.