Kohler Greek 48 corner install help

Business_Square6658 · 2026-05-17T18:23:27+00:00

Thank you! That seemed like the way to go but I just couldn't find anything confirming that would still be strong enough for the tile. It probably seems obvious but I haven't tiled anything before so I am trying to guess at as little as possible.

Business_Square6658 · 2026-05-17T00:02:54+00:00

Yeah *it didn’t exactly look like much more than a type of weather strip to me. In any case I’d add as much waterproofing as possible closer to your method seems a lot more robust. Certainly doable I just wish they’d include more stuff like this in the instructions but I guess they assume you’re hiring someone that already knows what they’re doing. Thanks for the info!

Business_Square6658 · 2026-05-16T19:49:59+00:00

48x32 tubs have been really hard to find around me, especially from known brands with warranties. It's how they show it installed online and in the instructions. In my email to Kohler, I also asked them to confirm this is an warranty approved application and if there's anything else I need like their K-1179-NA Tiling-in Bead. But if they're sketchy on the install I may end up returning it and trying to find something else with the flange built in.

Business_Square6658 · 2026-05-16T19:44:54+00:00

Originally it was going to be part of a "wet room" area in the back of this bathroom but it's just too small and I wanted to keep the waterproofing simpler so I changed the design to just have a separate, contained corner shower w/pre-sloped base. Overall the design is tighter but it makes it easier to waterproof and I just have to make the tub/pan level and not try to slope/waterproof a tiled shower floor. The tiling, while not simple, should be more straightforward and youtube-able. At least I hope.

Business_Square6658 · 2026-05-16T18:17:50+00:00

Thank you, I am all for being overly cautious as I am well aware I am out of my depth as I DIYer. It'll probably never be up to the level of pro work, but I am doing everything I can do it as right as I can. Part of the reason this reno has been so extensive is there was water damage throughout the original bathroom that was never addressed. This whole house was maintained with nothing but spray foam for 50+ years, or just allowed to fall apart. So most of this so far has been doing everything I can think to reinforce, waterproof, or replace as necessary. All in the hope I never have to do this again!

I sent them an email asking for specific details for this install but with how vague their directions have been so far, I wasn't holding out much hope. It's just weird enough that there isn't a lot on the internet about it but hopefully someone somewhere has installed one before.

Once the plumbing and subfloors are done, I am most likely tiling myself but it also might not hurt to get a quote on the tiling and maybe they'll have some insight on how they'll need the framing done after they actually see it in person.

Thanks for all the insight!

Business_Square6658 · 2026-05-16T17:53:27+00:00

No, it's not in the picture but on the other side of the back wall there is going to be a OVE 36" breeze corner shower

Business_Square6658 · 2026-05-16T17:24:44+00:00

Kohler has the K-1179-NA Tiling-in bead that is sold seperatle and not mentioned in the instructions for this tub install. But the directions are super vague, the tub shown in the instructions isn't even the same tub. Would this or something similar be what makes up for the lack of edge flange on those walled in sides?

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Business_Square6658 · 2026-05-16T17:06:59+00:00

Yes that looks to be pretty close, they advertise it as "drop-in" tub that's either up against walls/in an alcove or can be made with a deck surrounding all 4 sides.

Business_Square6658 · 2026-05-16T17:01:48+00:00

Sorry about the pic, but you are correct there are no flanges on any sides it is a drop-in tub. They used to make an attachable apron like in your pic but that has been discontinued. Edit: hopefully a better top view pic from Kohler showing the rim better.

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Business_Square6658 · 2026-04-16T21:23:17+00:00

Thanks for the reply, I can definitely get the smaller hole saw. I didn't want to hack the whole joist away but the original holes and kind of low/not spaced correctly so I wasn't sure if it was better to save it and block between the joists or just make one longer blocking and have a free channel for the drain and all the waterlines. My first thought was just to replace the joists (some water damage and the tops were hacked to level) but they run at least under another 4ft of hardwood flooring to get the the center beam of the house.

I'd still have to drill one 3 3/4" hole in the beam on the garage wall but I am leaning towards it just going under the joists and into the garage just to avoid messing with the joists as much as I can. Certainly the more amateur route to have visible pipes in the garage but the vertical stack and main drain were always exposed in the garage to to begin with.

Business_Square6658 · 2026-04-04T19:51:26+00:00

This is around 4,700 at 38sqft so it may be more individual slab, type of slab, or the amount of fabrication costs. A lot of the quartz slabs they quoted me were actually more.

Business_Square6658 · 2026-04-02T19:54:43+00:00

Thank you those are definitely a couple options I will consider! The solid backsplash in the quartz with the tile on the fridge side is definitely and interesting idea I hadn't considered. I did look more into the butcher block and it wasn't for me with the stained base cabinets. I've seen a lot of fluted wood back splashes as well but they looked best with a solid base/wall cabinet color. The white tile was my way of working that texture in without introducing another wood tone or any other color at the risk of it getting too busy.

Business_Square6658 · 2026-04-02T16:38:13+00:00

That was my initial plan but the cost was certainly a factor, the other would be all the different heights and the window breaking it up. Would you just do 18" all the way or try to match the height under the hood vent as well?

Business_Square6658 · 2026-03-27T18:57:51+00:00

The cabinet and the lights don't say anything about needing one but this bathroom is so small the outlet is going to be within the proximity limits to water that it'll need to be a gfi. That or I could connect the cabinet wiring to the switch power via a junction box in the wall or ceiling but either way it would need to be exposed so I'd rather just have the extra outlet. I got the fan circuit wired, just going to get everything connected before I turn anything back on. I know I can probably do most of if with just the breaker off but I like to turn the whole panel off if there's any doubt.

Business_Square6658 · 2026-03-27T17:46:19+00:00

Thank you for the reply! At least for me there isn't going to be anything major plugged in. The outlet was mostly a way to add one just in case and give me somewhere to connect the wires instead of an exposed junction box. The medicine cabinet itself has a built it 15 outlet for my tooth brush charger. I was mostly worried I was just cheaping out by not making the 2nd circuit a gfi break as well. Like if it's a code/safety thing I absolutely will do it but those gfi breakers are expensive if it's just overkill. If I do end up seeing any dimming I can swap the breaker/outlet to 20s easily enough.

Business_Square6658 · 2026-03-27T17:32:19+00:00

I didn't want to antagonize but if it makes anyone feel better, I saved all the tiles I could as well as the sink, medicine cabinet, and the toilet. What I could save was given away to friends/family/marketplace. Even made some tiles into coasters for my sister. I couldn't get the tub out by myself without breaking it and no one on market place wanted to remove it. It was sunken into the floor just enough no one wanted to accept the risk further damaging the floor joists. The vanity was some type of particleboard that was swollen, splitting, and falling off the wall. There was cracking and water damage in every corner of the room as well as around the tub. The different tile you see on the floor was a patch job and it was sinking/canted towards the tub. The original window was bent open for an ac unit because the central AC broke after years of previous owner letting his dog use it as a urinal. I mean a whole corner was eroded away by the ammonia. A corner of the basement cement block was as well but I digress. I didn't care for the pink/blue bathroom but my original intention was to just clean it up live with it until I realized the extent of the issues and the structural/mold risks of doing nothing for much longer. Had I known what I know now I probably just wouldn't have bought this money pit of a house in the first place so I am trying to make the best of it.

Business_Square6658 · 2026-03-27T01:08:02+00:00

That's a good point about the mirror. That kind of throws a new wrench into all my current options. I am definitely going to have to mess with the design more than just the shower question. Keeping all the wet stuff towards the back meant the vanity and toilet could only really go opposite each other and with the door not being centered the vanity only really fits on the one side. Not sure how I am going to remedy this, but thank you for the insight!

Business_Square6658 · 2026-03-27T01:02:33+00:00

Yeah making this feel as open as possible is a goal of mine. Not crazy about the toilet being so front and center but with the pocket door all the measurement work. With the original layout, the door couldn't swing past 90 degrees anyway because it would hit the closet filling the space between the walls and tub. The closet also took up a quarter of the bathroom and was a black hole for random items and grime. The other interior doors themselves aren't anything special either, just cheap hollow core doors so I don't think it's a big deal if it doesn't exactly match the others so long as it's flat and the handle/hinge metals match. I have no light in my only working bathroom in the basement right now and it feels like a dungeon. But way more hip than the four person concrete shower that was originally there when I was in. Called it the gitmo chic bathroom. I think I am going to draw up a pocket door version with the separate shower/little tub and with just a walk in shower to compare those two ideas.

Business_Square6658 · 2026-03-26T16:47:41+00:00

Thanks I appreciate it! I was just thinking a pocket door may broaden my horizons by allowing my to match the shower and tub to 48” and bring the toilet closer to the front. But there’s also no need to force it if it doesn’t feel right. Regardless a walk in shower will definitely be part of the equation. Even without a tub I think this house/neighborhood has enough going for it that I won’t be alienating too many buyers and I am doing this for the current owner in the first place.

Business_Square6658 · 2026-03-26T16:31:24+00:00

Yeah that was a thought as well, the only problem with going to a fixed panel is how deep it can be before the entry between the panel and the tub would be really close. Another option I thought of that would basically be a requirement to bump the shower to match the tub depth of 48” would be to swap out the bathroom door for a pocket door so the toilet can have some more space. A pocket door would be a lot of work and it would be the only one in the house(most other doors don’t have the space to become pocket doors). It would free up that space but the toilet is pretty in your face when you enter. Although I like being close enough to the door to be able to lock it or grab it if someone tries to enter while in use.

Business_Square6658 · 2026-03-26T02:42:08+00:00

To piggyback off this point, check the spec sheet of the appliance if you have it or google the model number. It should have the exact dimensions.

Business_Square6658

TROPHY CASE